Messages

Its been a while since i posted on here, generally because i dont have an rx7 anymore so im never going to speak or meet any of you guys again, even if some of you are nice enough blokes.

Anyway ive tried to forget about everything as it was making me feel ill with the pressure of it all but every so often i do get reminded of it.

You might be wondering why i never defended myself when all the accusations started, being honest its because i couldnt be bothered with it all.

Friends told me to explain everything, to stop jon doing to other people what he did to me, but i was happier walking away and clearing my thoughts of it all.

This isnt going to be a debate of it, and im not coming back on to have an arguement with anyone, read what i put, make your own judgement whether you believe me or none of my concern.

this is an email i responded to from a member on here

\'Hey Keith,

what would you like to know, apart from never believe anything he tells you unless you have it in writing before going ahead.

Personally  i wouldnt touch him with a bargepole, yes maybe to go down there and  buy a part from him, but never have any work done by him unless you  want to end up like i did.

For reference, I told him an amount to  work to, to build me a car.....the price was agreed, infront of 3  independant witnesses, never recieved an invoice for 9months after  asking nearly every week for one.

Then get an invoice for 150%  time the amount agreed with the vehicle only half built, asking for the  budget to be raised to 230% of the original quote to finish the vehicle,  at which point i declined as i would be unable to pay that amount,  especially when he was aware i would be unable to.

I even told him before we agreed the build that if he tried to do this, i would not pay him.

He  has also done this to someone else in the past (a blue shell) where he  sent the customer a bill for 20k without authorisation and the customer  told him to stuff it......hence he didnt learn his lesson from that.

with  me, budget was £10k, while he was building I gave him £6.5k........he  then tried to bill me for £15k for a half built car, telling me it would  now be £23k to finish the vehicle.

Thats the gist of it to be fair, so ive lost £6.5k and my pride and joy and learned my lesson very hard.

Hes trying to take me to court to get the rest, which you can imagine will get laughed at.

Also  tried to intimidate my employer into giving out sensitive information  and generally threating me to try and get me sacked from my job(my boss  listened to the call as we were on speakerphone so backs me 100%)

Unfortuately people on forums dont see the real side of things and generally turn it into a witchhunt on me.

Like  the manifold for one of the members, sent it out in the post, it got  lost, paypal gave him his money back, so i lost a manifold and payment,  so in my opinion that was case closed(i lost out but no point chasing  post office as i only sent it through the cheap service) but apparantly  im the devil\'


That pretty much somes it up, ill put my flame suit on and go watch a few movies.

with a fuel tank(76L) i can average 29mpg a run with a bit of low speed B road stuff(40-50mph)

if i was sat at 70mph i think 30mpg could be hit so i should be able to get close 500miles to a tank

I know blitz has got up to 30mpg on a run so its possible

Is there not any other people running PP\'s then? Other than the handful I have already listed, plus Ed and his new PP motor?

hes mentioned they are bigger than revolutions ports which were semi pp, so im guessing hes gone down the same route, maybe a large street port on the plates and small PPs on the housings.

Could be running them independantly so they open at higher rpm like i have seen before, or could be running them all the time, but its doubtful

I would have though he will be running JAY-TECH manifold like so

http://www.pro-jay.com/JAY-TECH-TWIN-TURBO-SEMI-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-JT-TTS.htm

how much was the dynatec?

can you run it on stock coils?

the full kit with coils, adapter harness and leads is about £400.

its a cdi kit so you dont run stock coils on it, to be honest i wouldnt  want to even if it saved me the £100 as it would dramatically reduce the  effectiveness of it assuming it would work at all

Yes but don\'t forget he has done some custom work to his turbo that may  allow him to achieve higher boost from it. I would imagine that he has  done the kind of work too it that tractor pulled guys do to there  turbos.

I may email him to see if I can get any more Info.

2.1 bar is mad, think he only allows that kind of boost in 4th gear though as it will destroy any of the other gears

ah i havent read his thread properly, just briefly skimmed through it so ill have to have a read properly.

alot of the time peter is right but he doesnt come across very well in written word, always seems like hes talking down to you which effects what people think of him, if he chilled out a bit more alot of people would respect him more and listen.

Dont know if ill ever run 2bar of boost on pump fuel, i know ross@dragon can do it but hes been running massive boost on rotarys for years so has loads more experience.

