Hi,
I have just traded in my lovely MX6 for and even better RX7 Turbo II...
I\'ll put some pics up when I get the batteries charged for my camera.
It\'s a 1990 on an \'H\' plate with 60,000 on the clock (but only 39,000 on the engine). Full service history, including a Mazda replacement lump 39,000 miles ago due to overheating. It has come with the service manuals on CD and has clearly been very well looked after.
Can\'t wait to start the modding, what would you suggest first? Induction kit? BOV?
Will
Hi Will,
welcome to the forum and to the top of the slippery slope of modding the T11. Have a good look threw the old pages of the 2nd gen section theirs loads of good tips on modding your car, but my personal start point would be intake and exhaust mods to start with the onto cooling to keep it running sweet, pop in some extra gauges to keep an eye on temps and pressures. This should help with keeping your new engine in one peice, i\'m sure loads more advice will follow.
mark :cool
It all depends on far you want to go, if your going to go for big BHP then my first mod would be a new ecu, all the other mods can be taken from there and you\'re not risking the engine by bolting parts on and then changing the ECU.
I would also suggest giving the suspension bushes a good check over, on most 2nd gens the origionals are well perished by now.
Either way, welcome to the club! :wave
welcome aboard
first mods i would suggest is get shut of the cats ( both of them )
this makes the engine breathe better which is always a nice thing and you should notice a bit of difference
from there is all depends how much £££ you have :)
Cheers for the advice guys...
I\'m not really into massive HP, the car is totally original, and I want be able to put it back to that when (if) I get rid...
I like the idea of the decat, I assume the cats are not needed for the MOT? Any advice on aftermarket boost gauges, are they easy(ish) to fit? I was looking at a nomad one, as I have a nomad A/F/R out of my MX6 to put in, oh and while on the subject, anyone know where the wire from the Lambda sensor on the ecu is for the A/F/R meter??
Sorry for all the questions, I\'ll settle down when i\'ve done a few bits, got to fill the stereo type of a noob for a while :)
Other than that I\'m loving the car at the mo, it\'s such a massive difference from my old MX6, I have a big grin :D on every time i get out!!
W
It is possible to pass the mot without cats. you must set the idle very lean, but make sure u reset it after the mot or its big bang time!
boost gauge is a 10 min job - its really simple !!
as the car is before a 92 - you dont need the cats - and by removing the precat ( actaully fitted to the turbo ) - it keeps the heat away from it !
and NO idea about the lamba sensor thingy - can you not just patch directly to the wires from the lamba sensor ( you can see it with the bonnet up )
apart from that - have fun with the car !!
they are a great toy
Are there any places you would recommend for decat pipes and the like??
Please don\'t say i\'m going to have to make one like i did for my old mx6!:(
W
There are loads of places, try getting in touch with WGT or Hayward rotary et al.
QuoteOriginally posted by WillRayden
Cheers for the advice guys...
I\'m not really into massive HP, the car is totally original, and I want be able to put it back to that when (if) I get rid...
I like the idea of the decat, I assume the cats are not needed for the MOT? Any advice on aftermarket boost gauges, are they easy(ish) to fit? I was looking at a nomad one, as I have a nomad A/F/R out of my MX6 to put in, oh and while on the subject, anyone know where the wire from the Lambda sensor on the ecu is for the A/F/R meter??
Sorry for all the questions, I\'ll settle down when i\'ve done a few bits, got to fill the stereo type of a noob for a while :)
Other than that I\'m loving the car at the mo, it\'s such a massive difference from my old MX6, I have a big grin :D on every time i get out!!
W
Hi,
Using the narrow band lambda sensor is useless for your afr guage. Be carefull when planning your mods. IE, the less restrictions in the exhaust and intake systems equals more boost creep and hitting the boost cut. Once you fool the ecu with a fuel cut defender, you will need to increase the fuelling to stay inline with the increased boost pressure. This is easy enough, but generally as boost pressure increases, timing needs to be retarded. The Std ECU will not do this as it will only see a boost level just before the boost cut, as the fcd clamps the voltage on route to the ecu. This leads on to needing an ignition controller or a standalone ecu system.
If you want only to improve on the std package, i would suggest:
1: Removing the front cat in the downpipe, fitting a catback(main cat) exhaust system.
