Hi finally got an rx7.
Car is showing about 50km I bought with no mot or tax. I did have a quick shot but due to not being roadworthy it was a quick tesdrive. Car was holding back and missing. But as it was so clean and had low miles I bought it.
After I had got it home. I looked over it more closely. I found the map sensor pipe had cracked ends. I then replaced all the vacum pipes. Engine ran great after.
Next issue was water out of overflow which had caps on the wrong way. When the caps where on the right way I am stil getting a small amount of water coming from overflow tank. The last owner has fitted it with a big radiator. But never fitted any fans. After more research I tried a champagne test. There are small fizzing bubbles so I take it seals have gone. Car starts fine cold or hot. No white smoke. I also removed the one way valve on my compression tester. Did a compression test on both chambers. Reading was just touching 6 bar. So looking like a rebuild.
Also wipers are very slow and started motor sticks rev counter and oil pressure guage all need looked at. I did an oil pressure test with a mechanical gauge was getting 2bar idle 4bar when reved then if revs where held would go back to just over 2 bar.
Just after I fixed vacum pipes and thought cooling issue had been resolved I manged to take it a few runs down a private road. Wow really like the feel of the car and I would say it feels quicker than my bpu+++ supra up to tripple figures. As far as I can see all the car has standard down pipe then freeflowing 3" exhaust. Mushroom filters and hks elbows. Runs 0.8bar of boost. I looked at ecu there is no signs of soldering as both boards still have the protective varnish so no aftermarket epprom. Am I missing something or are these cars really that quick.
Welcome to rotary heaven :)
Yes, they are that quick. My Stage 1 300hp MR2 felt a bit pedestrian compared to my standard RX7 RS
First up, welcome to Mazdarotaryclub.
Fortunatly you have been able to drive the car enough to find out what an awsome car you now have that will hopefully give you the insperation to get it up n running properly.
Sadly from what you have described with the water system the car would have been overheating badly due to loss of coolant with the caps the wrong way round because as soon as the car would have got hot it would have pushed water out.
"however" from your description there is the chance that a product called K-Seal may help, at least as a tempory fix till you decide what to do with the car, not to be confused with any kind a rad seal which blocks up the small water ways in a Rotary engine.
You should find a local accessory shop that will sell this.
I hope this helps
What sort of levels should you have in both tanks?
When I say water is coming out overflow this is when warmed up heaters on full but no raradiator fans. I put a pipe from overflow tank to a plastic bottle and it caught 150ml of water. There was no overflow pipe on the car on a standard car does this just go to the inner wing or does it have a catch tank?
I might try radweld but don\'t realy like tempoary fixes. Not really wanting to get it road legal and find its overheating. Temp gauge has never gone over half way yet though.
Was really going to put supra back on road first. Have a t70 and Greddy emange for going single turbo. Could fit it on rx7 though.
Was looking at prices can import genuine o rings for just about £200 full rebuild kit for £1200. But noticed there is a guy on eBay will rebuild for £1400. Is he any good? Was really wanting to rebuild the engine myself. But my the time I take time off doing customers cars only to save a few hundred pound doesn\'t make sense.
Since I have been porting traditional engine for year what like to give it a street port. Is there templates available?
Finally what sort of power does a type r have with my mods on a fresh engine have. Even as it is still having a hard time believing its faster than my supra that\'s well in the 400bhpmark. Supra is only 200kg heavier.
Quote from: jazraymcbeath;852038What sort of levels should you have in both tanks?
When I say water is coming out overflow this is when warmed up heaters on full but no raradiator fans. I put a pipe from overflow tank to a plastic bottle and it caught 150ml of water. There was no overflow pipe on the car on a standard car does this just go to the inner wing or does it have a catch tank?
I might try radweld but don\'t realy like tempoary fixes. Not really wanting to get it road legal and find its overheating. Temp gauge has never gone over half way yet though.
Was really going to put supra back on road first. Have a t70 and Greddy emange for going single turbo. Could fit it on rx7 though.
Was looking at prices can import genuine o rings for just about £200 full rebuild kit for £1200. But noticed there is a guy on eBay will rebuild for £1400. Is he any good? Was really wanting to rebuild the engine myself. But my the time I take time off doing customers cars only to save a few hundred pound doesn\'t make sense.
Since I have been porting traditional engine for year what like to give it a street port. Is there templates available?
Finally what sort of power does a type r have with my mods on a fresh engine have. Even as it is still having a hard time believing its faster than my supra that\'s well in the 400bhpmark. Supra is only 200kg heavier.
someone quoting you £1400 for a rebuild is a good price but what is the work like. if you said you can get a rebuild kit for £1200 then that means £200 labour it wouldn\'t make any sense. your best of checking the company history before hand. but for rebuilds there is hayward rotary powergains steve rivett wgt jimmys who are well known for there work but prices reflect.
QuoteI might try radweld
DO NOT, Its will gunk up your water ways and destroy your engine. Stay away from Radweld!!!!!!!!!
