Been squirrelling away quite a bit recently after suffering wiring issues with the car. The age of the wiring is now getting on and all the minor issues I\'ve had have come down to the wiring in the car.
I\'ve decide to replace the apexi with a more modern ECU and after extensive reading I\'ve gone for a LinkECU G4 Storm.
The main aim is to remove a lot of the ancillaries, such as the boost controller, the twin spark, the electric water pump controller, the Water injection controller and get a more comprehensive data logging system.
Currently I have the ECU with a 2.5m loom kit, I\'ve ordered some AEM smart coils. I\'ve ordered as many of the replacement OEM plugs I can find and bought the recommend sensors for water temp and air temp that Link suggest. I\'ve bought a solid state relay for the PWM control of my water pump and I\'ve got one of Edd\'s Engine EWP adapter.
Plans are a foot !
Shaun
Good luck mate... It always an "Intresting" experience wiring stuff.
I got a kit car at home with a Pinto in.... Been trying to rewire that for ages, unfortunately int trying to figure out what some other numpty did and fix it.
Your job on the other hand should be more straight forward
The difference between the Apexi and the link is amazing. The final plan is to get rid of the stock dash and run a CANbus Dash, the contender at the minute is a MXL Strada to get rid of all the wiring under the dash and go to a single wire with all the sensors going off to the ECU to get datalogged and give more security if a sensor spots something.
I\'m looking at rewiring the whole car, moving the fuses and relays next the the battery behind the passenger seat. There isn\'t much of the original interior left anyway !
Shaun
Hey Shaun,
This sounds like an interesting winter project. You know to save weight you just have to say NO to that extra portion of Christmas Pud when its offered, instead of stripping copper out of the loom !! :rollin
Keep us updated with progress and good luck.
Chris
Can\'t wait to get rid of the clutter in the engine bay too ! Moving all the power and fuses to the backseat next to the battery too !
Pip suggested a 20kg saving if you get rid of the bunch of wires under the dash !
Can\'t refuse Christmas pud, that\'s one of the best bits of Christmas :p
This and the shorter diff will make for some interesting fun next year, will be implementing traction control too :D
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;865504Can\'t wait to get rid of the clutter in the engine bay too ! Moving all the power and fuses to the backseat next to the battery too !
Pip suggested a 20kg saving if you get rid of the bunch of wires under the dash !
Can\'t refuse Christmas pud, that\'s one of the best bits of Christmas :p
This and the shorter diff will make for some interesting fun next year, will be implementing traction control too :D
Shaun
You know your taking this track day thing a bit too far now....I\'ll just keep mine in 3rd if you like and save you all this expense and work !! :rollin:rollin:rollin
This could be fun. I looked at this for mine but can\'t justify it at this stage.
Its been on the cards for a few years. At one point with the LPG setup as well (staying on petrol for the time being !)
Just want it to pull out of the corners better :D
The wires are so manky they need sorting before it gets even more expensive, plus all the bits I\'m taking off still command good money !
Shaun
A good source for plugs and connectors here Shaun http://www.durite.co.uk/
Do yourself a favour though get a set of proper ratchet type crimping pliers designed for uninsulated terminals they\'re worth the cost 10x over.
I have a basic one, but I\'ve seen a nice set designed for the bosch connectors that should do a good job on most of the non insulated crimps.
Shaun
The Bosch connector is a standard weathertight connector Shaun so those will do all you need, you can manage with cheap ones or pliers but connections are always going to be suspect.
Not teaching you how to suck eggs but lots don\'t realise on uninsulated terminals the outer of the two crimps are designed to actually crimp onto the rubber water seal not the cable as most seem to do.
I didn\'t actually know that, learn something every day !
I\'ve considering getting the following crimps :
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/923
Shaun
Plugs arrived today from USA :D
Crimp tool above turned up too, looks a very pro bit of kit.
Shaun
Having a practice with the crip tool on some spare connectors. Think for the thinner wire I\'ll loop the wire back. The surface area in the crimp looks much better.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0232_zps9da92ffe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0232_zps9da92ffe.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0235_zps0c8a5215.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0235_zps0c8a5215.jpg.html)
Shaun
I\'ve ordered a brother PT-1010 because it prints on 6mm tapes. Plus its cheap at £12 :D http://www.labelzone.co.uk/brother-pt-1010-hand-held-label-printer/p2916 Ordered some black on yellow tape in 6mm width too :D
Shaun
When you get your crimps kit.....first thing to do is right TOP on the top.....really annoying when you open it upside now.....crimps everywhere and all mixed up.
