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I\'m fairly sure that the bulb lit up as I gear changed, so that every time I eased off the accelerator in between changes, it lit.

That is opposite to that document above. But it makes more sense to me. As the name is richer solenoid, it suggest that when powered, makes it richer. Also the way i see the construction, when powered the coil retracts the plunger and opens an additional feed.

The thing what confuses me is that in my carb and spare carb there is no plunger in the solenoid.  And to make it more confusing, when idling when i apply 12v to the solenoid, the idle gets rough. So even there is no plunger in, it is doing something.

I have stripped all the hoses, valves and solenoids from my carb, leaving only the bits what matters.
I don\'t know what to do with the "richer solenoid"
 

 
As i understand it\'s job is to prevent big bangs in the exhaust when coasting. The name "richer solenoid" means it makes the mixture richer during coasting?
 
When is 12 volt applied to the solenoid? Under coasting or when not coasting? In my application, should i connect a permanent 12 volt or not?
 
When i unscrew the solenoid, i expect a plunger, but there isn\'t. This is also the case on an other carb i have laying around. In the haynes manual there is a plunger showing in the solenoid. Should there be a plunger?

The haynes manual says to run the engine for 6 minutes at 2000rpm. The pump should deliver about 2 - 2.5cc.  
Haynes says: If not correct, adjust the endstop of the lever.
I don\'t have an endstop as shown in the manual. Does it means it never need adjustment?

Current milage is 68.846.
And the engine will go to Holland where it will replace the dead engine in my matra.
Couple of years ago when i put the rotary engine in my matra, i also modified the OMP. I gave it a separate feed with 2stroke oil, instead i uses oil from the sump. It worked great. The olny thing is, you have to keep an eye on the 2stroke oil tank.
I went to a trip to Austria, and i kind of forgot to check the oil........
So i am pleased with this new engine.
 
www.maztra.nl

 
On ebay being scrapped.
reg FB 400X

Today i\'ve been to this breaker, and bought the engine. The car was still not touched yet, and i didn\'t looked bad. It ended up as scrap thanks to the scrappage scheme.
 
The engine purring like a cat. The engine looked clean, the oil looked clean, and under the oil cap looked clean. There was a ro-techniks sticker in the engine bay, and a rx-7 club sticker at the back. I assumed that this car was owned by a enthusiast. That gave me confidence to buy this. I don\'t know if the price is right, but actualy, i don\'t wanna know
 
The only thing what worries me is that the scrap yard staff are driving the scrap cars like maniacs. I saw how they move cars around the yard. Spinning wheels and screaming engines.
 
The registration of this car isFBP 400x
Is this car known on this forum?

I\'ve only had time to have a quick scan through your website but it looks as though you\'ve had a bespoke input shaft made to run in the Mazda needle roller fitted in the crank. I was thinking this wasn\'t necessary. I thought the general rule of thumb was rear wheel drive gearboxes locate in a bearing in the crank where as front wheel drive boxes don\'t. As I was using a front wheel drive box I didn\'t think it was necessary. I\'d be interested to here your thoughts on this
Cheers Martin

As far as i know, most of the inputshaft have a pilot-end which goes in the center bearing of the crank. Both transversal gearbox and RWD gearboxes. It is meant to hold the inputshaft in the center of the crank. The toyota box i used, doesn\'t have such a pilot-end on the input shaft. The shaft i made (with pilot-end) is only a tool to line the gearbox up with the engine. After it was lined up, i put the original input shaft back in.
 
My first thought was to get the bolt pattern from the engine and gearbox and draw an adapterplate with autocad. Problem was i couldn\'t found these patterns. And even if i found them, question is if the center of the shaft is also marked (and how acurate). So i skipped the plan of designing the bolt patern with autocad. Instead i made a adapterplate without any holes.
I just marked and drilled the holes of the engine, bolt it to the engine, put the engine in a vertical position, and put the gearbox on top. With the input shaft tool i made i centered the gearbox, using the needle bearing in the crank as reference. Marked and drilled the holes in the adapterplate and that\'s it! It worked for me.
 
If you\'re not using the mazda flywheel, you have to use a mazda flywheel flange from an automatic gear with the same engine. The mazda flywheel has some counterweights in it. In an automatic gear flywheel the counterweights are in the flange. You can bolt an alternative flywheel to this flange.
 
I prefered to use a PSA gearbox instead of the toyota one. The thing with PSA gearboxes is, that the part of the dif where the shaft comes out, is not flush with the bellhousing. That makes the adapterplate a bit more challenging. But if you tilt the engine a bit backwards, you move that part of the dif away from the engine. Which makes it a bit easyer.

But thats a 12a engine, there is a 20mm increase in overall length with the 13b.

So? Will that make gearbox/adapterplate/driveshafts/exhaust more difficult?

does look like you will get a drive shaft in there when the exhaust is on or is it just the angle the picture is taken??

Here\'s my bodge
 

 
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Succes!
 
Greetz Bart Heemskerk