Mazda Rotary Club

Hi all,
Its been at least a year since I last posted an update, so now winter is upon us, I've started further mods to the FD. Daft time to start really as the FD lives in a garage and there's no room to work on it, so all work is carried out on the drive, in all weathers.

So my R888 were looking tired, so I got some new one's (backs at the mo, fronts will follow).

Rightly or wrongly I've decided to ditch the power steering for manual, (I know I may regret it, but as the FD is used mainly on track, I'll give it a try).
Few pictures of the racks. Total weight saving removing pump, bracket pipework etc; 6kg.

As the garage doors and frame only provide 2" gap either side to the FD, I keep catching the canards pushing the FD in and out sometimes. Roll up garage door is on order which will eliminate the door frames, giving me another 2" either side, so I figured I'd better make some straight canards. Also painted the part of the splitter that's on show.

Only have basic hand tools, so cut the main shape with tin snips and cleaned with files. Cut the apertures with an angle grinder and slitting wheel (that was tense).

Spent this weekend relocating the alternator from its usual position to the space previously occupied by the PS Pump. Bought the bracket to relocate the alternator from Aus and expected it to be 'fit and forget'. Wrong !

Oil pipe restricted the bracket fitting at first, so I heated the pipe a little and bent it enough for the bracket to fit flush to the engine.

Next problem, pulley's did not align when alternator was fitted. I had an old pulley in the garage, so with that pulley, the offset was 5mm. Had to cut 5mm off the back of the mounting bracket and fitted a 5 mm spacer to take up the gap at the front.

All was well, pulley's aligned. Sorted. Well not quite, fitted the belt and noticed it caught on the oil pipe bracket !! Had to modify the bracket to allow belt to flex a little without catching the bracket.

So after enduring a weekend of freezing temperatures, hail stone showers and constant rain, I completed it.
   

Well done Chris, or should I say Popeye once you start turning that steering ;)

Great to hear about your work on the FD Chris  :)

Yes, quite interesting that you desided to get rid off power steering... But maybe it will be ok... :)

Btw, when your engine has been servised? Looks dirty and seems like it has been there a while now ;)

But looks good, good job :)

i think youll be fine once you start moving you wont notice the heavy steering atall. mine has no pas and drive to mot and back was fine.

last timer a saw you at Gaydon  John you did have arms like Duane "The Rock" Johnson.

Lol yes the Westory has no pas and 888s problem with that car is the steering wheel is about the size of dinner plate and flat bottomed...but again dont noticed on the move and what you find yourself doing naturally when stopping is pointing the wheels ready for the off. I think feel and feedback on track will outshine the negs on road. Dont swap back til you been on track Chris.

That's what I'm hoping Jon. Don't use the FD much on the road, so I look forward to trying it on track.

Looks like good progress :) That bracket doesn't do you any favor does it !

Shaun

Nice work buddy I like the idea of moving alternator
You can see more of the engine.

So this weekends activities; Bought a Davies Craig EWP and Controller. Take some of the strain off the engine driving belts around etc. Should be worth at least 1bhp extra  ;D.

I also contemplated the 'state' of the visible part of the engine (not up to my usual standard). So cleaned and painted.

Still have a bit of work to do routing the new water hoses etc, but it'll be a better layout when its finished.

Also bought a bigger catch/swirl tank.

Nice :)

Some good progress.

Shaun

some Nice Fabrication work there Chris and winter jobs coming along well like the mods  ;)

Well didn't get much done last weekend, (too cold)  ???

Made a lot of progress this weekend, managed to finalise the routing of all hoses and brackets etc.

Needed to provide a route for any air bubbles to rise to the expansion bottle. So tapped in to the T piece which routes the return flow from the block, and the heater.

New Expansion Tank is much bigger than the tank from the stock set up.

Difficult finding a substantial mounting point without adding more bracing etc. So bit of thinking and came up with a revised bracket design which is stiff enough to hold the weight and utilises the stainless steel support bracket for the IC.

Like the thought of the bracket for the tank and it looks cosmetically good as well  :13: nice one Chris

Direct wired the pump to purge the water system of air. Ran it for 10 minutes, seemed a constant flow in the return to the tank.

Re-connected the digital controller and checked the pump was getting a pulse signal. Phew.

So do they run with a thermostat? Or remove and then pump fires up at a set temp?

Hi Jon, Thermostat is removed and pump is controlled by digital controller at set temperatures.