Ah, it is only the tool on its own, the plugs and crimps all come bagged up !
Shaun
Well I learned something new about the weather pack terminals and the larger crimp.
Where did you order your terminals Shaun?
The none Mazda stuff has just come off ebay, the mazda stuff from Tripoint Engineering Ltd in USA.
Shaun
Update on incoming parts. Coils arrived, went for the AEM smart coils, removes the need for a ignitor. Should make a good spark too without all the hassle of the standard setup.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0242_zps5db0899f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0242_zps5db0899f.jpg.html)
Bought another plenum. Removed the secondary thottles and plan using the hole as the air temp sensor position using the reconmended bosch sensor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0237_zps64bc66a2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0237_zps64bc66a2.jpg.html)
Started cutting off bosses and unrequired lumps from the plenum.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0238_zpseacaa31b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0238_zpseacaa31b.jpg.html)
:censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::censored::censored: File and Angle grinder did the initial work to remove the most and shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0240_zpsbc3244a8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0240_zpsbc3244a8.jpg.html)
Image of location for the Air Sensor :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0241_zps7353b48d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0241_zps7353b48d.jpg.html)
Need to do a little machining in the hole and then machine up an adapter and cut out a mounting plate for the sensor then I\'ll farm out the smoothing and get it powdercoated, colour to be decided !
Shaun
Still trying my best to get my head around the coolant system. I\'m running an EWP and want to remove the pump body from the front of the engine. I have Edd\'s coolant block adapter and I\'m trying my best to understand how to plumb up the system, mainly for the pickup for the turbo and the filler neck.
I have a Crydom Solid state relay so I can control the pump speed via the link to help the system warm up time.
Shaun
You need to T out of the rad pipes, plenty of pipes available on eBay. Probably best T ing off the cool side of the rad, should get a better cooling effect for your turbo. You don\'t need an AST. Pump needs to be at the lowest point in the system and the filler neck needs to be the highest so air can bleed out.
Any other questions you need answering?
Sorted out paper templates in cad, Air temp sensor needed quite a few attempts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0246_zpsb639f719.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0246_zpsb639f719.jpg.html)
The other one will be cut by hand in 6mm alloy plate.
Shaun
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;865932You need to T out of the rad pipes, plenty of pipes available on eBay. Probably best T ing off the cool side of the rad, should get a better cooling effect for your turbo. You don\'t need an AST. Pump needs to be at the lowest point in the system and the filler neck needs to be the highest so air can bleed out.
Any other questions you need answering?
Kind of, Its more the outs and in\'s to be honest. I\'m looking at a custom swirl tank, sent a request off to http://www.evalution-designs.co.uk/Pages/Header%20Tanks.htm . I\'ve attached the 3d pdf I\'m after. I\'ll have to still find a home for the temp sensor too.
Shaun
Shaun are you keeping the heater, the heater matrix feed and return are a easy option if not for the turbo.
I do want the heater to still be in the car, it never really worked without one. Plus the feed is on the wrong side of the engine ! I think I\'ll tee off the return at the radiator where the matrix returns to the rad and have a tee off just after the pump for the turbo feed.
Shaun
Wow Shaun, this looks like an interesting winter project.
Good luck and keep us updated.
Chris
Still in the planning stage, got a replacement Powersteering bracket and PS pump and will turn that in to my alternator relocation bracket !
Aim is to make it as tidy as possible too :D
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;865992Still in the planning stage, got a replacement Powersteering bracket and PS pump and will turn that in to my alternator relocation bracket !
Aim is to make it as tidy as possible too :D
Shaun
What are the details of the replacement PS pump ? I\'ve been looking at doing something with mine. Even considered an electric rack !
Chris
Looking at doing something like the autodefined one where the bottom of the stock PS bracket is modified to take the alternator. I\'ll grind the bottom bosses and then machine a block to the bottom and weld it into position then machine the bottom pickup to take the alternator.
Thats the plan at least :Giggle
Shaun
Got my coolant swirl tank back from evolution, nice quick custom service for the pot. Forgot about the coolant bung so had to cut mine own and get it welded in place. Then tapped it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0252_zps9eac776e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0252_zps9eac776e.jpg.html)
Ground more off the powersteering bracket, roughly measured up position. Still need to cut up the mounting plates and work out the heights of the pulleys in relation to each other so I can shim them up to match before welding.
Started wiring up the common ignition wires, can\'t go much further without starting the re-wire in the car.
I\'ve been trying my best to work out what I need for my fuses and relays for the rest of the car. Looking at a 5 module system that allows you to chose which modules are needed.
