So, I replaced stock engine mounts 18 months ago with a pair of polyurethane mounts.
This is what the turbo side mount looks like !! :3Confused
So to avoid a repeat, I\'ve replaced these with Aluminium Mounts.
Chris
My noltec ones did the same, there should be a heat shield on the o/s mount to prevent this happening. Only found this out after it melted down by about 10mm
Whats the vibration like with the solid mounts?
Poly mounts always fall to bits , it never bonds as well as rubber . And they have no interlock to work against ,
Quote from: Brett;847344Whats the vibration like with the solid mounts?
Brett,
Haven\'t driven the FD yet since fitting the mounts. I\'ll let you know next weekend.
Chris
Bl**dy heck - didn\'t realise the poly mounts melted :eek
I was going to buy a set in a couple of weeks as well.
Looks like i\'ll have to bite the bullet & go for the vibra technics ones now then.
Quote from: Panjy;847496Bl**dy heck - didn\'t realise the poly mounts melted :eek
I was going to buy a set in a couple of weeks as well.
Looks like i\'ll have to bite the bullet & go for the vibra technics ones now then.
Can you post up your review of the vibra technics mounts when you have used them for a short while.
Thanks
Chris
:( I\'ve just bought a set or Irperformance Engine mounts....... Kind of hoping this fail was heat related, i read loads of reviews before i bought and nothing sugested they fall to bits :o
Quote from: Grizzly;847533:( I\'ve just bought a set or Irperformance Engine mounts....... Kind of hoping this fail was heat related, i read loads of reviews before i bought and nothing sugested they fall to bits :o
Difficult to say whether it was solely due to heat. Certainly heat will be a big contributing factor on my FD as the heat shield is not fitted and the car is used on track.
Chris
Yeh i remember your video :) with the flames :eek:
O well mine are some where over the Atlantic so i\'ll give them a whirl and just make sure i have the Cover still on the steel arm...
We don\'t seem to get this problem on the FC - probably because our engine mounts are on the centre iron and further away from the turbo\'s hotside. I\'ve also kept my heatshield.
I went for solid Nylon mounts, they don\'t transmit much noise from the engine, but they were no good on the gearbox - I went back to the rubber mounts on there.
I have bolted my engine straight to the Rx4 cross member. No engine mounts to melt:) :D
QuoteCan you post up your review of the vibra technics mounts when you have used them for a short while.
Will do. Won\'t be for a while though as car is a good year away from being on the road :)
Quote from: Prof;847546We don\'t seem to get this problem on the FC - probably because our engine mounts are on the centre iron and further away from the turbo\'s hotside.
Don\'t take this the wrong way but you don\'t see many 500hp FC\'s, the heat you get round the Turbo area is mad when there on Full chat. I would imagen the FC Engine mount is atualy Closer to the Turbo Hot side/Manifold.
Chris, just a little off topic and my be a stupid question but can the engine mounts be changed with out removing the engine ?
Yep not too difficult to do but you need to drop the oil and do one arm at a time to reduce the risk of creating an oil leak.
If you are going with Aftermarket Mounts you will also need two Steel arms :)
good old aluminum or £5 hockey pucks haven\'t let me down yet!
Ditto what Grizzly said, but I had to drop the front sub frame to gain clearance to remove the engine mounts from the \'pockets\' in the sub frame.
To lower the sub frame, I supported the engine with a jack and wooden block to spread the load, and supported the sub frame with a trolley jack so I could control the speed of lowering.
I removed the bolts from the bottom of the suspension damper and the anti roll bar drop link to the lower wishbones on each side.
Remove the bolt holding the oil pipe mounting bracket on the sub frame.
Remove the nut for the engine mounting to the sub frame.
Make sure you remove the steering rack mounting bolts from the front of the sub frame too.
Two nuts and one bolt per side for the sub frame to chassis, but I recommend easing the nuts and bolts off/out as the sub frame is lowered to provide extra control.
It is a bit fiddly but possible on your own (done mine thre or four times now on the drive with two trolley jacks and some wood).
Good luck
Chris
Quote from: colum;860245good old aluminum or £5 hockey pucks haven\'t let me down yet!
Or me ! On hockey pucks myself, not an expensive thing to replace if they do melt !
Shaun
not melted any yet, even in race motors
Cheers Chris, Sounds more to it and I don\'t think I have the bottle! might just have to put up with the squeaking and rattlings :-(
I\'ve had the vibra technics mounts on my FD for a few months and they are great. Initially replaced my broken stock mounts with solid aluminium but for me the vibration was too much at low speed, having said that you can\'t beat the solid mounts for feel once you get moving.
The vibra technics mounts are a great compromise for the road IMO there is no noticeable vibration and they hold the engine well. Made me realise how bad my stock mounts were! Highly recommended.
Well i\'ve just tried 4 Hockey Pucks on the road fd (already has steel arms fitted) so i did it out of Curiosity and i have to say coming from IRP\'s (Track) i\'m not that Impressed. There is allot of Vibration just off Idle and at low speed. I even put hard Rubber spacers between the Nut - Sub frame which helped a bit but not a fan i\'m afraid and they will be coming back off.