Basically I been told after the remap to change my back box and the plugs to 10s and drive it normal till the next remap ,beside the car was running bit rough and high to 1300 1400 rpm before I change them,also I discover a burst hose and exhaust leak from the turbo manifold and small leak from the joint between the mid pipe and down pipe but I got sorted after the car remapped then I have changed the back box to 3 inch straight throw and the plugs to 10s and clean the ISC and when I start the car the idle very low like 400 and then I tried to adjust the screw and start the idle rise a bit till it settle to 1000 and the car was very smooth but low idle what is should be then I drove the car to the gym witches not far and on very normal speed no rev or high boost at all comes to the traffic first gear and the car lost power and sound like tractor and it get worse in noise if I rev it more than 2000 so I turned back to my house all way on first gear doing 10 mph can\'t go more than that with very load noise comes out the exhaust pulled home and I opened the bonnet the engine rattle and shakes badly and the idle stuck on 1500 with no smoke or anything all oil pressure and water temp and injectors reading normal a part from the engine rattle, noise if I rev it, and no power at all.
Done compression test rear rotor 0 compression and the front still very strong.
But the car still turn over easy before I take the engine a part any idea what might happen here please it\'s very weird situation .
I know maybe most people gonna say the rear tip gone but I wanna know why this happen after I changed the spark plugs and clean the ISC then start the car very low idle 400 or 500 and then I adjust the screw rise to 1000 smooth then drove normal and then lost power with load noise and engine rattle and shakes badly ..
the engine maybe already on its way out, eg if there was a crack in the apex seal it may have dislodged itself.
How old is the engine, spec? what does your mapper think could be wrong?
Right the engine was rebuild in 2010 with reworx and when I bought the car went for project (veilside) for 11 months then got back last winter and I went away for two months so it sat down again so all together I would say the engine done 3 to 4000 max since rebuild ,Jay don\'t reply to me kareem don\'t know either and I\'m getting confused here trying to analyse things before I took it a part,I will rebuild the engine no problem but I wanna know what\'s went wrong after the new plugs fitted and fix few leaks..
The engine is large port with racing internal like reworx said to me...
I
Is that the rotor where you dropped part of the diffuser into?
you could have always had a wiring fault which has reared its head and lunched your engine, many causes that can blow the engine
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;863273Is that the rotor where you dropped part of the diffuser into?
diffuser?
well if a diffuser has gone through the engine its only a matter of time it was going to go
This quite possibly links back to all the comments left in the other thread about dropping a diffuser into the engine then turning the engine over. It could however of been something as simple as a plug lead not fully on a plug after changing them.
Sadly no matter what its got to come apart anyway so evidence of the true cause should be found then
Ali did get it back out but if it was in that rotor housing then it could have caused something that\'s lead towards this situation.
Engine out I\'m afraid, or a proper Mazda compression test to be exactly sure
Maybe the leading coil or trailing not getting single from the ecu and it runs on one rotor I been seeing some videos rx7 runs on one rotor with no rattling or load noise from the exhaust I know the rear rotor reads 0 compresstion but I still don\'t know what happen,this is happen after I put the 10s in and start the car with very low idle 500 and then I adjust the screw on the throttle start rise and settle on 1000 smooth then I drove a bout 200 meter and lost power and load noise I can\'t even rev it to 3000
Have you got the plug leads on the right way?
Ok I only broke the lower half part the diffuser and then I took it out from the turbo manifold so maybe I missed very small bits in but I couldn\'t find ,we remapped the car and drove back 4 hours and drive for a week after with no problem only rough idle due to some leaks I found and sorted but it need to be remapped on new condition
Dude that engine is fubarred , a dropped diffuser in the engine is a ticking time bomb, it might not go straight away but it will go.