It only pulses pump running until set temp is reached (I still have to select the temp stages), it switches to full power (constant running) when the water reaches around set temp. Fans will be set to come on around 3 degrees over optimum temp.

Oh and it looks pretty cool on the dash too  ;D

Done any more work on her Chris or is she fully up and running now, ??

Looks like some good progress :)

Shaun

So, after removing the Alternator (rumbly bearings). Decided there was no point finishing off the engine bay 'till the alternator is refurbished.

Been thinking of extending the areo at the back, so decided now was the time to experiment.

Only have basic hand tools. Made templates in card first then transferred to aluminium sheet.

Took a bit of time to cut out the basic shapes, a few pics of how the mock up looks on the N/S.

 :bravo_2: :c029: :08: looking good I Chris. I am doing something of the like as well but not brave enough to post it up just yet ;)

Wow... Looking good :)

That upper wing, how is it attached to body? I cant quite see that :)

Quote from: re japi on March 01, 2016, 05:18:24 AM
Wow... Looking good :)

That upper wing, how is it attached to body? I cant quite see that :)

Good question. I want to avoid putting holes in the side of the body, so the challenge has been to design a fitment that supports itself from the existing diffuser, (not easy with the overhang of the side extensions).

So the design utilises structural mounting points from the underside of the body for the main construction. The upper wing is attached to the side upright, plus bolts to the upper part of the diffuser at the back and I had to concede and will use one mounting hole on the inner wing (so the whole construction requires one extra hole.

The mock up still requires considerable fettling to produce a nice flowing system that will be functional without being too obtrusive.  :)) But I like obtrusive !!!

Ok, good idea. And good job :)

Took the Alternator to a local company specialising in refurbishing Alternators (first sensible decision I've made this year  :D). Fearing the worse, but what a surprise, no sucking thru' his teeth and shaking of his head. He just said yup bearings have had it, that'll be about £40. Oh I said can you check the output and if its a bit low do a full refurb. He replied, well there's not much more stripping down to do, so a full refurb with brushes etc will be ......well lets say £50 !!!!
Errr yes I said that'll do nicely  ???  ;D happy days.

Collected Alternator last night, rear bearing fell apart when he split the casing...ooops  ???

Charging checked and confirmed correct output. Rebuild costs £40 !!!

Alternator refitted last night, but now I've noticed the adjustment bracket is touching the chassis  :angry5: More mods required, one step forward.....

Shorter belt?

Unfortunately not Jon, adjustment bracket was too long to start with and needed 6mm taking off one end. Thought that was sufficient 'till I looked from a different angle last night and noticed it was resting on the chassis. Cannot raise it up as the locating slot matches with the alternator bracket.
Not a big problem, just a set back.

Bit of progress made over the last weekends.

Completed the EWP installation, but had a silly minor leak from the lowest hose T piece  :angry5: managed to remove and refit without removing the IC and pipework, but it took an hour of swearing  :angry5:

I had a dilemma as I did not have a method of knowing when the coolant system over pressurised. Listening to Clive and the 'old school racer' methods of providing a visual indication of over flow from the system, I came up with a method in the pictures. In simple terms if the over flow tank pressurises and over flows the overflow will appear through the bonnet vent.

Also fitted some heat management around the turbo to protect the UIM and Brake Cylinder.

Also decided more weight saving was necessary as I'd been on the 'pies'  :))

Bought some new seats (made to specific dimensions) by JK Composites. Each Seat weight in at 5kg, compared to my existing seats at 15kgs each.

Quality is fantastic and they feel pretty comfortable with the basic padding, time will tell. Just have to adjust the runners etc to suit my required driving position.

Wow,they really are a work of art, they will not only lose weight but you will find a huge difference on track due to not sliding around in the seat meaning you will feel much more in control.

Thanks Clive,
Yeh seats luvly and comfortable, well while I hop in and out trying to achieve my driving position.

Took the FD for a drive on Sunday, interesting that with the stock water pump set up it reached 80 deg C by the time I arrived at my local Shell station (about 2 miles away from home) setting off with a clap cold engine.

With the EWP it only achieved 60 deg C and even after a few laps of the local industrial estate to bed in the new rear pads, it had only reached 70 deg C.

The EWP Controller is set up to pulse the pump running (intermittent) up to 80 deg C instead of it running flat out, but that still seems too efficient.

Will have to monitor it on a longer journey.

Quote from: C J R on March 22, 2016, 07:59:29 AM
Also decided more weight saving was necessary as I'd been on the 'pies'  :))

Bought some new seats (made to specific dimensions) by JK Composites. Each Seat weight in at 5kg, compared to my existing seats at 15kgs each.

