hi,
Just bought a 1993 rx7 type r. want to give it a thorough service.
can anyone reccomend the type and or where to buy the best engine oil, plugs, g/box oil, dif oil, oil filter, fuel filter e.t.c. for a 1993 type r?
any helpfull tips welcome also for an rx7 newbie!
I have allready found out the hard way about the air separation tank\'s brittle nature and tendency to blow up!
Thanks
Phil.
Welcome to the rotary club fella.
Engine oil. I think most are using Castrol Gtx mineral - 10/40. Never use fully synth except Royal Purple rotary specific stuff. Gary at Rotary Tarts.(link at top of page ) can sort you this out.
Plugs - NGK BUR7EQP for leading and BUR9EQP for trailing. There is a sticky thread in this section explains the logic.
Gear and diff oil. Try to get Redline stuff. I run it and find it top notch. I\'m sure others here can give you other suggestions.
Bummer about the ast. Hope you got it sorted.
By the way. Have fun changing the plugs. They are a bitch to get at. Make sure the car is cold before you start or you are going to get burns up to your shoulders :p Enjoy.
Welcome on board.
Engine oil, as above Castrol is good, you also have 76 oils as an option. This stuff in mineral.
Plugs, 7\'s can be hard to get hold of, so just use 9\'s alround. You wont have any problems with it, loads of people runs like it.
Trans oil, yeap Redline is good, along with Motul.
Oils are a personnal choice, which comes over time. ;)
Fish
I\'m sure I was told to avoid Castrol Magnatec, something about it destroying the oil seals.
I use GTX 10/40 ("For Modern Engines" on the pack) and NGK 9\'s all round.
Just change the oil and filter every 1500 - 3000 miles and it will be fine.
Welcome to the fold, enjoy the car, unless you are very lucky (ie. Rich), it\'s probably the best all round sports car you can own.
Richard
Thanks for all your advice, thats a great help.
cheers.
Phil:)
i have heard that castrol mineral is not quite so freindly to the oil seals..id use some valvoline turbov 10w40 mineral..thesedays i think castrol must have some sort of contract with every motor parts trader in the uk cus that is the only oil i seem to come across.
its the additives they put in the mineral oil that eats the seals, does not happen with fully synthetic. Some have more additives than others.
i run sheep crap that says sutable for turbochared engines as for plugs i have 9s all around and i aint chaging dif oil ever again coz it smells like cat piss now that u mention it i might aswell re do the tranny oil when we are fixing the clutch. like they guys say carfull with the plugs if u want il send u a picture of my nuckles :P
I\'ve always been intrigued by the oil seal eating- and unclean buring-arguements...I guess Mazda did their research though!
Personally I\'d rather use a decent synthetic and see what happens - although I appreciate that may sound a bit of a rash thing to say/do, and I\'m certainly not suggesting any one else do it. I\'ve always believed in using good oil in high performance motors. Considering the output and revving of the Rotary the best lube seems sensible, if compromising other bits? What about non-mazda oil seals? does that dispense with the problem?
Any rotary I own (pointing out at this point that it will never be \'stock\'!) will run a full synthetic in the sump and 2 stroke in the tank or may be injected - altho I think adding it at the pump would be the safer option for some one as forgetful as me!
EDIT: What do engine builders run in their \'high performance\' engines?
Can\'t understand why people find changing the plugs so difficult. Just pick the bitch up and go in from underneath (ahem). Much easier than trying to reach down from the top of the engine. I changed mine in about 5 minutes.