Well happy seasons everybody, I\'m back at home for a couple of days before the brown stuff hits the fan at work and I go back to live in my mobile tin can,
Just spending my 48 hours off chasing up parts and looking at spending more,
It\'s at this point I\'m after all the advice I can get,
Well the best Christmas present I had was checking my bank balance and still seeing 4 figures and no - symbol so it\'s shopping time,
My engine builder has called and told me my engine is done and sat there waiting so we are all go,
I have a shopping list as long as my arm still but for now I am focusing on getting the build running and then I can go handling and cosmetic,
Right advice time,
I have been speaking to Ed about turbos but I want to check with everyone else I am making the right choice,
As you know my engine is running a street port, I have purchased one of his divided manifolds and a waste gate that should be arriving anytime soon,
My main criteria to him was a quick spooling turbo that can get me well into the 400+ club as I am used to 350hp cars and they just don\'t cut it no more,
I don\'t want serious lag and at the moment he is recommending a t4 turbonetics item with billet wheel etc but I need a second opinion and maybe some other options smaller larger who knows,
I am also looking for reliability over anything,
The second thing I am after more info on is electronics should I invest in water injection, ignition boosters etc, I am going to be running a haltech ecu all going well,
I don\'t want numerous gauges so am looking at haltech stack dash consoles,
Give me some reviews and maybe a list of things I should be looking at, fuel pumps regulators etc,
If this was a v8 or a pinto I would know what in doing but obviously this is all very different,
Also anything you have for sale may be of interest to me now, what say you fine people
I have been doing a lot of research on ECU technology recently and up until last night I was set on the haltech platinum system with wideband module, stack dash logger and fully terminated loom, pretty much plug and play bar mapping,
That\'s where my problems arose,
I found plenty of people who claimed they could map it but they either had no rotary experience or previous customers had complained that it was a :censored::censored::censored::censored: map ,
When quizzing a few of them it turns out they just don\'t have the equipment to do a full road map, they just tend to bollock a load of fuel in and do full throttle "race maps"
Obviously with the rotary being a tempremental beast I don\'t want to take the risk,
Anyway I got talking through a friend to Dave at emerald and although his ecu is not as intelligent or have all the plug and play facilities it does tick all the boxes, triple maps which are switchable live monitoring and he has years and years of experience and most importantly has not tried a hard sell or bull:censored::censored::censored::censored:ted me,
Has anyone else had any experience with the ecu or have any more insight into this decision,
Obviously the haltech is the one to have but this route I will have a one stop shop, he can supply, fit and map in house and he is a guy I can trust.
All ECUs are essentially the same, but you need to take it too a rotary specialist. Boost and fuel are easy enough to play with but when messing with timing I believe that when people who don\'t know rotaries end up blowing them up.
Powergains would be a place to contact about mapping a Haltech.
I think tinker, v8 twin turbo FD, has an emerald ecu and he\'s running 1000+ hp. They seem to be prety good
Well the emerald works out a lot cheaper and I trust Dave, but a rotary specialist does swing a lot
Dave from Emerald is a mapping genius so will be more than fine in his hands. He wrote a book for Haynes on engine management.... if you understand internal combustion you can map anything.
Does it do timing split?
Dave walker, he don\'t like rotories as far I know for past 25 odd years. I would not ask him anything about tuning the rotaries
He may be a genius to :censored::censored::censored::censored:ton world and to me and he\'s bit clueless
Dave\'s a brawbag anyway.
i am not sure jaydee at the moment i have just been looking for units compatible with a rotary or units that are rotary specific, every time i always end up coming back to haltech though
fully terminated looms, ease of use, all the extras that are available, ok the price is a little heartburn inducing but i want my car to be the best it can be and reliable
CAR PARTS!
yay more car parts thanks to ED
must admit this one kind of scared me, rather large, in fact bigger then my old turbo lol
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EA12744D-12BA-4F2B-8C4D-FA2096947B66_zpsrq6a6zh0.jpg)
think ED has become a unofficial sponsor on this build, already providing manifold waste gate and turbo and maybe soon the ECU
cannot recommend him enough people
More pics coming soon
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/84F5F07C-B132-4702-91C1-3A352A5EE17B_zpsdpbscrh4.jpg)
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right people, need a few parts and i need to find them in the UK or wherever at a price that won\'t make the vatican jealous.
first off i need blanking plates,
OMP,air pump imp lines etc etc , a full kit would be nice, i just don\'t want to pay £20+ each for something i could hacksaw out of a bit of scrap.
i need inlet manifold gasket and TB gasket etc,
i need exhaust and manifold gaskets and i could do with solid ones that won\'t blow apart at the first sign of boost.
planning on fabricating a down pipe without a kink and with a lambda boss, anyone made one up before or have one for sale?
braided brake and clutch kit,
etc etc
before the engine goes back in the bay i have tried to figure out why i was getting so much play through the steering wheel, i was able to turn the wheel 5\' before encountering any resistance or movement through the steering system,
my rack steering rack is grind or juddery but still got a quote of £95 for a rebuild which i may or may not do,
when i removed the column it all seemed nice and tight apart from the bit at the top just before it goes into the first UJ there is a tiny bit of movement and i mean a fraction, nowhere near enough to encounter that kind of play but i may be wrong,
anyway when looking up steering column replacements and rebushings etc i noticed my column doesn\'t look like any of the pictures, theres all seem to have a rubber doughnut bush, mine is just a sleeve (this has the movement) a UJ and a pin which also allows for the movement,
does anyone have a solid replacement or any suggestions on what i could do, i don\'t want to buy brand new and get manual racks etc but i would like tight crisp steering that won\'t kill me
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C6654BDB-A740-403E-85D0-BEDB6E46AC12_zpsetyav4sd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/500AEF80-B16D-40E7-A0A6-1E18C3796BE4_zps2canwy5h.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/DB075199-1CF9-4422-AE91-94605E80F096_zpsjzy5uolc.jpg)
Bit confused? You have a manual rack already? If your uj are backlash free than must be internal in the rack.
I don\'t know that\'s the problem none of it looks like the pictures, the steering rack itself looks normal all the hydraulics and coolers are still plumbed in but the column up to the steering wheel looks different and there is play in the UJ where that pin goes through,
I might just get a replacement column with UJs already in to try cure it but can never find them for sale
so i just spent £66 on a single gasket, I\'m sure you can imagine how great i feel right now
ok so busy day today before i got the phone call to go into work. spoilsports
woke up to a parcel, its a bag of studs and bolts and stuff fbut i have no idea who from or what for, the only thing i can think of is they are the mounting bolts for my sump brace i purchased off col
but i can\'t be sure, if you sent it though thank you
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so i decided i was going to head back into the yard today and clean up the mess that has accumulated around my car, with it still being a live factory and all and me not touching it for months
also gathered a lot of the redundant bits i pulled off the system that i no longer need, thinking off setting up a for sale thread, things like vac tubes and solenoids etc. no use to me, and I\'m sure someone would pay a fiver for a bag of vac lines etc
also decided to try and pull the wings / fenders off to check for tin worm and check the state of the wiring. only managed to get one side off the drivers side lower screws are snapped or just spinning.
anyway get it off and notice something i haven\'t seen on other restorations, my car has some kind of fender brace fitted. I\'m guessing these are the reinforcement braces for when you jack the car up etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/rx%207%20and%20for%20sale/IMG_0756_zps9fa8fa9a.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/rx%207%20and%20for%20sale/IMG_0755_zpsc125344f.jpg)
either way RESULT
will be going in tomorrow to measure up some templates for my OMP blanking plates etc
They are to help to stiffen the top strut at the front. They are very nice !
Shaun
That\'s a nice find under there..probably expensive.Makes up for that 66 pound gasket!
damn straight! i must admit i giggled a little to myself
especially when i found a unopened bank statement of the previous owners under the seats.
In my 20s when i was awful with money i never opened my bank statements! Either he had loads in there or mucho skint....spill the beans!
http://www.a-spec.com/home.html
Think your top mount braces are from this tuning shop from the US of A.
He was broke until I gave him too much money for a car he beasted
Quote from: boosted;871301http://www.a-spec.com/home.html
Think your top mount braces are from this tuning shop from the US of A.
Cheers for that, looks like they don\'t do them no more, I will just take them off and powder cost them then reinstall
I would say they are from auto select in Japan.
Auto select ...The fonts looks more like it. Suspect a few hundred quid....its a pretty rare mod...wonder if any more goodies on there.
Definitely autoselect, looked them up they look good but only really do stuff for the Gtr now
Working on this crispy oily mess today
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8140BA72-687A-49C9-8EEF-7B333E72B315_zpsoydb0ftm.jpg)
Took hours to get to here
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My fingers are wrecked but now I can start tracing what this nonsensical mess is meant to do
Love making a mess
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/0F4B77D6-1988-413E-A5AD-A5788F5F655C_zpsahs7cwqv.jpg)
Might practise a bit on the old engine loom
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1B3FC954-000F-49AB-96BB-CDD440216C90_zpscoay5uoa.jpg)
Quote from: boosted;871301http://www.a-spec.com/home.html
Think your top mount braces are from this tuning shop from the US of A.
My turbo kit is from A-spec. Sean is very helpful but my god they are slow to supply, plus the answerphone is always full ! They make some very good bits of kit though (which makes they stupidly busy !)
Shaun
Clutch arrived last night big thanks too Matt p, had just enough time to deliver it to my engine builder and have a chat then straight back to work,
Off on a run to Italy for a few days so a little break from the car,
I was in the process of spraying my door handles up to a nice glossy finish and then dropped one and chipped the paint so got all flustered had a giddy fit and put them back on before I forget how, when it comes to the respray I will have my painter do it or get a aqua dip graphic on them.
Finally found someone to map and tune the car for me, after a nice long phone conversation I came away happy that this guy really knows what his talking about and knows what I want from the car.
Turbo should be arriving any time now, when it arrives I can start mocking up a downpipe system that doesn\'t look like :censored::censored::censored::censored:e, would be nice to find somewhere local that can mandrel bend 3" pipe save on a load of cuts and welds,
But that\'s all in the future right now, need to earn the pennies first
Buy your bends off eBay, there\'s all sort. You will probably only need 2x 45s and some straight
Some bits came back from powder coat today, unfortunately my masking wasn\'t too great so have spent hours with a razor blade finishing but they look great, will go over the threads and bolt holes with a tap and die when I find one,
Most of this stuff is for sale as it\'s no longer of use with my single conversion, which reminds me need to update for sale
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Turbo is due to arrive tomorrow so then I can start mocking up and fabbing the manifold and downpipe positions etc and eventually send the LiM off for ceramic coating,
Having a bit of a issue with my engine bay clutter at the moment, I am unsure what is needed and what is not and my engine builder rarely has time to explain every single item,
The front harness is my biggest problem, it horrible looking a hideous route and not exactly fresh,
I just cannot see why so much is needed, I\'m hoping there is a way I can consolidate all the fuses,relays and :censored::censored::censored::censored:e into one tidy spot, has anyone ever done something similar, like the race car guys but maybe not as serious.
It\'s all getting a bit serious now,
Getting annoyed that I need some parts for the next step but then the money isn\'t there or when the money is there the parts are not,
Anyone good at helping out people who jump in to deep
So postie came early today,
Big thanks to Ed
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Actual spec
Ported anti surge compressor housing, 61 mm Billet compressor wheel, 65mm Extended height inconel turbine wheel, T4 1.00A/R Turbine housing
, here\'s some more tasty pics
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/18B9D310-6D2F-45AE-B4F9-DEE6AC018B16_zpsrrfifrvp.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FBA3EAE1-FA6B-45B1-8062-2BBA8845D958_zpsysqotvyj.jpg)
Decided to fart around doing free stuff today as I have run out of funds for the month,
Stripped the front clip of a bit more tat and decided to stone chip the inner arches and front slam panel, no rot so far so doing my damnedest to keep it rot free,
Also pulled off the arch braces to get them painted up and protected,
Decided to tidy up the front wiring a bit aswell, can\'t pull the front harness as my dash is still in so just a tidy up for now.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3AE8E292-1720-4718-94BA-02E111726AEB_zpsolifkpit.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FA9068EE-9758-4E0C-A3A8-CA32030A9ABA_zpsmpnzpbia.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/69D06BF4-30A4-44F7-AE69-CFAE9BA56330_zpscvjlwsb3.jpg)
Yours looks like mine.....big hole waiting for engine lol!
Yeah I\'m in that annoying position where I could have it finished in a few days but I wouldn\'t do it justice, I have spent a lot of money on some expensive parts and a strong engine,
To just bung it in now wouldn\'t be right,
But at the moment I can\'t afford to buy the parts it needs,
I need to bide my time and not get impatient looking at it and do it right
Yes mate its the only way....whatya doing with cooling?
Quote from: boosted;872700Yes mate its the only way....whatya doing with cooling?
Unsure mate, got a intercooler sold to me that\'s in a horrific condition so may cut the end tanks off and sell them or make a inlet pipe out of them,
I have had the offer of a radtec setup, ic and rad at a bargain price but can\'t justify spending on that before ecu / downpipe etc
had a few issues today, got the sump back on with bracing and engine mounts all lovely, went to fit the lightened flywheel, counterweight and clutch and noticed that the flywheel didn\'t have holes for locating dowels to the cover plate,
This has left me with a touch decision,
I could either drill the flywheel, which would have to be very accurate and quite a tough job to drill chromoly properly,
It may also be possible to use no dowels but use shouldered bolts,
Or
I could cut my losses and use the clutch with the old flywheel,
For what little benefit I think I would of gained I don\'t think it would be worth the time and effort of making the lightened flywheel work,
I have sold the counterweight and flywheel and will be using the new clutch on the original flywheel,
Now I have to try and find a decent downpipe or fab one,
There\'s a company in America selling some downpipes v band one end flexi and flange the other so for £109 I think that\'s the way to go as fabbing a item in 3" mandrel bent stainless will run me more then that.
Next up fuel lines, oil lines , Oil cooler lines, and power steering lines all in braided / stainless
Bye bye wallet
Bye bye wallet......lol you and me both but will be worth it in the end! Think id stick with the std flywheel as you say.
well being that my work is seasonal and its been hard to come by the past few weeks, i have been doing any job they have put to me, just to earn the pennies for this build,
my computer decided to ker:censored::censored::censored::censored: itself luckily i only ever buy apple and even though its 4 years old all work was free, thank you please
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me doing what i do best
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wouldn\'t fancy rewiring this,
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this was actually a wooden mock up of the new thames link system built by siemens, wired by us brits
anyway,
clutch is in now on original flywheel,
brought a set of cheap blanking plates, rather then make my own, $18.00 plus shipping and duty, only need a couple of these so the rest will be for sale soon if anyone needs them
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no the ticket was not a winner so this project is still going to run until about june or july.
did find a very good local supplier of anything wiring, he has all the connectors i will ever need etc so for now just got some very good quality loom tape and cable ties and just tidied away the mass of wiring until i need to take the dash out then i will rewire the whole car in one go,
not the best job in the world but it will be waterproof and its no longer rubbing on wheels or bodywork
saved some of the old good insulation and trunking , replaced the front slam panel section
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mid way through
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also went through some of my old pictures and found the first map car i ever owned, mk3 supra! brutal car that was, embarrassed quite a few hot hatches,
unfortunately there was no floor left from the rear seats back so sold it to a drifter who space framed it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/P6290011.jpg)
little update on the shopping list all courtesy of my engine builder at a bargain price that could not be turned down, all new or minimal use and very well looked after,
no pictures yet, no need for these bits really
1 x sard primary fuel rail
2 x siemens deka 750cc injectors
2 x bosch 1680cc secondary injectors
lower inlet manifold with blanking plates
de-cat silencer pipe
next job is fuel lines and oil lines, could anyone tell me what lengths of line i will need and what exact fittings i will need, just so i can go in and get it all done with minimal fuss
i will be keeping everything in tank, but running the lines from the tank all the way to injectors, deleting the hard lines if thats easier to do
right silly questions time, experts required,
today i had a look at the fuel system and after seeing the routing of the hard lines i won\'t be replacing them,
so now my question is, what kind of lengths and what fittings will i need to start at the hard line in engine bay and to feed my injector rails, / FPR etc, I\'m guessing it will be some kind of compression fit,
exact sizes and types etc will be needed here be idiots
also
today i pulled off my oil coolers, one will need to be replaced as it is bent, while these are off i would like to replace the hose with something pretty, now these are push in with a circlip lock, is it possible to get this fitment in the ali an style fittings or would i have to replace with a threaded fitment, also same question for the other side going ito the engine, i believe this is some kind of banjo fitting,
also the original lines go from hose to solid to hose etc and they all seems to be a different diameter, would i damage the engine if i ran say an 8/10 all the way through and directly threaded into the engine, would this cause a pressure increase? or does this not really matter,
i just want to have it tidier and i was hoping to just go to pirtek or somewhere similar and have 2 lines made up cooler to engine, push in or thread in job done,
i found a thread on a american site but these guys were all going for weld in adaptors etc and thats not my game
any help is appreciated on this, as i say here be numpties and we need your help
i found this but there seems to be a argument raging on about actual fitments and to banjo or not to banjo, i just need a definitive buy this part this part and this part! then bolt up
http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/braided-power-steer-lines-oil-cooler-lines-anyone-done-them-893188/
I used all -6 stuff for the fuel lines with 5/8in Fuel Pipe. To be honest its hard to suggest which fittings you need, it can depend on what is on the end of the fuel rails.
I used standard (and will be again) fuel pipe, can\'t stand the braided stuff. Cuts you to ribbons and it is a bugger to seal. Get about 3m and you should have enough.
Shaun
Post some photos of the rails up and we will try and figure it out.
Shaun
i have it all together, at the moment its all standard inlet and lower manifold with aftermarket primary and secondary rails,
although if my deliberations go well in the future i will be having full custom inlet and lower manifold, space for 10 injectors but they can be blocked or used or even incorporate water injection. but thats getting ahead of ourselves, at the moment aftermarket in stock locations,
will get pictures when i have it in the bay
purchased the basics of my fuel system today, can figure out the right fittings once i have done a general route
so sprayed up the wing supports just to protect them from lovely salted roads
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and stripped off the oil coolers, (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3D2FC3D3-4563-445C-9755-014D9FDA6136_zpslhvhmazq.jpg)
the one of them has been bent beyond all recognition, it doesn\'t leak but i am not happy running it with bends and cracks
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i was going to run braided lines for my oil coolers and do away with all the push fittings until i went into pirteks and listers and found out just to trace the original route with AN fittings would cost me £300 +++ maybe not
so focusing on fuel now i went to my local place to get the basics for my fuel system ready for when the engine turns up and i can do a rough route and cut and then go get all the fittings to suit the rail for etc
he told me the price and i laughed! then he told me he was serious.
seriously expensive stuff, i will go all out on fuel lines purely because of what they carry but any other braiding is going to be ebay special i think!