Shaun
Not much of an update really. I want to sort out the coolant system and relocate the alternator first. The height of the alternator pulley is 1mm shorter than the powersteering so I\'m going to make a plate to shim up the assembly for welding to align them. Hopefully it will squeeze into the gap after welding.
Been labeling up all my bosch connectors in advance.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0256_zpsde8c03f4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0256_zpsde8c03f4.jpg.html)
After getting messed about with the headlights I\'ve decide to have a go at rewiring the pop ups from scratch. Ordered the switch over relay and I\'ll do a test with the passenger side.
Been trying to keep the car in a running state until I really know where the coolant system is at !
Shaun
Bit more on the project, Got my mounting plate through the post and got the shims and clamps for the alternator. Need to drill the setting plate and then get the brackets welded into place once its all setup.
Got another rather big parcel with the fuses, relays and power supply for the whole of the car. I\'m getting rid of all the original wiring as much as possible. I\'m amazed at how small it all is. The microrelays are tiny, even though I have 12 available ones for all the components. Had a really good service from Polevolt, can\'t reconmend them enough, everything is labeled up and turned up in very little time, top service.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0259_zps146063cb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0259_zps146063cb.jpg.html)
Planned as much out on paper while I ordered the parts and I still need more stuff, I didn\'t think about the electric window controls, going for a more basic up/down switch in the dash due to no door cards.
There is plenty of stuff to get on with :D
Shaun
Got my Aluminium Plate all lined up ready for the alternator brackets to be welded in place.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0262_zps357cf9e7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0262_zps357cf9e7.jpg.html)
Trying to get the profile as low as possible due to the space available.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0261_zps904cb4a6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0261_zps904cb4a6.jpg.html)
Shaun
Decided to do something mechanical over the past weeks of re-wiring the car systems ( which is slowly getting there). Finally got the power-steering bracket welded up to take the alternator and cleaned up and painted. Done a test fit and it all looks very nice. Got a good 15mm clearance between the alternator and the chassis rail of the car without and modifications to the rail, so very happy. Just need a new belt (4PK990, I think).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0271_zps1cdb7708.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0271_zps1cdb7708.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0273_zpsea85a731.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0273_zpsea85a731.jpg.html)
Not too well today (man-flu) so will carry on tomorrow !
Shaun
Where did you get the engine loom plugs from ,need a water temp one ?
From the states, tri-point engineering :
http://tripointengineering.com/index.php?cPath=830_832&osCsid=a388b16c1ec83595c7e930d8b3cbc3ab
Shaun
Been really busy with the front car loom, which includes all the lights (inc motors), indicators, horns, washer, wiper, alternator, starter.
Been a much bigger job (and loom) than expected !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0275_zps9b42032e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0275_zps9b42032e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0276_zpse318f7c9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0276_zpse318f7c9.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0278_zps8e1a7cbd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0278_zps8e1a7cbd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0280_zps0e21ca9b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0280_zps0e21ca9b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0279_zps415e8580.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0279_zps415e8580.jpg.html)
Quick update. Got the ECU mounting plate sorted, wired the FJO injector driver to the ECU. Only the extreme version will run them without ballast resistors. The FJO is a proper bit of kit, made good use of it with the PFC.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0286_zps3f56e843.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0286_zps3f56e843.jpg.html)
Plate will fit in the passenger inner footwell, there is much more room when all the electrics are removed !
Spent some of today working out which wires go into the engine bay and inside the car. Tidied all the bundles to make the next bit easier.
Removed the water Pump housing from the engine. Its amazing how large the housing is compared to Edd\'s Electronic water pump pickup. Ordered up all the hose for the new water setup, will need to workout the pipe connectors for the Heater return and coolant feed to the turbo.
Its progressing, just not very quickly !
Liking the progress so far dude
Got Secondary Fuel rail modified to take the fuel temp sensor in the week. Will get the rail re hard anodised once I happy with the layout and pull the engine out to clean the engine bay and paint the engine and gearbox.
Spent yesturday working out the coolant system and ordered some more parts. Should turn up in the week ready for next weekend.
Weather has been kind again today so I\'ve been working out all the cable lengths on the loom so I can add plugs indoors. Engine bay is looking way less cluttered than it has done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0288_zpsa1c659b8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0288_zpsa1c659b8.jpg.html)
Shaun
Do you need a fuel temp sensor?? I don\'t know whether to run one or not?
