Messages

Would it be worth adding some wider out riggers on the bottom ? Would expect it to be very unstable if you rotate the body.

Shaun

The shell without engine and trans are so light, so it\'s no need for outriggers...

We are three friends sharing 100 square meters in a big garage.
Stockholm price 7500:- Sek = £665 /month to rent...   :-(

I had a surgery on my neck on Thursday, so I will not be able to stay in the garage for a few months. To help my friends to be able to move my car around without wheels, I had to create something clever... It is now possible to move "Harry" around in the garage, and also to rotate the body when I am fit again.
Easy made of two engine stands and a square 50x50mm tube!

I forgot this little thing...

As I wrote earlier, I do have plans for the engine...
But i have changed my mind!
It will be using 13B 6-port end plates with T2 middle plate at the  beginning, and I am going to bridgeport the socondary ports. This  toghether with a semi PP should be enough... :-)
The side plates have the butterfly type of secondary port, but they are going to be removed.
The exhaust ports are also going to be a little bigger.

I do also plan to have the engine injected, I have actually bought a  intake (throttlebody) from a Suzuki GSX750R at a decent price, as this  is going to be a low budget built car. 8 injectors built in from the  beginning.   :shock:

What I also done is to find a rear axle that will meet my goals at least 500hk.
 I bought a axle for a B1600 pickup on a scrap yard in the middle of Sweden.
 The advantage of this is that it has the correct width from the beginning, it differs only 40mm hub to hub to the original.
 Another fun thing is that there is a dust cover riveted to the hub when picking out the big 6-bolt drums.
 Guess what rivetes pattern is? Well, 4x110 millimeters ... grin
 You just have to drill the holes and bang in the new wheel bolts, jippie!
 These axles are on 8", and the only thing I can find that would be just as strong is the Ford 9".
 But, for shortening... To much hassle that I do not want to bother about now.
The B1600 drive shaft diameter is 30mm, a tough part...

Here is a pick with the B1600 to the left, and FA3TS on the right side.



Another  thing that a like, it is a 30 splined axle. The same as on a never  B2600 4wd diff. And now the best bit... B2600 diff fit straight into the  B1600 housing!
4.44:1 ratio and limited slip  :-)

This is a bad pick, but the difference is huge!


Sand blasted and painted



And finaly for this update...
I found a person in Sweden with lots of brand new OEM parts.
The tank lid is the first thing on the car so far!




Unfortunately, I will not be able to work on the car now for a few months again. On Thursday I\'m going to have surgery on a cervical vertebra that has been mean to me for years ...
 But as soon as I feel fresh enough, I will be off into the garage again!

It has been a long time since last update, but I have done a few more things on the car...
Front bumber looked extremly bad, but I actually managed to save it.
It took me a few hours of hard work, but here is the result!




And a test on the car!

http://www.sanderson-parts.com/mitsubishi-old-l200-square-shaped-vehicle

hi mate, did you see these?

Steve

Thanks!
I\'ll have a look at them to find out if the do fit...

I have done a few things lately but not much.
Update will come soon!

What size are they? is it the tube diameter thats the issue?

They need to match the tube.
70mm or 2 3/4"  and not shorter than 155mm.

hi mate! You manage to find the brackets and U bolts yet?

Steve

Nope!

I can\'t find them in Sweden...

Lars

I have done a rear axle change on my 1300 now...
Found out that Mazda B1600 fits perfect, even in lenght.
I have also bought a B2600 and put that in the 1600 axle, fits straight in!
LSD and tougher than the B1600.
I will soon put up pics in my project tread here.
You can look at some pics here, but the text will be in Swedish... http://nrcc.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22&start=120

But as I did say, I will update my tread here soon!
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68001

I have done a huge search without finding the answers...
My Old school project Mazda 1300 -75 do need a new rear axle.
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68001&highlight=school+1300
It will be a 500hp sleeper when I am done!  :3gears-lh
I found a Mazda B1600 rear from 1977 on a scrapyard.
I would love a stronger diff or even LSD in it.
What would fit?

just looked at my tester
it and i think im buggered it does not look like the 1 way valve comes out its a part of the gage the hose its self has no restriction blow and suck
from both ends (im not gay)
 
you no of any company\'s that sell 1 that the 1 way valve comes out

 
Most low cost testers would do!
But sucking blowing in the pipe/tube when it is loose should be without restriction. The one way valve will be close to the gauge...
Mazda garageges should have prober ones for rotarys, maby you could lend one?? To bye them is to expensive.

There will be a valve for "backpressure", don\'t know what it is called in English...
You need to take that away!
You will also need some assistant doing the test, because you can only se every combustion pulse for each chamber for a short while.
But it will still give you an idea about you engines compression...