2: A heat shielded open filter, or a performance panel filter.
3: Rewire the fuel pump, as the cabling is too thin.
4: Try limit exeeding 12-13 psi on the std turbo.
5: Oil change every 2500-3000 miles(Mineral oil)
This is about as far as one can go without moving to a new ecu. These cars will eat into your pockets if a limit is not set, or a tuning route not defined. One improvement will always find another part lacking.
I hope you can use this, and i hope to see more 2nd gens at Rotorstock next year.
John
88 GT-R
Thanks John,
I\'ll bear that in mind... At the moment it\'s going to stay standard because I\'ve not got the money to start modding yet! But first on the list will be the exhaust.
Are you saying that I can\'t put my A/F/R gauge in??
Will
QuoteOriginally posted by WillRayden
Thanks John,
I\'ll bear that in mind... At the moment it\'s going to stay standard because I\'ve not got the money to start modding yet! But first on the list will be the exhaust.
Are you saying that I can\'t put my A/F/R gauge in??
Will
Oh you can put it in, and is very easy to connect... but all it will be, is a cluster of pretty lights. As a cheap free mod and peace of mind, look at re-wireing your fuel pump. As a test, with the engine running, test the voltage at the pump. I bet you will not see more than 9 volts.
John
88 GT-R
john mate ,
can we have an idiots guide of how to test the pump
like which wire to prob :)
ta matey
stu
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
john mate ,
can we have an idiots guide of how to test the pump
like which wire to prob :)
ta matey
stu
And where the fuel pump is! :D
fuel pump is easy mate
lift up the carpet in the boot and there is a big metal plate - remove that and its under there :)
Cheers,
I was looking under the bonnet last night, and couldn\'t see it, :confused: that explains why :rolleyes:
W
Hi Stu,
In the back behind the passenger seat, under the carpet is an aliminium plate. Remove this and you will see the top of the fuel tank cover. There are three black tabs, which are the connectors for the pump. One is for the fuel level, whilst the other two are are earth and power. I cannot remember which is which:rolleyes:
Use your ohmmeter to check across the points.
John
88 GT-R
Welcome to another FC!
I can only echo what others have said, on a budget de-cat & induction kit. Any more than that and you are looking at new ECU (Microtech is the way to go on that front) which to be fair aren\'t too expensive but it starts you down the serious modding route!
One of the advantages we FC owners have over the FD lot is that the FC seems to run a bit richer so you can do a de-cat and induction without much rish of leaning out the fueling (notice I said much risk).
John, how\'s the Dash Unit working out BTW?
Hi Mark,
I\'ve seen your car at the Reading meet, which was one of the reasons I went for an FC - I\'ve been going there for a while in my MX6 (red one J reg).
I notice from your profile we\'re in the same line of work as well, be good to meet up, maybe next month at the Reading meet?
Will
Hi Mark,
Working great. Buttons are a bit niggly, but isn´t a major drama. How was your wedding? Ours went to plan..ish. The weather here was great, which was a bonus.
John
88 GT-R
so much to do and do little time
i will have a look at the pump when i get chance - still trying to source a cheap FD pump - they should stop the leanness of the car
although from speaking to pip he says they run mega rich out of the factory and he reckons that you can ( safely ish ) run a decat , fcd and boost controller and not worry about the fueling issues - but only time and a dead engine will see to that !!
QuoteOriginally posted by WillRayden
Hi Mark,
I\'ve seen your car at the Reading meet, which was one of the reasons I went for an FC - I\'ve been going there for a while in my MX6 (red one J reg).
I notice from your profile we\'re in the same line of work as well, be good to meet up, maybe next month at the Reading meet?
Will
Sounds cool! we could always try and start a Thames Valley pub meet for all us Rex owners who can\'t trek round the M25 of a Tuesday evening!
John, glad the wedding went well, so did ours, I\'ll post a few pics in the chat section!
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
so much to do and do little time
i will have a look at the pump when i get chance - still trying to source a cheap FD pump - they should stop the leanness of the car
although from speaking to pip he says they run mega rich out of the factory and he reckons that you can ( safely ish ) run a decat , fcd and boost controller and not worry about the fueling issues - but only time and a dead engine will see to that !!