When I increased the size of my injectors on the PFC I asked Pip the same question because the rail I designed didn\'t have one. He said it did need it because there is quite a bit of correction on fuel temp. I think you would tune to worst case if it wasn\'t there and could run ricer at cooler fuel temps.
Safer to have it and just run off the wideband on the ecu (pinched narrow band input off the wiring layout).
Shaun
Got back from Pip\'s about an hour ago with my rebuilt 4.44 Diff.
Took a detour and went to Demon Tweeks for my Dash :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0294_zps107f5726.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0294_zps107f5726.jpg.html)
Just stuck it on my 12v supply and installed the software on my PC.
Got some 8mm spark plug leads and ordered a MSD crimping block off amazon to crimp them properly.
Shaun
Shaun, Love that dash !!! :Thumbsup! Gimmie
Its all mine :D
Started fiberglassing the new dash for it to be put in. Got some metal work to make and then smooth out the face with it in place (may get a friend to do the smoothing). Then its off to be flocked in the grey / silver I had before.
Only little niggle is I feel paid a small fortune for the ecu and the dash and neither come with the correct CANbus cable to plug the dash into the ecu !
Shaun
Shaun, "Only little niggle is I feel paid a small fortune for the ecu and the dash and neither come with the correct CANbus cable to plug the dash into the ecu !"
What language are you talking ??? :Talking1 :p :rollin
Talk about technology ! The dash has a datalogger as well and connects to the Link ECU to show all what it is seeing, the cable connecting them is a 5 wire jobbie that has some darn weird ends on (dash is a 712 5way and the link needs a altw mini cable from link)
The dash will datalog too and I\'m drooling over the GPS add on for the dash to show where you where on track in the datalogging :)
Don\'t worry, you know I\'m a jiggering wreck with stuff like this :p
Should be a fun year if it all comes together !
Shaun
Did I mention I\'m from Lancashire (up North !) :p
Shaun
Stupid question here Shaun , but is the ecu ODBII compliant ?
And if so , does it have an output to it ?
Or is that just in everyday cars these days ?
it would seem not
http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/860897503
Hey Sean in your quest for new plugs did you get new CAS sensor plugs? The white and the grey ones?
Quote from: grinder;872890Stupid question here Shaun , but is the ecu ODBII compliant ?
And if so , does it have an output to it ?
Or is that just in everyday cars these days ?
Only the G4+ have the obd2 function on them ! The dash is designed to talk to the ecu directly over the CANbus network. Unfortunately the standard doesn\'t specify a standard plug to allow for an off the shelf standard cable ! Amazingly you go in the config software and just tell it you have a G4 Link and it adds all the data layers the G4 sees. Should all be gravy !
Found out the dash is a Binder 712 plug, so ordered that on ebay and Link sells a CANDASH cable that has the right plug on the other end and 2m of cable. Bit of soldering and I\'ll have the correct cable !
Getting there in a round about way !
Shaun
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;872908Hey Sean in your quest for new plugs did you get new CAS sensor plugs? The white and the grey ones?
Bought them from USA , http://tripointengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=4154&osCsid=3ac5cfaad05782fcf63914ab72811fdd
Shaun
OMG Shaun, looks like you are going to have a lot of work this winter can wait to see the results.
When you say that you are rewiring the loom in the pictures are they the old one next to the new one ?
That\'s a good find for the connectors as well "tri-point engineering" I think a lot of us will be using them.
Hope it all goes well mate see you soon.
:Thumbsup!
They are just the new loom for just the basic stuff in the car, the engine loom is separate and there is a dash and sensor loom too !
Got a lot done, still loads to do too !
Shaun
With the joys of the English Weather (and half of Britain under water) I\'ve been doing indoors stuff since the car isn\'t inside (garage isn\'t big enough ). Frenched the Digi Dash in to the 2nd hand gauge cluster.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0301_zps308d6c7d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0301_zps308d6c7d.jpg.html)
Done the first rough smooth and I\'m going to pass it to a friend to finish off (he has much greater skills and tools).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0302_zps7d428eeb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0302_zps7d428eeb.jpg.html)
Once they have smoothed it I\'ll send it off and get it flocked to the grey with silver fleck I have on the matching parts (may get the others redone too). Dome still needs the rubbery finish taking off and flocking in black (original had lost all its clip points).
Cable and plug has arrived for the CANbus. Just going to use the whole 2m length cable and soldier the plug in the right config.
