Hey all.
All being well i should be buying a TII on the basis it runs and we get it through the Mot.
The car is a 1990\' Turbo II Hatch, My mate has bought it off a good friend and has been told it\'s had a rebuild but no paperwork as yet to prove (Rotor housing look clean tho tbh)
When the car landed at my mates gaff apparently it was running just not very well but its been off the road since 2008 and stored, only has 59k on too. Since then it\'s failed to start...I think mainly because they flooded the crap out of it as it stank of fuel and wasnt trying fire up.
Now he\'s come round to selling it me... im getting stuck in and trying to eliminate what i can bla bla bla. Before i have looked at it they had checked the spark and was very good. This was 2weeks previous.
1st things 1st... jump in turn it over with accelerator depressed, turns over fine but dosnt try to start. Also notice the ignition lights are staying on (all lights) in middle of dash inc. door open light etc. They don\'t seem to go out when key is turned to position 3 just dim. He and my mate say it\'s the 1st time this has happened!?
Done a compression test, the best you can with a standard compression tester and and came up good.
Took plugs out and Egi fuse, cranked over to get excess fuel out, checked sparkys to see if we still had spark and no spark? Downloaded a "how to" for the earths. Checked/cleaned up everyone we could find.... On the firewall, by clutch slave cyl, under trailing coil and even the ecu ground under the inlet. Problem still the same.
Thought it may be the after market alarm, traced what the interrupter cables were spliced into and appears it would only stop the Starter motor not the ignition side of things?
Checked all fuses down in drivers foot well and all seem a-ok, checked any inline fuses that go to after market alarm and also good. Checked under bonnet fuses all ok.
So now the only thing we can think of to check tomorrow is to see if the coils and igniters are getting power as we have already checked the resistance in the coils and there all ok too.
We have now took the injectors out to soak in carb cleaner for a couple of days as i imagine there pretty gummed up after sitting for so long. 2 of them seemed a little loose as we took them out to so maybe this is what was causing the problem in the 1st place? Need to grab some new O-rings for them and an inlet gasket before we can put it back together etc. anyway.
Are the injectors colour coded in anyway as all 4 are like a slight pinky purple color?
To sum up... Its got new spark plugs, resistance in coils checked, earths checked, after market alarm appears to have no affect on ignition.
My mate has had the batt on and off a few times and don\'t know if this would have anything to do with it? As said fuses seem ok tho. All other electrics seem ok apart from the IGN lights and no spark.
Did find this today tho and is not connected to anything was by the side of the shorter fuel rail...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/214si/photobucket-3058-1346635830495.jpg)
Any help greatly appriciated and sorry for the long ass first post lol
Jay :WaveBye
Hi there and welcome to the forum...
Coupe of things come out of that post straight away:
1) That connector - it can be ignored - it looks like one of the connectors off the AirControl Valve - which has probably been removed.
2) Compression test - you can\'t really use a standard comrpession tester with a rotary - the best you can do with one of these is to remove one of the plugs per rotor, and with the compression tester in the plug hole, and hold the pin in on the tester tool. You must remove the fuse marked \'EGI\' from the engine bay fuse box - to stop fuel being injected during testing, and then with foot on throttle, turn the engine over - you are looking to see the gauge peak three times evenly. It will give you an idea of compression on each rotor face (3 faces), but not exact readings. You will need to take it to rotary specialist for a proper compression check
3) Deflooding - can\'t really do this the same way. This deflood procedure works most of the time:
a) remove all 4 plugs and clean them
b) remove EGI fuse from engine bay
c) Crank engine over for 30 seconds with foot depressed to the floor
d) wait a minute and then repeat c) above
e) when the clouds of whitish vapour stop coming out of the engine bay, it should be ready..
f) if you can, with a syringe or something similar, squirt a tiny bit of 2 stroke into the top plug hole and rotate the engine by hand - try and get a bit of oil into each chamger and do both rotors - this step isn\'t strictly necessary, but will help in getting compression back
g) Refit the cleaned plugs and EGI fuse
h) Crank the engine, with foot to the floor to bring in the fuel cut off system, until the engine fires - it may take a bit to get it started.
It\'s a good idea to make sure the battery is charged or you have jump leads attached to get good cranking speed.
If it\'s been sat flooded for any time, consider doing an oil change too.
Hope that gets you running...
+1 on the decent battery charge, I did have a car where the battery was fine to crank the engine over but not quite enough for it to fire, I just changed the battery for a new one and it fired up first time.
When were the HT leads replaced? They are a perishable service item, I changed mine over to some uprated HT leads (at mazda rotary parts) and the engine felt much stronger - also are the HT leads on the right plug?
The injectors are colour coded, the pinky purple colour mean that they are OEM 550cc injectors.
As I say did the best we could on the compression front. But have another known good engine and test results are pretty damn similar.
Battery is a good sized battery and us fully charged as was took off to charge and have no problem turning over.
Leads were replaced with magnecor leads and less than a yr old.
Should leading and trailing injectors both be 550 cc? Mate has some brown injectors what would they be lol
Cheers for the reply so far fellas
Jay
Quote from: Jay200plus;834863Should leading and trailing injectors both be 550 cc?
Yes... Well they are on mine anyway :D
Haha thats good to know then. Rules out wrong injector\'s :)
Trying to locate some new rubber O rings for them atm.
Cheers,
Jay
Quote from: Jay200plus;834871Haha thats good to know then. Rules out wrong injector\'s :)
Trying to locate some new rubber O rings for them atm.
Cheers,
Jay
I think as far as I know they are the same as the MX5 injectors ie standard Densos, I bought a full set of them from Atkin rotary, actually how many do you need? Did you remove both the primary and secondary injectors? I might have a spare new set for 2 of them.
Took out all 4 unfortunately, can you remember how much they were and where from lol
Dealers maybe?
Cheers,
Jay
Quote from: Jay200plus;834885Took out all 4 unfortunately, can you remember how much they were and where from lol
Dealers maybe?
Cheers,
Jay
I got these:
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/86-92-Rx7-Fuel-Injector-Grommet-Kit-ARE72.html
But I have 2 injectors worth spare I think, I will dig them out tomorrow, like I said as far as I know they are the same as MX5 seals so im sure you can get them here:
http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=injector&x=0&y=0
If I have 2 injectors worth of seals still in the garage I will send them to you for the postage cost, you will just need another 2 sets worth of injector seals.
I dont know if the body is the same but the 1.8 mx5 run approx 265cc :/
If they fit... they fit lol Would there be anything else i could order at the same time while injectors are out etc.?
thanx again,
Jay
Quote from: Jay200plus;834892I dont know if the body is the same but the 1.8 mx5 run approx 265cc :/
If they fit... they fit lol Would there be anything else i could order at the same time while injectors are out etc.?
thanx again,
Jay
The injectors are the same size - the 550cc injectors are actually a direct fit into the 1.8 MX5 for the turbo/supercharged cars, I would get the car running properly before thinking about upgrading lol
ohhh i see, fair enough. i meant was there anything else on that mx5 shop i could renew while my ingectors are out :)
Jay