Although Pip is a very good friend and bloody experienced, i would disagree with that statement. It is true that the std fc ecu runs rich... but only at low- medium rpm. Upwards of 5 grand, when there is greater load on the stock fuel system, things can get a bit hairy.
As i said before, the fcd will clamp the voltage at about 3.8 volts between the pressure sensor and the ecu. This stops the ecu from cutting fuel, but also keeps the timing at a level suitable for about 8.8 psi.
When you creep up to 13-14psi, the turbo will be getting extremely warm and heating up the compressed air more than usual. This is where you need the ecu to retard the timing.
Peak load is where peak torque is produced. On our engines, this is normally in the region of 5000 rpm. This point is where the engine is more suseptable to detonation. As you can see, this is why unless you replace the ecu and fuel system, these problems will not be solved.
i apologies for my rambling... i hope that it may be useful:rolleyes:
BTW, for the price you pay for the fd pump, you are better off getting the walbro...as you will no doubt need more fuel later on:D
John
88 GT-R
just a bit more about the fuel pump
**********************
To test voltage to the fuel pump, clip positive lead to blue wire and negative lead to any ground. Wiring harness plug can be located on the driver\'s side rear shock tower.
The color of the wire going into the plug is blue. The color of the wire coming out of the plug (going into the fuel pump) is black with white stripe.
Lift the carpet that covers the rear hatch area.
Remove the rubber/felt noise deadener mat.
You should be able to see the wires that run to the gas tank.
**********************
John - just an update of what the state of play with my car
1 - needs load of welding so off the road
2 - mods to come are
a : precat - will make a full decat system then
b : FCD
c : Boost contoller
d : blitz fmcs - it alters the fuel curve - not mapable
e : upper front brace
f : lower front brace
g : fd pump ( if and when i can find one !! )
with those mods ( non have been done yet ) - so you think the car will be safe to drive and i dont want to see much above .8 bar really - so not going for 13 - 14 psi
currently , it spikes to .5 bar and then settles down to .4 bar and holds this as a constant reading - not sure if this is a good sign or not ???
thanks
stu
QuoteOriginally posted by grinder
just a bit more about the fuel pump
**********************
To test voltage to the fuel pump, clip positive lead to blue wire and negative lead to any ground. Wiring harness plug can be located on the driver\'s side rear shock tower.
The color of the wire going into the plug is blue. The color of the wire coming out of the plug (going into the fuel pump) is black with white stripe.
Lift the carpet that covers the rear hatch area.
Remove the rubber/felt noise deadener mat.
You should be able to see the wires that run to the gas tank.
**********************
John - just an update of what the state of play with my car
1 - needs load of welding so off the road
2 - mods to come are
a : precat - will make a full decat system then
b : FCD
c : Boost contoller
d : blitz fmcs - it alters the fuel curve - not mapable
e : upper front brace
f : lower front brace
g : fd pump ( if and when i can find one !! )
with those mods ( non have been done yet ) - so you think the car will be safe to drive and i dont want to see much above .8 bar really - so not going for 13 - 14 psi
currently , it spikes to .5 bar and then settles down to .4 bar and holds this as a constant reading - not sure if this is a good sign or not ???
thanks
stu
Hi Stu,
If you don´t mind me asking, how much are the fcd, boost controller and Blitz fmcs costing you? By having a fully open exhaust system, you will see .78-.82 bar without the boost controller. This is assuming you have an open air filter too. Before you use the fuel controller, the pump has to be changed, and preferebly rewired.
John
88 GT-R
the boost controller and FCD are £0.00 ( came off the white one we are breaking ) and the blitz is gonna cost me £60
i will be running the standard filter ( with standard element - the paper one )
is this bad ??
Yeah no worries, have a look on //www.1300cc.com on how to do the rewire. I can´t remember the exact size wireing etc off the top of my head.
I hope she is ready for Rotorstock... as if they are ever ready:D There is always something else to do or get!
John
88 GT-R
john,
so i should be ok with what i am hoping to run then ??
oh great guru of rx7\'s
thanks
stu
Hi Stu,
You should be ok, just get the pump fitted first.
John
88 GT-R