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Can't see last bit of my post ....?

Just back on the road last three weeks as daily after 3 years off, mpg still a pig, worse than I remember!

Drove my fd for 3 years as daily driver, happy days!

Only down fall I thought was mpg.

Car had coilovers aswell

Anyone able to get a pic of this wire for me?

I\'ve ran my engine a couple of times, one thing amongst others was that my coolant temp was increasing with my revs, while I got no oil pressure.

After a bit of thinking I decided to change the sender from my old engine to the "new" one and it made no difference. But when I left the sender unconnected, the coolant level had no reading.

I realised that I had the coolant temp connector connected to oil pressure sender, but I can\'t for the life of me find a spare connector for the oil sender.

So if someone can get me a pic maybe I can figure out where it\'s gone, there is a possibility I\'ve plugged something in the wrong place somewhere else, like the ac pump, steering pump etc....and am looking in the wrong location for an unused connector

Cheers!

Hello!

Just in the process of changing engines in my fd. It\'s a 1997. It blew a tip(or 2) 🙈

Have an engine from an earlier model, can\'t remember the year but I think it\'s a 95\' certain it\'s 8 bit anyway.

Have almost stripped the 16 bit engine and hopefully do the 8 bit tomorrow aswell.

Plan was to take whatever parts i need from 16 bit and put on older engine to suit 1997 car.

Just wondering if anyone has a guide or a heads up as to what to expect to change?

From a quick glance I can see the loom obviously needs changing and the electronics/plumbing that control the turbos.

Cheers!

no sign of it down there, but will try again tomorrow with some sunlight.
 
anyone else got any ideas/thoughts?
 
im also wondering is it possible that it came from factory with no airbag? id be surprised but always possible

my airbag light comes on and stays on so from what i have found online i need to check the diagnostic module.
 
but cant find it! or any of the crash sensors under the bonnet.
 
I have the nardi wheel with airbag, but there doesnt look to be an airbag on the passenger side.
 
id nearly guess that it didnt come with airbags and somone just fitted the wheel in japan.
 
car is a 97 type rs.
 
any ideas on where the module is?
 
online manuals say left(passenger side) footwell but nothing there, unless its buried under the carpet and i have to cut it
 
cheers!

i found when on motorways/dual carriage ways, and sticking to speed limits and sensible driving, my fd is actually not that bad compared to what i get normally.
 
so i could almost believe that 30 mpg is achievable in the right conditions, like 56 mph, but in the real world, we have traffic, round abouts and traffic lights amongst other things that we have to slow down or stop for.
 
if you commute 7-8 miles each day, thats similiar enough to myself, expect around 20 mpg AT BEST, assuming you dont live and work right on the motorway.
 
best figure i ever got was around 18mpg for a whole tank. filled it to the brim from near empty and drove as efficient as possible, except a couple of occasions, till i was near empty again(fuel starvation round some corners)

just wondering whats the best way to do the above.
 
about to to put my rebuilt engine back in, and have a greddy profec b spec 2 from my last car sitting there.
 
im also removing the air pump and cat in the process, and plan to port the wastegate before it all goes back together.
 
just a couple questions,
 
1.. which wastegate do port, the easily accessible one or the one that looks like the turbo pack needs some dismantling.
 
2. what pipe do i plumb the solenoid into? the same as this diagram? http://www.carforums.net/images/projects/rx7/vacuum_hose_diagram2.jpg
 
3. do i need to adjust the wastgate arms, and whats ones? obviously want to lower boost as much as possible and use controller to increase, but keep lag to minimum
 
cheers!

cheers for the help all.
 
glad to hear its normall anyway, was worried there was a possibility it was rebuilt before and the 19mm was used to tighten against the 54mm nut.
 
i have the flywheel stopper to suit, so just waiting on getting the 3/4 19mm impact socket, then go at it again with the breaker bar and leverage bar, if that fails, a garage with 1" impact gun
 
i thought the 19mm was 80 lb/ft, is it defo 180lb/ft when retightening?

haha
 
did you get it drilled around the nut part you mean?
 
and you had to get a new one im guessing?
 
anyone else got any suggestions?
 
cheers!

hey.
 
having problems getting this off.
 
got a 3/4" impact gun rated at 500 lb/ft, which took about 3 seconds to remove the flywheel nut.
 
but the gun has so far not been able to remove the 19mm nut on the other side of the engine.
 
also broke a 3/4" - 1/2" impact reducer trying to remove the bolt with a 3/4" breaker bar and a bar for leverage. had to get someone to stand on the engine stand to keep it on all 4 wheels. also had put a heat gun capable of 500 degree c on the bolt for about 10 mins before breaking the reducer.
 
ordered a 3/4 19mm impact socket today, so thats the next step, but the bolt seems to be on extremely tight!
 
if this fails, im at a loss as to what to do next, any suggestions?
 
and just to confirm, the bolt comes off anti-clockwise as normal? its not a reveresed thread? going by the videos i have its a normal thread.
 
any suggestions welcome!!!
 
cheers!

pioneer do a set aswell, specifically for mazdas and fords in the correct size.
 
cant remember the model number, but the pioneers had a blue cone

its actually to the right of the radio, my bad!

ive a sony myself, but before that there was a little cover you could pop off the the trim that goes around radio/heater controls.
 
i was gonna put a switch in here for it, its to the right of the heater controls im sure

tell us what radio you have and might able to tell you what wire. if not do the following-
 
 
 
you\'ll need to find which wire powers the antenna
 
to do this, unplug the block from the radio
 
you\'ll need one of these http://www.installer.com/photos/testlight.jpg or one of these http://www.southernrods.com/categories/tools/products/images/DSCN0502.JPG
12v test lights
 
connect the clip end to a known 12V power source on the car. if you have an aftermarket radio, it will be the yellow or red cable going into the car with the ignition on
be carefull not to touch the metal of anything as it will be live, save the fuses!!!
 
now, with the tester end of the test light, probe each wire on the block(original mazda one) untill one raises the aerial.
 
this is the wire you will need to put a switch on to control your aerial. cut the wire and join the 2 ends up to a switch.
 
just get a normal on-off switch and it will do the job.
 
make sure no metal/wire is exposed after.