Heya! I had my car working for a good while, then I cleaned in the engine bay, zipties and whatnot, and after that, I nicked something, because I started to get knocking again, like when my trailing coils were out of operation.
Also I can\'t control the boost at all. It goes to 1.2 bar without the boost solenoid connected to power, which means it is closed (tested).
As for my ignition, which I think is the culprit here, it is for some reason around 10-20 degrees early (to the left of the mark on the "block")when I set it at TDC with the CAS arrow (one of the two inside it) to the lower part of the black little box inside the CAS. That is afaik supposed to be 0 degrees on the ignition, but it is way early for me.
I can\'t for the life find out why my ignition is so early when it is set right, and getting way too much boost (which wrong timing, either early or late, will give).
I got testing plates on for 17 more hours, so I kinda need help fast here.
Appreciate any answers :)
What modifications are done on the exhaust, intake and turbo if any?
1.2 BAR seems very very high - beyond the capabilities of the stock turbo/intercooler setup!
Regarding CAS timing adjustment - there\'s not much adjustment you can make with the CAS unit +/-, but it is possible to \'stab the CAS\' incorrectly, that is to insert the CAS sensor unit into the front plate with the engine in the wrong position.
I would need to double check the manual, but if I understand correctly, you centre an apex seal between plug holes on the rear rotor (which means you have a face on the front rotor at the same position), then you line up the round mark with the line on the CAS sensor before inserting it into the front plate. You should then have timing control either side of ideal. Search for \'Stabbing the CAS\' on here or the rx7club forum for details on the procedure, or CAS alignment in the service manual - part 2b for turbo engines. In theory you should be able to set the engine position using the timing marks, before inserting the CAS sensor, but that assumes the pulley stack hasn\'t been messed about with - I\'ve seen one with redrilled holes, but the hole placement is deliberate so that you can only mount the pulley with timing marks in ONE position - that\'s assuming you still have the V belt setup.
The large front pulley has 2 timing marks, and these line up with the pin on the front cover - using a timing gun on the front coil pack (it doesn\'t matter which lead as both fire together as it\'s wasted spark on the front coil) and the right most timing mark should be aligned to the pin. To do the timing test properly, the engine should be warm, the TPS set correctly, and the test connector grounded (as this prevents the electrical load system changing the engine revs by disabling the BAC overrides). The timing marks are 15 degrees apart.
Use the front rotor trailing coil to align the 2nd timing mark - although if the first mark is aligned, this 2nd mark is just confirmation. If you\'re timing gun allows for delayed adjustment, you can very the engine rpm\'s, as ignition timing should advance evenly until 4000 rpm, and off boost. Again I can\'t remember the range off the top of my head.
I have set it at the 5 degree ATDC mark and put the CAS correctly in, still gives weird results.
Timing lamp still says advanced by a lot.
Will have to redo it from the start with mark on CAS, then 750rpm and grounding the pin and see if I have overlooked something.
Got stuck at work till 22:00, so I got 2 hours of fixing AND driving :/
Only got 1hr to try, resat the CAS to the mark with the engine at the L1 mark on the main pulley, still the same. Tried advancing and retarding, either getting a :censored::censored::censored::censored:ty running engine (way too much gas it feels like, so I guess way too late), or I get a car that goes okay till boost hits 0.7 bar then knocking, and still goes to 1.2 bar.
Yes, wastegate works.
Got RB full exhaust, custom intake from AFM to turbo, thats it.
Btw, if I disconnect my MAP while the car is running, shouldn\'t the car react die or something? I got no change in idle or drivability.
Checked signal, increases from 0.* volts to 1.2 while revving from idle in neutral gear.
But it doesn\'t react, and my stock boost gauge doesn\'t react, but that is a hack job with spades and wire by me, so might be broken somewhere along the way.
Still doesn\'t explain it though.
Also got Rtek 1.5
I am wondering, this might be grounding issues as well, since I get some sort of MAP signal. Will check main ECU ground on my throttle body tomorrow.
If not, I am baffled. But the lack of MAP sensor reading on my gauge (boost) and the presence of knocking at higher boost tells me the MAP isn\'t reading something correctly, and doesn\'t advance the timing as it should
Sorry for not replying - just back off a short break.
ok some questions - if you disconnect the MAP, it will throw an error code, but it doesn\'t use this sensor for idle at all, in fact very few sensors are used for idle on the car. The idle system is mostly controlled by the bypass adjuster on the BAC valve, by throttle body adjustments, and by the usually hidden adjuster in the AFM that lets a small amount of unmetered air through. The throttle body holds the plates open using a wax thermo valve, until the car is at temperature, the plate gradually shut as it warms up, resting at the level set by a small grub screw at the back. This is your idle control. BAC valve will compensate for electrical loads, sensed by the ECU, but that\'s pretty much it for idle - not MAP, no AFM as such, no lambda sensor. TPS narrow band is monitored to control the operation of a couple of relays that are part of the warmup system.
Regarding MAP sensor / boost guage operation - the MAP sensor is used by the ECU when the car is in the "under load\' part of the map, so not at idle and not during the light load / cruise where the lambda sensor is responsible for trimming up the fuel map dictated by the AFM. As soon as the car goes into positive boost, the MAP sensor provides more responsive fuel control and the lambda sensor isn\'t used anymore as it\'s not fast enough - this part of the map is from about 3500-4000 RPM onwards. Lambda only works between 1500 and that point (a very limited range). The ECU should share the MAP sensor with the boost gauge, so if it\'s not working, it\'s either not getting the signal out properly or the boost gauge isn\'t grounded at the cluster pcb. A voltmeter on the relevant ECU pin should tell you:
MAP in to the ECU is on 2H If that shows MAP readings correctly, then check the voltage on the instrument cluster.