Quality is fantastic and they feel pretty comfortable with the basic padding, time will tell. Just have to adjust the runners etc to suit my required driving position.

Wow, they look good! :) I was wondering about are they comfortable too :)

They feel comfortable so far, but I'm not spending much time in the car. I'll know later after a longer journey.

I had similar seats in a Lotus 7 type hill climb car that I used on the road, they were fine for 2 hour journey's, so I expect these should be the same or better.

Very nice build. And the attention to detail is amazing! Taking the extra time to do things properly really makes all the difference.  Keep up the good work!

Finished off the extension to the rear diffuser this weekend. Really pleased with how it all blends together. Just the front splitter and carards to finish and fit.
Even managed to include some gourney flaps

Nice work  :)

Do the tyres in the boot, propping up the hatch, make a big difference to the aero  ;) :)

Quote from: Casey on March 29, 2016, 12:57:47 PM
Nice work  :)

Do the tyres in the boot, propping up the hatch, make a big difference to the aero  ;) :)

:)) :)) :)) mega down force driving with the hatch open....don't offer much added weight though.. ::)

Yes, looks good. Good work :)

Bit of an update. Met a guy in Long Beach at the Indy Car Races who sells Tyre Stickers, (or tire stickers in your in the USA). What you may exclaim !!
So, instead of painting the lettering on tyres (race style), he produces various graphics in rubber which is thin enough to bond to a tyre sidewall. Not to everyone's taste I know, but I like the effect.

So sticker's turned up in the post with simple instructions and a container of adhesive.

Took me a couple of hours to do all four Toyos.

If anyone is interested here's his contact details; Jason@tirestickers.com

For those of you at Japfest Silverstone, you will know I suffered an annoying coolant problem which affected my ability on track. Basically I had coolant overflow on boost.

Clive and Jon mucked in and tried to provide a solution on the stand, but we just couldn't get the coolant to stay in the system. To everyone else who offered advice and help. Thank you.
Jon spotted that my rad cap was too short (replacement on order) and later Clive identified a coolant pipe at the back of the block which was capped off as its redundant. Unfortunately I missed this pipe when I refilled the coolant system, which resulted in an air lock at the system, (picture of the pipe).

So, that problem is solved by running a new pipe of hose to join in to the coolant feed back in to the rad.

When I fitted the EWP and associated pipework, the Oil cooler pipes clashed. So new hoses purchased and fitted.
Old hoses were a real pita to remove. But it's worth it.

My inner wing plastics are well worn in places where the tyres have rubbed on full lock.

Just noticed the near side was rubbing more with the brand new Toyo R888 (235/40 18 side wall compared to 235/35 18). Couldn't push the plastic any further out of the way due to the wash water bottle. So removed the water bottle which gave the tyre plenty of clearance. But what to do about windscreen wash.

Remembered I'd removed the rear wash system some time ago, so I dropped the rear bottle in the gap under my Concept 7 headlight unit. Couple of simple brackets and we're back in business.
Not bothered about having to remove head light unit occasionally to top up the bottle. The car is used mainly on track and head lamp unit can be removed in less that 2 minutes.

Well sussed out to relocate the washer.

I'm presuming the old oil pipes came apart eventually.

Looking forward to watching the car perform on track at Japshow next week  8)

Clive, no the old pipes would not separate so I had to cut the flexible part to remove them from the coolers.

Bit more on the FD this weekend. Finally got round to fitting the new front discs and pads ready for Japday. (Thanks Clive for supplying).

Expected the bolts holding the discs to the bells to put up some resistance, but everything came apart real easy (happy days).

Went to bed in the new pads, local dual carriage way, not much traffic on a Sunday. Had plumbs of smoke coming off the fronts after bedding in and a few 'spirited' hard sessions.

Coolant system seems to have settled down after re-bleeding, managed a few light boost sessions and no overflow.

Few pictures of the discs and bells and one of the refitted assembly. 

All good news, well done  8)

Hi Chris we started discussing non power steering at Combe...whats your views? Im tempted to go back to power.

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Jon, I will keep the manual rack. I can put up with needing Hulk like biceps for low speed turns. The feel on track suits my needs.

Plus it saves about 7kg of weight  :))

Holy crap look at the size of the wiiiinnnng!! Are you doing passenger flights to a number of different countries

Car looks great as always!


