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Clutch reduced to £250 as need of resurface for which I have been quoted £45+postage

Injectors, rail, throttle and elbow all collected

Weekend bump

Evening bumps :-)

Rebuild kit and ALS seals are now sold

Replied :-)

[SOLD]

---No silly offers as Im not rushing to sell anything
---I may have other bits kicking about so just ask
---All prices are collected or plus postage.
---Can't be assed to post anything big but will at a push.
---pictures upon request

SOLD- Sealed block low compression on the rear housing (no sign of housing or rotor damage through the exhaust post but unknown condition £400 for bare block OR £600 including UIM,LIM, Flywheel, blanking plates (used for single conversion and imp removal), alternator, water housing and ast removal neck.

SOLD - Complete engine, known good order as its in bits and was going to be my go to engine for a rebuild. It was a water seal failure and DOES NOT have corroded housing, was likely a pinched band. Either way it's in great nick, housings have minor wear all within mazda limits for a rebuild. £700

Atkins master rebuild kitt minus apex seals and oil filter. £700

Als unbreakable apex seals £300

Other spares including Oem irons, e-shaft, sump, wiring, manifolds, etc, etc just ask.

ACT paddle clutch, sprung type. £350

Coil packs on a diy mounting plate (ac pump location) £25

Spare OEM flywheel £50

Bosch 1680cc injectors, Indy blues with collars. They were cleaned and flow tested around 1000 miles ago. £150

billet bits fuel rail to match above injectors £80

Primary fuel rail with 550's as above cleaned and flow tested around 1000 miles ago. £50

Freddy inlet elbow (fake gready) £50

Dm Motorsport idler pulley £75

Low milage stock gearbox, perfect working order, will include short shifter and dm Motorsport brass shift collar. £200

Apexi PFC, 8 bit to suite 1992 fd. £500

Vmount.. Home made... functional. Including pipe work for £350 Will include the vented bonnet and fans with extended cables for a mere £50 more :-)

Kv85 ht leads £25

Oils sandwich plates £20 each (dm sport and gtrex? One. Dm hips missing the rubber seal.

I was in my blue rx8 and was having a play with a 911 turbo and the suddenly saw a brightly coloured FC very this morning. Was on the m3 just before 7am

Who was it?

Yep still nice and cool.... Sorry to rub it in hehe :-)

Thanks for all the help

Cool..wait a day before big celebration. Fingers crossed not a leak.

Owwwww...... don\'t say that!

To be fair, it should be ok. was holding pressure fine before.. and the only thing that\'s changed is the compressor has been bolted back on...

FINGERS LEGS AND EYES ARE CROSSED!!

YAY COLD AIR!!!!!

Took it back to Kwik Fit to get the re-gass done.. took the guy two complete cycles as it wouldn\'t take the pressure initially until he threw some more oil into the system before the 2nd run attempt to pressurize. Once that was done it gassed up to the .450kg required figure and instantly blew nice cold air.. YUM!

The car will now be a pleasure to commute in during summer!!!

Itll have valves in there and now youve discharged the gas the pressure switch will not be made so aircon will not engage. I wouldnt do any more airline blowing. Connect it back up and regass it.

Ok sounds good..

so interestingly i did take it to regas earlier today, and got told that it wasnt taking enough gas?

Now.. when i previously took it to kwikfit the guy used both teh high and low pressure outlets to perform teh bleed/flush/regas and topped it up just fine.

The guy who attempted it today only used the H (High pressure) inlet and said he was having issues. I pulled him up on it and he said "it should be fine with just the one" but he\'d give it another go with both H & L... but i had to leave due to running out of time.

Was he just doing it wrong?

OK

SO... two more problems following some further work.

Swapped out the compressor and the internal bearing was indeed dead! Whilst the lines were off i took an air line and tried to blow thru the lines to clear any crud out. I noticed that one of the lines between the condenser and the evaporator wouldn\'t blow through? but i decided this was most likely just a valve doing it\'s job? Or maybe not? Is there a block at the evaporator maybe?

Also, the compressor clutch isn\'t engaging automatically any more when the AC is switched on :-/ If i bridge the pins on the relay the clutch works perfectly..and i tested the relay and there is a define click when current runs through it\'s coil... so wtf is up with that?

HELP AGAIN?!?!?!

I wouldn\'t worry. My experience with RX-8 coolant temps is as follows;

1. Hot day, stop-start in traffic, temp 95-105 (I have alarm set at 108 and it has never gone off in these conditions as the fans will cope).
2. Steady driving, temp 80-95, depending on ambient and traffic conditions.
3. Trackday, 15 mins, boiling hot day (28-30 ambient), towards the end of the day, after about 7 track sessions, the alarm will go off occasionally at 108. Just ease off throttle for half a lap or so and then carry on. Temps drops very fast when off throttle and air flowing (plus fans running).

Most advice I\'ve received is 110-112 is the max you want to see, and that should be rare, but 105 isn\'t a problem.

The RX-8\'s two radiator fans
- START to run at LOW speed at 97 degrees
- INCREASE to MIDDLE speed at 101 degrees
- INCREASE to HIGH speed at 108 degrees

I think you can conclude that Mazda must have decided it is OK for the temps to run marginally above 108 if the fan only STARTS to run flat out at 108 to aid cooling.

This might help (from the RX-8 service manual); click to enlarge pic

Cheers Casey

It put\'s my mind at ease.

When i do decide to have a cheeky sideways bit of fun the temps are likely to soar due to poor airflow and constant high rpm. I\'ll keep an eye on it and see if i can setup an alarm on the OBD2 digi dash thing :-)

An RX-8 is designed to turn the fans on at over 100c deliberately as they found  that at these temperatures the engine gives it\'s optimum power

A few years ago I too worried about this and changed the fan switch that doubles up as the temp gauge sender but this made no difference, l even took temperature readings from different parts of the cooling system with an Autometer gauge, then I did some research and found the above.

I found that the best way to keep the temperature consistent was to vent the bonnet.

Hope this helps

Cheers Clive, helpfull but i still worry

From drifting the FD I have always been of the mindset that teh cooler the temps are at standstill.. the longer you can rag the crap out of the engine before the temps reach a critical value.

I guess the ideal for me would be the manual fan switch mod, so i can switch on the fans full blast if and when i want the temps to drop a little.


What about ally rads? I had great success with the old eBay £80 job on teh FD, any throughts on the the same for the 8?

While we are on teh topic, any other reliability mods that are worth doing?