right then guys, i am in the process of doing my rebuild as most of you know.
but i have a few questions on my wiring which i appreciate i am making bloody awkward, so as simply and quickly as i can heres my problems
first things first this is my plan for my battery relocation and power loom rewire. please highlight anything i may have missed or havent thought of.
sorry for the crudity of the diagram. but it makes the point
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F3B584B9-02E1-4261-96D6-109CABA26A15_zpsekhonxid.jpg)
also on the standard loom on the positive battery post is a box of 5 fuses/relays from what i can gether these supply power and fuse things on the front horseshoe loom so things like fans and lights etc,even fuel pump most of which i have deleted or have standalone. so do i HAVE to have this here still or is there a better method, i was thinking of a aftermarket fuse block / relay block wired in with what i need. or do i have to keep the standard stuff. again suggestions / inspiration welcome
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6119D80D-DA5E-4D53-9215-2C2794112092_zpsanv5fu12.jpg)
then there is this doozy.coils and such will be covered by the haltech but there are things the haltech doesnt cover, things like alternator charging system etc.
i have simplified this loom to this point but if anyone can fill in the gaps i have that would be awesome,
i can remake this loom also but would like to get rid of everything that is not necessary.
loom one and loom two are actually the connectors from the fuse block / diagnosis port into front horseshoe
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8DF2AA97-20D8-45B9-942A-0A8F3359C4A3_zpsqxwhdf6q.jpg)
so any help is welcome also inspirsation, give me pictures or details of what you did, i dont want to go to the level of in cab breakers on induvidual circuits but im sure you can see the way i have been going
Has the whole of the horse-shoe loom gone completely ?
I'm not even sure where to start. Took me forever to do my wiring trying to figure everything out. I didn't have any of the original wiring at all though !
Shaun
Gotta agree with Shaun. Massive task to rewire car for wipers lights etc. Engine loom awesome idea for reliabilty but as you have original loom for lights switches etc i would personally reuse.
the original horseshoe loom is staying i am on about the loom that connects straight to the positive and powers the alternator / starter / coils and also has the control for these and connects to the horsehoe via the two plugs its a mini power loom with a few signal wires in there
Ah ok. Drawing looks fine are you going to relocate battery to boot?
I ran a long time with a positive running back to the fuse box and and the negative running back to the original point where the engine was ground. Didn't have much issues really.
Shaun
i am in two minds right now, i was going to just run +ive to the front and ground out -ive to the body in the boot.
i am also contemplating running the -ive to a busbar in the bonnet area and then running all my grounds to that. i will have to wait and see what others say, i want it to be the best possible for the road
I did that originally then felt the ground wasn't strong enough so ran it back to the original place to where the battery sat. Ran like that for about 3+yrs
There is a good ground next to the passenger door rear where quite a few things are ground (rear window de-mist is one). Easy to run a cable down from the boot.
When I measured the current on the starter the loop gauge showed a max of 370amps ! I have it running on a dedicated 4 gauge feed with a slow blow 200 amp fuse. When I had it going in to the engine bay I used x2 4 gauge cable to the fuse box.
Shaun
yeah i dont want to be running 0 gauge anywhere, i am running 4 gauge on the shorter runs and high ampage etc but +ive and -ive from battery to front i am thinking high quality 4 gauge maybe even 2 gauge for protection.
plus running 2 chunky wires back to front might be a bit space consuming, halfway down with take offs could work