Shaun
Note to self - Read instructions at least once, digest and read again :rolleyes:
Only needed the Linkecu digidash cable and not the Binder 712 plug for the CANbus ! The power feed cable is connected to the rest of the CANbus connector ! All tidied up ready to go in (just used the whole 2m of the cable)
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;873155Note to self - Read instructions at least once, digest and read again :rolleyes:
:Hammer:Hammer:Laugh:Laugh I\'ve never made that mistake............ ;)
Took me a good hour to figure the bloomin thing out, they just didn\'t make the most sense !
Shaun
Shaun,
You know it will all be worth it in the end......:3gears-lh
Chris
Oh yes :D
Shaun
Got my dash back all smoothed. Flashed a coat of grey primer over it to simulate the original grey flocking of the original setup.
He has done an awesome job.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0304_zps9360f17f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0304_zps9360f17f.jpg.html)
Although I\'m not completely sure on the silver with the Black of the Didi-dash. May go back to black, what do you think ?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0305_zps06a5c1a8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0305_zps06a5c1a8.jpg.html)
Shaun
what about white ?
He\'d painted it in white primer and it was super bright ! I think I\'ll stick with the original grey flock, its a shade darker and fluffy :D
Shaun
I think you should go with block as the leds / display will stand out more it think.
I\'d go black if it were mine I think. Any chance of a pic with it mocked up in the dash?
Ade
I just don\'t want it all black, the silver did look very cool with the original dash, but this is more of a flat face !
I\'ll be chucking the dash back in to wire up the rest of the gauges and get some images up. Hopefully I can check the connection to the ECU too. Weather hasn\'t been all that helpful.
Shaun
Quote from: TiddlesRX7;873392I\'d go black if it were mine I think. Any chance of a pic with it mocked up in the dash?
Ade
Well I\'ve not had a good week really (not completely sure why) and my luck is utter junk at the minute. I\'d not put the dash in place with the new digi dash. I\'d roughly worked out the proper position looking at the original dials.
Set the bloomin thing too low down and have had to cut the mount out and will need to basically re-fiberglass it back in a new position :( I need to angle it slightly more too !
Decided not to touch anything else today, especially when the next job is repositioning the fuel regulator !
Definitely going for the grey though because it looks good in position.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0308_zps1e525752.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/shaunwil/media/DSCF0308_zps1e525752.jpg.html)
Shaun
Well the dash is now modified in a much higher position and I\'ve started plumbing the fuel system back up with the FPR half hidden for neatness.
Just written a Snagging List to get a grip on what is left to do :
1.Position Fuel Regulator
2.Plumb Fuel Lines
3.Fix Engine loom in place
4.Wire Alternator plug and 12v Alarm Bulb (regulates Charge)
5.Wire relay and main power feed for Ecu Fusebox
6.Wire Relay and main power feed for the Gauges
7.Wire Dash and Gauges
8.Wire Wideband 5v into ECU
9.Wire main car loom positive Feed.
10.Measure and order flexi brake lines for all brakes and Clutch (re-route rear brakes and clutch feed out of engine bay) - Include adding Vacuum assist back into the system (using 2 remote vacuum boosts)
11. Measure up and fit all jublie clips to any line that require it (all the coolant system)
12.Re-wire the fan system. Got Aluminium bar for holders for 2 temp gauges (87/85 and 100/95). Wire in to allow for medium and Highe control of the stock fans.
13. Mount all the car loom in place.
14. Repair the headlight covers and order fresh bulbs for headlights.
15. Remove dash and tidy all wiring under the dash, reinstall dash.
16. Remove door connector and re-wire electric windows into new switches in the dash.
This is just the beginning of the list of stuff to finish off to get it into a tunable position. This isn\'t even fully clean with a painted bay !
Shaun
I have to agree actually. The grey does look good. Shame about having to relocate it again, but these things unfortunately happen. When its all done it\'ll make you feel better mate. Keep up the good work.
Ade
looks like you are going to be busy again mate. the grey dash does look good can\'t wait to see it powered up it\'s going to look cool.
Aiming to get it up and running by April. Won\'t be clean though, that will come later.
Spent today removing the door plugs and drilling a hole through for the electric windows. I\'ve pulled the dash back out and started tidying up all the wires in the final position. Wired up all the gauges and started wiring the petrol gauge and charge alarm into the dash.
Ordered replacement flexible lines for the clutch system and the rear brakes. Will be routing them in a different place inside the car away from the engine bay.
Shaun
are you not running braided flexi hoses on the rear already ?
I\'m running braided flexi between the hardlines and the calipers, but I going to swap out the main hardline to the rear for braided flexi too and run it through the car. I\'m going to remove all the hardline and flexi for the clutch and run a single flexi line to the clutch routed through the side of the gearbox tunnel.