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So, as some of you will know, I have experienced problems with my new coolant system since fitting the ewp. Most issues are now resolved and only an annoying drip still needed fixing.

The drip was sufficient to drain half of the expansion bottle whilst the FD sat in the garage and I did not fancy leaving it for the rest of the year, knowing I have a few more track sessions booked.

The culprit was identified as the connection I added to a T piece (see picture). To replace this connection required a different method of connecting various water pipes, one from the heater return to rad and one from the back of the engine to the rad.

Pulled together some new silicon connection pieces, cut to suit and plumbed in this weekend. So for all good !!  :13:

Looks very neat Chris, hope you are leak free now

Ive always wondered if those self sealing tee off things actually worked...think ill steer clear of them, glad it sorted. ;D

Next task is to manage oil fumes/blow from the oil filler.

Been buying bits......trying to fit a bigger oil catch tank somewhere in the engine bay and improve the venting.

Don't fancy removing the engine at the mo to weld in a vent to the front crank case cover, so whatever I come up with, it will be a compromise.

Pictures will follow.  ;)

As your single Chris cant you utlise the rear oil drain hole? Ideally as a vent and oil return from catch tank. Then whatever it blows it always returns?

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Yeh, good idea Jon, but I want to try keep crank pressure separate from oil return for now. Just in case it pushes pressure up in to the tank.

I'll try two tanks first the bigger new one (1 litre) and the original one (0.5 litre), both venting to atmosphere.

Parts have arrived, so just need to work out a location and mounting system, no room in engine bay on non turbo side !!! Will have to get creative.

Made some progress with the new oil catch tank. Went for a design with twin inlets and a vented cap. Finding a place for it in the engine bay was a problem, but settled on a space under the IC pipework where the original battery and fuse boxes were located. Designed an aluminium bracket to locate off the IC mounting which is St.St and solid, so it shares the load from the expansion tank.
Catch tank is pretty robust, but added another support bracket (for just in case).

Pictures attached;

Nice big of fabrication there Chris to fit in such a tight space  :)

Did someone not tell you Chris that you are supposed to use a Workmate to hold the item you are drilling, or cutting and, not to sculpt the working surface.  ;D

Quote from: rote8 on June 07, 2016, 08:07:30 PM
Did someone not tell you Chris that you are supposed to use a Workmate to hold the item you are drilling, or cutting and, not to sculpt the working surface.  ;D

Oooops, that's where I've gone wrong  ^-^ that's 20 years of missing the mark  ???

some nice work there Chris  ;)

Wow, good job Chris! Looks really good :)

Weather has been responsible for delaying finishing this little mod. Anyway as I was already wet from doing another job (read about it under Members Chit Chat)  ???
I managed to finish off the venting and pipework.

I already has a 1/4" BSPT elbow with a 10mm hose tail out of the top of the oil filler cap, but I wanted to increase the venting from this area, so I replaced it with a 3/8" BSPT elbow with a 12mm hose tail. I know this may mean more oil is blown out through this vent, but I'll see what happens.
Didn't have a 3/8 BSPT tap, so worked out the hole diameter using a crude stepped drill bit and managed to use the Brass thread to cut the thread in the plastic oil filler cap.

Clear hose used from the filler cap vent and silicone hosing from the side vents off the filler neck, one to the old catch tank, one to the new catch tank with the oil cap vent.

Went for a quick test...... :D FD's on boost are just addictive  :whoo:

Um, havent hear or read what happened to her...? Was it bad? :(

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No news yet. Replaced Land Rover Tow Vehicle with a slightly newer version.

Cannot find a decent sized trailer for reasonable money, but still looking.

Still arguing with Insurance over repair costs for the FD. So far they've offered to pay half the repair costs !!!! Think this year is a write off as far as using the FD again  :angry5:

Ok... Well, tow car is easy to replace. And trailer too. But your trailer was really good looking and I bet it was really expensive. Cause those kind of trailer are really expensive here too...

Do you have a list what you need to repair on FD? :/

Always when car is even slightly modified, insurance company wont pay, even thought they will wants you to pay "special car" price. Well, hopefully your fight is over soon and company pays. Then you can fully put your mind into rebuild... So, good luck Sir :)

Insurance company are con artists!   Just had a right battle getting my cars insured...been with 5 years....thats 5k theyve had from me.....the impreza was stinger....6 years ago i banged up the evo on black ice with 7 years claimfree b4 that.....took 4 months to agreement a settlement.
Stick to your guns Chris and literally ring them everyday i did with the evo and i sent them ads for cars for sale. Outcome was satifactory in the end i ended buying the car back and repairing and a few quid in the bank.

