Once I sell my car which I may have just done, I will be starting on this beast. My aim is to get the same or a little more power out of it than i have in my FD (about 360 ATW) but set the suspension and tyres up purly for drag and make it Very light.
It currently has a FC Turbo II 13 B engine and gearbox, it has a front mount but has the stock TII computer. These pictures are a little old, it now has 16" wheels and not the 15\'s you see here. Also because they are scanned photos the colours are not very good, it is actuall Rover Nightfire Red. (sort of burgandy)
I will keep you posted on how it goes.
another
Good luck with the project, looks interesting! :)
is this also the one with an FC steering column and rack ?
A man with a plan - hope you sell your beast as I look forward to seeing and hearing this one go up the strip!:D
Like the number plate: B787 = 787b = le mans meuseum (http://mangopool.net/index2.php?section=LeMans04)
Sounds like a fun project. What times will you be aiming for once complete?
Iain
Mike, it has has an EGI rack and pinion steering set up because when we tried fitting the turbo engine the turbo hit the infamous first gen steering box. Makes it a little less of a guess as to which direction you are turning. :eek:
I\'m not aiming for any particular times, there will always be people faster, Tim, Geff and Ross are in the game so can afford to put more time and money into what they do as it has some benefit to their business. I am basically going to take the 13b engine, make the ports as big as i dare, i might try a streetport if i\'m feeling brave with the die grinder, stick the Mitsubishi TD08 (T88) turbo on it that i have in the garage. Not sure what ECU yet, microtec will be easier to fit on the turbo 2 engine but i might use FD bits (TPS etc) and then fit a Power FC.
I was speaking to a guy who races a mark 2 escort with a V8 engine, he has 307 BHP at the wheels and runs 10.01 in a street legal car (slicks though) so you dont need massive BHP to get quick times but his car "doesnt like corners", as carl always says its more to do with how you set up the car. Using the stock FD is a compramise because it still has road suspension, thats also why in aus they get much quicker times than us. They put a Toyota Hilux back end on it or a Ford 9" diff and get in the 9\'s and 10\'s with a 13b turbo engine, usually in some old 1970 Datson or RX3. I want some of that
:3gears-rh
Let me know if you want a hand, not that I am technical or anything but I make a mean cupppa.
are you going for a no compramise drag race special then ?
reckon you could set some good times using the aussie ideas but with cheap UK friendly bits.
Substitute a hilux or ford 9" for a big chunky volvo rear end (lots of big hp drag racers used to use them) + the rare turbo ones come with a LSD or if its a real drag only machine a totally locked diff would provide the most traction :D
I will be keeping it road legal so that i can enter the road legal events. I wont be racing competitivly.
I\'ve not heard of the Volvo back end being used but i have heard that a B2000 truck back end is an option. I will see what i can get hold of that is Ltd slip. Lock diff will be a little harsh. I will driving to the track! A lot will depend whay will fit without tubbing out the rear end, I dont want to make any changes that will be ireversable.
I think they are pretty popular in the hot rod world, they must be fairly common as quaife lists an ATB diff for the 240 !!.
A volvo 240 would yield a pair of big 4 pot calipers for the front+ a chunky back axle.
Hauser racing make an A frame that bolts onto your suspension and chassis, they recon it illiminates nearly all wheel spin, can fit to almost any car. Might be worth looking at.
Hauser Racing
+44 (01933) 312735
QuoteOriginally posted by rotarytarts.com
Hauser racing make an A frame that bolts onto your suspension and chassis, they recon it illiminates nearly all wheel spin, can fit to almost any car. Might be worth looking at.
Hauser Racing
+44 (01933) 312735
There are many companies doing these mods too.
Kind regards
Carl
funny that.... there\'s a B2000 at Tim\'s... I wonder.... (I ain\'t saying nuffin\' guv):evillaugh
is that Mat, that works at Tim\'s?
if so, hands off my back axle.
I didn\'t think the B2000 rear end looked much different from the standard S3 rear end ? having said that I have only seen photos of a B2000 rear end ( on the lookout for a pickup to use as a daily beater/ lugging parts about)
The Mazda vans also have strong boxes, seem to recall my Dad saying that a fix for early FC\'s with knackered syncro\'s was to have the panel van double syncro\'s fitted to replace them
As you mention street porting your motor yourself, you should check out NoPistons.com.
There are lots of threads about porting engines on there. Any post that Judge Ito makes is usually worth reading as he seems to be a very good engine builder and he also sells porting templates.
I\'m very tempted to try porting my engine at somepoint in the future.....
HTH
Paul
I streetported my primary and secondary ports on my FD with excellent results, with the first gen i wont mind if its heavy on fuel or has a lumpy idle, neither of which i have on my FD.
Go for it.
Keep meaning to do something with the 2 first gens festering n the drive, but other projects/kids/work/gardening always gets in the way.
( I like 1st gens the best)
this sounds like a great project. I have seen people using b2200 diffs in rx3\'s in oz for a drag racing car. The standard ratios are great for the rotary on a quater mile.Some are like 4.8 to 1.
I am going to use a hilux diff as I think it is a 4.4. Also b2000 and b2200 axels are quite alot thicker than standard rx7 ones. The might also be 4 pinion as well.
Being able to launch at top end rpm and know that your driveline will stay together is a great piece of mind. Please keep us informed as to the progress of this.
cheers.