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well back from work with a stinking man flu paralysing me but i did come home to some mail! whoop more parts
my bargain ebay oil coolers, turned up
on ebay they average at £30-£40 each in good condition,
also i checked up on what it would cost to have the lines braided and ended, £300 all in
so when i went on ebay and saw BOTH oil coolers, in good nick, with braided line i decided £25 would do! haha kerching
also got my super stupid expensive gasket through in the post, feel a little better as it came with two tax disc holders,
whoop
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very layered etc I\'m guessing this is what makes it a thermal barrier, just unsure what kind of torque i should seal it all up with, do i crush it or do i put a heat cycle through it and retorque
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/50FA0DD8-DD37-4A18-B78B-605855486F39_zpsuj3uwsba.jpg)
so the same guy i brought the oil coolers off, i searched through his listings and he also had a nearly brand new air filter, not going to argue for £16 now am i
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/669C3A0A-30A1-4C71-9D5D-406C38224D16_zpsszgasuvq.jpg)
also have you ever started a job and wished you hadn\'t?
i have never had my dash out and i don\'t want too as i know it can be a very destructive process, but parts of my dash were loose or rattly plus i needed to check some wiring so i decided to strip the glossy bits off for a clean ,repaint and a inspection behind them, big mistake
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A2255D8F-9B81-4AE9-A080-F3650A61BABA_zpskxpvkrum.jpg)
nearly every clip, every screw, every screw hole is damaged or missing,
i think out of the 40 + screw holes i found (of which maybe 20 hadn\'t collapsed) there was about 15 actual screws, so now i have to replace all these bits or spend an age filling, repairing and generally farting about with bits i shouldn\'t need too,
track day boys have it made
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/849784C3-429E-4050-B508-8A05EF8CBAA6_zpsgj7wznm3.jpg)
Nice work fella...your progressing at the same rate as me...fast!
was going to be a busy day today but unfortunately schedules did not match and i didn\'t get the engine i like i was planning,
instead i have sat in my bed all day with the man flu sulking eating minstrels and shopping,
contacted a guy in the states about a lovely new fuel pump kit, if it is what i think it is i will be paying for that tomorrow ,
because i couldn\'t pay for that right now i got even more upset and found a list of every light bulb used on a rx7 and raped ebay for can bus LED equivalents,
my car will either be really bright for ages or really bright from the fire that ebay LEDS have produced we will soon see.
still bored i decided to order my inline fuel filter, i was going to get a tasty item i spied awhile ago that has a fuel line lock lever so you can replace the element without getting a fuel bath (not ideal with cheap ebay electronics hanging around)
went to actually look at the price and it was £189 oh well...
i knew demon tweaks were knocking out sytec items pretty cheap so went to order through them instead £58 was the price, that is until you select the fitting you want and then it jumps up to £70+
damn my life, so ebay it is again find a guy selling what i want and it comes out to £50 with free shipping, buy now blah blah and then have the sense to look at his ratings, mostly good but pages of negative about how he is rather slow at shipping items if at all....
so all in a bad day
I had a day off due to night shift tonight ! God I\'ve had enough of shift work! 1 positive is Im cleaning all my engine parts in the washer this week!
my work is all over the shop, hence why some months i can buy turbos and everything i need the next i can\'t afford a gasket.
just brought a fuel pressure regulator aswell
right,
been doing a bit of research and a few sums etc etc and i have started rethinking my plan,
my initial plan was for the rebuild, turbo conversion and haltech ecu
i have been looking a lot recently and the sheer amount of work that my car needs and expense it needs the haltech isn\'t looking possible YET
my supplier reckons for my planned ecu , loom and stack dash I\'m looking at £1800 plus import duty and delivery of maybe £400
thats a lot of money. especially when you have to add on mapping.
so option b is
buy the apex pfc and commander at about £450-£500 and make a loom or get one of eds looms and I\'m still saving £1200
and I\'m sure i can find a stack dash that will fit the apexi,
values seem to be holding on apexi gear so in future if i do get the money i need i could always sell on the apexi stuff and then get the one i want,
any help, input , advice on this subject would be awesome cheers guys
That is just for the parts, expect to pay quite a bit of cash fitting and tuning. I bet I\'ll have spent another £500 in bits (partly due to rearrange coolant system, whole car wiring etc, connectors etc). My Aim dash was almost 900 quid too with the CANbus connection.
I\'ll be putting my pfc up for sale soon.
Shaun
May be interested in that mate,
And yes that is the exact reason why I think apexi is the way to go, nearly 2.5g just on my ecu isn\'t what I call fun
The pfc will be fine for you, a few are changing to haltech because they want to run xx boost which is crazy. The haltech will give you a smoother running car and lots of safety features if used.
Another ecu that can be had quite cheaply secondhand is the motec m2r it is dos based, but can be made to run the car very nicely.
All in all speak to your tuner, to see what they are most happy with, as you can have the best ecu in the world if your tuner cannot use it, it will drive worse than a cheaper ecu.
Quote from: mikey-t;874144right,
been doing a bit of research and a few sums etc etc and i have started rethinking my plan,
my initial plan was for the rebuild, turbo conversion and haltech ecu
i have been looking a lot recently and the sheer amount of work that my car needs and expense it needs the haltech isn\'t looking possible YET
my supplier reckons for my planned ecu , loom and stack dash I\'m looking at £1800 plus import duty and delivery of maybe £400
thats a lot of money. especially when you have to add on mapping.
so option b is
buy the apex pfc and commander at about £450-£500 and make a loom or get one of eds looms and I\'m still saving £1200
and I\'m sure i can find a stack dash that will fit the apexi,
values seem to be holding on apexi gear so in future if i do get the money i need i could always sell on the apexi stuff and then get the one i want,
any help, input , advice on this subject would be awesome cheers guys
agreed, i was never bothered about the boost etc that the haltech could cope with was always more bothered about how safe it can be, so easy to monitor etc plus have got previous experience with haltech.
i just need to wind back a bit and remember this is a road car so theres no point putting half of its value into a ecu
THE ENGINE IS BACK IN!!!
and yes i know
CHOP CHOP
postman came this morning!!! goodies
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C4215F22-0DBA-4914-8808-3476C08A36A2_zpszchfxj0t.jpg)
this is my bargain ebay oil cooler braided setup! normally £40 per cooler plus however many hundreds for the braiding i paid £25
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/46FB5642-0BAA-41C7-B5EE-2DE6FAA6837B_zpsjiwfdvg6.jpg)
Quote from: mikey-t;874212THE ENGINE IS BACK IN!!!
and yes i know
CHOP CHOP
Good work fella....:yes
woke up to more parcely goodness this morning, nice little fuel pressure regulator
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/364115DF-1901-46C7-9608-3FE31672333E_zpsdwdw2vma.jpg)
this inspired me to get down the factory and capitalise on the fact that the engine is now IN
i was left a couple of little jobs by my engine builder as we ran out of time and light last night, some of the most simple jobs going and i still :censored::censored::censored::censored: them up, all i had to do was get under the car put in the last couple of bolts through the bell housing, reconnect the slave, and engage the fork,
needless to say couldn\'t figure out which bolts go where, fluid in my eye and a large amount of dust and i gave up,
thought it would be rude not to offer up the manifold turbo lim etc whilst it was there and this should be more fun
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FBE9519C-D6A4-43DE-960A-DFAD1CBB814A_zpsclqf6znn.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D6D4C9C5-686B-4097-97FD-8E7E4132751B_zpsyv9bfxow.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D5C70226-3D3D-45FE-BFA4-15CC73E708CF_zpsnlu6g57w.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E35C7483-EB69-44E2-9A45-47BF30C94F76_zps5d1zou0u.jpg)
manifold needs a bit of a chop and reweld as it produces the turbo where the lim should be, put the lim in and it pushes the turbo half inch away from its flange, don\'t know if i can be bothered with all of that especially as i can run out of skill with anything requiring more then a lump hammer and brute force, will have to look at what my options are
so i walked off and left all the stuff in a pile and went for some retail therapy,
had to replace all my fuel lines as they were not teflon based, and premix would eat through them quick smart, also picked up a few bits that i needed to replace due to excursive play or damage, and picked up this lovely rad / intercooler combo,
big thanks to my new local "parts supplier" and his rx7 treasure trove
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E7DC6996-8F9F-46F7-B9F2-5A8E97134088_zpsc1w6ejpd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1B8078DD-C71A-4708-BCF2-1D969945A8C0_zpslxekxouj.jpg)
i left a few kebab sticks, a cloth and some metal polish in the kitchen next to it for my mrs, she loves that kind of :censored::censored::censored::censored:, might delay my dinner by an hour or so but shel get it shiny shiny
anyone fancy that manifold
Have you tried spinning the front of the turbo, is the manifold fitted with gaskets also the lower intake manifold is the wrong way round and looks a lot thicker than normal.
Cheers , i know it\'s the wrong way round and the turbo hasn\'t been spun it\'s the hot side that catches, Ed did make me aware that the manifold needs adjustment, and yes that gasket is huge it\'s one if these heat suppressing ones, plus it\'s massively out.
Unfortunately my skill level is way short of what\'s required as it\'s the flange on a divided manifold that needs adjusting.
more bits today! my cheap LED bulbs have arrived, see if i can test these out for a bit when the car is running,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/133AE1DF-6F34-4F52-AD32-0E9DCD3FAED9_zpsdtyx04wg.jpg)
have gone for a different route now with the fluids, sticking to braid and AN for my oil cooler lines and got myself a AN 10 bundle of joy today with some dowty seals to match
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/05A82838-19D5-44EA-9DF4-3F9B816B6033_zpskyrpqrou.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A720D2B7-47E3-4CA2-95CF-51FCC521ADCA_zps5bdjuc3m.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7518E5F2-6E6C-40A2-AEB4-71594377E07E_zps465zq2gb.jpg)
on the fuel side of things I\'m running PTFE line braided, as this won\'t react with my fuel / premix and should last a bit longer, i had the choice of running this with the normal red/blue AN fittings but have decided i will measure it all up and then get the ends terminated with a proper swage, its half the price and a bit more secure in my opinion
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FEEFC51A-CA30-4509-99DE-2BDE42CD57C0_zpsbcbzffax.jpg)
all coming together slowly, off out on tour for a few weeks now, but should hopefully come back with another boat load of money and start spunking it on mikalor clamps and wiring
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/078E2B27-778B-4A12-89AC-D393CF133679_zpsmtoh7jm9.jpg)
back home for a couple of days, got a little sick on tour so I\'m bed ridden and shopping for bits
need a bit of advice first though,
i need to get two fans for the above radiator, now the question is do i need to buy push or pull fans, i will be going front mount,
also do i need to make up a shroud for the radiator aswell?
got a few of my mikalor hose clamps turned up and my fuel pump has been ordered,
ceramic internals 340 LPH @ 40 psi, 270 LPH @ 5 bar, that should cover it,
got a bit of help coming out tomorrow see if this manifold is worth the hassle or not, if its going to be a ball ache i will sell it and get a full custom item made up, or get eds longer running manifold,
im not exactly what you would call a fabricator
looks to me like pull fans bud, should be able to measure them mounting lugs and check demon tweeks for some to mount on them.....or use and original fd fan pack.
cheers fella i will prefer to go aftermarket purely to have more control over the fans, they are twin 12" spaces
as ever this car is fighting me every step of the way,
was having trouble getting the clutch fork to engage properly so had a good look today and it turns out a bit had come off the clutch plate so we will have to pull the engine out again and try redo it, worse case we will have to rebuild the clutch plate bearings etc etc
had a good look at the turbo / manifold layout and thin owe have come up with a solution to chopping up my manifold,
as the hot side touches the LIM but only just and by a lot more with my thermal gasket installed we have come up with the idea of using a manifold flange as a spacer moving the manifold 10-12 mm away from the block and therefore away from the LIM, obviously this is a bit of a bodge but i would prefer this to cheese wedging a brand new manifold and having uneven heat expansion etc stressing studs and bolts.
so if i go engine block into gasket into spacer into gasket and then manifold it should provide me with enough clearance,
running fairly small turbo this will not provide to much of an issue chassis side
if anyone has any spare good condition exhaust manifold gaskets please let me know,
ecu has been sourced so now i just need to mock up all my oil and fuel lines, find someone to build me a down pipe and intercooler hard lines and I\'m pretty much away.
also looking at getting a oil sandwich plate to pull off a couple o spurs maybe for turbo feed /drain and filter relocation.
Having a look at your pics mate id get some tape over the inlet holes....anything could drop down there and it would all end in tears bud.
yes mate they are taped up now ready for covering in heat management, cheers for that don\'t want to rebuild again anytime soon
tried to draw up a up to date spec list,
forgot loads I\'m sure, but yes this is where my money has gone
-Atkins Rotary Rebuild Kit
-Cryogenically treated apex seals,solid corner seals, side seals,
-Viton rings
-Rotary Art gasket kits
-DM-motorsport anodised billet secondary rail
-AM Sportscars locking nuts
-Gizzmo thermal intake gasket
-Sytec bullet fuel filter
-Teflon (PTFE) 10mm stainless braid fuel hose
--10 stainless braided oil lines with AN fittings from coolers to engine
-Sard primary fuel rail
-Siemens Deka 750cc primaries
-Bosch 1680cc Secondaries
-De-Cat silencer
-Mikalor Supra clamps on all non AN fluid / air pipes
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Turbonetics turbo
Ported anti surge compressor housing, 61 mm Billet compressor wheel, 65mm Extended height inconel turbine wheel, T4 1.00A/R Turbine housing
-Turbonetics rg-45 wastegate
-Ed_Rx7 parts short runner manifold
-silly big radiator and intercooler
-Jayracing pro ceramic internal fuel pump
-Apexi pfc ecu
spent a little time down the workshop before i got all squiffy again today,
had a tidy up and decided to see how i would fit this rad/intercooler setup,
the end game is i have no :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing idea
rad fits in on the chassis rails just nice but will block the intercooler pipes no matter how its mounted, the intercooler sits nicely behind the slam panel thing but the pipes look like they will be higher then the bonnet, if it fits underneath the chassis rail it will be too low and the pipes will hit the radiator etc etc so basically i have no clue, this has come off someones car before so it must have ft somehow any ideas????
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3F33EFE3-DF49-4914-8DD6-39D6C20F94FC_zpseysl2u20.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2EDEA95C-4E8E-4265-98FD-FEAF287BF4BF_zps4v8pxwig.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F09701FA-8482-4274-900C-4963B663B15C_zps3aswppcx.jpg)
also dug out this lightened flywheel which is surplus to requirements,
i didn\'t use it as there is no holes for locating dowels and didn\'t feel comfy running with no dowels
open to offers on this
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/42ABAF94-A9A6-4B8B-B63E-3E12F1DCF581_zpsr473rlxt.jpg)
having fun tonight
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FDAB67EA-AB12-4A03-AC25-387280C41B93_zpsqdakzdu2.jpg)
You tried v mounting that IC/rad set up?
No not yet I have been away on tour, I have been sent pictures of how it fits now and it does go front mount,
so after a few weeks away doing this kind of thing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8AF34A66-69DF-44AD-9AED-23B788E8E5EA_zpsapubdkbe.jpg)
I have finally got 12 hours at home, and have come home to a box of goodies,
big thanks to those who have supplied the goodies
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/42D896E6-CF8F-48CE-899E-FCD8ECE558C5_zps9878jihh.jpg)
apexi pfc and commander
mikalor clamps
purpley tasty braided brake lines
LOTS of heat protection
just need a bit more money and a lot more time now
been ploughing on with the wiring again today, all good fun,
also got more stuff for the car, unfortunately the only import item sent was wrong again, sent the wrong fuel pump,
shame really because they are a awesome bargain, ceramic internals etc
so this will have to be sent back and replaced
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A0C5E00C-472C-4EE9-8EE8-580F915C335F_zpsld1sz293.jpg)
got my exhaust nuts and OMP blanking plugs from pineapple
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/810AE78D-17C3-47DE-83AD-197AA4C5FD26_zpssvq0qwu9.jpg)
and this little item,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/86A85E63-FF9F-4C9C-A9E4-58252B17DACB_zps9w9hzlqr.jpg)
will spend tomorrow mocking up the fuel lines etc and trying to fit whatever bolt ons i can remember
went down the unit today to plough on, only problem is i seem to have forgotten how my car goes back together, that and all my nicely labelled bolt bags have ended up rather mixed up or lost! arse burgers
decided to play around with heat protection stuff today covering absolutely everything i can think of,
its nowhere near a tidy job, lots of overlap and rips and little patch bits, but i don\'t care, theres some protection, don\'t give a rats undercarriage what it looks like
wiring is now fully identified thanks to a few rather good write ups, i may make a few of these
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D1FE0C5B-6E3B-4DF8-9A74-EDB7237E047D_zpsbxcufehn.jpg)
heat be gone
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/49D4FD52-F9D2-4649-8328-A983486BC294_zpsobwiwc1s.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AF8E4C18-C291-47B7-9129-8AB2931AF628_zpspx6vytl2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/63BEE06C-8F47-4863-9B50-1A906505BD08_zpsbb3tiebg.jpg)
work in progress
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/75E9203C-FE6F-44DE-AE85-979B4DE5F52E_zpsgbmevwz5.jpg)
covered the elbow because i got bored
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C0CA18CF-80D6-49EE-922C-BF030DBB0D36_zpsm84f1lkc.jpg)
more boredome
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D858517B-BF1A-4B0A-AA7A-1F476CAEC115_zpsfsaoqzjt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3E8B1857-DCF7-401A-8D4D-58573189C83C_zps4wy5jsnz.jpg)
SOON
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F7BD90C2-2588-499E-8DA9-6632E8285A17_zpsvljlvm60.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/52066417-D575-48DF-BD25-F40751DD9D4E_zpsziqeo2lv.jpg)
started fitting obvious bits back on until i get some help, also a good way of finding out which bolts are actually missing etc,
can see a massive bolt shopping spree coming up on rhdjapan
well i have been super busy at work and had no time to work on the car but the latest little update is here,
found a guy local to me who specialises in building manifolds and exhausts for vw and porsche cars, but not your average street ones, this guy builds full custom race spec stuff and is lovely to boot,
i got chatting to him and he loves anything challenging so i have tasked him into editing my manifold and in the future making my down pipe etc etc.
he received the manifold yesterday with the extra cut flange that he will be welding to the original to bring the turbo away from the LIM without cutting too much into eds lovely manifold and messing about with curves or lengths etc,
he reckons it will be done within 2 days so watch this space.