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So, fed up waiting for insurance to finalise an offer, so figured I might get the FD ready for the MOT Sprint at Blyton next Saturday. That was a daft idea !! Doh.

FD hasn't run since the accident, just pushed it in and out the garage.

Fixed a coolant drip (clip was crap) and thought I'd run the engine up to temp. All was well, ran for 10 minutes, just getting warmed through and was holding a tick over, so I thought I'd hop out the driver's seat and check if the coolant leak was cured now the system had pressure.
Oh I though, that's a lot of coolant on the drive, oh that's a bloo.y lot of coolant, but it smells like...... yup, PETROL.
Main petrol pipe had burst and I hadn't noticed. about 2 gallons of Shells finest spread under the FD and running down the drive to the garage.

Thankfully I had a bag of sand and after a few swift minutes of chucking it all over the drive, the worst of what could happen was averted.

Traced the problem to the rubber hose that comes from the filter, completely cracked all over.

New bit of pipe fitted today and Engine run up to temp ok and the petrol, well its an FD so most of it went out the exhaust  :))

Will your bad luck change Soon I hope so, cant understand your insurance taking so long... After my crunch almost two years ago they where on the ball from the off they let Clive order all my new parts and any that i could get from Mazda Direct they let Coventry do that then paid me to sort out the spray shop and build then they paid me an hourly rate to fix it ...... I think there dragging their  feet a little.  HOPE things change for the better soon Chris ;)

You'll get it all sorted !

Shaun

Any new yet Chris on the Insurance sorting you out any news on the rebuild......???

Yes they finally came up with a better cash offer. Still not enough to cover the full repair costs, but I'm fed up waiting, so I've accepted.

Still not in the right mental state to decide what to do next, the whole process has really made me think differently.

Do I rebuild, or cut my losses and part it out.

Rebuild  :), better even than before (if that's possible!).

Good to see you at Blyton Chris, and pleased to see your car running on track again. I hope your journey home was without incident.

Well, they are scammers. But glad to hear your fight is finally over...

I suggest that you take little time out, and think about what you want to do...

But the truth is that you have done so much work and modifications to that beast, that parting it out will newer cut your loses. And you know that I love that car, so if you brake it apart, I will be really pissed off ;)

So, its been a while  ??? I know, I'm getting old and prefer to stay inside where its warm. Anyhooo decided it was time to make a bit of progress with the FD for 2017.

Before getting into some serious stuff, I had Pip at WGT give the engine a quick review. Alarmingly he discovered that whilst it is way too rich at the bottom and middle range (ha anyone who has followed me can testify to that  :P), it leaned out significantly at the top end  :eek: Phew saved an engine.
So we know the fuel system is good, and the injectors are big enough 850's and 1680's, so it must be the 'stuff' delivering the fuel.
Whipped out the in tank 044 to discover it had vibrated down on its hanger and the filter (sock) was squashed against the bottom of the fuel baffle. Couple of jubilee clips later and a few measurements meant that was fixed.
Next the fuel filter. This was changed for an aftermarket high flow filter when the Diff was changed about 3 years ago. Unfortunately it was mounted in the stock position above the diff.
With the help of Clive's Very long Pliers I managed to remove the filter without removing the diff.
Filter was pretty gungy, so that would also contribute the starving the injectors.
New filter and housing fitted and off back to Pip's to see the results.

I'm with you on the getting old and keeping warm front. Glad you have gone some way to identifying the problem, lean at the top end not good me thinks. Need to see you back out on track sometime soon. I will get a neck brace for next time I passenger with you, that and tighten the harness to stop myself sliding into the footwell.

Looks like some good progress :)

Know what you mean and this cold weather, FD needs some love when it finally gets warmer !

Shaun

Quote from: rote8 on February 06, 2017, 08:45:07 AM
I'm with you on the getting old and keeping warm front. Glad you have gone some way to identifying the problem, lean at the top end not good me thinks. Need to see you back out on track sometime soon. I will get a neck brace for next time I passenger with you, that and tighten the harness to stop myself sliding into the footwell.

Your welcome in the hot seat anytime. Hope to have a bit more power to show you now the map is being 'cleaned up'. It already revs crisper. Cannot wait for the top end to be finished  :P

Quote from: shaunwil on February 06, 2017, 12:43:08 PM
Looks like some good progress :)

Know what you mean and this cold weather, FD needs some love when it finally gets warmer !