Regarding my gauge, the custom hack job I did was actually failed. The wire from the map was on the floor, but the spade was protected by tape, so no short there. However, I ran the wire in a hole in the firewall at the throttle wire area, and the insulation on the wire was gnawed through.
Can explain my issues with knocking as it only appeared in high boost situations, caused first of all by the timing being stuck, and also by the increased amount of exhaust making the turbo essentially boost creep. That is my theory atleast, as the wastegate is fully working. Can test it again with a compressor, should open fully at around 0.4 bar without the stock boost controller connected.
So, could this be a MAP sensor shorting issue at the firewall? I can\'t see anything else, all vacuum lines were swapped to silicone ones from Mazdatrix two years ago, and most of them have been swapped to better lengths as I swapped throttle body and UIM later.
I should mention I am currently running without my BAC as I broke the stock charge pipe while swapping slave cylinder for the clutch, got no outputs big enough to connect it unless I run two hoses preturbo to the boost controller and charcoal canister outlets, which is hardly enough.
But the BAC does close 100% over idle so it should not matter. And even though if it didn\'t, I shouldn\'t get knocking at 0.05-0.15 bar over stock, when you can drive with 0.8-0.9 bar with a proper FCD and RB exhaust.
Oh yes, about my BAC. The issue with this came up after I "cleaned" in my engine bay (zip-tie mania), which I did the day before swapping the slave cylinder. Which in turn means the BAC and swapping of charge pipe got nothing to do with it.
I am leaning heavily towards the bad wire shorting the MAP output (since it went to the gauge it had to be output, might have thrown the ECU off everytime it hit the firewall).
I can\'t recall if I got less issues sometimes if the shorted part of the wire moved from the firewall, but it might have been stuck there as well...
As for the AFM, it does do a fair amount of work at idle, if I disconnect it goes VERY rich then dies. The MAP however, does nothing even while driving. But again, the short might be the culprit there...
on the AFM front, there are two versions of the AFM, in the UK we got the cone type - from your pictures in the other thread, that\'s the one you have now. That was for the Series 5 RX7, which is the later of the Turbo models - the TII if you like.
The previous model of Turbo used a gate flap and this had to be mounted a certain way, within the AFM is a cut out switch to cut fuel if the car turns over. The TII AFM doesn\'t have the same circuitry. It only has the slider contacts and an air temperature sensor - together these calculate air flow. The Stock ECU is supposed to put the car in a limp mode if the AFM is removed, but some chipped ECU\'s don\'t run with the AFM unplugged.
I\'m basing my comments on what I\'ve observed with my ECU - a blitz chipped ECU, and the stock ROM, but I\'m running an N380 ECU. The service manual has a really good page showing which sensors affect which outputs, and there is also a useful load map diagram, showing which solenoids operate when, and when the car is under lambda control etc.
I\'ve got copies of several ROM\'s, but no RTEK ones, so it\'s possible they do work differently. The 4beat and Blitz Rom\'s are similar, but the tuning is better on the Blitz for exhaust and air intake mods, these will raise boost well above stock, and the stock intercooler will be a real bottleneck in the circuit. You can expect boost creep just by doing the exhaust, with the intake mods you have that\'s a definite unless the wastegate is ported. It\'s also something that can\'t be controlled with a boost controller, that will only work within the limits of the wastegate.
Given the US origin of your car, do you know which turbo you have on the car? Is it the model with dual wastegate holes, or just the single bypass?
More info on these can be found here:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ZWG/zwg.html
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/KWG/kwg.html
Be interesting to see which you have :-)
I have a j-spec S5 engine, N374, got the engine all stock, so I got the dual port wastegate.
The thing is that it never gave me boost creep before. It drives kinda like when I lacked my trailing coils, but now all 4 plugs are firing. But I had almost the exact same symptoms of boost creep and knocking, which again can translate to unburnt stuff going through making it creep.
The big issue is that they are all working, it gets enough petrol, it gets spark. AFM is working fine, MAP did send a signal so should be working, but I haven\'t tested it when I fixed the shortcut at the firewall. Have to tow it in gear, won\'t start even with jumpers, due to my fathers Corolla having the smallest alternator known to man.
I got two days more before I go down south, which means I got two days, then 2 months of waiting.
And when I get back, I will have to take my biennial MOT, pay 150 to get plates on it (half year, full year is £300!)... And if it ain\'t working, I can\'t get the MOT done, nor getting the plates on it.
Tick tock :/
I retarded the ignition to downs syndrome, and now there is no knocking.
I tried till it went like :censored::censored::censored::censored: (since my lamp is dead), then advanced it. At one point it overboosted a lot, then it went down to 0.9 bar where I want it, then it went down to 0.7 bar, and from there to the 5ATDC mark it went up again.
So somewhere in there is the sweet spot, but without a timing lamp and BAC, I can\'t adjust it except by ear and boost.
Weird thing is I am not running the boost solenoid, still getting these levels, and the more I advance, the more it goes up, same goes the other way.
Wastegate is opening like a hookers *****, so I don\'t know. But 0-60 is in the 6 sec area, probably below with a working idle and a new syncro ring in 2nd gear.. numbers seem right.
Might be me being used to 430NM in the Volvo at 1800rpm, compared to my ~300NM at 4000rpm in the 7.