If you put a piston engine tester on there and its reading nothing I am afraid 2 out the 3 apex seals are gone, probably debris from the diffuser worked its way into the apex seal grroves
I have checked the plugs leads and they all in right place but I will check again 2mo if the seals gone the engine not gonna rattle and shakes like that and make very load noise from the exhaust if I rev it I don\'t know I\'m just saying because I can\'t find anything online have smellier problem ATM...confused.com
Ok I will take the engine a part and replace the damage,and go for bridge port this time..
But I still wanna check few things before tear it a part ..
I keep saying that for a million times now i took out the diffuser maybe very tinny small bits I missed that\'s all ..
mate you need to be clear. you say one rotor has zero compression have you actually tested this or at least listened to see if it chuffs with a plug out??? or do you mean one rotor is doing nothing and not firing???? they are 2 different things.
if the rotor has no compression and its the one where you dropped the diffuser into then the whole forum will join in and say told you so :yes:yes:yes
if you just mean its a loss of power on one rotor and you have just done plugs etc on it then check your leads as its pretty early to break one if it was stuck a little and you pulled it by the lead and not by the cap.
I have tested the front rotor reads over 96 psi on piston engine tester and the rear is nothing and with both sparks out front chuffs and rear nothing ...
It\'s like no firing comes out from the rear at all I don\'t know if it\'s actshly turns inside..
Quote from: Aliakeel;863292I have tested the front rotor reads over 96 psi on piston engine tester and the rear is nothing and with both sparks out front chuffs and rear nothing ...
this alone proves you have knackered the engine 100%. the leads spark etc has nothing to do with compression and will make no difference to it in any way.
there is nothing left to do here except pull the engine and strip it down.
remember the other thread when everyone told you not to turn the engine over because the little bits of plastic would work there way into the seals. well mate you have learnt the hard way to the tune of a couple of grand why you dont force or rush working on engines you have to be methodicall, know what you are doing and if you havent got the experience no matter how :censored::censored::censored::censored:y or confident you are, you have to listen to those that know what they are talking about
I have learned a lot now and I will rebuild the engine I got few plans already...no rush this time ...
Cheers
Good to hear you want to get it rebuilt straight away and not lost interest like a few people do when the engines let go.
What you should do now is ask what you want out of the car, you don\'t necesarily need a bridge port, a good street port can give you a lot of enjoyment and driveability
Yes I know I\'m wanna go for extend port now might take the engine out and send it for a rebuild or if I find an engine block to swap with cash on top see what options I choose.
Right engine rebuild by Tim and when he start the car yesterday it has the same problem I had before I took the car for rebuild witches loud noise and engine shakes and can\'t rev it over 3 rpm, he reckons the injectors don\'t flow right and engine not getting enough fuel but the injectors brand new, he has check everything map sensor ,coils ,leads ,connection and grounds no luck,is anyone know what the hell is going on ?
If he thinks the injectors aren\'t right change the injectors and see if the problem resolves?
Just because something is brand new doesn\'t mean it\'s in good working order.
He also thinks it need mapping as jaydee didn\'t have the flow data chart for the 2000 and 1000 ID so he didn\'t know the exact volt for right fuel pressure and dead time that\'s why the injectors don\'t operate right at that time I took it to him and the car start running rough after that and gettin worse day by day till I lost power and start making noise ,I found few leaks and sorted but still the mapping issue there.
They cost me 800£ for the system so I have to waste more money now to buy old Bosch once and crappy rails my system is the most expensive than other brands I don\'t think is the injectors problem , u can make the injectors flow whatever u want when u map it but it has to be right volt and pressure to operate them correctly
Can\'t the manufacturer provide the flow details for your injectors? Pretty crappy if they can\'t TBH
They did mate but I lost it somewhere.
Shall we flow test them again?
You can also get the flow detail on dynamics injectors website everything the mapper needs to do it right.
Did I miss something?
You said "jaydee didn\'t have the flow data chart"
If that\'s available from the manufacturer, why didn\'t you get it and give it to him?