Rotarymotion he worked at Hayward rotary add say. Gives a 2 year warranty. Anyone had any dealings with them.
Quote from: neil_jdmr;852040DO NOT, Its will gunk up your water ways and destroy your engine. Stay away from Radweld!!!!!!!!!
Was only thinking about. As I said not a fan of quick fixes.
Clive stated Kseal Not Radweld to totally different products and often get put in the same basket!
Kseal does not gunk up the coolant system like radweld google it.... used it myself on a cracked cylinder head that was dripping coolant at rate of 1 litre every 5 mins (mate overtightened a spark plug) .....3 tables spoons of kseal 10 mins later no drip! Next day whole 125 miles on track ! old golf mk2 gti that we used for rest of summer thrashing on track days. At £12.95 worth a very serious punt!
....also mate had an Audi A4 1.8 turbo ( 20v1.8) loosing expansion bottles worth of coolant every 2000 miles....been in several garages and no one could find leak....so small prod evaporating on exit....1 teaspoon later no more issues.....i was very cynical about kseal but it worked for me and i have a bottle in my garage now!
btw i dont work for Kseal or have any connection to them in any way!
...fix the 7 up first over the supra you wont regret it....
....and check out the rebuild guys website....info you need is on there!
Jon
Kseal MD
Levels wise mate about an inch below each cap...plus put your heater circuit on hot mate as if shes lost coolant that may have air in as well so need to purge that area of air.
Run it from cold and fill with water ( no point wasting coolant at mo) and bit of bubbling over normal as it gets warm on your fingers 1 final top up and caps on. run til gauge at 8 pm few 3 k revs to get the waterpump spinning. Leave til cold and no pressure in system open caps top up and repeat cycle. Then check again and levels should be maintained from here
Gauge on a rx7 fd is non linear so over half way very hot....
Do some searches on here some great reading and your knowledge will quickly grow...we\'ve all been there .....there great cars....but a tad fragile so issues that you\'d get away with in a piston engine are more of a deal in a rotary...i learnt the hard way and blew mine up...if id left well alone she\'d still be sat on the drive...but no regrets...was mucho fun...and by the way welcome to the club!
Quote from: jazraymcbeath;852045Rotarymotion he worked at Hayward rotary add say. Gives a 2 year warranty. Anyone had any dealings with them.
Rotarymotion are quoting you 1400 quid for a rebuild with 2 year warrenty?! Someone is telling lies!
A standard rebuild, engine removal, engine install + garentee is ~3500 from a reputable specialist.
also solid cap on metal header and sprung cap on plastic header....i made that mistake as well....
Are you in wick Bristol?
Quote from: davehg;852059Are you in wick Bristol?
No wick near john o groats.
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;852055Rotarymotion are quoting you 1400 quid for a rebuild with 2 year warrenty?! Someone is telling lies!
A standard rebuild, engine removal, engine install + garentee is ~3500 from a reputable specialist.
Engine removal and fitting will be done by myself. Can someone look at his add on eBay I did a search for engine rebuild on eBay comes up with him. Sorry can\'t find item number as using my phone. He has the option for an extended 4 year warranty.
Thanks for replys will try kseal and a good bleed first. Clutch is just starting to slipping in higher gears I forgot to mention. So engine or box needs to come out anyway.
There\'s a inspection panel for the clutch bud 2 10mm bolts easy peasy to check it. Good bleed of hydraulics with fresh fluid might buy you some time there as well.
There\'s a guide on here to for engine removal.
Quote from: boosted;852067There\'s a inspection panel for the clutch bud 2 10mm bolts easy peasy to check it. Good bleed of hydraulics with fresh fluid might buy you some time there as well.
There\'s a guide on here to for engine removal.
Great stuff. Wil take a look to see how much meat is on clutch and give a bleed. For all the car is going to be used. If I took engine out I wouldn\'t be able to stop with just putting a clutch in.
Mate I hope you get your car sorted soon. Regarding, RotaryMotion, I have heard a lot of good things about this guy from a few knowledgeable people. If I was you, and I had 1400pounds spare, I would for sure give him a chance.
For any Newbie (I know you have been a member since May 2004) I always recommended builders who offered warranties, for example, Carl Hayward offers the best warranty out there in my opine, however; this rotary-motion guy definitely know the trick to offer such warranty on a ROTARY ENGINE. Hence, in nutshell, do give him a chance. But, please ensure that, you read the terms and condition of the alleged warranty and, if possible, post them here... I am sure most of the people would love to have a read of them.
Best of luck
Mir
They do have an expansion tank in the wing, 6 bar with a normal compression tester ain\'t bad. If it was me I would fit fans, header tank, new caps and bleed the coolant thoroughly, kseal if it was needed.
Don\'t suppose you knew Mark Rae, can\'t remember if he was from Wick or Thurso.
Phil
I have ordered kseal will measure radiator and order some twin fans. Does the level on the inner tank go up and down. As when I went back to my plastic bottle level had changed some water had been drawn back into system. As there is another catch tank for water that isn\'t there hopefully its just needing bleed,caps and inner wing tank.