struggling for money at the moment especially as i am trying to quit smoking, i have got into this gaping lark ,i have been going at it for months but never really taking over with me, that was until my mate pushed my buttons, he knows i like gadgets and modifying things so he introduced me into ecig modifications,
bye bye hours of my day and lots of money, but the results are incredible, for anyone looking at quitting this is the route to take just don\'t get in too deep like i have ended up doing, its the quest for the perfect flavour and perfect smoke cloud thats more addictive then a quarter mile time
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/586D9873-D8E9-40CB-B9C6-3C9584BD331A_zpswnh3sj3b.jpg)
but yes chop chop and all that , we are nearly there
so i have got my manifold back now after its editing to suit. had the tubular sections sunk into the flange and blended in and has a second flange welded onto the original to bring the turbo out away from the LIM, i saw this as a better mod then putting in a angled wedge at the turbo side, hopefully then i wont come across any hot spots or bottle necks
the welds are both internal and external so no chance of any air obstruction or material warp etc etc,
not the prettiest mod but it certainly works.
props to turbo thomas in redditch for his fabrication and welding work, highly recommended.
also big thanks to ifty today for sorting out a few missing components. i now have 2 engine looms one will be used as a map for the one i am rebuilding and then when i have mine done we will be buillding another brand new loom from the pattern off the existing loom as a spare or sale item,
hopefully my mechanic will be round tomorow to start the reinstallation of the bolt ons, i was going to be there but my work season has kicked in well and truly. i will be lucky to have another day off before new year, so looks like mates, members and anyone i can find will be building my car for me from now on..
this is going to cost me
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E0816200-4870-4DE3-B38D-F2D632E5EBA7_zpsfuv4i5wt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EE3D53A1-AC49-427C-9B0A-DEC005BB4186_zps6hsxmscd.jpg)
bit of a :censored::censored::censored::censored:ty day today, my mechanic couldn\'t make it so i spent the first half hour just stood over the car figuring out why i have 3 boxes of bolts and yet none of them fit the holes i need them too,
anyway got busy with the brakes that have been sat in my boot for nearly a year, found myself a impact screwdriver thingy so that was hammered into submission
discs and pads on the front job done,
whilst i was there i thought i would fit my nice shiny purple braided brake lines, this is where the problems started
started front left and went to undo the existing poor quality braided line from the connector to the hard pipe, IT WAS ON LESS THEN FINGER TIGHT!!!! it had been forced on cross threaded and was only holding by the final turn of thread and the pin inside was bent, how it hadn\'t popped off i do not know,
nevermind i can replace the joiner and put on my nice shiny purple braided lines, ermmmm no
the company on a famous auction site that send out KITS SUITED TO YOUR CAR, have messed up, yes the lengths are right , all look pretty but the thread is the wrong thread, pitch everything even the depth is wrong, not a happy boyo
also it looks like my callipers will be in need of a rebuild as the piston dust jacket on one has a rip, not the easiest thing to get hold of.
so now yeah i am stuck waiting for my mechanic who knows how everything goes back together to come out and tell me what I\'m missing, what needs replacing and then i can get it all brought and i reckon a long weekend with him will have it done,
just need to wait until we are both free,
I\'m too excited for waiting
my poor baby
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/48438E97-C038-49FA-86A7-2BEF7EA616F5_zpsjcmzmeqy.jpg)
That manifold is a work of art!
Quote from: boosted;877606That manifold is a work of art!
cost me enough money and hassle to get it there mate!
supplied to me but didn\'t fit so had this guy modify it for me, think he enjoyed getting away from air cooled engines for once
http://www.turbothomas.com/porscherange/930/index.php
More stuffs too
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2F458B94-4001-40BF-8E99-7FD2BCBF7408_zpsqd6atgra.jpg)
Very nice mate, good read too
big thanks to matt p today for the advice and inspiration to keep on moving on,
trialing 3d printers at the moment,this shiz is the future man, can\'t wait to print off a diffuser or new throttle body etc, come on technology
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/23E37593-503F-4E6B-9C42-99B6E7C68897_zpsryjkrprd.jpg)
so not had a chance to wrench on the car as ive been busy working and missing anniversarys etc etc
plus i am stil lwaiting on parts,looms, and mechanics.
whilst all that has been happening i decided to go bug matt p for a bit and start refurbing the wheels i got cheap.
didnt realise how labour intensive this job actually is
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/801CD3AD-7AD0-4ACC-8205-B058B0F4C407_zpsslkqnnsz.jpg)
ickyness
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5DEC5F85-5083-45CB-B0AC-18D2237ED9B8_zpsxai5kdnm.jpg)
power tools to make mess, and stealing all the mother in laws chemicals and :censored::censored::censored::censored: just to poke the bear and get my risk in for the day. shes gonna be :censored::censored::censored::censored:ed when she sees the splatter all up in her garden
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9EEF8558-8C93-43BD-8EC8-52BAB298FEB6_zpsg5oyznmc.jpg)
well its progress
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AD0010B1-553B-4B7D-B7B9-F3D7D5346A4A_zps7egxkql4.jpg)
Finally back in the uk just a quick stop check to let you know I am still alive and the car is still in bits,
It\'s absolutely mental at work at the moment so progress has stopped but the pay has increased drastically so hopefully can knock it out the park on my next break.
Anyone help on a few things to get the car running,(cosmetics can wait)
I need links to the best /cheapest/ bargain of the century deals if new and a price and condition if secondhand
Thermostat
Mikalor supra clamps for all air and water
Decent fuel pump
AN3 oil feed
AN10 oil drain
Downpipe (or fabricator)
Fans (aftermarket, pref with controller)
Electronic boost controller
What you got / what do you know of people,
Also if you can think of anything else I may have forgot please let me know
Box of awesomes
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C6B11746-D5D5-4FCD-9D7E-3D8272DB45F6_zpsfsk3vxrg.jpg)[/URL]
Contents, (some of)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/097761E7-0B73-4B20-A55C-05CE588980EC_zpsei18qixo.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C278F295-15AB-41D6-B184-9F4D53DCD845_zpskx8oeowy.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/941B26AF-5729-400D-849A-5BFDB9CB81AA_zpsu3sy1yh3.jpg)
To anyone thinking of doing the same, that\'s nigh on £300 before labour, import, taxes etc. Looms be expensive
right been a while since i updated so little update to keep this going,
been away for a little while and unable to do anything on the car but came back with a bit of a wedge to push things along,
i have decided with my job being so erratic i dont have time to finish the car myself and to the standard i want, so i have taken a wad of money round to my mechanics and told him to just get it done, i will participate as and when i can. and that way once the car is up and running i can take it off the road periodically and do the jobs that arent perfect properly and with new shiny bits,,,,
anyway today has been all about bolt ons and my manifold, got some :censored::censored::censored::censored: back on and had the manifold final welded and the wastegate flange positioned and installed. bear with me and all my pictures, i just love my car and all its little bits
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/64AEC005-CCED-477D-A7B1-817C1349A5C1_zpsyqzerf5c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6EBA7F98-AD4D-4741-90F3-C8BCF2E8AC77_zpsgrvoxrkd.jpg)
debating wether to go hard pipe here with sexy welds or wire coiled silicone hose in purple. either way its a bit of a retarded angle and i dont want a creasing pipe, we will have to see
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/129462E5-ACD5-44A2-B4B9-4AC8609E38E2_zpseiczxauo.jpg)
wastegate flange welded on
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2A05A52C-692D-499F-9720-19DEA88E399A_zpsfxt15jjj.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AA24431F-7157-42FA-B6F0-DB5408ABC367_zpsor9mxhdt.jpg)
right in the feel\'s
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1BAD1410-6BFB-42A0-BD65-176B435B672F_zpsjodduvtt.jpg)
final positioning
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/585D890F-162D-4C53-95C0-9E958935E304_zpsxgv1lhuq.jpg)
fairly quiet day today, spent my time winding up the staff working in the office etc etc
did get a couple of parcels and shopping things done though.
big respect to mr china man who noted down on the paperwork that my expensive :censored::censored::censored::censored: was actually worth 10 us dollars, he knows,,,,,
downpipe, sorted
nice bit of flexi action to stop the cracky cracky jizz
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/4B7F16AB-6521-478A-B22B-6EB4C46DDD1F_zpsfs2c3dbx.jpg)
also sorted out my oil feed in swaged AN-3 braid, with a nice little result of dirt cheap XRP fire sleeve, offcuts ftw!!!
usually like £12 a metre
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/29C499D3-496D-4587-BDF3-0E2A185EEAB2_zpscnkptvp2.jpg)
all my fuel lines should be here by the weekend for us to plumb the :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored: up, my wire guy will be out on sunday to go over the routings that i want so he can length the cable and branch out to suit and then he can complete / terminate the loom and we should be one step closer
did not get as much done today as i had hoped but there is still light at the end of the tunnel
we mocked up all the fuel lines and got them cut to length but installing them into xrp fittings with no vice is a ball ache so thats being done elsewere now.
i managed to get the oil cooler plumbed in with one braid so far just need to build and install the 2 lines to the engine block top and bottom.
im thinking of running one long one to the anti roll bar and secure it there, (read cable tie the :censored::censored::censored::censored: out of it) and route the rest along any non moving part i can find
got the manifold and turbo mounted permanent and then mocked up the downpipe to mid pipe sections, after taking a hammer and then a bigger hammer and then cutters to the heat shield we got it in but there is minimal clearance.
im hoping i can just get it started and out the workshop as it is and then trailer it to stockport or someone local and get them to extend the downpipe out a bit and then make me a new exhaust back from there including a silenced de-cat.
i will replace all the heat shield i cut out with some more efficient stickyback heat foil. and then wrap the downpipe once its been edited.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6DB72DFE-7ACB-485E-A5D5-5FCFA329A397_zps0plpkrs1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/35D2BE0F-E89E-4238-9E33-BE26318C18E1_zpsgmdijslb.jpg)
god knows how you boys get your mahoosive turbos in there
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/159A22BB-D4AF-49F4-8D0A-FA6F64112A39_zps5nwbmo1f.jpg)
next task is to find a suitable fan or twin fans with controllers so i can do away with all the mazda :censored::censored::censored::censored:, get some temporary silicone hoses until i can get my hard pipes made up and general odds and sods.
any parts or hands that like working on rx7s would be more than welcome at this point, cheers for following
Looks like its all coming together now! good work! keep it up.
Cheers matey muchly appreciated,
Worth it in the end that turn the key moment gonna be epic!
Nice looking build man. Been watching it for a while now aye haha:Giggle
Quote from: mikey-t;881721any parts or hands that like working on rx7s would be more than welcome at this point, cheers for following
Im not too far from Redditch, if you ever want a hand and I\'m not at work aye! Not very experienced.. But I suppose itd be better than nothing?:chat
Cheers all what I really need right now is someone with a tig welder and experience to help me with some fab work, these people are hard to find
Today we have been playing the shielding game
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/881799AD-7B68-49CC-BBEE-348970BF4A15_zpsm6oqux8g.jpg)
quiet day today. ordered my wideband and stuff and enquired about buying a unit/workshop for me and a mate.
been told my work is about to go mental so i may delay the build and come back with a pocket full of money and some changes to the build,
so today i got to try out my new impact wrench. one wheel took me 2 days to split, today i did 3 wheels in 40 minutes flat.
happy days, off to powder coaters when they open next day off
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/52BFE706-F099-429E-AEB1-DD49096ACC6C_zpst0qz78kx.jpg)
looking at getting the stickers remade by a company i used to do some work for,
may have some spare if they come out ok, these ones are bent and discoloured
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/ADDCE412-24AB-474B-82D2-ECA5E09E73F9_zpsq6atffqs.jpg)
i have filled my box file full of receipts and invoices, always concerning when you have to buy a second box file for receipts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F8BBD392-A258-438D-988D-FE64321C1A1F_zpstsbgyppd.jpg)
My powdercoater has disappeared so today I have had to hunt around and find a new powdercoaters that I can entrust my little babies to,
Hope they live up to the reputation they have got, will post pics when they come back,
I have told the guy to take his time and mask properly as I can\'t afford to have powdercoat on a mating face,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BE23B5C6-084D-4D1B-87E8-1D61ECE58FDC_zpsawutbdks.jpg)
More goodies turned up today,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D1091D8C-9BFC-4C2A-969A-96986E7C5843_zpsw1uj0hps.jpg)
Great to see your progress and nice shiny things arriving :Thumbs-up
Had a go at redesigning the sticker that goes on my alloy wheels, will have it made up in a 3d domed sticker as per the original Desmond - RE sticker.
Hopefully it won\'t look to tacky
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AC90515C-A213-436F-872E-18D1E43BDDB8_zpstmjinm4y.png)
So not had a lot of time at home this past few weeks. Work on the car has been a bit sporadic.
Sorted some bits of the power loom out, seriously high quality compared to the standard tat
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/22428A5A-95B0-4050-805B-A5A03FC39A0E_zpsngnlu9o2.jpg)
This is just the section from the battery terminal to main relay and fuse box with a inbuilt isolator etc
Also got some new nuts for the split rims, and my stickers arrived
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/49DC48F6-774F-4875-968E-00CFF6527CEF_zpstw2i4nku.jpg)
Main loom got a bit messy
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/54525D1A-8660-46DA-BE1B-33822AB3B327_zpszvrstuss.jpg)
Tatted up some components I had lying around
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C3735E6C-5093-4E8A-90DF-4C7D711AFCAB_zps6uhrnlb0.jpg)
Nearly there with the loom
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A5EC8B41-E837-4B78-A27C-FA9F7809DBFF_zpsnpuddsnf.jpg)
And pretty much done apart from final resistance tests etc etc
All fully sealed, any data has been shielded, all over braided and sealed again. Also identified with actual part numbers etc and lengthed and routed to my spec which should hopefully avoid any deterioration
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2119059C-298F-43B5-A94E-5A792542E98A_zpsinfobbxl.jpg)
So yeah slow but progress
Oh and fuel lines are done!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E8DA9E33-A7B2-4555-BD5E-1EBF3DB2716F_zpsstxqkrzm.jpg)
Will also be in the market for a decent quality BOV of some sort, what are others using? In the past I have only ever used tial but what else is out there, I\'m no chav and don\'t require a window shattering sound but I want it to do its job properly, so need it to be fully adjustable and tuneable to whatever pressures my system will require,
So come on guys what you running
love that loom quality work.
cheers all!
getting ready for a day off and a day down the yard tomorow, got a couple of mock up hard air pipes to :censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:ise, riv nutting the intercooler etc in aswell hopefully, mechanic will be there for a hour or two also
did get a nice little package today, came from greece of all places, its a innovate turbo timer, but it also doubles up as a AFR display and mates to my ls2 lambda set up,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2DF30EDA-F0CF-4721-9674-80E339844515_zps5zxqhsnm.jpg)
also finally found the colour code for my repaint, still purple but there was a specific look i was after.
the painter at work has offered the following at a silly silly low price.
i pay for materials
he will
-stripdown
-full inspection dent spot / blemishes / metal work
-panel gap align all round
-any required metalwork
then he will drop a few deep coats of purple and he same again with some scratch proof laquer
hopefully he can do the car justice and hopefully i can do the rest of the car to match. so yeah more updates tomorow hopefully
Wow well done, takes a lot of Patience to get wiring that good, it will go well with the work on rest of the car :3gears-lh
had the expertise of a good friend getting me through, all your compliments are appreciated, helps get me through the build
right so there was a bit of a mixup and my mechanic did not turn up today so i was left alone to work on it, potentially lethal mistake that.
fuelling is pretty much done, teflon an -6 lines for future proofing. only done the engine bay as yet, will run the car like that until the engine is broken in and fully tested and then eventually go braided throughout, swirlpot etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/59F687B8-B9BF-4095-95EC-3C3E1C05A5D7_zpsyhbe7dnz.jpg)
im not happy with how my painted arms etc came out so will send them all off for media blasting and then go for powder coating. i think black is a little understated also so may go with something a little ........ brighter
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9A34CA44-459E-4355-A1CE-0D85A2DFE8F8_zpsbd7mjeeg.jpg)
started installing the loom, first i tested all the connectors and now i can route the wires as i had planned away from any oil /heat. just as well i did as some of the sensors have died from years of heat abuse, new sensor required here. its the top one behind the water pump housing not entirely sure what to search for as every manual lists it under a different name
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2E095B5B-D9D0-456C-BEB2-B8EF69158CE5_zpsrkw5hsyy.jpg)
wrapped my decat pipe also, the standard clips provided are a bit tat so will replace them with supra clamps when i get a chance.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/4D3CC8D9-F9E0-40FE-89D8-C3F87AE3F7E0_zps7zqwjtka.jpg)
Here is how I spent most of yesterday.
Hurting today!
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Id have unbolted the seat and taken it out personally ! lol!
yes i am a smart a%^e!
VGood progress of late....got a date for fire up?
Those seats have been in and out that many times I promised myself last time never again,
No date for start up as yet, I could have it started in about 4 hours but then I would be tempted to leave everything else and that\'s not my style. All or nothing. Plus I go away for 8 weeks this month so I would be rushing for nothing.
Instead I will get my 10 grand for 8 weeks work and come back with treats for the car.
Must be hard to resist not starting up though aye! Haha. Sounds great for 8 weeks of work :O Mind if I ask what you do?
I\'m a tour truck driver, if a band goes out on tour they probably use us to carry all there gear
Oh thats awesome man! Might have to check that out when I pass my driving test aye! Hahaha
Extremely hard industry to get into and takes a certain breed mate.
I reckon I have another ten years in me before it kills me. Hopefully by then I can et into event management / stage managing .
Probably happen before this damn cars finished
Haha yeah thought it would be. But I hear truck driving in general can be pretty decent for paying the bills aye? Pfft your making good progress bro:Giggle
Nice little build you have going there was a good read! If you have some re-am stickers to sell, let me know :)
So my powdercoater just sent me these images! Safe to say I\'m well happy with the design, just need to decide on the rim bolt colours now, thinking if a chrome black, just super shiny black. The other options are standard chrome , gold or flat black
What do you reckon
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/395F5659-F796-4EDC-A41B-06F76B821A92_zpslxfx6yyf.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/4B319FAB-5D86-42A1-B40D-9974A1F296DB_zpsf08mg2yg.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EE2C34FC-C0F6-472B-BB2C-9E3927D85F8B_zpskol89m1x.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/41E57B06-C912-4A5C-84DE-5EF686DFC2AB_zpszbvr5ttw.jpg)
BLACK!!!!!
