Hi I\'m up the yard trying to decipher my running issues , I\'ve got a question I need an answer to ASAP , do the oil injectors ( for the omp ) sit on top of each rotor housing under the inlet manifold ? If so , if they are bolted on and not got any pipes to them (either feed or vacuum ) can that suck in excess / unmetered air ????
If anyone is willing to txt or call me ( don\'t mind ringing back ) I\'m on 07944325136
Cheers in advance ;-)
Btw it\'s the cappuccino / Rex hybrid
Can this q- just popped one out , they have been sealed up via weld - back to the drawing board!!
What is the issue you are having? If you describe it too is we may be able to help point you in the right direction. Possibly something you have over looked.
Right it fires up but it pops n splutters , and backfires a goodun - normally that\'s a sign of weak mix / air leak or ignition timing - same theory apply to rotarys ?
I\'ve got top half of inlet manifold off ATM and just checking my coils for correct readings etc.
In the etc section of the FCC commander I have put it to the funny plus sign on sequential operation which means it is running single rugby right? On the other options should I turn any on ?
Last but not least if I find no air leaks shall i richen it up on the commander a notch of two?
If your worried stick some premix in the petrol just in case. There is a threaded hole at the top of the housing and you need to tie a vacuum source in the top of the injector and the oil feeds in via a little solid plastic pipe.
Do you have a copy of the workshop manual, there is a section on how to check the omp and injectors too.
Shaun
Engine runs premix as the omp doesn\'t operate / not plumbed in.
Got manuals too , that\'s where I\'m getting my coil testing data from. So far found on leading pack on l2 very corroded output post so just cleaned it up.
It might cough and splutter a bit if the engine hasn\'t got up to temperature on the previous running - they run rich on startup and they can flood if they aren\'t brought up to temperature properly, you might find its backfiring due to extra fuel in the rotor chambers which is just clearing out?
As Mitch said let it get to temperature first.
I take it your using an fd engine? If so my fd coughed and spluttered under load, around 4,000rpm, basically it felt like the engine had stopped, had the mapping looked at and they took some fuel out of it as it was running rich in that area. This was after a fresh rebuild though and the engine had bed in further giving higher compression
The crossover point for the primary and secondary injectors are around the 3-4k mark, as Grant said it might be to do with mapping.
p.s. my FC pops and grumbles a bit when its coming up to temperature, you only really know its up to temperature when it doesn\'t do it anymore lol
It won\'t run well enough to do that! It\'s barely starting at all if it does run I can\'t catch it on the throttle :-/
After a couple of attempts to start I re check the plugs and the trailing plugs always seem wet n coked up but leading dry - this to be expected as its not running ok ?
Thanks all for yr input peeps it is mucho appreciated :-)
Its probably due to it being flooded, then you try and start the car again which then injects more fuel into the engine making the flooding worse. Try a deflood procedure:
EGI fuse out
Throttle wide open
Crank over a few times - 3 x 5 second bursts
EGI fuse back in
Throttle closed (ie as if you were starting like normal)
Turn it over to see if it fires
If this doesn\'t work check the plugs, if they are still wet dry them and try removing the EGI fuse and cranking with the plugs out, then put the dry plugs back in and see if that makes a difference.
Defo flooded of its not starting at all. Also are you on an apexi ecu? Did it come with the engine? If not the map on it could be for a different setup so you. Luke maybe do with resetting it to the base map.
Only ever try crank it for 5 secs a time for a couple of goes then I whip plugs out , dry them off and do the fuse out trick to de flood the chambers. Also initialised the ecu do it ran on the base map when I got the ecu running :-)
In the etc menu on the commander ,which settings do the single turbo peeps use here?
How do you reset the apexi to factory base map?
Think in the etc setting on the commander you can choose initialise function and that goes to the base map.
Ah right i might give that a go when i get back. Im not running a remap or anything so i wont loose out. Not that it would would anyways as im not really supposed to have the apexi on an automatic :(
The Oil injectors are only fed with atmospheric that is filtered in the rats nest somewhere. If your premixing and have ditched the OMP then thats not it.
It sounds flooded... possibly because your plugs or stop start or whatever.
Have you checked that the map sensor is plumbed in properly?
Try tow starting it... thats how I\'ve started a few stubborn engines
Might sound daft but check you map sensor feed first.
Then you can check for a spark at each plug but keep your plugs in and use a spare or disable the injectors ;)
Hth
Matt
Quote from: bobster;827770The Oil injectors are only fed with atmospheric that is filtered in the rats nest somewhere. If your premixing and have ditched the OMP then thats not it.
Balls, your right. I plumbed the pipe into the front of the air filter as shown in the manual.
Shaun
What feed voltage are you supposed to have at the map sensor plug? Which of the three wires do u check from? Trying to look at fsm but I\'m not finding what I want on it. Think it\'s pressure sensor but I\'m not finding which wires to check feed from. I did a feed check to my map sensor and I get 4v from two of the wires and 5v from another combination ...
Unless I have some std comparative data to test against my readings may as well be in Chinese lol
Must get round to printing the fan and other manuals because reading it off my lappy is a royal p.i.a !