Shaun

Looking forward to seeing yours finally Shaun, it looks like a work of art !

Still got a ground issue with the ecu that needs solving when the weather gets better, but I look forward to actually showing the hard work off at some point !

Shaun

Glad you found that issue Chris, and good to know it's being sorted. I know what you mean about the cold weather. I had plans for some work on both KIMI's at this time, but just can't face it under it gets a little warmer.

Shaun - hoping to see you and your FD sometime this year, it's been ages since I last saw you!

Tell me about it, been 18 months since I did a trackday !

Shaun

You guys need to invest in some cycling long johns under your work clothes ive been wearing them out side and in the garage really takes the edge off.

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Quote from: C J R on February 06, 2017, 12:50:21 PMHope to have a bit more power to show you :P

I'll get a compression suit then.  :)

Ok, here we go again! ;) You dont need long jons there, you simply dont have cold weather! As Im writing this, we have -20C. Saturday I was on frozen lake racing my Opel, I only had "sweatpants" and it was about -5c then :D

Anyhow, good thing that you noticed that engine was running too lean, and no harm was done...

Hopefully I can see your beast running again this year, I just love that car

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Hey Chris glad yours is coming a long and glad to see the mapping is getting sorted as that could have been a bit of a downer as you got the old girl back on the road only to find the engine had tanked on the first outing and I know what you mean about the cold and none heated garages it can have your Nuts get over tight  >:D looking good man

So guys, went back to WGT for Pip to continue sorting out the over fuelling in the map.

Thanks to spotting it leaning out at the top range at the last session, he saved the engine. Today's mapping session confirmed the pump slipping down on the bracket was responsible for starving the injectors, so Pip finished refining the map.

We all know Pip has a safe approach to mapping rotary's, so I had no reservations letting him loose. Numerous repeatable runs prove the quality of the build.

To give the engine bit of a reprieve we agreed to only run the boost to 1.1 bar, the results, well see the graph  :D 521fwhp and 384 lbft torque!

Sounds much crisper and is much more responsive, so looking forward to using it on track and a few road trips this year (after three outings last year).

 :) Great result Chris. Looking forward to seeing you at a trackday soon.

flippin eck... ;D

Excellent news, pleased for you  :)

well done Chis not that i am  green but pales my 370 Bhp into insignificance  ;) ;) so glad you got her up and running

Wow! Damn. Torque kicks in 3000rpm and there is lots of that, 520NM! Finally you told us what kind of grunt your beast has, I have tryed to get that info about 4-5 years now ;)

And horses comes in quite low rpms too. Those are really nice power and torque curves! And only in 1,1 bar...

I just frickin love that car! :D

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Btw, can I share that pic to stupid boinker and V8 fans, just for show off what 1,3 litre can do, terms of torgue? ;)

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So, getting pretty frustrated at the mo ! FD needs bodywork and respray after the accident damage last year. Took car to a body shop to look at. He gave a quote and said he'd be ready to accept the car end Feb.
Just called, he doesn't want the job now, too much work to fit skirts and rear bumper and paint to show standard !

Called another body shop who has worked on the FD in the past, he's not sure whether he wants to do the job !

What's going on...does everyone want easy insurance repair jobs ?

At least it gives me time to decide what 'look' I want for 2017. Thinking no spoilers, no canards, just sleek sexy FD style. But will it stay on the road ?

If you get stuck Chris my mate will do it and it will be perfect but quite a distance from you but could drop off after Japday?

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Back to standard looking , wow, this car would be one hell of a sleeper  :D

BTW, sleeper ( a wolf in sheep's clothing) 

Quote from: C J R on February 11, 2017, 05:52:54 PM
So guys, went back to WGT for Pip to continue sorting out the over fuelling in the map.

Thanks to spotting it leaning out at the top range at the last session, he saved the engine. Today's mapping session confirmed the pump slipping down on the bracket was responsible for starving the injectors, so Pip finished refining the map.

We all know Pip has a safe approach to mapping rotary's, so I had no reservations letting him loose. Numerous repeatable runs prove the quality of the build.

To give the engine bit of a reprieve we agreed to only run the boost to 1.1 bar, the results, well see the graph  :D 521fwhp and 384 lbft torque!

Sounds much crisper and is much more responsive, so looking forward to using it on track and a few road trips this year (after three outings last year).

What porting have you got? And turbo?


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I know the answers.
1. Big . 2. Big.


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