Come home to more car parts today only little things but the little things that count. Replaced the sensor that smashed, also got new trim and seals for the front and back screens, came in a really exciting box and was a little disappointing to open up and see
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2FA51FBF-4053-46AF-9965-1B006C497899_zps6zblca4t.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1EB7E5BC-06A2-4449-80B9-99C01998B0A6_zpsjc2nbhb5.jpg)
Well big thanks to sick note my bushes have arrived and the missing ones have been ordered so that is another project to get done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CB17D49E-C642-44F7-9D79-931BDD090431_zpsq10mjpvg.jpg)
Wheels are nearly done now so seeing if I can\'t clean up some of the hardware rather than replace it,
Ultrasonic cleaner is working overtime this month, after cleaning oily engine bits etc it\'s now doing tyre valves
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C65930C0-E419-4AD2-A1E9-80C4919326EB_zpsgnhbfvme.jpg)
Hopefully the wheels will be back before I go out on tour Saturday
whaddup guys, tour has hit birmingham this week so decided to sneak home for a bit, open my mail , wrench on the car a bit.
plans have changed yet again so some stuff will be for sale soon, will do a formal sale soon but if anyone is interested beforehand message me.
new split rim screws and tyre valves turned up, just need to figure a way of installing them without the socket munching them
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C473E128-2C23-425D-9D26-DC5E93D2ACEA_zpsrppo2pgw.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/60DD1E45-6C16-41AE-BAF9-FB7DBC30DBD4_zpsymb3lunw.jpg)
slowly getting things mocked up and fitted
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A4D8A03C-31DE-44E6-A5E8-B57987EED1CA_zpsdyd1xuia.jpg)
rad and intercooler drilled and used rivnut fittings to install
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2AAD37DB-1E3F-431E-9FD6-A66D7B9D8686_zpsyx6zkkuq.jpg)
oil drain from turbo, not ideal but functional
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/70C97299-495E-4287-AD33-E1DDDF911636_zpsyqhuqgfg.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/77A89FF2-E68D-4583-98DB-4F271E78BB6F_zpswomac7mt.jpg)
some of the random :censored::censored::censored::censored: that will be for sale
xrp teflon hose , it was not compatible with my fittings so had to go, lightened flywheel, no good for me as it has no locating dowell holes but if someone wants to machine it it would be good
etc etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C0964032-92D7-455D-B067-6A12BA0ABC19_zpsosvs7pln.jpg)
my apexi pfc , commander and wiring loom may potentially be up for sale soon also, i will be going down the haltech route so will be keeping it all one brand, this may also include my innovate wideband and controller. i will let you al know
all 4 wheels are now coated and back with me, little worried about putting them back together now, dont want to damage the screws or any of the coating
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/94C1E37B-070E-4ADD-B0A6-D77A449B51FF_zpsz0y9sv7h.jpg)
Just got back into the UK after a long while away and have returned with a bit of cash so decided to treat myself,
Just purchased a haltech platinum 1000 with a fully terminated loom and all the sensors required for plug and play,
Needless to say, a pretty penny.
That should come from aus within the next 2 weeks and then I can get a remote base map sorted to check for leaks etc and run the engine in,
That\'s once I have sorted out all the fluid lines anyway
Now that I have a fully terminated loom sorted my loom is no longer required, I haven\'t even managed to test it yet but it will be for sale. This is my awkward situation now as I can\'t really sell something untested so if anyone local to me has a way of testing this for me I can get it sold or offer it out at a discount for testing it for me.
Haltech.setup ...very smart .
Who can map that it in the uk my only concern mate.
Im sure 1 of the tuners can though.
I have put based it through a haltech dealer so I know he can map it, if I am not happy with the tune though I know of at least 3 others that work with haltech
Cool. Cracking ecu. Cars gonna be epic when finished..keep up the good work.
right then progress has been next to non existent recently as i came off the lady gaga tour and literally had 12 hours before going out on the human league tour.
will start with the bad news, i am building this car in my familys factory, the only way to get a car in there is through the wall of the ajoining factory which is remodeeling in january and therefore the car has to be out before then, working or not, so some hydraulic wheel dollies may be required and potentially storage as im not sure i can get it done.
on a lighter note my ECU from haltech should arrive early next week. there will be pictures when that lands from aus.
my main ambition with this build has always been to build the most reliable rotary possible for my budget so i have got this tasty fan to match my mahoosive intercooler and rad. its a 14" kenlowe heavy duty item with 2 speed and thermostatic control .
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E826CF69-21C8-44CE-9CF9-63A4D717B358_zpswxndo7pr.jpg)
will probably never be needed but just in case
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and this is where we are at now, some of the pipe joiners will be swapped out and the entire hose system will be clamped with mikalor clamps by the end of play. i cannot explain just how much better than jubilee clips these things are, love them.
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soooo more mail has arrived
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contents of this box are surplus, O rings are already taken, as it was put up on the facebook group earlier.
if you see something you may need fire me a DM and we wil lsee what we can do
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mmmmmm shiney bits!
so just had the delivery tracking number all my haltech gear is on its way, big thanks to steve at FC tuning for dealing with my silly questions and teasing me with pics every step of the way.
delivery will arrive monday and i have just dropped another wad on the dash,
someone needs to stop me.
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all arrived early, sat on my bed at home all looking pretty.
managed to wangle a couple of days off work so will travel to the unit tomorow onwards and start the final push on the car.
i have made up a list of jobs and niggly parts i need to get and get done, and hopefully i can get most of this done before i have to send it away to get it all wired and mapped etc.
it would be nice to get it all ready to go running up to new year but i just dont think i have the time or experience to get this done.
needless to say if there is anyone local to me that can do said jobs and fancies a few beer tokens or just a good old fashioned car wrenching and beer drinking day let me know.
also if you have any of the parts on my list please let me know.
this is THE list.
PARTS REQUIRED
new throttle cable
air filter
new lower windscreen grille
crystal clear lights / hid kit
vented bonnet
concept 7 headlight covers
interior plastics
pillow ball kit
these will be got on a priority order
JOBS TO DO
rewire alternator / charging loom
make new power loom
install wastegate spring
ecu / lambda wiring
relocate battery
fit throttle body
relocate coils
repair interior plastics if cannot supply
wire fuel pump and install alone
brakes and brake lines all round
drill out wing screws that snapped replace
wire in kenlowe fan kit
install inner arches
replace front and rear screen seals (do at respray)
fit inline fuel filter
full fluid flush and swap
fit polybush all round
assemble split rims
powdercoat standard rims (winter wheels)
air ducting for rad / oil coolers
then its a simple matter of farty jobs i have missed or are niggling me
soooo i told the boss i need a bit of time off before the madness kicks off again january 3rd and he agreed so off now until then. BUT now i have to get the car done, heres todays frivolities for you.
feel free to point, laugh, feel for me
started the day with my mate picking me up to go out shopping, note, this mate has a horrific history with cars and cars hating him that shows no sign of stoppin. even with this in mind he buys the worst possible cars. i know EVERY car i have ever owned hates me so i will buy something nice, reliable, well built , practical, something that cannot fail
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CFFE5D8E-0DBE-45E8-A2AC-5B03DE25B273_zpsgez323d0.jpg)
yep well done! a car built in england, cracking idea. this guy needs to get into rx7 ownership, he obviously loves to be punished.
all fired up and slightly high off a overfueling, badly timed, missing lump of pig iron i came back to the workshop to realise im actually going backwards taking things OFF the car again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D45678D3-071E-4CF6-9F28-C33F8B88FD82_zpsr0nnuhfy.jpg)
this picture depressed me so i spent a good hour on facebook trying to con people into helping me or even just taking the car and finishing it. no one bit so i just tidied up a bit
decided to get into fan wiring mode, fire extinguishers at the ready and instructions in hand i took a photo and then freely got distracted by bits in the garage i need to sell (see upcoming thread)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7D6B95AF-F7C7-4A73-8318-359DDA7DD2A7_zpsbk7grsgo.jpg)
tested the paint v powdercoat methods on a few parts. i think this looks the shit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A5532330-D339-4AA4-97DE-E71815E8C1D4_zpsf8gcx5jb.jpg)
ahhh its that time of year when even indoors with strip lighting its still not quite bright enough
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after realising that in 7 hours i had achieved bugger all i got depressed again and got to the point i am at now. a long list of things to do and no time to do them so if anyone wants to volunteer skills / time i will happily pay per job done on the car. need to get this out of the factory before i go out on tour and the more i can get done isnide the bettter that way when it does come out i dont have to pay a company to do jobs that should be done already..
roll call people man down and in need!!
ps. the parts for sale, cheap as cheaper if you can collect
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1ED753A6-1C76-4F77-B105-B3925E553C69_zpst468pdql.jpg)
powdercoated lim,y pipe, crossover
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flywheel , no use to me as no dowell holes in it
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my wiring loom, made by me and friend, simplified single, cant remember if i wired in the OMP. either way its spares or repairs as its untested. well over £300 in materials and labour alone.
one connection has been damaged, and im not too happy with the position of the bulkhead grommet, it leaves the water connections a bit tight but it could easily be built into a very nice loom or you could strip it for the connections and heat shielding etc
up to you
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sooo straight back to the workshop for a bit more work today,
installed my lovely christmas present from the girlfriend, some concept 7 reflector blanks
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/51362A46-44BE-4196-8723-B7BF0DF8DC65_zpseyzxqzcz.jpg)
i got sick of working on the car and watching the dust pile up on my lil baby. so a quick dust off was in order
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then it was time to bite the bullet and try to figure out some of the remaining wiring,
i will be puttting up a seperate thread to try get some of the wiring gurus help but for anyone reading this these are my issues
firstly i need to re do all the ancillary earth straps, which will be fun
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then i need to find a way of bypassing this whole mess, i know most people just tape it to the battery and use it but i want to delete it and maybe replace it with some aftermarket fuse box block. from what i can gather it mostly fuses stuff in the front horseshoe harness and fuel pump etc most of which will be deleted or hardwired in induvidually.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6119D80D-DA5E-4D53-9215-2C2794112092_zpsanv5fu12.jpg)
there is also the problems of my power loom simplification and battery relocate. i have drawn up a basic diagram of what i think i need but if anyone else can add to this please do i am bound to have missed something
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F3B584B9-02E1-4261-96D6-109CABA26A15_zpsekhonxid.jpg)
then theres the ignition / charging control loom.
i will be using the haltech loom and ecu so most of this loom is redundant but there are a few things that i will still need that connect into the front horseshoe loom. i am not entirely sure what some of the connectors do but i did a quick drawing of what i think i need.
again if anyone can think of anything else that the haltech dont cover or i have missed please let me know.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F3B584B9-02E1-4261-96D6-109CABA26A15_zpsekhonxid.jpg)
now i am running a aftermarket fan i can get rid of the fan control loom and 4 relays on the drivers side of the bay., at least i think i can. whilst i am simplifying this loom is there anything else i can pull out..
thanks in advance everyone
so phoned up to get insurance back on the car today, pleasantly suprised.
went with adrian flux with ALL mods declared, european cover, breakdown. legal cover, protected NCB etc etc £580.
i would call that a result, anywaaay. for the god knows how many day in a row i turned up at the car with no mechanic and no clue what i am doing so just farted around doing piddly jobs that i can handle.
one thing i was getting sick of was seized/rusted or snapped screw / bolts so today i went through every thread in reach within the bay with a tap to try clean the threads out, each thread then got a squeeze of spray copper grease (this shit gets everywhere) and was reinstalled. little things like this i think make the difference on a car build.
would love to show you a smooth surface with all new bolts and anodised washers but DM dan is still on holiday and im not painting around exposed bits
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/08C902D9-A47B-446D-B9F7-95F2DB3B37F3_zpszjtiq7uf.jpg)
i have also spent the last week trying to find some sheet metal but apparently no one works over christmas or new year,
one person who does work is my mate kevin at ALM electrics. he got me a few connectors that will be needed to update the haltech loom , and i took him all my power loom measurements etc etc. got me a new busbar aswell for the battery relocation
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/33809E13-C7C7-436B-89BA-F96A2DCA91DE_zpsgqgog79s.jpg)
not sure if i trust this earth strap any more so thats getting replaced pronto aswell as every other earth in the car
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CB8B6E91-D13A-4E71-B274-438BB444721E_zps6bs1cdm7.jpg)
another thing that was bugging me was 20+ year old trim clips and bumper/splitter hangers etc pinging off or going missing or having the resilience of a wet noodle so got a load of assorted trim clips, push clips screw clips etc etc ready for a blitz
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F32D422C-4349-4292-A56C-8CFE357FA5B6_zpspemvfvbx.jpg)
put this one on the super special FDUK members facebook group and people identified it as a fuel pump step down resistor. i.e for the bin as i am planning a hardwired fuel pump like the internet how to's guides people keep arguing over. but this got me thinking.
1) how does the fuel pump know when to go / stop slow down etc
2) how do i do a proper job, bona fide' awesome pump reliability never break mod???
any help on this will be awesome
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D1713443-ED4A-40AB-9B78-56D37713C590_zpsxp7cqwit.jpg)
slowly running out of things i can do now so have started looking at spending more money. its amazing how the budget for this "scruffy pup" build is exponential
sooo finally my tiger seal has arrived so i can start assembling my wheels again. soooo excited
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also collected the first of my replacement earth leads / straps. crimped and tinned gas tight etc etc
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continued on with the whole tapping threads on bolts that i wont replace. i am replacing about 100 bolts but dont want to go too far, these are off the anti roll bar that i have pulled off for painting
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replacing all the vac lines also as i am a tart
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and because i am getting rid of most of my power wiring i have had to seperate certain bits and hide others. this is the connector that goes into the main power fuse box in the bonnet, the one where the egi etc are located. i think it is tatty and old and the connections are shocking so i am redoing it in my own fuse box. will re end these with ring terminals and into my new fuse box
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new fuse box and fuses in what will be a sealed case with rubber grommets on the openings
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so paint has dried on the ARB so that got put back on today,
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with these installed for good measure
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painted chrome shiny parts in the only possible colour for this build
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and my concept 7 goodies arrived also, not entirely sure how the rear quarter light blanks fit but that will be my body work guys issue
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told amy she could play with the dremel if she put my split rims back together.
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and then together we got 2 bolted up and a bit of tiger seal in there to airtight the whole lot, put excess in and the remainder can be cleaned off when dry.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CAAF3092-923C-4410-BAE6-3B56E813B59F_zpskjhiy0tg.jpg)
and tonight me and my friend are tackling more wiring. yay
Looking real good and the wheels are very nice, your lucky Amy had that much patiance to sort them for you :angel1:
Its this time of year I wish I had enough garage space to have the car indoors ! Looks like some really good progress ;D
Shaun
Cheers guys unfortunately we are hitting a bit of a brick wall, my mechanic is becoming ever more unreliable and we are at the stage now where it all gets a bit complicated. There was several jobs I wanted to get done before getting it outside but time is against me,
My mapper Steve at FC tuning has kindly offered to take the car as is and complete it and then do the mapping etc whilst I'm away and whilst I wanted to avoid that routine (MONEY!!!!!) I think it may be my only option if I want it running this year.
I have a A4 page of jobs to do just to get it ready to go on a trailer and now less than 4 days to do it so as you can imagine I'm stressing slightly,.
so today was the day i lost my patience, home, work and everything in between is pissing me right off and the car is tripling it. and i mean on everything, use the rattle gun and its battery charger explodes. paint something the paint reacts
organise for a mechanic to come out and finish whats been started and he has the flu, and my deadline is pretty much up. so the decision has been made for my tuner steve at FC tuning to complete the engine hookup, wiring mapping etc and get it back to me when its able to actually drive and then i can complete it..
that leaves me 4 days to get as much done as i can to save money and also make sure nothing falls off when its on the trailer.
here is one little example of why i have run out of time. i decided to buy a RW throttle body and elbow DESIGNED FOR THIS CAR!
problem one the throttle position sensor is out of line with the mechanism with about 20' of movement before it even contacts the sensor trigger.
problem two the elbow is scary close to the brake lines.
problem three,need to fabricate a guide and locator for the actual throttle cable
problem four, when its all mounted it sits exactly where the strut brace is.
great (censored)ing design
add to that parts suppliers in the uk that take over a month to send a item, i am currently chasing up 4 seperate parts.
yet japanese and australian parts are ALWAYS here within a fourtnight.
no wonder some of your projects are over 5 years old. you spend all your time waiting for parts and when they do arrive modifying them so they actually fit or having to buy more parts that make the original part fit
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK
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Don't worry about it, things will come together in the end. What makes the deadline set in stone ?
The elbow just looks completely wrong, even looks too big on the pipe pick-up. The Greddy elbow lands lower and above the power steering line to pickup pointing in a similar direction to the plastic oem one.
Shaun
Had a quick look at the RW Throttle and elbow and lists that designed for later gen fd? Unsure if this your issue.
Appreciate project taking it toll on you and trust me ive been there! The paint reacted on my axle too this week and its turned into some sort of bitumen goo...lol.
I cant weld so i have to wait for my mate too come so im couldnt get my car rolling...stick with it bud but when your getting no enjoyment just do summit else....its been 6 months since i crashed my freshly finished project and defo been some high n lows....it will be worth it in the end and you will be proud of your achievements! Lowest point for me loading a 2 wheeled car onto a trailer in the pissing rain on my own....i was cussing for about 1.5 hrs....the time it took to load!
Stick with it bud!
Will the problem with the elbow be the same with the stock throttlebody? I was thinking of getting that elbow but now im not so sure
Had the same issue when i had my FD, had to revert back to the Greddy Elbow, also had to change throttle Cable and bracket, and modified the fast idle screw as well. hope this helps
Does not fit the stock tb at all but the old greddy style elbow that's full of holes fits just right, so I can either chop and spin this new one or weld up the holes on the old greddy style one.
Spoke to some people and apparently it's designed for hard / race use where a proper strut brace not oe is used or none at all
From what ive read it will fit stock tb if u delete the thermowax and that coolant-bs, Already have those deleted but i dont wanna ditch the strutbrace. So im wondering if it will still interfere? AND what LIM are u using?
I'm the throttle body where the thermo pellet mounts there is a little bit of metal that extends out , it's part of the throttle body itself that catches so it still won't fit unless you grind that down but then I think your breaking into vacuam areas.
Standard LIM just played with the inside of it.
some of my images are broken due t photobucket not being intelligent when i organised them, sorry
let the fun commence!
my stupid expensive wheel dollies doing there thing and moving the car into position to get it out the factory
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hired a car and 18ft low level car trailer ready for the drive down to london and started packaging parts inside that the garage might need.
now i just need to get hold of a shit ton of money
car packed up and ready to go down to london friday, but first we have to take the wall down and try to do a million point turn on the dollies to get through to the outside.
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got me a big 4x4 and a 18ft tilting trailer with winch so that should make it easier
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So yesterday this happened, found a place in the West Midlands that got me a 4x4 a 18ft tilt bed trailer and insurance for £150 over a day and a half. Bargain I think.
So the wall came out lovely and quick ( I didn't put it back up right after I got the car in)
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Soooo had loaded the car and got it out into the workshop car park, went to lock it up so I could go get the car and trailer from the depot and *thump* the lock barrel just pushed through the handle.
Looks like someone had just plastic cement the lock barrel to the handle from the inside. No clip holding the barrel in and my car has no lock on the passenger side,( previous owner had smoothed the handle) so now my car was outside with about 3 grands worth of parts on show alone while I had to go get the trailer.
