Messages

I had  the same problem recently, after revving the engine to redline a couple of times & a big puff of black smoke it was fine again 

In the process of fixing my FRP bumper & fitting a set of front wings to my FD, The panel gaps were all messed up so I\'ve been adjusting them aswell, got most of it sorted but i can\'t find what the gap around the headlight cover should be.

Any pictures of headlight covers showing gap around wing, hood & bumper would be a great help TIA

I know there is a drain pipe at the bottom of the stock antenna to drain off water but still prob a good idea to try & block it off somehow.

I have heard of people removing the rear window washer jet & putting a universal antenna there but have not actually seen this, would be a route i would be interested in as i can\'t get any radio signal from my stock antenna

Final bump just 2 hours left

If you arrange everything no problem, I don\'t have a box so best I could do is wrap it in bubble wrap?

Midweek Bumpaage!!!

1.5HP 25 Litre Air compressor, excellent condition £50 starting bid

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261425060338?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

3 Door Hatchback, Black, 1.4 Petrol, Manual, 1 Owner from new, Comes with full dealer service history, Just serviced on 7/10/13 along with full safety check, Free service, AA roadside assistance & under manufacturers warranty until Jan 2015, First MOT due Jan 2015, Tax until 31/12/13.

ABS, PAS, Rear wiper, Passenger airbag deactivation, Side airbags, remote central locking. Remote boot open, CD/radio/MP3/USB Connection, alarm + immobilizer, cruise control, 16" alloy wheels with locking wheel nuts, Front fog lights, adjustable headlights with follow me home, LED tail lights, air conditioning, One touch electric windows and mirrors, cloth interior, Leather Gearstick, handbrake & steering wheel with audio controls, Multi Function trip computer, Blue & me handsfree Bluetooth with voice recognition, Start Stop Technology,

Very clean inside, There is a scratch on the drivers door, a paint burn mark on rear bumper from polishing & the front left wheel has some kerb damage on the rim, also some minor scratches here & there from daily use, Please see photos, These are minor cosmetic issues which are easily repairable by a good body shop, I just don\'t have the time to get these sorted hence the asking price, the car is 100% mechanically & drives very smooth, any inspection welcome. 07443505915 / 07774322127

£7,495
 

I had a simmilar problem to this, did a bit of looking around last night & found that the white plastic bit on the leading spark plug on my front rotor had cracked, switched it for another one i had in the garage & went for a spin there & it seems to have resolved the issue although i now seem to have a boost leak on the secondary turbo

Just posted this over on FDUK:

I\'d really appreciate any insight on this - pinged an email over to Carl this evening as well.

Hi guys,

I\'m at a bit of a loss with this one, and could really use some input from some experienced minds.

For those of you who I haven\'t had the pleasure of talking to or meeting, I am a 22 year old student who pours all of his money into his FD at any given point in time lol. However I have very little of said money to afford spending any amount on something that might not fix the issue, hence this thread rather than a more trial and error approach - I need to get to the bottom of this quickly and effectively.

My car is still on twins, mods include front mount intercooler, apexi rad, apexi twin filters, hayward street port with around 8k on it since the rebuild last Dec, power FC, HKS d/p, resonated midpipe, titanium backbox, optima blue top battery.

The car was rebuilt when I bought it. After the rebuild I ran the car in and when I went back for the full map there was a problem with a misfire. I was advised to grab a twinpower, which I did, and it didn\'t really fix the problem. The blatent misfire was mostly gone, which was really like being pulled back by a truck at WOT, particularly around 4/5k rpm. But I still had significant break up, little to no power past 4k rpm unless I pushed through to around 6.5/7k at which point the power picks up again. Then the regulator on my alternator went and I had 15.9V reading on the Commander, and when I put my foot down the car felt like it was on steroids. No break up whatsoever and it was far quicker than I have experienced at any other point before or since. Needless to say I took the car straight home til I could get another alternator. After changing the alternator it was back to the normal crappy state. I went back to Hayward and the guys had a look, checked the fuel pump wiring which seemed to be ok and I think had a little fiddle with the ignition wiring and went out to map the car, and came back saying it was fine. I think Magnecor KV85s were also fitted. Plugs and oil were changed, and for a little while the car was ok with no break up, albeit not as powerful as when the alternator went. Short while after, couple weeks, it was back to breaking up. It\'s been the same since. I don\'t know what the state is with the wiring to fuel pump and ignition (first FD and not much experience of meddling with cars, although I have tried to do everything that I can myself on my FD in the interest of learning!), although Carl did say the ignition had been \'beefed up\' - I dont know exactly what was done.

I know there are relay rewires that can be done to the ignition and fuel pump, but what I would like from you guys is a bit of input as to what you think might be causing this and what I should be doing next? If a rewire then recommendations on wires and other parts would be great. Hopefully Carl can pop along and provide some more info on the situation. Ideally I would have liked to take another trip up to Haywards or even chat to Carl about the latest developments, as I havent touched base with him since the problem has returned - unfortunately time is at a premium for me at the moment and I figured the forum is the best place to get all the info together in an efficient way.

Cheers!

Bally

Did you ever get this sorted?

Each injector has 2 wires a ground & power. I thought the ecu triggered them but i may be wrong.

If you find the diagnostic port near the passenger side shock tower & battery & short the F/P & GND connections with the ignition on this will activate the fuel pump & put pressure in the fuel system so you can test that the injectors actually spray fuel if/when they are triggered rather than just clicking.

The UIM & throttle body shouldnt affect the injectors but if you start the car you will have a coolant leak from the pipe on the UIM & it will run very rough due to the TPS being disconnected, HTH

Yesterday i shorted the brown & red wires on the connector & the lights do pop up & down with the button on the dash so you could do that as a temp fix if u want

also found this post http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1449.0 which seems to be same issue

Ive not actually got round to sorting it out but im 99% sure the problem is the retractor relay, it is located on top of the F100 relay box in the picture on post number 4 above, when i wiggled it around the lights pop up & down again, just need to get hold of one, as far as i know the same relay is used in some early mx5\'s swell, heres a pic of it

Bit late but for any1 else aftrr them just came across this

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=251277234444&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=73449451922