Right guys im in a bit of a pickle.
I cant get the damn shaft bolt at the pulley end to budge.
The flywheel nut came off with an air gun with a little coaxing, but the other end is a whole different story.
Now i have the engine on a pallet, which obviously doesnt make things easy but i know plenty folk have shifted that bolt when its even been on a desktop!
I have chained the fly to the gearbox bolt and im using the biggest bar i can find.
What is up with it?
Its seriously not a reverse thread bolt is it?
Am i going to have to bite the bullet and get an engine stand?
Here is what stage im at:
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7739688902_b2af4c0825.jpg)
It\'s not a reverse thread just torqued up to a high load. Take sump off the engine to allow it to sit better in the floor and brace it so it can\'t roll. You will need a long bar on the bolt and shock the nut ie stamp your foot hard on the bar to start it turning. This can be a 2 man job
As Dave say\'s, take the sump off so it will sit flatter. Try to sit it on a sheet of ply or something to protect the sump mounting surface.
An engine stand will flex too much in my experience.
Heat the bolt head with a blow torch, it is sometimes fitted with lock tight and this will help loosen it.
If you have a large mate, get him to hold the block while you put pressure on the bar.
It will take a lot of pressure but you should get it with the bar you have.
The bolt is torqued up to something like 190 ft lbs so you will need a lot more than this to crack it!
If you are doing this on your own, try bolting the block to the floor with a metal bracket. It is sometimes easier to crack this bolt before the engine is removed from the car.
Keep at it, you\'ll get there in the end. And the satisfaction of rebuilding your own engine is worth all the hassles.
Good luck
(http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u375/adibarnett/392187_10151008851075662_1896301611_n.jpg)
this is what i make to hold mine to the floor worked really well