Shaun
I need to re-route the stupid feed lines from the master cylinders too and swap out to banjo bolts on the master cylinders. The original fixings on the master cylinder side make it an absolute pig to remove (nothing swivels making it a nightmare). Should be able to reuse the pipe because it should go through a shorter route.
Shaun
ohhh sounds good matey
only reason i asked is that i was going to try and nick a rear braided line if you were swaping them out :)
Wow Shaun, That looks like a mighty snagging list, but I\'m sure it will be worth it in the end.
What\'s your plans for the FD this year ?
Chris
I\'ve got a session and room booked for Japfest :D Will be trying to get some trackdays in over the year as usual.
The snagging list looks worse than it is (I hope it is anyway) !
Shaun
Had a good couple of weekends, got my head around the power distribution of the main car (binned the MTA modular setup because I couldn\'t rewire the darn thing once wires where installed) .
I\'ve got the holder for 6 midi fuses to feed all the different systems. Most of the wiring is now done for this bar the power feed to the relays for the fan switches (all this needs wiring in front of car).
I\'ve wired up the 1st fusebox (6way) direct to the battery. The main feed to the original controls. I\'ve already wired the new hazard switch to the indicator stalk but I\'ve got an issue. The hazards work perfectly (once I\'d fixed a minor mistake !). Indicating right works perfectly but turning left turns all the indicators on ! Hopefully not a major problem, will go through the wiring next weekend and see where I have gone wrong :Hammer
The 2nd fusebox (10 way) is wired up everything ECU related including the waterpump. This is energized in both positions on the Key Turn. This is pretty much complete but hasn\'t been tested yet.
The 3rd fusebox (10way) is wired up to give the power for all the other systems in the car such as headlights (plus headlight popup motors), brake lights, water injection and other stuff that I\'ve forgotten about that is run on a relay ! Writing this I need to check when this is turned on the key !
The 4th fusebox (6 way) is hidden under the interior panels that is left over the tunnel and is on the 1st part of the key. This is running power for all the gauges, the dashboard, the electric window controls (complete and working) and the relay switches for the heated front and rear screens (complete and working).
I\'ve got a MTA mini relay holder (7 way jobbie) to rewire into the circuit for any standard stuff that needs a relay, still considering if one will be man enough for the fuel pump relay (probably go for a stock 40 amp one). This still needs wiring back in and is the next job on the to-do list.
I\'ve shortened the fuel hard lines and plumbed up to the the fuel system with -6 hard line adapters. All the pipes are cut and positioned. Regulator position now sorted, just need to drill the chassis rail and screw it in its final resting place. Need to plumb the vacuum feed for the FPR too. Vent line has been removed from under the car and need to look what I should do at the charcoal filter.
I\'ve repositioned the vac lines between the oil filler neck, the air filter and the oil injectors. Moved the pipes to position them more out of sight for tidiness.
So on the snagging list :
1.Position Fuel Regulator - 80% Done
2.Plumb Fuel Lines - 90% Done
3.Fix Engine loom in place
4.Wire Alternator plug and 12v Alarm Bulb (regulates Charge)
5.Wire relay and main power feed for Ecu Fusebox 80% Done
6.Wire Relay and main power feed for the Gauges 80% Done
7.Wire Dash and Gauges 50% Done
8.Wire Wideband 5v into ECU Done
9.Wire main car loom positive Feed. 75% Done
10.Measure and order flexi brake lines for all brakes and Clutch (re-route rear brakes and clutch feed out of engine bay) - Include adding Vacuum assist back into the system (using 2 remote vacuum boosts) Lines and fittings turned up for Clutch and rear brakes, waiting to be fit
11. Measure up and fit all jublie clips to any line that require it (all the coolant system)
12.Re-wire the fan system. Got Aluminium bar for holders for 2 temp gauges (87/85 and 100/95). Wire in to allow for medium and High control of the stock fans. 10% Done
13. Mount all the car loom in place.
14. Repair the headlight covers and order fresh bulbs for headlights.Bulbs on Order
15. Remove dash and tidy all wiring under the dash, reinstall dash. Dash out, still wiring towards tidy
16. Remove door connector and re-wire electric windows into new switches in the dash. Done and works
Shaun
:) Wow, you\'ve been very busy Shaun. Puts me to shame as I\'ve not touched the FB in weeks; but I blame it on a heavy workload at the moment :(
Well done Shaun you are really cracking on now I don\'t know you have got your head round all the wires mine would be pickled LOL
Cheers guys, Deadline is end of April to be fully tuned and Mot\'d again.
