i will update my build thread with more details but i went to collect the car for the second time yesterday and was stopped by cooling issues.
the engine was reaching temp quick and then ecu shutting it down due to temp failsafes we put in,
we discovered a faulty thermostat so removed that (midnight no replacements) so then we expected good flow but nothing,
filler point was getting red hot, getting pressure but only half the rad was getting hot,
removed rad pipes and lots of pressure but no flow again so we manually blew through and water flowed cleanly so not blocked, same blowing manually through water housing, water flowed clean and well.
only thing we can think of is the water pump which i remember being metal bladed and on a shaft so surely that cant fail?
also i had fitted a air pump removal underdrive pulley, so we also maybe have a underspeed / overspeed cavitation issue but i cannot see how that would be possible as we was taking the car from idle to 4k and was doing the same no matter what point in rev range.
anyone have any ideas???
set up is
massive rad amongst the size i have never seen before,
dm underdrive pulleys,
stock water pump,
that new combined ast filler
and a good running engine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/218DD5AB-E6E9-43E6-B591-B59DCB658F5E_zpsthc0pgyz.jpg)
Mmm..
Off the top of my head.
Hose sucked flat impending flow .
Airlock. Put heater control to max heat. Burp all the pipes.
Plumbing orientation issue due to new ast set up.
Possible water pump i suppose...half the rad getting hot suggests no flow and heat convection.
Can you pressure system with a garden hose ?
goona have to check that waterpump for sanity!
yeah seems to be the general concensus that or it just hates me and it needs to burn
I know the feeling mate... then all of a sudden all sorted and low turns to an almighty high! :))
people have been telling me that for 3 years now the closer you get the worse it is
just stay away from the hammer ......i had 1 in my hands a week or so ago and my blood was boiling and i very nearly hit mine lol....
like a kid with an airfix part stuck on your finger 1 second of rage no more spitfire lol smashed a few as a kid!
that water pump gotta be checked....and id pressurize with garden hose to force all air out.
seriously though my boss just got his ducati back after 3 weeks at a specialist .....done a head stock bearing, geo tune up, etc and the garage didnt even test ride it he went off down the road and forks where wobbling! gotta do the checks before taking away.
you dont wanna find these issues on way home.
Mickey,
To try and help, could you show us exactly how the main pipes are plumbed in, maybe with more pictures as I am puzzled why the main pipe ringed below just goes straight downwards, where is this connected and do you have anything else plumbed off of this ?
that hard pipe goes straight down to the radiator, there is a side spur that goes to overflow tank rad then comes out and goes into the block, the rest i cannot remember i will have to check with the guys tomorow.
So behind the alloy ast tank....is the standard filler neck behind that?
I would say the spur pipe causing lots of issues where its coming off the top hose .
I personally would bolt the stock filler neck assembly back on and then fit the spur pipe that comes out the front of the casting off to the tank, this will also give a much better flow into the top of the radiator as it must be like a big swan neck back up into the radiator
hope this helps
this is whats fitted, and yes i will try the stock filler for sure, after testing the pump somehow
http://www.topgearstockport.co.uk/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-categories-listing/product/1455-tgs-rx7-ast-delete-water-expansion-tank-fd3s
Hi mate, there uk based just give a ring hopefully summit simples. Looks very smart though.
Try burping the top of the rad by loosing the top hose off too, could be an air lock in the top of the radiator.
Shaun
just received another e-mail off them and im getting sick of it now, tempted to just tell them to stick it and take it to jaydee/pip or anyone that will actually figure this out
apparently the water pump looks fine, but they are noticing trace amounts of blue stuff in the water i think it could be just elements of sealant from the engine build but i dont know, it shouldnt be tape as i only taped up pipe ends before taking it to them and that was green tape.
only logical steps now i can think of is running a hose through the block to check its not obstructed and checking each and every coolant joint for blockages after that it HAS to be air lock
In 1 of your photos the bottom rad hose had a kink in it but a mechanics hand was at the rad end? so i discounted it as thought during fitting photo.
Pressurise with water pressure from a garden hose. fill that rad manually with the hose. coolant can be added later on.
Right guys the problem has been solved but has introduced another problem! Story of my life, we cleared the air block by using a old fuel pump to push water into the system with some grunt rather than gravity and that worked perfect.
Stable temps around 70-90 dependant on time running etc BUT that was on a high idle when we tried to introduce a idle of 300 less so 1000rpm the temps just kept rising, but with a blip or two of the throttle the temp drops right back down. Now we are sure this is because we are running a underdrive pulley and such a big rad which the stock water pump just can't flow on slow idle so that leaves us in a position.
These are the options I see
Can either run at 1300 rpm and do my tree in at every traffic light or stop.
Replace the rad with something smaller and settle for a slightly higher running temp
Or
Jncorporate some kind of inline electric water pump to aid flow with a bypass or find a oe for electric water pump for he Fd which I don't think exists.
What say you guys
Clives got David Craig electric waterpump on his car....fd block....id wait and see for Clive to come along....
Yes, really happy with the electric pump, but I feel for you it would just be trying to get around a problem as its still probably poor flow with that weird top hose header tanky thing that's giving you grief.
It could well be that even with the electric pump you would still have the same problem if the system cant flow :(.
Personally I don't like, and have never run under drive pulleys as the last thing you need on a hot day is a water pump running slow ???
As for power increase, years ago we had Performance Ford borrow the ramp for a back to back, stock verse underdrive pullys on a standard Focus
Rolling road showed a 2 bhp drop at the wheels :D
I totally agree and I am in the process of sourcing a good condition standard size pulley/ belt and tensioner as I have air pump and OMP delete