Come back and the car was all still there, ( I think the thieving oiks round here get suspicious to things that are too good to be true) and spent forever loading her up on my own.
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After a fairly interesting drive through high winds and such I finally got to redline motorsport / fc tuning and had a long talk with the boys there and had a nose at some of there other projects.
I am impressed at there work rate and knowledge and happy with my choice.
They have done me a favour letting me take the car down there as they are fully booked up right now but as you know I'm straight outa time.
Got back home to find parts had arrived that the boys at redline need bloody typical, can deal with that another day anyway.
So that's me finished last night at about 9 and then jumped straight in the truck and off out on tour.
I will give you updates as and when they come. The car is scheduled to be worked on in February.
My dm goodies big thanks to dan for sorting that out
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C7EC4931-77BA-414D-99A7-361D00D81E7B_zpsful4tiep.jpg)
And this will be my new power steering cooler, just a hollow tube but a massive amount of surface area with those heat sink style fins
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CB156F01-EF4C-43A7-BFF6-7A59C76AF4E6_zpsdhosocet.jpg)
See you soon my poor baby
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BFBE5EAF-5F83-4F3B-B0E4-55E7AE5CA661_zpsfktouhnt.jpg)
so my silly expensive wheel dollies are now for sale, as has been said earlier in the thread ifty has first refusal, if they are still here in april colum gets them but for now ifty isnt answering his phone so there up for sale collection only from redditch. i paid £260 plus shipping which is cheap if you look around
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3FC56EC3-632A-4994-9106-2DFB2D051896_zps5vbbix6i.jpg)
so having been used once i think £190 collected from redditch is fair. im in no desperate need to sell these but if they will help someone out id rather them go to said person.
i will be selling these and replacing them with a nice sgs low entry jack, got to say the kit they knock out for the prices they do is proper.
no updates on the car yet as the guys are uber busy down in the garage and i have been touring non stop trying to keep the mrs happy, she is talking mortgages now so work is a priority (mainly so i dont have to hear her natter on about "oooh this house is nice")
Looks like the car maybe ready for a little of show season, just got off the phone with the guys and there work is slowing down now so once Easter is out the way and they have installed some new ramps etc it's time to crack on with mine.
Getting a full run down of what will be done and costs in the next day or two but I estimate maybe 30-40 hours work max. Including the breaking in etc.
I have requested that once running they put a few road miles on her for actual resistance and shakedown kind of tests and then do a overnighter rolling road break in.
Even typing this my bank balance is crying, this will cost me big time
so i finally have a day off and no car to work on but i do have bits so went on a cleaning rampage today and decided to do the rx8 into rx7 starter motor job, no idea if it works as i have no way of testing it but it looks good
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9E76AF0C-EB3F-4B2C-9951-A9E06987C925_zpsc4noylmr.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1CA44737-2824-4590-AB12-800B4D563EDB_zpsrbvdjlqh.jpg)
yummy
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/0012DCC4-B17D-4F8C-9734-9C7B8533A156_zpskue3tzam.jpg)
looks a bit like a sting ray
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/19C9E94C-C24E-47B4-8941-D47B5933365F_zpsc17zxlss.jpg)
cleannnnnnn
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EEDEC08A-7B65-41B2-B0D0-09443B8149CF_zpslj3oqwcd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C6C4787E-A3DE-43E7-BCBE-693766042606_zpsluvnlcgn.jpg)
no wonder this one was slow, full of thick grease that had got wet and congealed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BC8F4CC0-5B66-4A6C-95FB-A90F8E060B1B_zpsk4qja7fw.jpg)
job done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F2230534-105A-48D7-9C82-175E8B6ACA98_zpshvzuhe8n.jpg)
as i still have no car and finally have a day off i dragged the mrs down to the unit to help me assemble and seal my split rims , tidy up the kick plates and i started plotting speaker mounts in the doors and rebuilding a strong parcel shelf. also had to try and mock up some new air valves that would fit the dish of the rim
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A4606B51-0F5F-4BB4-A8BD-D2135CDE0291_zpsvkzppwko.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/55E66AAD-F996-44B4-844D-A9000F65785D_zps08gtjwow.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AA06F600-E339-40D1-8FF4-38BD604F23B0_zpseryhr7lw.jpg)
she is gonna be PISSED when she opens the safe next
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7D67847C-7379-49EA-98A0-3F5199691DCF_zpszewyyahq.jpg)
Back at work now but before I did come back I did a bit more, got the wheels all buttoned up apart from one where I am missing 10 nut and bolts. I was sure I counted them when I got them but hey ho, that's another order from Germany and they only do multiples of 50 "le sigh"
I also got hold of a parcel shelf as mine was missing unfortunately it was a Bose model, this wasn't to much of a issue as I always planned on re-lining it to a blacker thicker material.
So as the shelf was rather flimsy I lines it with some board on the top and covered it in a foam to give it a softer touch. I may also add some weight / deadening to keep it from resonating in the future.
This is how far I got
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/55B31233-41E0-4D9E-9E4C-D3311F0C3755_zps0zgp1vkm.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A8ADA5B7-7926-4B07-8B5B-8B5A217F867D_zpsl4q4pul3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C75D0939-A947-4785-AD9D-528F397EDFD9_zpspllu5ljk.jpg)
I was going to emboss a design on it or install vinyl covered sections but I think the subtle route is better
soooo
continued on with the parcel shelf covering, obviously i am no master trimmer, the cuts and glueing are awful but from a distance and from the top it looks good
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/42A52E78-28D2-4921-A5F7-BE51DB9FCED4_zpstpt2khps.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BC8DAEA5-71D1-4F39-B95A-DBAE1CADEEB4_zpsnt31vvf7.jpg)
and because I'm a bit of a tart and have a purple thing going on i replaced the nasty looking black strings to lift it with purple braided leather
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6A512049-C6A1-4FFD-B7C1-C5FCE4C98C99_zpso2shvmyb.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F4FA9E20-87E3-4D43-962E-629C45BBD769_zpstoztmpk6.jpg)
got the tyres sorted and wheels bolted up and then had a nightmare
no one was willing to touch them as they were scared of damaging them and had issues with the valve placement
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/24383D0B-A494-4808-83AA-E1DACF1D0392_zps1nuopumf.jpg)
i had replaced the valves with what i thought where the same ones but they were not the valve bolts on the inside and there is quite a length of excess which the bead would not be able to get over. that is more of a problem as the tyres have to be mounted on the wheels backwards due to the face lip being 18" which will not work obviously.
after 6 hours and hitting up all the tyre shops i found a guy who would try. it was a bit of a ball ache but we got it sorted once he got his head round reverse mounting and directional tread.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A92B598B-2040-4CD5-A7EE-013EB399BA77_zpsygigfikk.jpg)
so looking at my wheels today i have realised that the colour match is actually awfull and there is not a lot i can do about it.
this leaves me with a problem do i leave it as is and deal with it, try find a colour match and paint it or paint the centres black???
most of this is down to the flash on the camera
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/998948D9-120C-4E4A-B6FC-1750D7C7EB2C_zpsr6xxi7fk.jpg)
also have a few of the black chrome bolts left over if anyone is doing anything similar
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C9C1F001-3455-4834-87D4-BA9B2C7648F6_zpsimnfdhnn.jpg)
also started planning my audio build and the rx7 doors are horrific for this so i started building block off panels for the big holes, i will insert threaded rivnuts to make them removable and sound deaden the back of them when i get the car back and have a better handed template
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D256A459-B1A7-4749-AE7A-137874DA0544_zpsjr6a9386.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/963D875E-7246-442F-86DC-D28AA9C00C90_zpsjsyewqyg.jpg)
bit of a test panel but yeah it worked well ,will obviously trim it all up and maybe use more layers on the actual piece, the contours have all caught well and should be a good seal with a bit of dry silicone as a buffer.
Not been so busy this week apart from spending silly money on parts, got water injection sorted . My rad caps have finally arrived, my mechanics have been keeping in touch with bits and bobs and I just ordered a set of coilovers off Patrick at quantum racing suspension.
I think I should rest my bank account for a little while now
right as ever no real progress as i have been away and its all in the hands of a rather busy mechanic but i did come home from months of touring to parcels.
uber expensive but awesome cool zilla gear knob
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/03390771-0226-4DC5-A4C8-44E241C4618A_zpslr9zcp2x.jpg)
thanks to matt p got myself a water injection kit. missing a tank and controller but bargain price, plus my ecu can control it as standard and i would have got me a diffrent tank anyway
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/B65F61B7-3999-4EB1-B3BB-A194DD1B9914_zpsaun1jjvb.jpg)
new tank and many litres of water meth mix
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C01EB78B-8CD7-42C9-9B5C-DB1BAF7C9137_zpsirpkg7kw.png)
send me all your stickers im going to cover this thing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8B85F4C5-3A59-41A0-9C48-576EDBD9B6BB_zpsqcjobfyk.jpg)
Ah ha, so does this kit mean your looking for serious boost then ;),
Keep the pictures coming , great detailed build :)
I wasn't going to at first but the project seems to keep progressing! I am now buying parts to future proof my build also
so my mate who constantly mocks me for having a jackstand car popped round last night and got my car building urges going again,
he owns a toyota mr2 that looks like dog dirt has been painted with a roller and blackboard paint and is half inch thick with quarry dust, BUT the money he does spend all goes into the workings, probably the best set up car i have ever been in, no boy racer mods just improves lightly on the factory research and development, standard sized wheels etc. maybe a bit more power at 400+
ANYWAY a challenge has been set so even more upgrades for the car
big thanks to tom today great seeing another enthusiast locally, sorted myself out with yet another bumper / splitter . spats etc and a couple of other things...
hopefully once i have finished this tour the car should be nearly done, if not a few local guys have volunteered and i now have the money together to see some specialists so yeah exciting times. watch this space
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F8E00A7E-5047-418C-AEF7-ACEA7BD12036_zpsbmtfbmxc.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5704EAB3-F4FE-4EA0-BE88-92079A9CA794_zpscmgpinut.jpg)
think i will mount this externally somehow but thats way in the future, will get it running first
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/DABAAFE8-B90D-40C4-8455-66746C855492_zpspklardl9.jpg)
Looking good! :)
Postie has been today, just need to sort out some top mounts from somewhere, so far dealers are a no go, secondhand all look very worn and even normal suppliers are dry. Anyone else running a similar set up or know where to source new / good pattern top mounts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/65B8EA5C-87A6-413F-BE29-9F0AFDBDDB43_zpsw4sryvg8.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/04570C5B-B839-45D2-94E3-EF1DD0D4A08E_zpsmqxa520v.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BE225810-C95E-4373-9CF3-830DD6944351_zpsum9zxni1.jpg)
So at 01:30 am this very day my engine turned over and fired for the first time in nearly 3 years!
After a couple of turns to check pressures et. It fired right up and for somethin that has been sat freshly rebuilt for 3 years it sounded great, so happy right now
Sweet! :wee_hee:
Lots of noise and smoke made mikey very happy
Getting back at home at 4am with no car still makes me less happy
Argggggggggggg, what happend :(
garage staff undertaking a bit more than they can chew, lack of communication, leaky braided lines, exploding oil sandwich plates you name it we had it,
BUT
my engine builder is a god, started first time after sitting for 3 years, sounded great , the haltech took to it very quickly and my god does it sund like its got compression!
Youve come this far bud....just a bit more patience. Give the garage a few more days to iron out any niggles...you dont want to be finding them on drive home!
The end is nigh though! Welldone! :whoo:
been a week from hell with this bloody car, i know all projects suffer at the final stages but this is ridiculous. it has got me so down right now. i will run this post in order though
so the deadline was approaching and the guys had got nowehere near where i wanted the car to be at so i was ready to just go and get it as i was getting fed up and nice shiny parts where arriving, anyway i went down there and we fired the engine, bang on first time all sweet and lovely but there was just too many niggly items left to do that prevented me bringing it back so we agreed i would return 2 days later.
all that had to be done was a brake bleed, replace a blown slave cylinder and a base map , good to go
new toys arriving
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/452C3B0B-06FA-4715-99DD-79204CE3D565_zpszen18lqe.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A64B5B13-8484-4E27-9E10-66523F34CD00_zpsuwj7qmen.jpg)
few pipes being made up in hard pipe etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/36626532-E8DD-45B0-B362-C158814D805F_zps7o1ydisi.jpg)
new filler from TGS with solid hard pipe to rad
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D4E82FA0-BFFF-4160-B9D2-18E3365B2948_zpsjwv4u158.jpg)
then the oil sandwich plate failed as did every single fuel line so they all got replaced for the 3rd time
and it was idling, running etc etc base map loaded all the failsafes set so we didnt break anything and then continued assembly
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/09BCE398-529B-434C-AD04-B6AF3584A3B3_zpsqyveq5vo.mp4
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AAC6A194-4E6C-4A86-AF30-11B82D80F40A_zpssqbap190.mp4
leaks and pressure tests in progress etc etc
springs arrived and could fully assemble my new suspension so that made me happy again
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/65CC6F2C-24A5-42EF-BAB8-3A2198810997_zpsucgj8jpo.jpg)
and she looked and sounded beautiful went through the gears on the ramp clutch was good, gears all good but still only half the rad was getting hot and it seemed like no flow, no leaks loads of pressure, didnt make sense so we spent ages burping it,
nothing, discovered the brand new thermostat was junk so we got rid just for testing purposes and was still having the same problem , spent hours burping the car and was getting air all the time but seemed to just be going in circles. checked the rad to make sure it wasnt blocked, blew through the top tube water came flying out the bottom, so no problem there, same with bottom tube to water housing no blockage, just no flow,
the water pump pulley is spinning just fine, and is fitted with a underdrive belt and pulley system so maybe throught it was under / over speeding but would expect some flow at least,
i know the water pump blades are metal on these so now i am totally clueless as to what it could be i have set up another topic on the subject and everyone seems to be saying the same, air lock but we burped it for hours, just makes no sense to me,
oh and the engine is still running fine, plugs are dry coolant is clean, if anything the only issue we have is flooding the plugs due to constant starting and stopping to keep temps sensible.
so yeah i have no fricking idea right now
ok since i have been home and trying to take my mind off my car attempting to boil itself i have started playing around with my new in car multimedia set up,
received my new mini itx case, with quad core processor and a basic set up, also installed a solid state drive to ensure vibration doesnt kill it and a in car power supply which senses ignition, waits 2 seconds then boots, full windows boot up is sub 10 seconds.
it will power the pc as normal but when the ignition is turned off the system will shut down safely, i can program the power supply to either full shut down and power cut or hibernate making a quick resume easier on short trips.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A43D5330-FD08-4FCD-B646-DE5A9E2695B2_zpsiluydul5.jpg)
did a quick mock up with a normal psu and vga cable and loaded all my haltech software onto it and some media playing software. tested the screen on my tivo box with hdmi and it looked incredible. obviously resolutions have to be played with here
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/39C04B6B-2F13-4DA1-BA39-D4F5BFEB1F9E_zpsab7mv6hq.jpg)
now the screen itself can run on anything from 3v to 24v and is fitted with a dc jack but i want the screen to turn on and auto sense source with the computer so found a power supply set up on the control board but could not find a connector to suit for love nor money so in the end i quickly knocked one up. i will obviously make this lead properly when fitted but its just a standard USB lead positive and negative into a 4 pin connector with 2 pins stripped out. a stable 5v on system power up.
monitor control board has this handy power in
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/31CB8E08-BEB5-4C41-AC65-E459E114CAE2_zps0h4fxv0z.jpg)
the cable i quickly knocked up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1E1BB573-81C6-42F3-B619-C39EC073F4FA_zpsc7urmkfx.jpg)
sooooo
those who go on the fduk facebook page know that i went down south and got my car back this week.
i wasnt happy with the progress being made, costs were spiralling and to be honest the work was piss poor.
i got them to get it to a state where it was able to drive and i got it back.
i have had a quick look round and there is a variety of horrors to put right, but right now i am still having problems with the cooling and the alternator. t
the alternator is properly fudged so thats being rebuilt hopefully tomorrow.
what isnt helping is a half dead battery in the morning and a base map that is already very tough to start the car on from cold anyway, this makes for lots of whirring starters, swearing and gun shot style backfires for my lovely neighbours,
as for the coolant, at first the angle of the belt was too shallow and wasnt getting much purchase and then when it did it was just sliding on a smooth pulley so i put the old underdrive back on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D51516DB-D3F7-40BD-8659-93E309F7BB16_zpsch7l6h5r.jpg)
you can see here how shallow it is and the cuts i had to try and put in to get it home
after a short while of traditional bleeding from the old throttle body coolant line we had a car responding as you would expect, temp was rising, thermostat opening and fans cooling and repeat.
it all worked well for a day and then a small traffic jam brought it back again.
same again top up the water squeeze some pipes get a bit of air and tp up again.
luckily i had some pulleys hanging around, so the dm underdrive went back on
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FF7CD38E-CB4A-4219-9687-A78C21EE5AFF_zpsndhikva9.jpg)
trouble is we are just chasing it round. after a bit of advice off facebook we have come to the conclusion that the rad definitely needs a bleed valve. i was going to tap one in today but after looking at the rad the skin looks a little too thin to do this so now i am left with very little choice.
the only option i think i have is finding someone who can tig weld ali and get them to weld a boss on drill it to make a nice bleed hole and run it to the ast . or i could cut a thread in the welded boss and install a ali bleed screw.
finding a local ali welder is proving to be a bit of a challenge at the moment.
i know its all to be expected on a modified rebuild, shaking down the engine and curing the problems but i just dont seem to be catching a break with this car. one thing after another.
Could you get a solid pipe with a bleed into the top rad hose? But ideally need to sort the cause not the symptom. Ive seen this rad fittings in Demon Tweeks cat.
i thought about that but i think it would still be lower than the top of the rad due to the top hose aiming down. the other thing i contemplated was one of these lol,...
http://www.easibleed.co.uk/video/4572089443
in all seriousness though i dont think that would have a fine enough thread or enough material to grab onto
Not sure mate....Clive a few threads back suggested swapping out the tgs filler. I think i would be trying this or at least giving them a call. Your not getting enough flow and/or aerating water. Fitting a bleed on top of the rad that you open to atmosphere will be a pain as youll continually be bleeding it....other option is a small 8mm hose tail welded on top of rad hose to filler again with a 8mm tail welded on...rad would self bleed then. But it shouldnt be doing so im more incline to treat the cause not the system.....that filler looks suspect no1 to me.
I think I have found the problem and either I'm being very stupid and it's right or the guy who assembled it is very stupid.
Bear with me.
So the rad has no bleed, that's an issue and it will be sorted BUT I have a tgs ast delete filler, that is perfect except the mechanic routed a hose from it to the factory plastic expansion tank, lovely I thought until I looked at the cap. It's a 0.9 bar rad cap. Surely for this to work the water expands, and pushes out down to the expansion tank past this cap, but it will not draw back in due to the cap closing when pressures released.