Because I wasn\'t aware of it and I didn\'t know he need it I thought that\'s his job not mine. He should said look I can\'t do it without the chart.
Shoulda woulda coulda...
Well now you know, go grab it and get the map checked with the correct info :)
We gonna send them to flow test and we go from there.
Furry muff.
When you left us after the car was mapped it was fine and you drove all the way back to Wales, then all of a sudden the wrong "flow data" kicked in and made the car run rough?? What are you talking about correct fuel pressure?
Curiouser and curiouser :D
Oh after the map did you drive home at all over 3k? I drove it to 8k, now if it doesn\'t rev to over 3k after a new engine, it\'s the map is that what you mean?
Just quickly scanned this thread but if it wont rev past 3k and is very rough below has anyone checked the omp ?
ignore this if its way off as i dont have time to read the whole thread :)
The car don\'t hold idle Jay and stall right away and runs really rough ring Tim and ask him, how do I have the same problem before and everyone said I blow my engine and I have new engine now with same problem how do you explain that forum people ???maybe I wasn\'t blow in first place but no just blame me all time rather then solve the problem..
We have checked everything that might cause the problem with no luck except the map because Tim can\'t access it...everyone said rebuild the engine and I did but guess what I still have the same problem as I have before the build.....
All we need is to start the car and run it normal then I can drive it home and break in miles to fallow ...
Quote from: Aliakeel;865373The car don\'t hold idle Jay and stall right away and runs really rough ring Tim and ask him, how do I have the same problem before and everyone said I blow my engine and I have new engine now with same problem how do you explain that forum people ???maybe I wasn\'t blow in first place but no just blame me all time rather then solve the problem..
Before blaming us the forum members, did you actually get the engine checked by a specialist to confirm it was a blow engine? You know a compression test like everybody gets done when blown engine is suspected?
Yes they said it blow but why I have exactly the same problem now doesn\'t make senesce ,I don\'t want to say more because it will kick off here and I can\'t be arse I had enough from this car ...spend so much money already and still don\'t run and have the same problem with old engine and new engine .
In end the day I\'m not blaming anyone here ,I just learned my lesson in future I do everything myself if I messed up then only myself to blame not having a second thought ,but I know now i don\'t blame myself because I didn\'t do anything wrong with car it just happen over the sudden at the traffic light lost power and loud noise and engine shakes and I still have the same problem even with new engine...
You will get a reward if you know the problem. :)
Quote from: Aliakeel;865379In end the day I\'m not blaming anyone here ,I just learned my lesson in future I do everything myself if I messed up then only myself to blame not having a second thought ,but I know now i don\'t blame myself because I didn\'t do anything wrong with car it just happen over the sudden at the traffic light lost power and loud noise and engine shakes and I still have the same problem even with new engine...
You will get a reward if you know the problem. :)
Mate, normally I don\'t get involved in these kinda topics due to various reasons. Put it this way, I have 3 FDs. My single turbo 13b is built and mapped by Jaydee. I can not recommend Jaydee enough for both building and mapping. The whole rotary community knows his skills. Hence, there is no need to talk about him.
As far your car is concerned, there could be thousands of reasons for it to behave like this. You said, you checked all the relevant stuff, but have you actually checked your engine\'s wiring loom? I would agree with you on getting the injectors flow tested.
Please don\'t get upset with the car. It\'s a beautiful car and once it\'s sorted it would add beauty to the roads it will be driven on :thumbsup:.
Apart from Jaydee, I believe that WGT (Pip) would be your next port of call simply because he knows his stuff really well and strangely I feel that he is closer to you? Blitzboy is also a great mapper but, sometimes ago he mentioned that he would only map cars built by oldone or Reworx.
In nutshell, please stop spending unnecessary money on the car. Get it mapped and enjoy it ;)
Mir
Quote from: Aliakeel;865379In end the day I\'m not blaming anyone here ,I just learned my lesson in future I do everything myself if I messed up then only myself to blame not having a second thought ,but I know now i don\'t blame myself because I didn\'t do anything wrong with car it just happen over the sudden at the traffic light lost power and loud noise and engine shakes and I still have the same problem even with new engine...
