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Tokico set on softest.

Reduced to £140 for the full set.

They cost me more than double that, from the states, with shipping.

These are for the RX7 FD.
I can be contacted at carl at css-networks dot com.

[£160 + £15 delivery.]

Full set of KYB GR2 shocks, boxed as new.
The rears have been fitted to my car for about a week. The fronts have never been taken out of the box.

I found these to be too firm for my liking.

They are in immaculate condition. The build quality of them that I can see - that is the quality of the welds at the bottom, the quality of the lower bushing on the fronts, the design of the upper retainer that the top mount sits against, is all far better than the Tokicos that I have had, and they are built specifically for this application, unlike the Konis with their roughly stamped spring perch sat atop a worrying snap-ring, and incorrectly sized bolts that require drilling-out of the car\'s top mounts.

Unfortunately, they are bloody firm. R1-like and then some.

£160 + £15 delivery.

I got some too, about 6 months ago. I\'m happy with them, but I had to do some filing on one of them to get the pin to fit. They\'re not quite consistently made, but perfectly fine anyway and they shouldn\'t break!

I make 400hp with the stock fuel pump & lines. Can\'t comment on injectors etc.

A 13brew is about 180kgs and a 2jzgte is about 260kgs thats almost 50% more; not to mention the weight is much further fowards.

So the solution is an LS2 V8 :driving

.. double post

Ooops. Looks like I resurected a historic thread. I was using the search engine ..

I\'ve just sent a blown RX7 FD3S to Poland and the chap is dropping a TT Supra lump into it. How would the handling be on that i wonder considering how light the 13B engine is and also how far it\'ll be sat back in the bay compared to the much longer 3000cc Sup engine??
Dave.

Have you weighed a TT 13b ? I removed mine and the engine with all its ancilliaries (turbo bits etc.) weighs a frickin\' tonne. One thing it\'s not is light.

Prob with the 2JZ is that it\'s cast iron so weighs more than, and is 50% longer than the other option, e.g. all-alloy LSx, and as for how far back the LSx sits:



2jz is a great engine. I have one in my TT sup, and my last TT sup too, but I\'m liking the LS2 a lot.

Thanks guys, nice to know it\'ll work! So I can do it and not really worry (especially once the cats gone), and it will clear the flooding.  Now why does no one ever seem to do it then, but always remove plugs etc?!

I\'m not sure if the flooded engine aspect of your question has been properly addressed. They\'re saying there\'s no reason why bump starting shouldn\'t be done on a rotary, but whether bump starting is the way to clear a flooded engine is surely a totally different question.. are we talking about hyro-lock here? I\'d have thought plugs out would be the only way to clear a flooded engine. I know sweet fa about the rotaries BTW and am just re-posing the question for thought..

My RX7 clutch material looks like it\'s fibreglass. Is that typical or is it super duper?

cheers,
Carl

Well, the side seals and apex seals look OK. The apex seals are three-piece. Is this non-standard?

The corner seals look like the inner plastic part has melted on the inside. Do I just need new corner seals, or can the inner plastic bit be replaced?

Here are some pics:

Hi guys.

This is the good rotor. It\'s come up pretty nice I think.

Most of the seals were stuck due to cack deposits, carbon or coke or whatever you call it. I have freed most of them up except for one corner seal which I\'ll come back to another day.

What I want to know is.. can I just use the rotor like this? Everything is intact, but as I said, side seals, apex seals, and corner seals were all stuck down. This would presumably cause low compression. Now that they are freed, and the crevices cleaned of cack, or when they are completely cleaned anyway, will everything be good?

I gather seal wear is a bad thing due to the loss of compression, but I think in this case any low compression would not have been caused by wear, but rather crap buildup and sticking seals.

What do you think? I haven\'t cleaned up the apex seals too much yet as I am concerned the apex seals will pop apart. Maybe this means they are essentially non-reusable anyway? This is my first rebuild.

Here are the pics. Thanks for your input.


(that\'s just crap in the bottom right corner. It\'s not rotor damage. I\'ll get to cleaning that up properly later).


(sorry about the poor focus)

After I pulled the engine out, I noticed this wire. Anybody know where it\'s from? The plug there is actually both halves of the connector, so somewhere there is a wire which has had its plug ripped off.

The wire is black with a white stripe down it.



Notice the funny rubber round bit at the other end, as though that end plugs into something with a round hole in it.

Any ideas?

thanks,
Carl