So in theory if I got rid of the pressure cap,filled the filler bled it and then put a flat seal filler cap on the ast delete that would seal allow expansion and contraction into the expansion tank and bleed off air into the expansion tank separating it from the system??
Or am I being incredibly stupid
Soz mate you got to have pressure regulated cap ....with flat cap water will flow straight out as hole wont be sealed. If it is sealed and excess pressure builds something will blow rad water seal heater matrix or a hose. I was under impressue fd has no rad bleed on top of rad like the rx8 has as it has the ast tank? . The expansion tank is purely that excess pressure/ heat cap lifts....if level low vacuum draws fluid back up into system from expansion tank.
Give tgs a ring theres summit wrong with the plumbing.
What might be easier is to do a drawing of current set up and post on here.
car is doing my head in, its my own fault for getting impatient and sending it out to a garage, should have continued myself and completed the project.
so i know the alternator has gone and im in the process of fixing that.
i know the coolant system has gremlins, again i am in the process of fixing that.
a suprise oil leak has appeared, on my mother in laws driveway
today i went out to move the car as it was in the way and as per usual it didnt start. i am used to this with a (censored)ed battery and no alternator but normally after a bit of charging it will fire reluctantly
(it only struggles as its on a base map, cold weather and no battery)
today it just did not want to play ball though. i noticed that the fuel reg gauge was showing priming pressure as normal and then dropping to 0 instantly.
i was not sure if this was normal so opened up the laptop to inspect the priming times and such.
i wasnt sure if something had happened so reverted back to a auto backup from a known good day. the fans came on and both the coolant and air temp sensors started flashing like mad showing massive impossible values of like 300' so now the car definately wont start.
so in summary, its not driveable, not completed, pissing on the battle axes driveway with no battery or battery charger and every time i try to turn the ignition to look the fans kick in on full speed and everything flashes angrily at me and makes me want to burn it.
how was your day
You gotta draw a line....start again...i know how frustrated you are ...i spent 2 months looking for a misfire lol. Weve all been there....but the matches down.
Buy a new battery.
Who is your nearest proper rotary speciast . The likes of Hayward. Jimmys WGT guys with a wealth of fd experience its bread and butter to them. Id get a rx7 specialist to finish....and if you need to take a 2 week break....
Your location is not in your profile where abouts are you?
im based in Redditch mate, just south of Birmingham. i did take it to a japanese "specialist" and had to recover the car from them after 11 months and nothing but shoddy work.
i am now just spending all my time tracking down there mistakes,
things like
all of the power connections, grounds, etc where finger tight if that
the oil coolers where hooked up wrong
the boot ground was a angle grinder taken to the paint and then a oversized bolt
the battery relocation runs through the bulk head loose, no grommet.
and the list goes on and on and on
its got to the point where i am a little ashamed of taking it to a mechanic in case they think i did these things to it.
i am hoping once i weld a bleed valve or two into the rad and fit my electric water pump that will be the coolant woes over with.
the ecu farting about today i hope is just a sensor that has got wet. but yes your right i need to chill for a bit and take a step back
For the sensor to read max sounds like open circuit poss harness plug connection or such like. Dont know what safety protocols are on your haltech that may be shutting it down. Who is you closest? Wgt?
thats what i thought, cheers dude, it had been raining a real fine rain whilst i was working on the car and they have been subject to lots of coolant so a very probable cause.
i will go on a dry out session tomorow
so other than the other stuff mentioned in my specialists rant thread i started tracing the starter motor issues and doing a complete rewire today.
i think we may have a slight issue within this starter
mmmmm this looks healthy, remember this is a brand new rx8 starter that i put the rx7 nose cone on, it was immaculate when it went on
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7D409503-6E1D-4381-B7FE-73DF7C2C7E79_zpsdxvydvaz.jpg)
turns out the ebay vendor is famous for selling shit and chinese rip offs even other companies faulty returns and selling them as new. and when questioned he really gets quite offensive,
so i stripped it down today and found that the push fork was not engaging the cog all the way, in fact just the corner of the teeth were catching,
so rebuild and grease up time.
whilst i am doing that i am going to investigate the wiper motor, the mechanic unplugged it telling me that it got so hot he thought it would catch on fire,
i had not seen his chocking wiring at that point but thought it was best to strip and investigate this also.
soooooo i now face a complete rewire as i have NO faith in what the mechanics did to my car, rubbing wires, bad crimps etc etc so fine tooth comb time
classy wiring
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/02293CFD-A78A-4959-A438-818330F46496_zpsyuaxfczt.jpg)
this twitches my cringe gland
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/25C113FF-E0C4-40BB-BE34-5AFED396FA4F_zpscjkl0c14.jpg)
now i have done a lot of research and have found all the usual sticky links to the subject but has anyone got a comprehensive list of what can be removed from the horseshoe loom when running single turbo and haltech ecu. i want to attack and relocate eveything but not go as far as the mega money motamec PDM motorsport goodness.
any help is appreciated
started on wiper motor inspection,
looks like theres been a tiny bit of ingress and the grease has got hot and aged but i wouldnt say anything t cause it running hot unless of course the wiring is fried,
cleaned everything up, cleaned the brushes etc and repacked with some light grease
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F4E9B943-BE2B-4D76-BFCF-38579C0E0326_zpsqbkcrjof.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D21C0256-6AEE-4AAC-ABB2-CEF1E77F5B2A_zpsmh4fpsiw.jpg)
cool wiper stop method in these
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7ADD4130-4CB1-40D1-B825-6B94743A3389_zpshwefkrqy.jpg)
hoping a lighter wheight grease will ease it off
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/02408C66-848E-4868-B1D5-CD41CD69B024_zpsdzjsssua.jpg)
starter stripped and cleaned up a little bit, will do full inspection later find out where all that metallic swarf came from
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F434A07D-A7BA-4E29-A197-61E07073F1F7_zpsmhi4xwbf.jpg)
a little bit better than it was
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2509FCBD-07D7-42C8-A368-267EE8D46B67_zpsswdguq7m.jpg)
right so stripped my NEW starter motor down, remember i purchased a rx8 starter BRAND NEW swapped the nose cone for a rx7 cone and installed it,
since then it has started the car maybe 8 times and started grumbling on the last one,
so the top end all seemed ok, maybe a little more worn then i would have liked but OK.
i cleaned it all up and was just going to pjut it back together without checking the motor because hey 8 turnovers,,,, right.
passed my nose over it, whats that smell! needless to say i think i have found a new poster child for buy cheap buy twice!
i was warned about ebay vendor aapoldham after i purchased this, he tends to buy non inspected manufacturer returns, cheap chinese shit etc etc and stickers them up as brand new. and when you complain he really tees off on you! really quite a professional outfit,
anyway i opened her up and was greeted by a vision i can only compare to a grenade impact,
looks like the brushes wore almost instantly, the magnet casings had cracked and chipped and some had even collapsed, spinning into the windings and shorting like a mofo!!!
these pictures should go into every reputable auto electricians waiting room!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/72D34EA3-67EE-47E1-8AB6-8A4DC17BD06D_zpsre7xbjsy.jpg)
tell me you are not impressed!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1F1D886A-0BCD-4B54-863E-BD9FCAA138EB_zpsewpkc0rz.jpg)
are you not entertained!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C28F32B5-5B31-409B-901F-B6F77C7BBA39_zpsx2y8sq8m.jpg)
think i may be phoning wosp up in the morning for a heavy duty wake the dead starter
That's a horrendous mess!
Umm... wow... ohh crap ???
I think I need to be knighted by the rotary overlords when I finally get this out on the road!
Thats true, you should :D Damn... But keep up the fight, youl get there!
D I Y its the most satisfying way and you can set your own standards! And a darn good excuse to buy tools! Cant see whats wrong with that ecu install...doubles up as a nice passenger foot rest! Lol.
Keep at it fella! And whilst the specialists have been dicking about your car has gone up in value!
got a bit depressed today looking at all the bodge jobs done on my car so went out shopping for tools and stuff, new heat gun, stand off nuts for my rivnut gun, hylomar for the inevitable leaks, nut lock etc etc also brought more small part organisers etc
whilst i was thinking bodge work i decided to bite the bullet and join the club, i purchased my first ever tool of the bodge gods i purchased a angle grinder so yeah will have some fun with that soon.
mail man came with more of the random bits i keep buying think ooooohhh i might need them, but also got my new starter motor,,,whooop
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8C5902A9-08AE-477E-B6D1-A391C8009707_zpsxfahxwpn.jpg)
decided to get it straight on, the bolt on the one side is now too long but i will sort that when i can. also probably wont make a difference but it looks cool gave it a bit of heat reflect
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A1159F48-3853-41AF-BB06-92283D4208ED_zpskaxb5pov.jpg)
and here is todays fresh hell.
have no idea whats been chopped, spliced, cut, terminated but slowly trying to work my way through it
i have talked myself out of the racepak smartwire as it would be overkill but would at least like to tidy the power and fuse circuitry to avoid any warm warm marshmallow toastings on the m42
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/124FE6E8-21FA-4FCC-9BE0-561CA0136BC1_zpskembmdww.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/600D8D4F-D66A-470D-966F-2BBAEE0975D1_zpsvmoaa2mz.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7524B60A-6A2C-45A8-B5AF-B088688A118C_zpszn4alvsq.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/813FBA90-12CC-4258-B1AD-C4102A2E307C_zpsnrxtmxvk.jpg)
Such a lot of work going on! Car will last forever when you get it done
I agree! Great job :)
so thanks to a proper FD:UKer i now have a big box of wiring harnesses to play with / track / document / cut up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/0995304C-22D8-40E0-8A28-4D518283219A_zpsuvddf6jt.jpg)
hopefully i can figure out what is going on with these without having to rip my car to bits and break stuff. once i have come up with the perfect layout / configuration etc i will re manufacture a loom out of proper stuff and install it fresh.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9DC2EAF2-AC9F-4F5D-BD30-A00261917C88_zpsikhcmfz6.jpg)
even with the guides i am struggling with some components, wish they had just gone off wire colour on a single wiring diagram i could trace instead of 115 seperate pages of FSM.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/051C1D37-2D66-4CD8-B3A1-7830E3034C51_zpsrajq8jqh.jpg)
got most of the way on the first loom tonight, it has already been partially stripped, lots missing but this just helps me identify easier and then i can compare it to the next one that also has stuff missing but between them and some double checking locations on the car i should be able to get it together
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/534EF7C8-DB11-4F71-B1DC-4910379F438A_zpsk0ln5rta.jpg)
this all made me feel very dirty and il be honest a little bit queazy but fortunately the dude from amazon turned up with 6 new divider boxes for me to play with
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EE4CABA5-5C26-4569-A608-3BE134A25F5F_zpsmdtm1rkw.jpg)
and theyre (censored)ing stackable!!!!!! they lock together and stack,,,,, this made me a lot happier than it should have done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A02AE7FA-507B-40B2-9AA0-483C7D108EC2_zps0xteq3ye.jpg)
That looks like alot fun...insulation tape is a pain this time of year though....warm it up in airing cupboard.
Quote from: boosted on December 18, 2015, 10:11:07 AM
That looks like alot fun...insulation tape is a pain this time of year though....warm it up in airing cupboard.
i use a special tool on stuff like that mate its like a circular blade fits round the wire, just pull and it strips everything off it, no good on junctions etc but even then i tend to just stanley blade it all off.
fairly shitty day today no enthusiasm so yep you guessed it went shopping, got metres of rubber mat to lay under anything mounting to body to insulate from vibrations, and can cut it up as makeshift rubber washers and weatherproofing
also got sick of looking at those puny grounds the guys installed so decided to make some bastard spec ground wires.
not a great crimp as the dies are every size except what they say they are but there crimped, braided purple with raychem heatshrink with adhesive to protect the copper.
oh and as i said bastard gauge
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CA59A97F-BA1F-4A6C-9F57-1E200D0141CF_zpsrwxsojwa.jpg)
original and new comparisons
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/DFDB9A21-ACF2-41C8-A295-641F754D9124_zps2xgsxksb.jpg)
while i was out i picked up some pin removal tools and some wire samples to do some tests, 1mm thinwall
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9384CD91-97C4-4AE5-809D-E5905F7BB4D7_zpsiblb3pre.jpg)
from all my (censored)ing about with the front horseshoe harness and stuff i think i have come up with a plan, its not the full rewire / tuck / tidy i wanted but i think on a time / effort / cost scale it is a bloody good compromise and should make a difference
i have looked and it seems that most of the horseshoe loom is required where it is situated, (fog lights, headlights, abs etc) it would be silly to move these to the rear to run a return all the way back down.
same with the main relay box, you really need that to be as close as possible to items such as alternator and starter which leaves the fuse/relay box.
with that i stripped it down and traced the comings and goings and noticed that lots go in and there are very few ground take offs or retruns, and its the same with the front pointless relay box lots going in and then terminating with only about 3 wires continuing to passenger side ecu plugs.
so in theory i could wire direct from source all connections that terminate in the fuse box or relay box and run a longer circuit up to the boot / rear bins.
it works in theory but as we all know theory can (censored) up.
i will have a electrical guru look over my plans at some point see if they are feasible and try pass the work over to them because i cant be fooked
right not done much due to loads of time off but shitty weather stopping me,
in the breaks i did manage to prep some cable / hose tidies and tanks etc i will be installing.
maybe overdoing the purple,,,,,,nahhhhh
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E0F7D3AE-FD78-437B-BFEC-D92B6CE6A1A9_zps0rnaitun.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/988F067B-C6DF-49D4-ABBF-889B27612A74_zpskiglowjq.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/3E53312F-D074-49FF-9EBF-5ED2BCC23131_zpsvdcjj8zq.jpg)
started routing the cable properly, not rubbing against sheet metal bare
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C13B1652-65C8-4C03-A0ED-2390C19A8549_zpsnb112slc.jpg)
started fabricating a battery / electronics containment box, this will be mounted direct to the body with rubber vibration control sheets, going to mount the battery and the water meth and breaker circuits etc next to each other 3-4 seperate boxes that i will enclose in one big fascia to pretty it up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/42A0D9D5-4FDD-4D03-99AE-A44BEA452F98_zpsupk0wvpx.jpg)
oh and a box of new toys for free courtesy of a relatives company going bump
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D17D63F9-CA60-44D7-9C26-4C78D1773DCE_zpsptj9bioy.jpg)
Blimey, there's a lot of tools :)
Keep us posted and hopefully these will get you to where you want to be with the car,
Good luck out there and keep us posted :)
Quote from: clive on January 01, 2016, 05:43:31 PM
Blimey, there's a lot of tools :)
Keep us posted and hopefully these will get you to where you want to be with the car,
Good luck out there and keep us posted :)
we have 5x that amount, i just had one of each type, heat shrink guns and stuff like that dont interest me, its amazing what any facility can aquire tools and junk wise,
yes hopefully these tools will help in the rebuild, i know there is a £400 rivet gun in there that will be usefull very soon
(http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/en.futurama/images/a/ad/GoodNewsEveryone.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20090731021518)
GOOD NEWS EVERYBODY
i have finally got another unit.
yes it is silly silly expensive and may be a bit "farmery" but i have got hold of a empty relatively dry work space once more.
its about 10m by about 5m so plenty of space for me on my tod but am hoping some local mates will share the space and the costs.
in other news, i fitted my wheels for the first time since i purchased them and it has become abundantly clear that my suspension needs to get fitted ASAP. my car looks like a roller skate or one of those ridiculous yank donk things
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1B240EF3-4674-4E1A-AC43-711A5F196DD0_zpsq5opq0qm.jpg)
so exploding spoilers aside we are making progress.
i connected the battery up for the first time in weeks and since fitting my new starter and to my suprise she started up first time,..
bit of a clear up and we will be golden, dry it out reseal the one loose wall /roof partition and a good ssweep il be happy,
9m x 5 m in total full electric,steel doors and a farmer who dont care what you do or what time!!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/243222B2-CDE9-4340-82C3-3E1B9EFD6AE0_zpsxqv1unkg.jpg)
jealous of my mate with his double unit though, got his drift car in there, his brothers road car and his dads road supra
proper man cave material ,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/95862A8A-CDD0-4051-9CB8-2E3382DC5FD8_zpsj0j0buk4.jpg)
Nice room for a ramp! I wanna stick 1 in my double garage but ceiling too low.
i was thinking that, they are silly cheap when you look and you can even get moveable 4 post ramps that can park a car on and under, just a shame that it isnt really feasible to keep this unit long term, but if that lottery win comes!!!!
Got a guy willing to go in with the costs on the unit and may even get a 4 post lift out of the deal, made up oh and the car is now in so big Whoop
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5B979C41-08B1-4E38-B8C5-036EADE29B98_zps0raojc25.jpg)
first things first, we have warms, may be overkill but not going to run out of gas soon,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8B4FD068-C154-4215-8090-F8D709BC8CCA_zpsmwtuoech.jpg)
and new workshop tools yay
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/50A7242D-AF36-4FDC-8CF2-8BFE991F623E_zpsx4yxdkra.jpg)
next issue, is this removable and if so how?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1A5F4CD7-BA00-44CC-9EB7-6F6C66F3AB18_zpschyqn16v.jpg)
also having a problem mounting the quantums to the existing top mounts, it all seems a bit weird i have sent pics back to quantum to see if this was the mount they expected as it doesnt seem to work for me
any ideas
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/48F60302-ED21-4192-BF99-4283E9394537_zpsswxvhc2r.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6E382406-7DE8-40D7-902A-E123691E9827_zpsed8nbgnt.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/956A6F94-A5B4-47FD-97AE-A9EE59EBE641_zpskvubltbp.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/EE63999F-AC35-4199-B4ED-D75120EAD6BF_zpso0eyczws.jpg)
you can see what the top of the quantum is like from this picture also
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A966135F-A040-4961-A49B-40FB5F927F79_zpslgdscd3s.jpg)
so even a guy who can burn a pot noodle has managed to install the electric water pump kit,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/184391F3-2160-4EF9-9B92-462E57F8C784_zps9demkibi.jpg)
well i got the wiring and such in, need to wait until monday to finish it as my silicone hoses are all the wrong length and shape,
and then we can look forward to the inevitable fire and high pressure leaks..
there was a slight gap between the pump housing and pump plate which was strange, but the bolts are all fully done up and its full of rtv so maybe its just a bevelled finish or i have completely (censored)ed up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D2343DB1-3F7D-4959-9CA0-F27A2002E3E6_zpsaux1shml.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5489F8C6-8CA4-4965-A797-8EBFD2637759_zpssbisxpkp.jpg)
Well done, guessing the whole kit came from Sake Bomb
Blanking plate is real nice.