Ive thought about a supra 6 speed box with a 4.7 rear diff, but ill have to see how much the vehicle weighs first as those boxes are quite heavy, even though a rotary will never break one

Nice thread and good to meet you on Sunday - I hope the downpipe suits your needs!

One question - where did you get the digidash from as I\'m interested!!


Matt

thanks very much for the downpipe, was nice to chat and talk all things rotary, sorry i made you travel that far, felt a bit bad for the distance.

the dash is from ETB

http://www.etbinstruments.com/DD2_Range_Overview.htm

its £350 but comes with everything you could ever need, im looking forward to being able to monitor my engine temps/pressures accurately

Have you seen peters latest update on the aquamist forum? Apparently he has made a "quantum leap" in power and he\'s going to be showing the results as soon as he has installed the new driveline as it producing so much power now!!

dont really go on the aquamist forum, but just had a look after what you said, its interesting that hes got himself up to the 2.1bar of boost on pump fuel now, id imagine hte torque it produces is pretty impressive.

The only way i can imagine he is making even more power now is a change of turbo as at 2.1bar he will be maxing the to4z out.

be good to see him stick a 75mm turbo on there and see how he fairs, he might beat raceonlys 703whp on pump fuel record

et50 wont need flared arches at all no matter how wide your looking at

the stock rims are about et50.

show me the wheels your looking at and we can advise further

that will work well if the tank has a uniform cross section, however if the tank is a more complicated shape then there isnt a linear relationship between fluid depth and volume of fluid. you would have to take a number of values and derive the relationship between the two. still not the end of the world, just one more thing to bare in mind.

the fuel tank has a uniform cross section, it also has a flat boot as we cut the floor out and fitted a single flat sheet to allow for big diffusers/silencers

Yes that\'s the show, strangely my favourite one is , a 4x4 is born, really good engineering, very simple but complex thing working together to do something beyond normal, the articulation in the suspension is Insane!!

yep, on the 4x4 when he zinc plated the entire chassis, first time id ever seen anything like it, i was very impressed.

I wonder if i can find the series on a torrent somewhere

I see you have gotten yourself the same ignition as Peter? Well done. Are you getting the coil on plugs too?

yep, though only really saw how powerful it was from \'raceonly\' in OZ, who is running even more power on pump fuel.

ill be putting my coils where the abs unit used to be, id prefer that so it makes it easier to change plugs.

spoke to jon today, my wiring loom is in progress at the moment and the cdi kit will be intergrated into that, running a custom loom should hopefully again add to the weight loss and my shell is off for paint next week for a couple of weeks so if i dont have anymore pics before then ill get a few when i go down there at the start of october.

got solid ali engine mounts now aswell and pipework on order so its coming along well

how much bigger do you want to go, 10-60mm?

at the end if becomes a 3inch pipe to join up to my decat so no need to  change my exhaust, though at the moment with it being a ebay decat(no  silencer) and a trust exhaust its gonna be a bit noisy for track, will  need to have a think about it.

also these have arrived

dynatek ARC-2 CDI Ignition system, good enough to spark 1600cc of water per minute so good enough for me...its fit and forget



DigiDash2 Lite, show everything ill ever need, oil temp/oil pressure/coolant temp, ive never used anything like this so im looking forward to learning how to change gear at the right rpm as theres no rev counter



ill set up some initial things with jons datalogit, things like OMP flow rate, then when i get it home grant we will have to do a bit of mapping, be good for me to show you how simple it is

i know its a 60litre tank, but i dont know if that includes the 1litre of the sump, the sump wont be taken into the consideration for the fuel gauge anyway, ill know when i see 0% ill have 1ltr left.

id imagine when i go santa pod ill need 3ltrs of fuel to make a pass, the good thing is the sump is at the back of the tank so under acceleration the fuel is forced into the sump and under braking you dont need to worry so much about fuel flow.


the guy who did that show did quite a few series, my favorite was \'racing car is born\'

picked up new item today, since funds are limited im holding off on the big turbo until ive got the funding in place.

So i bought myself a knightsports twin pipe downpipe off a member on here.

This should help with reducing back pressure, egts and exhaust gas recirc on the compression stroke which holds off potential det and in turn increases the overall VE of the engine.

