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Hopefully this link will work!

http://s11.photobucket.com/user/suba11/slideshow/RX7%20Seats

As in the description, no rips, tears or scuffs - professionally leather covered set of FD seat and rails.

Tiny mark on the drivers side right hand bolster, which is shown in the pics.

£500 for the set, collection from Surrey (don't want to courier as I'd like to make sure that the buyer is 100% happy with them before paying)

Came from my own car after upgrading to a set of corbeau RRB's

here are the pics:

http://s11.photobucket.com/user/suba...ow/RX7%20Seats

Anyone?

After several months of messing about with a supplier I now have a set of Corbeau RRB seats in the car - they fit...just (both me and the car!), and are far more supportive than the stock seat.

However....the adaptor plates the came with (bottom mounted rails) mean that the seat is about an inch higher than the stock one in the car, so I dont fit with a helmet on with any degree of comfort, and I dont like the higher driving position either.

What are my options for ditching the adaptor plates, can one of the specialists make up custom rails or brackets that will do the job?

Hi,

I\'ve managed to break the \'twist\' mechanism of the passenger side wing mirror on my car - the mounting plate inside the mirror assembly is in bits. I dont fancy my chances of managing to repair it.

I\'ve tried to get a 2nd hand replacement from the usual places (RX motors / Jimmy\'s)

1) Does Anyone know of where I might get one (preferably in Silver Stone)

2) I\'m thinking of replacing both with aftermarket ones. I dont want to pay silly money, but would like a decent looking set - not bothered at all if they are electrically adjustable or not, but I would ideally like ones that I can bolt on without having to do any bodywork on the doors, and no cheap carbon look budget ones!

Can anyone recommend which ones to go for - maybe something like this:

http://www.madmotors.co.uk/exterior-...ng-mirror.html

Any help would be great - thanks.:3gears-lh

I did not get an answer to that question, so I ordered a new connector from a mazda dealer - apparently they do not stock the actual hose anymore either.....:2Confused

Some nice work there - did you do the exhaust manifold yourself? :god

Well - already got the t04 and the exhaust.  No WI though....:Talking1

[1.7bar, no BOV cause its not needed, but hey I\'m a Mechanical Engineer so what would I know right? ..... :spank]

BOV = absolute waste of space and time on a turbo car BTW :WaveBye save your ca$h and buy other parts and don\'t waste it on sh7t you do not need :Thumbsup!


1.7bar, no BOV cause its not needed, but hey I\'m a Mechanical Engineer so what would I know right? ..... :spank

Interesting to hear that - I just put a Blitz SS on my FD, and it was a lot of hassle having to get custom pipes welded up.  After installing it it would either .... out boost or hardly \'dump\' at all - it\'s now come off the car, and I am back to using a straight joiner instead.  I\'m unsure as to whether to bother trying another or not..... :mad:

As per the title I need to replace the above hose and connector....

The local Mazda dealer is being a pain getting the parts from.

Is there any reason why the plastic connecting bit that goes to the block from the hose can\'t be ditched, and a water hose run directly to the block?

If so then I can get a hose made up that should do the job...

Otherwise does anyone know a good supplier that I could get both the connector and the hose from?

cheers. :Thumbs-up

I have never understood WI - though all the knowledge I have is on piston engines, where it is mostly used to stop det in high boost applications - where det can\'t be stopped by retarding the ignition any further.

Mixing methanol and water can increase octane rating of the fuel, but you have to map to it, and in the event of a nozzle failing pop goes the engine....unless you start to run an ECU that can sense the failure and switch to another map...it all starts getting complicated.:Hammer

I shall certainly be keeping tabs on the engine - it\'s not a power monster, around 350-360 at the wheels at around a bar of boost on a To4E / S  :Thumbs-up

I dont want to drag this off topic for the original poster, but I am very interested in why UK rotaries dont ever seem to run that much boost.  On a GT30 or bigger turbo I can\'t imagine that intake temps are going to be much of a factor, as the turbo will still be efficient at 2 bar +, and when using a decent front mount I would have thought intake temps would be the same anyway.

I can see how there would be more heat generated by the turbo(s) themselves - but I doubt much of this would be transferred to the housings and rotors.  I would have thought the reasons would be more related to how much the rotor tips and seals can reliably take....

2.5 bar! Now that is insane. Is that what you run to on your car?

I\'s like to know more about this also - most UK rotaries seem to call it quits at a bar or so of boost to be reliable, whereas over in the US they go way higher on the boost level!

Are the higher boost levels only for WI?

An update on this:

engine is now back in the car with replaced corner seal and new rear housing, I\'ve kept the PTS apex seals as I dont want the additional expense of replacing them at this time.  If I get 20-30,000 miles from them then I\'m happy with that before a strip down and inspection.

It was compression tested cold before being installed - injector were also flow tested and cleaned, though the reading from them were fine.  Compression was fine, and consistent between rotors and chambers.

I\'ll put 200 miles on the engine to bed in the seals before mapping is finished.:Thumbs-up