I use the EWP and have been very happy
yes it was a group buy, so far so good, will finish the install when i can get some more coolant hose
pretty heavy day, suspension bolts and bushes are a pain in the rectum,
these took a good half day.
turns out as good as impact drivers are you just cant get them in places
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9A675511-5D37-4F25-B6C9-E10CE1FBF9DD_zpsmfxx8162.jpg)
decided to try fit the physical pump on the EWP kit and it just isnt happening, because my intercooler and rad and kenlowe fan take up so much space and are mounted straight there is no real space for the pump as the in port is in the centre oh and the rad out pipe leads straight into the anti roll bar
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/03F8B65F-99FA-45FF-900D-5A3BF6431FDE_zpsog5jggrr.jpg)
i need it close to the exit pipe as it will support the pump weight, i am thinking of getting some of that springy flex silicone hose to make a tight radius that wont crease and then try and mount further up and use the out pipe hose to support the weight as much as possible, other than that i have no clue what to do here,
oh and the next problem,
i decided to get rid of the topgear combi ast filler and put a old original filler back on but this one appears to be a ast delete version with no pipe for the coolant overflow, does anyone have a filler neck with pipe in it otherwise i have no air separation or expansion capability
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/20792AE1-8AAD-4EDC-816F-28A98B8692B5_zpsvmhwjlcy.jpg)
Mrp sell a filler with expansion pipe fitment if i remember correctly.
Yep its on the website £42.50. Ast delete bolt on filler cap with expansion pipe nipple.
Big thanks dude
Hiya, Interested in your progress. I'm thinking of ewp and controller. Was it easy to find the right wires to connect the controller up ?
Thanks
Chris
it really is quite simple to wire mate, its pre terminated, positive in bay, ground in cabin on ignition remote wire to fuse box and 2 led wires, that will get it running.
there are more wires to splice into relays etc for fan temp control etc
The longer this project goes on the more I dislike my wheels,
The design makes them look smaller and far too small for the motor,
I want my rota grid drifts back lol
So I decided to go for the Davies Craig ewp & controller. Can you tell me the colour wire you tapped in to for the fans relay.
I'm seeing double reading wiring schematics etc.
Thanks
Chris
Quote from: mikey-t on January 18, 2016, 10:23:38 PM
it really is quite simple to wire mate, its pre terminated, positive in bay, ground in cabin on ignition remote wire to fuse box and 2 led wires, that will get it running.
there are more wires to splice into relays etc for fan temp control etc
I have aftermarket fans and ecu mate so didn't use it but from memory the fan controller relays have there own specific bit of loom, green and blue wires I believe
Thanks for the reply. I have the Apexi ecu which triggers the fans at the mo.
So although you have the Davies Craig controller, your just using it to run the ewp ? and leaving the ecu to trigger your fans at the set temp ?
You should be able to splice into the loom or you could have the fans run through the apexi standalone and run the ewp standalone trough the inline thermosensor and just base the flow speed on inline temp and leave the fans to do there thing
Hi Mikey what sort of costs are the ewp and blanking plate?
I got it in a group buy, full kit hit £500 delivered including duty,
I would say a cheaper method would be find a good engineers or cnc place like dm motorsport "borrow" a blanking plate and get a copy done up, I'm sure the rx7 community would like a blanking / bypass plate and could sell well.
After initial costs I reckon it would be a cheap product to knock out
Quote from: mikey-t on February 03, 2016, 04:24:53 PM
You should be able to splice into the loom or you could have the fans run through the apexi standalone and run the ewp standalone trough the inline thermosensor and just base the flow speed on inline temp and leave the fans to do there thing
Many thanks for sharing. I'll post up how things work out.
had another go today, my arbor press is nowhere near man enough to press the bushes out so thats for another day,
i even tried poking it with a stick repeatedly whilst saying "work" and even that didnt work
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/26200EEC-945F-4F4F-89C9-63A8C941E42A_zpsmbhwiijf.jpg)
so today we focused on mounting the electric water pump, as you can see from the picture the pump is meant to mount direct on the outlet pipe but the anti roll bar is right in line so its a no go, the angle is far to tight to pull it up anywhere else structural so needed to think outside the box,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/45062CDC-B984-4215-BD42-8739551A28A5_zps8izf5avj.jpg)
had a few bits of scrap metal lying around so twisted a bit and drilled it to try and come up off the old rad support bar mount whilst still clearing the powersteering lines and oil pipes and leaving enough room for the inlet pipe to mount near the fan and keep all the angles fairly shallow to avoid kinks,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E0DA4323-6FF7-4A8C-9277-7FD965AB1177_zpsfcmrhzwv.jpg)
im thinking that the angle is small enough to avoid kinks and i have raised it enough to help but hopefully the pump has the power to push and pull coolant with the distances
so turns out the bushes take quite a bit of pressure to remove, 9 tonnes to be exact, luckily my friend has a 100t and 500t press so we got it done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F42B9119-626D-45A8-AAFA-700D353BC828_zpsm1imf4sa.jpg)
once i started cleaning the parts up looks like someone had had them polished but badly, i cant be arsed with that shit so painted over the lot of it,
also managed to source some suspension supplies but could do with a supplier for ball joint boots/ covers and clips etc.
also require a new main 120a fuse. blew that in a rookie mistake, any uk suppliers
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/0C81F651-B1AF-4A53-A164-6507320B948E_zpswlmm4ij2.jpg)
if you want a standard set ready to bolt on...
these are mine. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151977295713?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RX7-Mazda-FD3S-OEM-Genuine-120-AMP-Main-Fuse-/301867461441?hash=item4648b3eb41:g:FZkAAOSwc0FUoYun
so new toys,
replaced the main fuse i broke in a rookie error,
nice and shiny
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/7317061D-C687-46D5-AEAD-D5574818D5D9_zpsngauo1nv.jpg)
also got my hands on a nifty little impact wrench, man enough for anything on the car and even on my truck
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/440EBF0C-3F36-4E02-ACEA-D1947EE716D0_zpsgh5pvnme.jpg)
still having nightmares with my coolant system and bushes,
got the heavy duty press on them and fitted some of the new stuff, but still having a game with some snap rings on 2 bushes, tried all my circlip pliers and my snap ring tools and no dice, they are not the usual clips with holes in etc they just have a slight angle cut into a open end that i cannot get anything into. not sure what to do about it
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D7B5D0DF-15BA-4C3B-B099-AAE749323053_zpsxk8an45m.jpg)
Umm, just curious, how much that Milwaukee costs there? I work in local hardware store, and I asked a price from our dealer. It was alot :)
Whats happening with the coolant system ? The topgear AST has gone ? same issue?
In a word yes the impact wrench is "expensive" but also "priceless"
I had a snap on one before and it was brilliant but this is more powerful
If you have ever had to change a wheel on a artic truck you know this is a sound investment,
Rated to 1100lb ft
It cost me £450 but for the amount of use they get that's nothing, will undo ANYTHING on your car the only limitation you have with something like this is access as they are rather large.
As for cooling yes I got rid of the tank and reverted to standard, I now have a electric water pump and will be installing B numerous bleed points and hopefully that will resolve all the cooling issues
Hmm, so its about same price there too. Ok, thanks for info :)
True, I understand. Sometimes price is irrelevant... :)
enough nut busting torque to spin the earths axis comes at a price
finally got my spoiler thanks to thomas
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6F326C8E-2686-4B25-9762-90B44B3DBB47_zpszczymsgd.jpg)
slowly making progress
wherever possible i have replaced perishables with brand new but some of these things are getting a lot harder to find,
new rose joints, bushes, track rod end, dust boots etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/4117EEF8-CEC5-47AE-898E-5FA7076961D1_zps8efhly4w.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A5D4E66F-1383-48FE-8601-F4AF8641A3FB_zpsm9tqalsq.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/56B8608F-A43B-4207-B577-5ACF662DC8B1_zpslmgcr5ii.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FC6538F4-8F99-4791-8E2B-B8162DB6F6FE_zpsachjo2nk.jpg)
Worth it end mate...mines on the road...done about 100miles in it today lush!
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
im gonna end up missing the summer at this rate though, which is annoying
in another mass of wiring hell right now,
although the haltech has its own loom and power wiring etc etc there is still plenty of ancillaries to take into account.
now initially i was going to strip the whole car and rewire the lot but that seemed too much like hard work and wire is (censored)ing expensive also i am getting impatient so i (censored)ed that off,
right now i am at the stage where i want to do the bare minimum, so that means sorting the following
--- i have a battery relocation but i am still not happy with the way the engine bay wiring is run, i want to consolidate the horseshoe loom, the power loom and fuse box / diagnostic and fan control relays into one easy to maintain box. this is the hardest thing to get my head round and really need help on this bit
--- in the cab i have all the standard wiring plus 3 relays fro ecu control, a fuse panel for ecu, my electric water pump control, more fan wiring etc i want to mount all this on a plate and maybe swap out the relays for solid state or switchable breakers
--- in the boot is a right cluster (censored) but like the rest i want to make a plate up and mount all the controls on it, i will need fuel system control, water injection, main battery fusing and split system etc etc.
any tech gurus out there willing to give me a hand or a heads up on just how to do it, i hate splicing and cutting into existing lines and just tee'ing off that just seems a bit of a shortcut too me but i dont have the confidence in myself to go balls deep in car spaghetti
Also need some yoda like advice on fuelling system etc will try and go into more detail later when I have pictures
so another day hard at it in the unit,
move a bit around to tidy up, look at something you need to sort on the car, research on the internet how a master craftsman has done the job and made it look like pure porn,
cry a little at your lack of talent but order the bits to attempt a hash up of the job anyway,
cry a lot more when the stuff comes and you realise you have wasted your money ,,,,repeat
anyone elses project go like this at all???
so im still having suspension woes, still cant get that circlip out and the more research we do the more it confuses us, its a clip in there and a load of metalwork but according to powerflex a bush goes in there???? looks to me like a pillow ball socket with a bit of a rubber spacer either side,
anyone else have a rear upper arm off that i can take a look at or have knowledge of what the hell is going on with it?
the wiring is still happening. i wanted to consolidate all the fuse boxes etc but its just a massive ballache even with the haltech loom which in a way makes it more difficult as it uses parts of the old system.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/41EAFB93-7E58-4E67-8462-826DDBF89DCE_zpsiquwf8pr.jpg)
anyway i had a good look over the wiring diagrams today and noticed 3 lines from battery +ive with notes to install a 75amp breaker if you want, me being safety concious i thought yes i will do that
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F82F45E3-9F8F-4B55-A3AB-A549E1EAF433_zpsnlnulhvy.jpg)
see it clearly states that, RED,RED AND GREEN and RED AND WHITE
come from battery positive and can be breakered
except it lies there is only 2 wires from battery for the ecu ecu main power in red and fuel pump main power in red
and even when you chase it back to the haltech fuse block where said wires are meant to go there is no red and green and the other two are not where theyre meant to be
what is this voo doo
see no red and green
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/67A464FD-9159-480C-A017-CB1BCB2840A3_zps0f0wmge9.jpg)
i later found a later spec diagram that was a little clearer about where the wires actually went and discovered that they had obviously run out of red and green and red and white as all 3 wires were present and located on 3 separate terminals but all using the same 3mm red wire colour.
genius
anywho one of 3 breakers right here, and to those who dont know, these are (censored)ing expensive when you can buy relays and ssr's for a few quid.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C0861AA6-198F-4D65-8059-CE3D94058D00_zpskfnduqzi.jpg)
times it by 10 and your close
so after giving up again and looking at images like this which is what i want to do to my wiring
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6E2D43E6-0FFE-4A75-A76E-03B4AFFB66CE_zpsnkere2ga.png)
and this from custom clusters
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8F869B71-7771-48B1-8D65-5460652AB83E_zpst6rszsao.png)
i decided it was steak time, for the second day running
mmmmm mmmmm steak is only steak if it is heavier than 1kg
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9C191E87-5E27-414A-AD9E-1A5E284324F8_zpsxdiy4yde.jpg)
anyway back to the disastrous fuelling where the wire just fell out.... that could have been fun
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/ACA57F7D-2A7D-418B-8025-1F45E81E8BE8_zpsvsf5vl7t.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/588F4602-377C-41DE-8570-E449F091E0D6_zpsh6iao61a.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C027F3CA-F9FE-4CAA-9227-C94AA3FB3FD4_zpszo0ikhcf.jpg)
still undecided what to do here,
at the moment the preffered method is to go with a relatively standard in tank pump to lift to a external swirl pot somewhere under the car. hopefully with full braid lines again. i can then run that to the front maybe with a -10 to future proof the system,
the braid in engine bay is -6 but will be upgraded at some point in the future but whilst im under the car and all that.....
will this cause stress on the pump or regulator at all with the bottle neck or will it just regulate as normal and return as normal?
pulled my lockwire set out today to go through some of the criticals, rather tie off as i go around so i know for sure everything is secured, torqued and double checked
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2B870ADC-67A6-4BC6-B58A-3D310C652E62_zpsgchdlaar.jpg)
also dug out a bit of flat that i had around, was going to build a battery box but ran out of talent and then i was going to buy one but cannot pay £50 + for a box, its against everything i believe in, so i was going to bend some flat and strap it down until i realised the positions werent quite right for bolting down with any stability etc and so i started looking at boxes again whilst grumbling
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/E9D3CC48-B1C3-4AC4-9387-8256ADD1F88C_zpsuoglwyjq.jpg)
The 2 outer bushes on the top rear wishbones that attach to shock and hub are pillow ball bushes....if theres no play in them leave as is...if theres play then the circlip needs to come out and then pressed out or drawn out with sockets on threaded bar...i just recently done mine piccys in my build thread.
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
sooo new bleed welded into the radiator
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9A19489E-2731-4C3B-A4F9-ED200C6EDC40_zps5dph8rmf.jpg)
and while trawling ebay i came across 4 of these, awesome for a little vented panel section etc i thought, turned up and they are actually a carbon fibre / other composite mix panel
may have one either side of a box im making for the electrics to keep cool
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/BF7B7869-0327-42B2-8DA9-5BD0898E2DA7_zpswlmuwrf1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/A36A300F-0D2F-42A0-80E1-56AE7262FA7B_zpswucvdz0t.jpg)
not bad for a tenner, got the front corner suspension all mounted up and dropped back on the deck, it dropped that low i couldnt get the low level jack out
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F4230391-E879-4397-8999-649F3E576F17_zps2wqzb6c5.jpg)
i was just about to start looking at the fuel system and it started hailing, and i mean HEAVY it came down solid for ten minutes and left about 3" of shit all over the ground and of course my weak ans feeble roof, 20 minutes after it stopped it was still raining inside
never mind i dont have stereos and laptops and k series engines all over the shop
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CD5E1323-C98F-4E28-A765-1CF5414DF047_zpstlzvuxaj.mp4 (http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CD5E1323-C98F-4E28-A765-1CF5414DF047_zpstlzvuxaj.mp4)
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5A9EE0C6-094A-4BEA-9094-5651C6E155B4_zpswn354zcr.mp4 (http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5A9EE0C6-094A-4BEA-9094-5651C6E155B4_zpswn354zcr.mp4)
engine bay has been pretty much stripped yet again as we are trying to fix all the issues that the tuners from down south provided and we just keep finding more issues.
today my bit of gold was finding out that the coils ground was loose on a stud just rattling away no nut nothing just the pressure of a vac line holding it somewere near in place,
so yeah everything is being double checked,
yay fun times
To cure some electrical woes and some unsafe wiring I have started by cleaning up my grounds, back to bare metal, good connection etc,
Going to keep them bare for now until I can test the effectiveness of the grounds with a multimeter, then I'm thinking of a quick paint touch up to the bolts and then a clear over the top or some electrical paste that don't turn shitty,
Any recommendations?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/74E5800A-5BB7-4703-B047-8ACE27346FA9_zpss6vlhkxe.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/67208F8A-8241-491E-9FCC-800D5F2E89BC_zps5inm7qx2.jpg)
Whilst I was at it I installed my inline fuse in the boot, and started wiring up a busbar to act as a positive take off to save populating the + terminal with a million wires and bending connectors etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/8EBB61FF-150B-4E46-A720-E03C1B8F2436_zpsqituyujo.jpg)
From that I should be able to pull a positive for the water meth, fuel pump and other ancillaries with ease, I could also start situating in line breakers and fuse panels but that's for further on in hr wbuild
I have been running two different batteries with very little success, neither seems to have the guts to start from cold with ease or hold a charge on a stubborn start up,
Obviously the grounds were not helping but still expect more, any recommendations on this front?
I don't want to run gel or Li ion as the car will be stood for long periods and have high loads etc plus I don't fancy rebuilding the alternator to suit,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/AC770223-B121-4DDD-9422-A1B5C737B194_zpsfyahcksg.jpg)
And this one was meant to be brilliant but couldn't cope with shit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/5D09AC32-2D2F-4522-829E-0D6954786A0C_zpsr9jrdqsi.jpg)
so had another leak in the unit last night,
directly over the box i was storing all my expensive and precious parts and wiring etc, most dried out real quick but probably the most expensive item is still playing up,
my electric water pump controller was soaked and now there is condensation in there,
im going to strip it tonight and leave it in a bag of rice for the asian electric gods to come fix for me]
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/B26D3803-94F3-4C86-B981-B9143454A454_zpstprpwrgm.jpg)
after cleaning up all my earth points the other day and posting a thread about recommended rust proof techniques i purchased some conductive paint, really is quite a weird think, more paste then paint but it does work as my mate found out to his dismay today,
conducts 12v really quite well even when painted on glass / wood
there is a little resistance brought about but barely noticeable, my grounds are still stronger than they ever was before the build
doesn't look great but better than bare metal
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/F0A674AD-8CE6-4DDE-87F7-A6EA8F9D993F_zpshsz9sgng.jpg)
started mocking out my boot wiring today also, eventually there will be a panel to mount it all on and tuck the wires through to hide everything behind but first i need to make sure it works
battery relocation boot to bonnet wire has been fully braided and sealed and run through a conduit at each bulkhead and point of contact, with a mega fuse installed in line just in case
i have used a bus bar as my positive take off to save a mass of wires on the battery terminal each take off will be fused / breaker appropriately as you can see already with the resettable breaker for the ecu supply,
the water meth will be running through a solid state relay and DPO so that will be ok and i need to figure out a better way of fusing the fuel pump as i hate in line blade fuse holders with a passion, too unreliable
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/0575018A-898A-4811-8E9A-0A020A2DEB9D_zpssmldfu5z.jpg)
right so mikey-t returns from his jaunt across half of this hemisphere and im glad to be back after a right cluster (censored) of a tour,
been back a few days and spent most of them in the unit catching up on what my mates havent done.
whilst i was away there was a break in at our site and the lads were nice enough to text me and say just that "units been broken into" and then did not reply until 3 days later,
so you can imagine what i was thinking in the middle of turkey for 3 days with no replys,,,,
luckily only a few tools have been lifted and we are only now realising whats gone,
reach for your brake line tool,,,,,, nope its gone,
thieving bastards,
even put the window through on one of my side projects because why not
anyway this week has mostly consisted of stripping down a death trap of a saxo to swap its engine into a ax gti,
also in the process of supercharging a BMW m52 for a mates e36 and of course scruffy pup.
first it was time to pull the projects out and try tidy up a bit and figure what was gone
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CE5C8FF6-81B2-4804-B983-315152598F2B_zpsnvokzpu7.jpg)
ten points to whoever can name the truck
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/69EBB8D8-A71E-4141-B908-F32E4848F624_zpsz2cb3tlt.jpg)
tidy as its going to get
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/D19C033B-0FFB-4A61-9151-A7A7EA75A440_zpssrnmocir.jpg)
i spent 4 hours trying to get the wheel off as the powdercoat has made it a little tight and the lack of slip literally welded the wheel to the hub,
wont do that again.
it was then time to start stripping the drivers side suspension ready for the quantums and polybushes etc etc,.
have a guess how long the front lower wishbone took to remove??
