Apologies if this has been asked a million times but ill keep searching as well.
If you had a totally stock car, how much would it cost parts and labour (not being done on the cheap but reliable) to achieve these typical numbers?
300bhp ?
350bhp?
400bhp?
450bhp?
(this is just curiosity here)
:Thumbsup!
300hp would just be a decent exhaust, induction kit, bigger intercooler and a remap on stock boost, so roughly 1k-1.5k depending on what brands you go for.
350hp you could probably do for the same as above but with more boost or you could convert to single turbo with bigger injectors etc 2.5k+ depending on your turbo..
400hp+ this is where it gets really expensive depending if your having the block completly rebuilt with new seals, rotors, housings and then there`s the option of various porting etc 5-10k
Don\'t forget to add on the upgrades to:
Cooling - radiator and intercooler
Ignition - HT leads maybe better coils/twin spark and maybe different plugs
Brakes - you are going to need better ones to cope with the extra power
Fueling - fuel pump and bigger injectors
Up to around 400bhp its not too bad, anything over that will start costing a lot more - don\'t forget that the car is getting old now so things like plastic end capped radiators and old hoses may fail which could take out the engine.
Also - which car are talking about?
Rx8
Rx7 FD
Rx7 FC
Rx7 FB
Cosmo
Old skool
etc
Bugger, I knew I would forget one vital bit of info, sorry about that (it was late for me).
The RX7 FD :)
I just wanted to gauge very loose approximate figures so I can either nip it in the bud or potentially think about upgrades if I like the RX7 after viewing it. :)
And without a doubt the chassis\\brakes would be being upgraded to cope with more poke as well.
Ideally for 350hp on stock turbos with more boost you want bigger injectors too. Depends how safe you want to be I guess.
Chose 2 of the 3 options:
Cheap
Fast
Reliable
With downpipe, decat, catback, bigger ic and a power fc my fd made 320 and was limited by injectors. Hit high 90s on injector duty at times. In line with the original question buying used parts and fitting myself and mapping at wgt I went from stock to 320 for around 1k.
If the duty cycle is above about 92% then its maxxed, push it more and the injectors won\'t fire correctly and only inject 1/2 the amount of fuel (the internals can\'t keep up) maximum safe injector duty cycle is 85%
Quote from: m1tch;838287Chose 2 of the 3 options:
Cheap
Fast
Reliable
I did...
Reliable.
:Thumbsup!
Thus was curious of costs involved in such a thing. I understand that cooling is extremely important as well from what I\'ve been reading (of course amongst a plethora of other things).
I\'m heading down this road....
I have the following:
1. Feed Downpipe (140 pounds)
2. HKS high flow cat (I don\'t believe in de-cat\'s on a street car). (130 pounds)
3. Greddy/Trust SMIC with hard pipes / elbow (300 pounds)
4. Koyo Rad with silicone hoses (350 pounds)
5. ARC airbox (was already on car, but could get for 100 pounds 2nd hand)
6. Power FC (was already on car but get for 550 pounds 2nd hand)
7. Magnecore leads (50 pounds)
8. Will replace fuel filter (have it already) (30 pounds)
I\'m guessing I\'ll may also need these:
9. Bigger Injectors (100 pounds?)
10. Possibly aftermarket fuel rail and regulator? (120 pounds)
11. Uprated fuel pump (Supra fuel pump?) / Walbro or Bosch 044? (150 pounds)
12. Colder plugs? (40 pounds)
13. HKS ignition amp? (250 pounds)
14. Need to source backbox (hoping to find a racing beat dual tip for sale soon). (200 pounds 2nd hand)
15. Remap (thinking of learning myself 250 pounds for Power FC FC data loggit software) or get a pro (300 pounds)
So that\'s already like: 2810 pounds without labour. If your car is completely standard with a good motor.
But it should be pretty reliable.