Here\'s a good one for you all :)
When the engine is not fully warm, I can stick my foot hard on the throttle and get the car to rev up to whatever speed I want (only done this once for a test)
Once it is hot however, if I push my foot hard down on the throttle the car doesn\'t rev, but splutters a lot... It feels to me like severe fuel starvation, but if I push on it just a little bit and very slowly I can increase the revs all the way up to the redline without even a hint of a problem.
This problem even happens when the car is not in motion/not in gear... so the issue isn\'t the load on the engine. And if I drive with a very light foot it drives perfectly.
Things I have done to try and fix this: Put on cleaned and tested injectors and fitted new fuel hoses.
Things I am going to try: Changing fuel filter, checking voltage to fuel pump (once I work out what wires do what and what to test), checking condition of fuel pump.
Anyone got any suggestions what might be causing it and how I can fix it? (I can make a video of what it\'s doing next weekend when I have the chance to get it out of the garage if that will help)
I\'d be tempted to pull the error codes off the ECU - it could be one of the 2 OMP errors - this puts the car in limp mode, but I am sure that would effect the warmup too.
The other thing I thought of - lose alternator belt, is much the same - it would give you these symptoms any time you revved it.
It has to be something that\'s only apparent after the warmup phase, I\'d be tempted to look at the connector for the temperature sensor on the back of the water pump outlet - check that is on ok, also check the AFM connector - a lot of air leak / air metering issues don\'t give a problem until the engine is warm.
Wow! Thanks very much for the fast response!
Hmm.. I could well be loose alternator belt... the ones I have are fairly f*cked, lol...
I got some new belts through this week from MRP and was planning to fit them at the weekend, but it didn\'t occur to me that it might be a related problem. I suppose the belts would slack off even more as they get warm...
I\'ll check those connectors at the same time too.
How would I go about pulling the error codes from the ECU? (I can see what the error codes are in the FAQ thread, but don\'t see how to check them)
Damm, I was hoping you wouldn\'t as that !
From memory, you need an LED that works on 12v or a small bulb, and a jumper wire. Down in the front of the engine bay, near the leading coil pack there should be a 6 way connector - not all the positions are filed, and a single green 1 way connector.
You want to ground out the single connector (test mode).
Then connect one lead of the LED / bulb to battery +ve, and the other wire goes to the contact in the bottom left corner of the 6 way. If I remembered it correctly, when you switch the ignition key round 2 positions, the light will flash out the error codes - smallest number first, with a medium gap between each number, and with a smaller gap between 10s(if there are any) and units. 10\'s are a longer flash, units shorter, then there is a long gap before it all repeats again.
You may not see any lights if there are no errors, so it helps to check out the system is working by forcing an error code. If you unplug the boost solenoid on the oil filler neck, you will create a \'13\' error, which is a good one to look for.
Here\'s a pic of the connectors:
(http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n197/dcr1tch/DSC00302.jpg)
Thanks for that prof :)
I\'d found lots of things that said about a check engine light (which I don\'t have) so I was wondering. But that\'s brilliant, I\'ll dig around in my box of electrical bits and pull out some 12v LEDs, otherwise I\'m fairly sure I can get a small bulb from work.
Hopefully I\'ll be able to sort my problem now this weekend.
Thanks again :D
No worries - one of the mods should have made this a stickie long long ago - I\'m sure there used to be about 3 or 4 threads on ECU codes, but everythings in archived items now :(
This sticky?
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30007#Q6
Quote from: m1tch;815203This sticky?
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30007#Q6
Except it doesn\'t tell you how to get the codes
Guide is on here in the 2nd gen section:
http://www.1300cc.com/
An update on this issue:
Changing the belts has made the issue less noticable, but there\'s still something not quite right... I\'ll start looking at fuel pump related issues next week when the filters and gaskets arrive from MRP...
I\'ll be doing the fault code testing this weekend as well once I\'ve soldered up a little "tester".. Probably hit it tomorrow... Might also try and re-do the timing while I\'m there as well (although I only did it a couple of months ago, won\'t do any harm to check)