Evening all
I’ve started a Build thread which is about 6 months late but I need some advice .
Greddy manifold has warped slightly so it in the shop getting flatted out . Next stop new manifold gasket and a friend who’s car the ramp on says try these
“U need exhaust studs and nuts. Inconel. M10 x 1.5. They may even sell, inconel studs with copper nuts, which is fine.â€
Or better still are the RX7 any better ??
Help and advice please
Wayne
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The warping will not have anything to do with the way the manifold was bolted on, so the standard studs and nuts will not be a problem with your nice flat manifold :)
Quote from: clive on August 13, 2019, 08:16:49 AM
The warping will not have anything to do with the way the manifold was bolted on, so the standard studs and nuts will not be a problem with your nice flat manifold :)
Thanks Clive
Are they the same on an RX7 ?
The nuts on the manifold studs weren’t the correct Mazda ones so that was probably the fault .
Wayne
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I was expecting a fine pitch of 1.25 on jap cars Wayne. When i done the rx7 i replaced all the studs and nuts.
I found various ebay sellers and bought from there. All inconel and i used the nuts with the split in the top that self lock. I also got some copper nuts but didnt use them as the split nut looked far superior...ill get the correct name an piccy in amo.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-M8-AEROTIGHT-NUT-AERO-NUT-LOCK-NUT-X-10-MOTORCYCLES-CARS-ETC/152566447541?hash=item2385ab3db5:g:FTgAAOSwHMJYGgrN
aero nuts are what i used bud...cant remember the pitch to be honest...But as Clives says its the heat that warps any mounting flanges...hence why i turned my boost down...as the blow on my turbos was flange warpage. Has it warped since mapping? or warped before?
other option is double nutting?
Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 08:45:58 AM
I was expecting a fine pitch of 1.25 on jap cars Wayne. When i done the rx7 i replaced all the studs and nuts.
I found various ebay sellers and bought from there. All inconel and i used the nuts with the split in the top that self lock. I also got some copper nuts but didnt use them as the split nut looked far superior...ill get the correct name an piccy in amo.
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Thanks Jon
You could be right on the pitch , it was a guess from my mate . I should have checked when I got home as I have some spare on the bench .
I know the inconel are expensive but removing the manifold is a pig of a job with a turbo mounted on top with all relevant hoses and pipes in the way . I’d rather spend the extra Money and will probably but a new exhaust gasket too as it’ll be up on my mates two poster for at least a week
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Yep i agree...when mine was off replaced all studs n nuts and been fine since. Dont use any exhaust paste...dont what that going through your turbo...
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So are we on the swap over to the red beast?
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 09:34:14 AM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-M8-AEROTIGHT-NUT-AERO-NUT-LOCK-NUT-X-10-MOTORCYCLES-CARS-ETC/152566447541?hash=item2385ab3db5:g:FTgAAOSwHMJYGgrN
aero nuts are what i used bud...cant remember the pitch to be honest...But as Clives says its the heat that warps any mounting flanges...hence why i turned my boost down...as the blow on my turbos was flange warpage. Has it warped since mapping? or warped before?
other option is double nutting?
Thanks Jon
I’ll see if I can get the pitch found out now . This one is a car I bought half built so havnt touched the turbo or manifold .which is probably the only nut and bolts I havent checked and had to tighten or change .given it was the wrong nuts on there and the state of the manifold gasket I’d say it’s been blowing a while . Pip mapped it and I managed around 15 laps over two easy sessions . We noticed the noise when I started it for the third stint , tightened the nuts / bolts we could reach , which weren’t very tight . Still blowing a little so on the trailer it went(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/35e8746b40e854f97c94a1728e462c8b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/ad492d34d0f9d5445f2ace600e0c80fb.jpg)
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Yep thats how my twins went... i used an angle grinder with a flap wheel on those old turbos i had to get a flat mating surface...been changed since.
Since got them perfect on a belt sander we have at work...as no way to bolt down on mill.
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That manifold critical to the turbo kit...have a google state side as im sure your not the only 1 to suffer this and a solution.
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 09:49:04 AM
So are we on the swap over to the red beast?
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Ha ha I honestly havnt got a clue , this one is pretty much same spec except for jap speed rear arms and super pro front bushes which the red one has . The red one has been faultless for 5 years tho the engine is getting tired . https://www.flickr.com/photos/opentrack-track-days/48447192851/in/album-72157710074532097
So if this all works out with the blue one I’m tempted to stick a V8 in the red one
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 09:49:04 AM
So are we on the swap over to the red beast?
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Ha ha I honestly havnt got a clue , this one is pretty much same spec except for jap speed rear arms and super pro front bushes which the red one has . The red one has been faultless for 5 years tho the engine is getting tired . https://www.flickr.com/photos/opentrack-track-days/48447192851/in/album-72157710074532097
So if this all works out with the blue one I’m tempted to stick a V8 in the red one
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 10:00:29 AM
That manifold critical to the turbo kit...have a google state side as im sure your not the only 1 to suffer this and a solution.
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It’s in being skimmed , no more than 3 mm I hope . It’s 13 mm before skimming
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Cool...your water and oil lines on flexy lines i hope?
V8?



lol
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 10:07:25 AM
Cool...your water and oil lines on flexy lines i hope?
V8? 

lol
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Yeah water and oil are on flexi’s
I do apologise for the bad language and I’ll wash my mouth out immediately . I’d love a7 engine in one but they are so pricey . When I bought the first Greddy kit I had an option of the 7 engine . I was told steer clear it’s a money pit .......
That all are , Hindsight eh ......
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Having owned and run a Small Block Chevy in my truck, you can easily spend the same amount of money at a decent V8 compared to the 7 engines on Racing Beat Europe site.
I don't want to speak out of turn because I haven't driven a rotary, but what ive heard it seems that the power delivery between the 2 will be poles apart.
Its just instant go....... flat torque curves.... the torque was addictive but it was "lazy" redlining at 4500....
Jap performance had a rebuilt rew running in a car with ALL ancillaries for £2500...i rang up but somebody got there b4 me. Mega cheap that...
Rew all the way Wayne...520hp?
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Quote from: boosted on August 13, 2019, 10:40:53 AM
Jap performance had a rebuilt rew running in a car with ALL ancillaries for £2500...i rang up but somebody got there b4 me. Mega cheap that...
Rew all the way Wayne...520hp?
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Wow that is cheap
I wouldnt make one lap with 400 bhp lol
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My SBC was only mild tune around 325hp and around 360 ftlbs
the worst thing about them is the sheer weight, I think one of those would upset the handling and balance of the car dramatically.
Back to manifold bolts
I’ve also posted on RX8OC so I’m
Sorry for the duplicate
Looking on Neil’s spare engine I’ve got
It has 10 mm 1.5 pitch on the outers and 1.25 pitch on the inner . Is this right ? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/96447b045079a9aa931cb31e996a7813.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/99e5fea843c42f24a0fe9d324a4fbc16.jpg)
Is this right ? Bit of a ball ache to source .....
Help please
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I dont know mate...seems rather strange to have 2 different pitches...id go with 1.25 personally.
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Quote from: boosted on August 14, 2019, 10:45:39 AM
I dont know mate...seems rather strange to have 2 different pitches...id go with 1.25 personally.
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It’s weird , just the centre top stud is 1.25
The rest are 1.5 pitch
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