If im going to be running upwards of 20psi again on track i want to help everything as much as i can.



hopefully help with spool aswell as non-seq twins are pretty lazy

another question how do you know how much fuel is in the tank?

im running an ETB digidash2 that comes with a fuel level sensor so ill stick that in the tank.

since the tank is rectangular it will be pretty easy to give an accurate reading of the whats in the tank

If it doesn\'t start, that means it\'s empty I would imagine filling it to the brim before e every race/event will be the best way to make sure you don\'t run out of fuel.

Does the fuel tank have foam inside it too to stop the fuel sloshing around? Or is it baffled?

dont think ill be running that low that it wont start......can you imagine going racing and running out of fuel, how embarrasing would that be, especially if you only had to cover quarter of a mile, hey blitz;)

You would log injector duty for one lap of where ever your racing, calculate used fuel, then times it by the amount of laps(add one extra for cooldown/warmup lap)

Im not currently sure whats inside the tank, been trying to ring jon all day but sounds like hes busy moving shop so dont want to pester him to much

yeh rob it was made by them, its quite a good idea behind the design as it means you dont have to run a seperate swirl pot and lift pump which cuts down on weight.

the only way you could get fuel surge is either running the tank down to less than 1/2litre of fuel which would be very rare or if the car flips on its roof.

the benefit of this setup is ill be able to use the minimum amount of fuel required to complete a race which again keeps the weight down.

this is basically how it works

its a 60ltr tank with a 1litre swirl pot being picked up by 2 x 044s though -8 lines, fuel cap is in the B pillar which runs to the front top left corner of the tank for filling




any questions?

For the people that don\'t use proper AN fittings, you are cheap and aren\'t doing things properly. Get your money out and do it right, cheapskates.

haha grant you have never met me, im the tightest bloke you have ever met, I was actually contemplating running my car on 100% meth as it works out cheaper than pump fuel per rpm to hit the same afr!!

Flames would be nice to, dont think trackday organisers would be to impressed!

Im trying to avoid anything AN related at the moment to keep the costs down so i can spend it on other areas of the car to get it finished quicker.

So what happens if you use a hard line for the vac line instead of a braided line? The time between response would be reduced?

you wouldnt expect proper braided line to expand under pressure anyway so the change between them would be minimal, the issue is the distance of the line itself.

maybe a good analogy for this would the difference between a very small v mount cooler and a massive front mount cooler.

when at full throttle, due to there being more internal area from longer pipes/bigger cooler there is a delay in the full pressurised air entering the engine.

This is only minimal, but it is still there, normally this doesnt matter, but if you hit full boost and the fpr doesnt have chance to know what boost you are, close to ramp up the fuel pressure and in turn give you enough fuel your playing with fire a bit.


In an ideal world you could have the fuel pump next to the fuel rail one side and the fpr the other, this would minimise time differential and pressure losses from fuel and air.........but thats a bit over the top for 99.9999% of engines out there

I think Lee was talking about the vacuum line going to the FPR in the back - that\'s a long length of hose - and air DOES compress - that\'s exactly what you do in a turbo - so there would be a hell of a delay between front and back of the car.
 
To use your brake analogy - that\'s why you bleed breaks - because the fluid is good at transmitting the pressure pulse, and air in the lines isn\'t !!
 
I\'d stick with the FPR up front.

pretty much what i meant.

Running a vaccum line to the boot can delay the fpr working, as above, air compresses and it only takes a miniscule delay to put it fuel pressure one map point behind where it should be, yes you can componsate on the map for it, but why should you have to?

also its its a rubber/silicone vaccum pipe, they expand aswell, which again slows the process down.

i would run the fpr as close to the injectors/vaccum source as possible as i want the fuel pressure to match vaccum/boost as close as i can, anything else is folly.

Again, you bleed your brakes to get the air out, as liquid doesnt compress well.

it theory everything should be braided/solid lines with AN fittings but it costs a fortune to do so hence alot of people use silicone hose and shorten lines to minimise losses/delay

also jon, where are my pics....your keeping mrc waiting :spank

the issue you have is that a fpr works by boost pressure/vacuum, the closer it is the engine, the faster it recieves info on what the engine is doing.

Now if its in the boot when your on/off the throttle, you have to wait for the desired boost pressure to reach the fpr, then you have to wait for the fpr to react then the fuel lines to pressurise.

in my opinion, putting the fpr in the boot will double the amount of time to change the fuel pressure, then again double the amount of time for the fpr to recieve its boost pressure.


Overall i wouldnt recommend it at all, you want it as close to the outlet of the fuel rail and vacuum source as possible.

This is all my thoughts but it is backed up by common sense