You will get a reward if you know the problem. :)
uhm i thought you did the chuff test and found one rotor had no noise so the engine was fubbard which pointed to your lack of knowledge regarding working on these cars with the whole diffuser dropping issue.
if you now say the engine wasnt broken isnt that again pointing to your lack of knowledge as you carried out the chuff test yourself to confirm the issue???
you must of got feedback from tim regarding your engine did he say he found no damage inside when he stripped it???
i think the big thing i take from your threads is if you dont know what you are doing then dont touch these cars let people that know what they are doing sort it and save yourself a great deal of money.
(Mir ) I\'m not blaming Jay at all all I said we didn\'t have the data flow and dead time for the injectors that time ,and I contact dynamic in America they said you have to fallow there data flow chart provided on there website to make the injectors oparate right same as the map sensor AEM 3.5 bar we didn\'t have the table or scale and offset to do it,
(cyman) as usual mate you keep have ago for no reason so I\'m not gonna explain myself to you really ,the car went for most expert people in uk and they still don\'t know what\'s wrong with it so I don\'t know what lack of knowledge you talking a bout the car not with me to check things,also if anyone have 30k car sepnt on with new engine and can\'t make it run for 5 mints you will be fusterated big time ...
These what I\'m talking a bout Any mapper need to fallow these to do there job right..
Yes I\'m not an expert but that\'s what I been told by people make these injectors so im sure they will know better than anyone else what they talking about
My set of injectors cost me 650£ not cheap old Bosch from the 70s..
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag145/Aliakeel2007/ED8479DB-8217-4A03-AAD1-401C1418EA0A-3583-00001366B2F6AE67_zpsbc0e1026.jpg)
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag145/Aliakeel2007/6CBA8478-1F26-4EA1-B982-A733AB5872CE-3583-00001366B236391F_zps2984927b.jpg)
And again im not blaming anyone I\'m just :censored::censored::censored::censored:t off no1 can know what wrong with car or willing to help rather than have ago and blame me again as usual ...what\'s the point we have forum and u can\'t say what u want or what happen ...
I said what I want not gonna reply here again if Clive delete the thread that be great ...
I have to wait and see how we gonna fix the problem next week...
And I\'m sorry a bout anything I said but it\'s the truth...
As Steve Guarbett has said... Have you checked the OMP?
Quote from: Arnie_O;865415As Steve Guarbett has said... Have you checked the OMP?
Yes mate and it works fine..
Mate, take it to Pip (WGT) and I bet any money he wil fix it. I am talking from experience. ....
Mir
It is very hard to diagnose things through people\'s descriptions on the Internet. Any rotary specialist should be able to find the problem of they have the car in front of them.
I would say its probably a wiring issue somewhere.
Broken injector cable maybe?
Quote from: Mir;865419Mate, take it to Pip (WGT) and I bet any money he wil fix it. I am talking from experience. ....
Mir
Having said that ^^^... i have personally heard Pip praising Jayde for his knowledge..
Mir
Keep the faith mate....When the cars sorted it will be worth it. Hope you get it fixed soon.
Yea I told Tim the same thing it\'s wiring issue somewhere but he said he checked everything, also we gonna flow test the injectors but it\'s not gonna be the issue because they brand new,I can\'t go there and see the car because I\'m busy in week but I\'m going there next sat to sort something out but I hope he will figure out before that,and I told him to ring people he know and explain the problem and I\'m sure they will know what\'s wrong with it...
Who installed the engine?
From our numerous text yesterday, I still see you think the settings are wrong and your "other people do" even though I explained over and over to you, if they know so much surely they can fix it?