Then all depends on clutch. Before I look at no horn no wipers or very very slow. No indicators and broken headlight covers.
No never heard of him. There was a red rx7 up here a while ago but disappeared as quick as it appeared. Was a guy in his early 20\'s.
Look at champagne RX7 test on youtube....its pretty ferocious....small fizzing bubbles as you describe just sounds like air exiting system.So seals not gone hopefully.. Look in the parts section for a fan pack.
Get some pics up of her bud!
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2pshl6a.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/4grluq.jpg)
I have removed sunstrip and tinted rear window. Anyone wanting a carbon bonnet. Was going to paint it white. As there is shading and a dull part at the front. Would be happy with a swap for a standard bonnet if you arange courier. Not worried about colour.
So the water cooling system...
Are you leaving the car to cool right down before checking the levels?
No? then your not doing it right,
The coolant bleeds from the ast(the plastic tank with sprung cap on) to the tank behind o/s side wing under pressure as the system heats up,as it cools it gets sucked back up from the tank back into the engine/rad/ast.
If you open the coolant system before its coold down you are releaving the pressure that pulls the water back in!On most cars the header tank is highest point so if you open the system hot gravity will still drain the water back into the coolant system, The \'header\'tank on the fd is low down in the wing so it relies on that pressure to pull the coolant up into the system.
Check the pipe from ast to tank make sure that is in good condition, any pin holes/damage to that will allow air to get sucked back in rather than coolant looking like your loosing the coolant.
Is the tank behind the wing in leakfree condition to?
There are plenty of people breaking cars so rads shouldn\'t be very expensive and work at various speeds much easier to plug in oem than wire in aftermarket!
Do not use K seal either you may as well spunk in the coolant, its not effective and once in very difficult to clear out properly as with the rest of the voodoo engine fix things out there just doesn\'t work.
If any one wants to swap a standard bonnet for my carbon one will be happy to do so. Not bothered on colour. You must arange courier. Bonnet has some shading and has been scuffed at the front. Was going to paint this one white but would prefer a standard one.
Quote from: RobMatthews;852137So the water cooling system...
Are you leaving the car to cool right down before checking the levels?
No? then your not doing it right,
The coolant bleeds from the ast(the plastic tank with sprung cap on) to the tank behind o/s side wing under pressure as the system heats up,as it cools it gets sucked back up from the tank back into the engine/rad/ast.
If you open the coolant system before its coold down you are releaving the pressure that pulls the water back in!On most cars the header tank is highest point so if you open the system hot gravity will still drain the water back into the coolant system, The \'header\'tank on the fd is low down in the wing so it relies on that pressure to pull the coolant up into the system.
Check the pipe from ast to tank make sure thatpipein good condition, any pin holes/damage to that will allow air to get sucked back in rather than coolant looking like your loosing the coolant.
Is the tank behind the wing in leakfree condition to?
There are plenty of people breaking cars so rads shouldn\'t be very expensive and work at various speeds much easier to plug in oem than wire in aftermarket!
Do not use K seal either you may as well spunk in the coolant, its not effective and once in very difficult to clear out properly as with the rest of the voodoo engine fix things out there just doesn\'t work.
Do you à picture of tank. I had no pipe on ast and cant find an overflow tank. Thats why I am using a clear plastic bottle.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b176/gareth180189/RX7%20Sale/DSC_0175.jpg)
AST nearest the battery ( light blue cap ). Coolant fill point, centre of eng bay ( yellow cap ). Expansion / overflow tank, drivers side wing, just to left of Apexi filters. HTH :yes
It\'s strange that the expansion tank has been removed....cant fathom out why the previous owner would remove.:xconfused
Quote from: boosted;852192It\'s strange that the expansion tank has been removed....cant fathom out why thhivious owner would remove.:xconfused
Looks to me that only half of the car wasfitted after kit was fitted and painted. Why is there no horns,fans,overflow tank,ducting for intercooler. Wiring is a mess where there is a turbo timer and alarm. Will cut it all out and start again.
Ahh. cool looks like someone ran out of cash! Engine must be good then as you would nt bodykit a blown motor! here\'s hoping looks good in white!
My mate had a bodyshop and had a car in for work....when finished left message for owner...never picked car up....
Yes hopefully. Will try and get a good look at this weekend. Sick of welding up this customers car.
I have ordered an overflow tank, fans,oil pressure sensor, window wiper motor and starter motor. All the aluminium water pipes had a little corrosion. Cleaned them all up and fitted new jubile clips. I noticed on the bottom of the aftermarket radiator the small pipe was loose. So radiator has been taken of to be tig welded.
The indicators fault was a blown fuse. Horn was a broken wire. I replaced the 1uf capacitor on the rev counter and redone all the soldered joints. Tidyed up the alarm wiring.
Still to bleed clutch and will wait for fans and raditor before I can test for water seals.