How come we dont have guides in this section (Sticky ones) for 1st and 2nd gen cars? After all there are a lot more of them about than FD\'s...........
Do you think we should do them? (After having seen numerous posts recently concerning 2nd gens)
This club represents all the rotaries after all.
:wave
Good idea, who want to write the guides?
I will then make it a sticky, I would offer to write about the 2nd Gen but i think there are some people out there who know a bit more than me.
You can copy off of my post last night, in this section. Having said that, I\'m only really upto speed on Egi\'s, my TII knowledge is just based on my general knowledge of rotaries and turboing low compression engines.
I reckon we should post this at the head of both 2nd gen and 1st gen sections, then copy and paste the best bits to a pair of sticky\'s in this section.
I\'ll do a 1st gen guide if you like. might be a bit basic at first though.
Heres some bits plagerised from an earlier post of mine:-
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Main points:-
Egi, if its done more than around 90k then engines gonna be needing a rebuild if its been thrashed.
TII, if its done more than 60k then its gonna need a rebuild fairly soon.
Cab, same as TII but check the hood and motors etc too.
All:-
Check lights move smoothly, dodgy lights can be a sign of a crash in its history.
Rust, check inside the front section of the rear arches for hidden rust (it\'ll be a bit soft if its on the way out). Check the sills, box sections and front cross member (just in front of Rad) for rust. If it has a sunroof check it out for rust too. Check around the windscreen for rust as well, its a hell of a job to do if you have to sort that one out!
Baggy suspension, if the car feels very odd under acceleration and deceleration (body seems to yaw one way under accel\' other way under decel\') then its a combination of old rear shocks and worn bushes. (Bushes are very expensive from mazda)
Brakes, The brakes should feel firm and not spongy, any pull or odd pedal feel can usually be traced to sticking calipers. (Front and rears do this)
Engine temperature, if this soars in traffic then the Hydostatic fan has expired. A new one is expensive, but aftermarket electronic kits are available/or easy to make your own.
Engine should start after a second or so from cold and hot. If it does not start easily form hot (Turn off wait about 10mins then see if it starts=hot start test) then a rebuild is on the cards.
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As for the specs:-
Egi.
13B injection, 2x654cc rotors.
8000rpm max, red line @ 7000rpm.
146Bhp. (Later models may have had a little more)
xxxx??? Torque? (I dunno)
0-60= 8.2seconds
Top speed around 130-135mph
5spd Manual. (Auto version?)
Cruise control
Electric sunroof
Electric mirrors
Electric windows
Clarion sound system
Rev warning buzzer @7000rpm.
15x6 alloy wheels. Early ones were matt, later were polished.
Early versions had boot tip spoiler, later versions had rap around
version.
Cost new £14000ish...
Cost now £500-2500. Depends on condition and wether its private or garage sale.
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Some can do upto 150k before the engine dies, most seem to start \'tailing off\' around 90k.
DIY rebuild (assuming you\'ve got tool room facilities to handle end plates etc) can cost around £1200-1500, sometimes a lot less or a lot more....
Professional rebuild £1800-2500
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Cant think of much else right now.
Just popped something up, can you have a look to make sure i have pasted it in ok.
I should mention it is a US guide so some info may differ.
Its looking good!
Need to try and get some Uk info for the TII and Cab though. If memory serves the UK ones are all alike? e.g highly specced, whereas the US market had several options for trim and ancillaries.