Please answer did your car drive the way it is now after mapping, if no then surely logic would say that something else has happened if it is running the same after a new engine. Do you understand those tables and what they do?
My opinion would be to check, crank sensors and wiring, trigger wheel pulley if bent, primary injectors through hand commander raising the percentage front and rear to see if it has the same effect on the idle, check injector connectors are on the correct injector, what are the wideband readings, have you tried raising or lowering the Pim voltage, which is a easy way to add or subtract fuel.
There\'s more things, but I don\'t know why I bothered with the above, oh and this will be my last post here.
Quote from: Aliakeel;865413(Mir ) I\'m not blaming Jay at all all I said we didn\'t have the data flow and dead time for the injectors that time ,and I contact dynamic in America they said you have to fallow there data flow chart provided on there website to make the injectors oparate right same as the map sensor AEM 3.5 bar we didn\'t have the table or scale and offset to do it,
(cyman) as usual mate you keep have ago for no reason so I\'m not gonna explain myself to you really ,the car went for most expert people in uk and they still don\'t know what\'s wrong with it so I don\'t know what lack of knowledge you talking a bout the car not with me to check things,also if anyone have 30k car sepnt on with new engine and can\'t make it run for 5 mints you will be fusterated big time ...
These what I\'m talking a bout Any mapper need to fallow these to do there job right..
Yes I\'m not an expert but that\'s what I been told by people make these injectors so im sure they will know better than anyone else what they talking about
My set of injectors cost me 650£ not cheap old Bosch from the 70s..
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag145/Aliakeel2007/ED8479DB-8217-4A03-AAD1-401C1418EA0A-3583-00001366B2F6AE67_zpsbc0e1026.jpg)
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag145/Aliakeel2007/6CBA8478-1F26-4EA1-B982-A733AB5872CE-3583-00001366B236391F_zps2984927b.jpg)
And again im not blaming anyone I\'m just :censored::censored::censored::censored:t off no1 can know what wrong with car or willing to help rather than have ago and blame me again as usual ...what\'s the point we have forum and u can\'t say what u want or what happen ...
Quote from: JayDee;865431From our numerous text yesterday, I still see you think the settings are wrong and your "other people do" even though I explained over and over to you, if they know so much surely they can fix it?
Please answer did your car drive the way it is now after mapping, if no then surely logic would say that something else has happened if it is running the same after a new engine. Do you understand those tables and what they do?
My opinion would be to check, crank sensors and wiring, trigger wheel pulley if bent, primary injectors through hand commander raising the percentage front and rear to see if it has the same effect on the idle, check injector connectors are on the correct injector, what are the wideband readings, have you tried raising or lowering the Pim voltage, which is a easy way to add or subtract fuel.
There\'s more things, but I don\'t know why I bothered with the above, oh and this will be my last post here.
Yes mate the car drove but only till I get home 3 hours and start running rough the day after and I\'m with you on phone all day try to see what\'s wrong but we couldn\'t and the car start getting worse day by day and in end the car lost power I don\'t know whats going on but I waste a grand to bring the car to u and after that I was beging u to bring the car again to have look u said u can\'t you busy because other people booked in but I was first ,let\'s just leave it mate seriously I had enough people take sides here and not getting me anywhere ...
Clive do me a fav and delete the thread please mate...it\'s really getting my nerve ..
Reading all of this bud it all points to broken cable/short on the fuelling side of things....If it was ignition then your eyes would be stinging and smoking.....
You prob had a partially broken cable and overtime it got worse...prob caused your first engine problems....
Id say map and engine fine.....broken cable or short in the loom on the fuelling side....as the engines been pulled the loom would have been fatigue even more.
These car are now old and the looms have been subjected to a lot of heat over the years. this will make the insulation and wiring brittle.
You\'ve paid for a map and rebuild...now unfortunately you need to pay someone to fault find.
keep the faith the FD is high maintenance mistress!
Has anyone checked the shielding & earth on the ignition side of things?