NOPE 2 (censored)ing days! no room to get my impact gun in there all my meaty sockets didnt have clearance i bent my 4ft extension bar trying and at one scary point actually lifted the car off the axle stand trying but after a long LONG while it eventually let go.
i cannot actually walk up stairs or lift my arms over my waist but i got the bastard off!!
even supercrack didnt work and that is unheard of
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/FC78DCC1-C915-4618-8D48-ED3D9C518886_zps9pogcacy.jpg)
after feeling sorry for myself for a while i pottered about painting some stuff like the abs frame and suspension arms, no doubt for the paint to react or chip within minutes but it was better than being stuck at home
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/1B9D0EDD-26EA-4D24-A0D4-2212309C3F71_zpstfkghj8i.jpg)
so not having enough punishment i decided to fit the spoiler i have had lying around for months, i knew i was going to have to get drill happy but had NOOOO idea how bad i would have to go.
nothing lined up right and when you did line one up the other would jump out etc etc, i had to drill holes underneath just to access the thread with a nut etc in other words a actual ball ache, it was only ever going to be a temporary job until i can get her to a body shop or get a decent boot replacement but still i am unsure, not happy with the fit method or the quality of my panels matching the spoiler especially with some bolt holes out of line,
i may just bung a load of silicone round it and hope for the best as im not building a show car here,
still looks a bit small to me, may have to go spoiler less again or just go BIG
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/CF6FFD31-5F68-4DDB-AA40-C56D1F4A55E6_zpssg9ro2ml.jpg)
whilst i have been messing around in the arches and leaning on panels etc my wing caught my door and chipped a bit of paint, what followed terrified me,
i knew the previous owner had paid for a dodgy respray but i didnt realise how dodgy, there was no metallic on upright panels so i knew the guy had rushed it and not stripped the car but on my door a mobile phone sized piece of paint / laquer literally fell off revealing perfect black primer,
there was no bonding at all, i chased it a bit with my finger nail and it is literally peeling like pva glue on your hand, massive sections leaving perfect black primer underneath, the paint layer was so thin you can see through it its more like a dye pigment with a thin laquer.
looks like a full rub down and fresh paint on the list of things to save up for,,,,
anyway good to be back and thanks for reading my essay....
Quote from: mikey-t on July 29, 2016, 11:40:24 PM
luckily only a few tools have been lifted and we are only now realising whats gone,
anyway this week has mostly consisted of stripping down a death trap of a saxo to swap its engine into a ax gti,
also in the process of supercharging a BMW m52 for a mates e36 and of course scruffy pup.
Damn, you were actually quite lucky if they took only tools basically. I mean, isnt those wheels expensive too...
Well, AX Gti is a death trap, even basic basic AX is death wish if you drive it :D
Beemer engines likes forced induction ;) Oil injectors under pistons and add 2 bar boost and there you go...
They took 2 impact drivers off my mates each one cost £400
I will post some pics later of what we found in the saxo ...... Soooo bad
this was the average state of the saxo all round, both strut tops and panels all the way from the firewall to slam panel,
and the strength rails under the boot aswell, all hidden by electrical boxes etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/B1BF83BD-8615-4F21-8721-01DC17D2D906_zpsglwgoxpa.jpg)
the paint in question, looks like it didnt even bond to the primer just flakes off on any weak point, next to no colour in it either
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/2D8C6319-868D-440A-9DE7-83D7A66963AD_zpsihjborme.jpg)
making some progress at least
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/C7A01D3C-AB02-4B56-A90E-517E6236EF44_zpsqi1i5qfg.jpg)
Wow, that saxo is rotten :D
Quote from: re japi on July 31, 2016, 06:13:00 AM
Wow, that saxo is rotten :D
All saxos are rotten....
Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
sooo fun day today, diggers, manitous and credit cards ahoy
stacking like dimes lol
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/6B0E4899-E42B-4902-8467-D8CE2C7A16F9_zpsmpgootzj.jpg)
engine is finally back to the stage i was at about 2 years ago
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sensor relocated sensibly and out of the way of heat etc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/9A2A981E-BC3D-4BD8-A548-36314FDCB327_zpsplkzwtzq.jpg)
a purchase for another project, the tasty tasty goodness
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/B1637E91-B984-43AE-8254-A06DE8134819_zps6k7qmwui.jpg)
sometimes i like to sit there in a cloud of smoke and pretend my engine is running
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right was mainly working on the saxo engine today but after finding marks in cylinder 4 i got pissed and went shopping instead.
got myself a new odyssey battery to save space, unsure where to mount it as i have a few options, the boot will be busy with the water meth and wiring i am planning so maybe rear seat space. trouble is finding a good flat space to mount it,
also had a few issues with the stud type terminals, if i want more than one connection on the post it tries to short out on the mounting frame, so i got a old bus bar i have cut it in two and bent it and made a take off plate for each terminal allowing me 2 connections per terminal,
not great technically speaking but should work
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the bus bar bent up and connected
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got the bushes in the arms and new ball joint boots fitted and greased up
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this is where i started to get stressed again, the new drop links i ordered came as a pair of lefts so the angle to mount to the anti roll bar was wrong, yet another thing im going to have to replace.
also came to fitting my rose joints / pillow balls and i am missing a spacer, they have been kicking around that long it must have just got bored and walked off, if anyone has any spare or knows where i can get one without buying a full pillow ball kit again please let me know
missing in action please send a friend
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as for the piece of shit saxo, thought we was doing ok, head looked great brand new in fact, filled the cylinders with wd and they all held for ages, and then suddenly 4 drained, took the sump off looked underneath and yeah 3 cylinders are immaculate but 4 has some kind of chatter marking at the lower end so looks like a piston ring is moving about,
just when i was starting to fall back in love with boinger engines too
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big thankyou to matt at rallynuts and his associates at OPC for the tour around the rally workshop and porsche modifying area.
soooooooooo this is how my paint came off the doors!!!
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pretty sure that is not meant to happen,
brought a DA sander and told the girlfriend to bring out one of the dents on the wing with it, i turned round and half my car was on the floor. so looks like i will be sanding and high build primer the whole car before paint / plastidip
started piecing together the power in the boot, mounting the battery is a bit of a ball ache as there is no flat surface and my side by side with water meth bottle plan failed due to the rear seat supports being a ridiculous angle. so mounted the battery on the back panel. i have mounted a couple of breakers along side this and utilised one of the original earth points.
my big main fuse will sit in the spare wheel well with a lot of other things once sorted. will sir just proud of my false floor and carpet but still plenty hidden. should be a fairly tidy and secure install once im done
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had to cut up a bus bar to make a terminal riser to stop anything arcing on the battery frame
for ease of access and to stop any rubbing i cut some clearance gaps etc will line it with rubber when i have time
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and with the carpet,, will be a lot flatter when i have my spare wheel cover skinned in carbon and layed in there
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few bits missing now to make it roadworthy again but all coming together slowly
You sure thats not plasti dip already?
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That looks more like the plastic Armour film stuff you buy to protect paint, did it come off the front of the car?
definately paint, flakey and thick, looks like they had some real tough base coat of primer or poly a single coat of colour and then to many coats of laquer and none of it bonded to the primer so just peels off, its only on the doors like this and andything vertical so i am going over the whole car now with a DA
well lets just say its amazing the car actually ran and got home, anything they could (censored) up they (censored)ed up and then pissed on after to make sure,
DPO signal wires wired to the wrong inputs, (dpo for boost sensor was wired to idle control valve lol) throttle position sensor had not been calibrated, you name it they (censored)ed it up
so after a hour or so of rewiring (which is all they had to do really) we started getting signals that looked vaguely right.
went to try a turn over without fuelling and the batteries dead, it had turned the car maybe twice so i am guessing i have a severe drain going on somewhere here or the batteries standing capacity is shit i dont know.
after a charge and such we plugged everything in and went to start it and wroooo wrooooo wrooo yep engines flooded or plugs are fouled.
(censored)
so battery is on charge overnight and will be trying again at the next opportunity. if the full battery does not work we have some traditional style starter plugs and spacers to make them fit and hopefully a clean plug set will kick this turd up the front bum and make it run again.
and then its simply a case of hoping they haven't bust the seals up and hoping the electric water pump has the gonads to push some coolant round.
when i run it on a bleed cycle earlier i couldn't even see flow or feel it but i am hoping that is simply because the battery is flatter than a witches tit
may also be an idea to fit the exhaust again as well otherwise a few farm lingering beasts may get a shock (and the cows)
ONWARDS................
Oh, the joys of FD ownership ;) ;D
Good following all the work you've been doing though :PDT_Armataz_01_37:
sick to death of this bastard car,
today was meant to be the start up and check i still have a working engine day but yet again every possible problem introduced its ugly head,
any advice on the following will be muchly appreciated because i am one step away from strapping on a hot water bottle and dancing on the roof of a flaming rx7
so batteries all charged up and the silly little odyssey thing swapped out with a proper battery we turned it over,
but the starter was labouring and probably turning at quarter speed.
now i know i have relocated the battery but i have a very good earth with 70mm cable less than 8"
and my positive is also 70mm with a 300amp in line fuse all the way to the front, i thought the bigger the cable the less resistance etc but according to some i may be doing more harm than good with a cable of that size.
sooooooo
knowing we had a weak point we got the booster pack direct to bod and the positive main fuse point and gave it a whirl and after ages and ages we come to the conclusion that the plugs are fouled after sitting for so long and potentially flooded.
plugs out dry plugs in we try again and it wants to go its just not getting there. you can here the one rotor start to fire and then it just bogs out and just as we was getting to the point where it could start at any minute the booster pack died.
so yet again another day with no running, a suspect starter motor, a wiring system that doesn't want to wire a race battery that cant battery and yet another set of potentially fouled up plugs.
on a lighter note i have nearly finished the noise protection in the boot, not nearly as intense as when i used to build installs but should knock a bit of exhaust drone out,
one layer of 6mm silent coat followed by a 3mm acoustic membrane
awesome membrane, extremely mouldable and stickier than a bunny boiler on heat
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/774F7C03-546F-4FD1-B91E-D3434721C60B_zpstueg2nyo.jpg)
all installed, you can see said wiring,fuse, and lack of working going on right here
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v479/cruisemidlands/mazda%20rx7/688377C6-887F-4595-8F87-869170DBC245_zpscrmpzu8p.jpg)
Arrrggggggggg, I know what this is like!
OK, when you say proper battery, I presume you mean a full size battery, if need be connect a jump lead to the main starter lead and then a good earth with the other jump lead and connect it to a car that's running.
That combined with the battery on the car should get it fired up.
well i think we burnt the brand new starter out as we connected a booster pack to the main fuse in and had the race battery in the back and it turned with minimum effort once and then just clicked just like a dead battery but with 2 connected.
i think the combination of severely flooded / oiled up engine, fouled plugs and poor voltage has just thought all together to piss me off.
hopefully will get a new starter or recon this one tomorow, got some brand new 9s to go in and a fully charged snap on battery booster if that dont start it nothing will
right update on todays cluster (censored) of a day
starter motor replaced, lets just say the one i had was not what i was expecting but were good now.
bolted it up battery connected booster battery at the front and my fresh rebuilt engine starter plugs inserted and after a while it would fire and cut out
kept going and eventually it would hold on one rotor and then you try to throttle it and it cut out.
eventually i got it running very lumpy, eyes bleeding rich and smoky and throttle actually responding engine side every now and then eventually any input on the throttle made it cut out
got a video of it running at that point.....
so my mate turned up and we inserted some fresh bur9p plugs in booster connected again and tried again.....
nothing
no matter what we tried we could not get it too start.
here are some stand out points from the day and what we are presuming our next steps should be but at this moment in time i am angry and broke and am taking a step away for a short while before i do something stupid
-- battery in the boot, battery shows 12.00000 whatever its over 12, starter shows the same as does the fuse live etc etc so power is not dropping on standing
turn over the engine once and the battery just drains and it does this with whatever battery i put on it. turn it over and it just kills it dead.
we think this may be a ground issue or even wiring but it worked before????
--all the plugs when pulled were very sooty yes but all dry apart from one front rotor bottom plug....
its not water definitely pre-mix / oil / fuel
we are thinking this is the lumpy running explained here, maybe the engine fires on the 3 good plugs/ coils and then soaking the one plug in fuel that isnt working..
sooooooooo
when i calm down a bit im going to pull the coils out and make sure firstly they have been wired right because lets face it anything is possible,
then i will check the leads are running to the right plugs as i doubt the lads checked down south
i will also have to replace the magnecor leads because apparently these ones do not suit the LS coils i am running..
after that i am lost and have no (censored)ing clue what to do other than burn the shit out of it with any mortal enemies i may have, claim on the insurance buy a camper van and become one of those low and slow type people that spends all there money on making engine bays shiny and smooth and the actual shiny body of the car all rusted and stickery
the painfull business of a non running roTARY
https://youtu.be/M-a10h2f_Is (http://"https://youtu.be/M-a10h2f_Is")
I feel your pain!
Keep at it, there has to be a logical reason for what you are experiencing. I think the wet leading plug on the front rotor is a major clue. To me, it suggests it's not sparking (lead, coil, or...). Have you tried pulling that plug and grounding it to the body to visually check for a spark?
sooooooo
went back today and just before stripping the coils out etc i thought i would give it one more try,,,,fired first time and ran on both housings,.
let it warm up checked all electrics was running sweet turned it off started again with a bit of a struggle so let it run up and revved for a bit battery was charging at 14.2 so all tickedy boo and then turned off tried to start again bit of effort and nothing battery had drained right down,
i have inspected everything and although not ideal it is all good, the only thing that seemed odd was the following which i think is a symptom of a faulty diode in the alternator
when the engine and ignition is full off the fuse box and alternator are still registering 13.2v which i think is the alternator still trying to charge and could potentially be a parasitic drain on the battery i would expect to see battery voltage only of maybe 12.2-12.6 under those conditions,
could this be my problem
:bravo_2: excellent news,
May be an idea to pull the battery out and get it drop tested because the altonator will keep pumping at times if you have a dodgy battery, even halfords shoul be able to do this
right then,,,,,
been a while i know but new job and all that, oh and christmas.
i never managed to get to the bottom of the car not starting or charging or anything so sent it off to rotortorque for craig to deal with.
within 3 days he had done what i asked and more so top bombing there fella.
car is now taxed and mot'd so i can start breaking the engine in but first i need to solve a few issues.
firstly one of my split rims has suddenly decided to leak air so i have to rip that apart and trace it all.
also i fitted the quantum suspension with a few buddies and it just doesnt seem right, no top mount or anything just a bushing and bolt and washer array so im searching for a local specialist to give it a once over and then do a full set up.
i have ordered some more toys from haltech so hopefully they will ship in in the new year.
my main issue for this week is my distinct lack of wiper action.
they were always slow but then they progressed to the juddering, stopping and letting the smoke out department. so time for a investigatory rebuild there, if that fails i am going to look into doing some kind of modern system retrofit.
the mechanicals of this is easy enough just mate a spline matched motor with power and your away but matching it to the stalk feed and gearing could be tricky,,, anyone done this?
i know things like wiper mechanisms and motors in early japanese cars were borrowed off other manufacturers is this the case with this one?
i would also like to investigate further my lighting options, hid / projector is well out of my budget so im going to experiment with high output LED i think.
anyone have any experience on these motors with such wizardry
hope you are all well, what you guys up too?
as my favourite youtuber would say keep your dick in a vice! laters
Great shes on the road Mikey. Wipers...both my fd,s have had slow wipers...ive tended to use them on 2nd speed setting....and rain ex helps bigtime. Are others like it? Maybe just need another motor?
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Took the car on the road today and it was doing just fine getting up to temp and dropping down accordingly but suddenly started getting hot,
After some looking around it turns out the engine is getting hot and starts pushing the coolant into the expansion tank but not drawing it back in so it's pushing all my coolant out and introducing air locks.
I can't understand why it is doing this now it should surely pull the coolant back when it starts cooling back down
Engines dead, pressurising the system instantly, water seals have gone. Now I'm (censored)ed
Arrrrrrrrgggggggggggg :91:
Noooooooooooooooooooo :41:
Lesson learned don't trust "specialists" do it yourself, not an option for me right now so don't know what I'm going to do
mikey, correct me if I'm wrong but a quick look at the thread seems to indicate this engine has never been out on the road since a specialist has rebuilt it,
If so, you should really talk to whoever screwed it together as standing around for a long time would not have damaged water seals, if this is indeed a fresh non mileage build then a water seal has been pinched upon assembly and no matter that you have had the engine a long time, they should help you.
Yes it is a incredibly low mileage build but I know the engine builder and however likely a pinch would be I don't think that is the case,
The only reason I say this is when it went to the ecu and mapping specialists I walked in on them trying to breed the system by revving with a Coke bottle on the filler with no bleed valve on the rad, and just monitoring temps via a rad probe.
With the system air locked and not flowing I'm guessing what little coolant was in the engine at that point boiled the seals.
So when it did come to actual driving they just shit themselves with the pressure
Well I have had the Christmas period off work and got the start of year rush out of the way so spent the early parts of this week cleaning the unit of non paying cars and moved the shitmobile back up there,
Will make a start on the tear down next week I think, he'll with the engine out I may be able to tidy up some of the wiring and start installing the haltech digital dash,
Mostly plug and play when the lead comes back in stock but stuff like indicators and light status need to be wired in manually
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Fair play mate for sticking with it.
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Yeah, huge respect for sticking with it :icon_salut:
Real pleased to see your sticking with it and going to sort it :0012397:
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Well here we go again
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Right RX7, we can finally confirm how and who's to blame for the engine popping miles after the rebuild.
We diagnosed water seal failure due to it instantly pressuring even from cold and blowing coolant everywhere but on tear down all the water seals were good,
The outer seals were pinched but that wouldn't have put coolant into the combustion chamber.
Upon closer inspection the housing had cracked in the spark plug recess causing a massive failure,
What does this mean? This means more money and parts and hopefully pretty soon a running rx7
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