Still loads to do, but its all the little jobs that are needed too.
Can\'t for the life of me remember where the mirror adjuster is on the car (haven\'t move the mirrors in 10yrs !). I haven\'t wired the circuit in but need to look into it !
I\'ve been lucky with the weather, fingers crossed most will be done in the next 4 weeks ready to give pip to tune !
Shaun
Well its been 1 step forward and 2 steps back in the last couple of weekends.
Finally got the main car loom in only to find not much of it actually worked. So out with the multimeter and went through each circuit fixing any faults.
I now have low beam, standard beam, high beam lights. Plus the popup headlight system fully works. The horn works, all the indicators worked correctly (fixed my issue). Rear lights and brake lights work . Reverse still needs wiring into dash.
My Starter motor now works and the alternator is all wired up.
All the power distribution for the gauges is wired in with the relay working correctly (all bar the grounds).
I\'ve spent some of today re-plumbing the clutch system with a new master cylinder (seals had gone), banjo connection at the MS and new flexi line from MS direct to the slave. Re bled the system and checked for leaks !
Ordered some new master cylinders (proper AP racing ones) with smaller bores, looking at reducing pedal effort. Hopefully I\'ll get better braking control too.
Basically lots of little jobs that all feel like not much has been done, but they all have to get done !
Go Monday night to pick the wings up to replace my crusty looking ones, should be a weight reduction too :D
Shaun
Oh and the fan system is 90% there too now, metal puttyed the sensors on to the rad at the outlet (will get covered up by a cover eventually). Just have to connect the ground on the relay up to the switches and then off to the body and tape up all the wires and its done too !
Shaun
Well done Shaun. Looking forward to seeing and watching (on track) the results of all this hard work.
Chris
Yes, that\'s a mammoth task you\'ve undertaken there Shaun, well done! I look forward to seeing you at Japfest very soon :cheers
Think I\'m getting there now. Won\'t look very good at Japfest because the engine and gear box needs pulling out and the engine bay wants a really good clean and paint. Plus all the engine bits won\'t be powdercoated until I\'m happy everything actually works.
Ordered a replacement headlight motor from Jimmy\'s, so that will go in next weekend too !
Shaun
Picked my carbon wings up last night off Carbon RX. These things weigh so little, will weigh up the difference between the steel and carbon.
Shaun
:eek: I\'ll have to stop eating pies if I\'m going t keep up to you on track this year !! :god
Chris :wave
I\'m hoping car will be 40 - 50kg lighter with the new loom and carbon wings :D
Just need to get it sorted now, then we shall see :D
Shaun
40 kg from removing wires?!!!
And wings!
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;87667440 kg from removing wires?!!!
Pip thought I\'d loose about 20kg just by sorting the wiring out. I can understand why when you get rid of all the lengths of thick wire that go all the way round the car. The stock loom is massive in the whole of the car.
I\'m hoping the rest comes from removing the standard pump housing and relocating the alternator, changing the coolant system and swapping to carbon wings.
Shaun
Reasonably successful weekend.
Got the AP masters installed and found I\'d ordered the wrong pickup for the brake bias gauge. Replacement parts ordered. Need to sort a mounting plate up as well (old setup the hard pipes held the sensor blocks in place, new setup is all flexi !). Installed a new flexi line to the back splitter on the car and covered it over with all the standard covers. Awaiting banjos before cutting to length in side the car.
Took all the many wires that make up the heater part of the loom (more wires than you could every conceive !) and after a little issue (the wire colours don\'t match in a couple of places) the heater and fan system now all works too :D
Started wiring the water injection pump up to the new relay for full ecu control. Should have a separate map for the water too in the ecu :)
Interior wiring is getting tidied up and cables ties are holding everything in place.
Got to pull heater back out and start looking at concentrating on the engine bay again and then the ecu checks.
Going to book Pip for the end of the month, probably won\'t get the diff swapped out for Japfest but it depends on the weather !
Shaun
Hi Shaun, How the project going not had an update for a while? hope it\'s still going well.
Its getting there ! Been to Pips once so far for the initial tune and had a load of issues with my wiring ! Been going through all the problems putting them right. Very close to getting there now.
Got engine loom back in and tried starting the car only to find my battery is now toast. The pure lead batteries only really last a couple of years before they don\'t really hold enough charge to start the car.
Fingers crossed by the end of the month the car will have been back to pips, then its an MOT and tax away from running again !
Shaun
Nice one can\'t wait to see thr results
Me too :D
Should be fun !
Me three :)
Battery turned up and fired car back up for first time since issues at pips. Got to sort out an issue with the wiper wiring, wire in new rad fan controller in. Then some tidying up then back to pips.
Long time and a bit of a thread revival really.
Finally got all the gremlins resolved such as not getting enough voltage to the primaries because I\'d put too many things off the same relay. Split them off to their own relays and tidied the wiring up and its all gravy.
Finally found other part of the fueling issue, I\'d plumbed the fuel system wrong, I\'d got the FPR the wrong way round and then got the feed and return wrong. The FPR was showing the correct pressure but the injectors was only seeing the return pressure of about 11psi. Can had been very roughly tuned off boost to this fuel pressure so all it showed up as a miss-fueling issue pointing more towards the new engine loom. Pip only spotted it once he stuck an in-line gauge in the rails !
Then the wastegate had too big a spring for the ecu to control the boost as compared to the Profec B. I think the car is running lower boost too and still making the same power as the Apexi on standard plugs ! Making a nice 380bhp at the wheels.
Finally been able to go out in the dry and give the car a bit of a run and its very nice. Very deceiving on its grunt because the power is so smooth, you would think it was a NA if you didn\'t hear the turbo. The best description is "Crisp". Without a doubt it will make a very good stable trackday car without the power suddenly coming.
I need to move my dash down because the shift lights are obscured by the steering wheel. Just going to slot the holes in the dash and drop it down by 5mm. Once I\'m happy I\'ll be posting it off for flocking in silver and black to match the rest of the dash.
I still need to properly configure my fuel level indicator on the dash but that can wait till next spring. I have a rough gauge and its working ok for the time being.
The plug has pulled off the switch for the windscreen de-mist but will look at it when I next have the dash off.
Amazed at the amount of work that needs to be done to re-wire a whole car, The only advise I would give to anybody thinking about doing it is to sit down and plan as much as you can. I got very familiar with the wiring diagrams and still had to fix a lot of stuff using a multimeter. Laying out as much on paper and working out relays and what should be on when the key is in various positions is a must. I didn\'t do this originally and I re-did work because I didn\'t really grasp some concepts !
Shaun
:Party:Party:Party Sounds like you are finally at the end of that long, dark tunnel! Hope to see you out on track in 2015 then :Thumbs-up
Oh yes, Let me at it :D
Shaun
Great news Shaun, really happy for you.
So, you think about 380 rwhp and I think you\'ve been buying light weight body panels, so you should have a much quicker car for 2015.
Bring on the FUN :Party :3gears-lh
Chris
And Rx8 Diff :D Should be plenty of fun for sure. Its probably running more conservative boost as well because I\'m running just the standard 9\'s all round for spark plugs.
Here\'s looking forward to 2015 :D
How much weight have you managed to shed from the FD ?
Think I\'ll be on a diet after Christmas !! :cheers
Hard to say really. I might get pip to do a corner-weight check on the car before next year really gets going. I\'d be surprised it not as much as expected, probably 20-30kg at a guesstimate.
Shaun
nice work dude!!!
Great work Shaun bet you had a lot of sleepless nights cant wait to see it running again.
Been busy on the car since last October really, so many niggles that had to be re-done. Must have had the engine loom in and out at least 10 times !!!
Next step as well is to get the traction control working too, but the front abs sensor isn\'t sending info back to the ecu, need to work out if its the sensor of the loom !
Shaun
Hi Shaun, any more news on your project ? as its been quite for sometime.
Sorry, haven't really updated the info lately !
Car is up and running, now running a new fuel rail system. Pip retuned the car and its running 430bhp at the flywheel :)
Now running a Wilwood pedalbox setup which still needs a bit of setup time to get right. Running the larger late spec rear brakes too bought off Matt on Fduk.
Got some bush issues in the rear suspension to fix soon and get the car MOT'd !
Been trying to get an Oulton Trackday sorted too !
Shaun
That's good news then through things might not be going to well. If you get to oulton park let me know and will see if I can get there as well.
Well done Shaun, its been an epic trial getting this sorted, but it sounds like your nearly finished.
Chris
Oh yes, epic is an understatement !
Shaun
Well done, hopefully we will see you out and about again now :)
Oh yes :)
I think I've found my worn bush, upper control arms have some play in them, hardly any really but feels wrong (shows how tight every thing is).
Just checking dm motorsport have upper and lower control arms in stock then I'm ordering another upgrade :)
Shaun
Can't wait to see all your hard work mate