no idea what this is but this is text ive copied from a post on facebook by somebody.....
The pump is driven by a belt and sits on the offside of the engine and will have a pipe that runs through a vacuum operated valve and then another pipe into the exhaust it pumps air in on idle and overun too stop flames and help emissions testing
.......... apparently removing this dosent do any damage? and causes more flamage?, anybody heard of it?
removing it makes it harder to get through an MOT without proper tuning of the warm idle, and if you\'ve still got the stock exhaust with it\'s CAT, you need this still.
mot isnt a problem, my exhaust is a cat back... so guessin this is no good then
If you search \'air pump\' on this 2nd gen section we covered it a month or 2 ago because I looked into it and have bought the nessisary items to remove it.
ah... nice 1 thanks.... had a read... REALY cant get my head round these engines at all !!
This is my second FC and I\'ve still got much to learn!
Quote from: rising son;813335ah... nice 1 thanks.... had a read... REALY cant get my head round these engines at all !!
The air pump basically does 2 things, first thing it does is pump air directly into exhaust to reduce emissions - my car only had the air pump with no cat and it got 0.18% CO on the emissions out of the 3.5% allowed. The other pumps air into the cat to stop them imploding under the massive heat of the rotary lol
right so with the cat on the down pipe still in place i realy shouldent disconnect this?, just a thought but seen how its apparently belt driven can you not just take the belt off?
The only real reason people disconnect it would be for the extra space you would have on the turbo side of the car, I need to remove mine to be able to fit the larger turbo, although im fitting an electric air pump instead meaning I won\'t have issues with the emissions, but gain space back in the engine bay.
The issue with taking the belt off is the fact that the air pump belt goes around the crank and the water pump as well, the water pump is run by 2 belts, when removing the air pump you need to fit a dual pulley for the alternator so that the water pump has enough belt tension on (ie 2 belts vs 1) so that it doesn\'t slip and the engine doesn\'t over heat.
If you don\'t need the space you might as well keep it until the point where you need the space and buy a dual pulley for the alternator and blanking plates for the intake (where the emissions stuff used to be)
in all honesty the only reason a was considering doing it is for extra flamage :)
Change the fuel pump for a beefier one and don\'t change the stock FPR lol overfueling FTW!
lol... its already running rich... get the odd big flame, change of pumps not a bad idea all the same
I\'m thinking about doing this but i\'ve been warned off a walbro pump.
Quote from: B.Martin;813474I\'m thinking about doing this but i\'ve been warned off a walbro pump.
why I wonder ?
Genuine walbro pump is better than the stock pump in all respects, and will easily allow 400bhp on a rotary with supporting mods - even on a serial fuel setup.
I can only assume you\'ve heard internet chatter about how you can\'t trust if you have a genuine part, and also about the reduced flow rate of these pumps at higher pressures. Both of these are true, but even with 2 bar of boost these pumps will supply enough juice for a standard FC engine.
Check out this link if you want the low down on pumps - this is from somebody who actually put the work in and did the tests...
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm
This is an excellent write up on pumps and really explains what to look for, what to check and how to size your pump requirements....
I have been using a Walbro pump on my fd for about 10,000 miles with no problems . . . .yet!!!
The air pump puts air to the cats to help stop getting blocked up as we do inject oil into the engine to burn.
You say you have a cat back exhaust so you still have the cat in place - leave the air pump in then. If you wanna see flames then you will want to be ditching to the cat.
I\'ll be honest Mr Hayward said to me that he had pulled many failed walbro pumps from FD\'s, but i guess thats the only 1 bad thing i\'ve heard about walbro pumps. I was originally going to get one until i heard that, an FD pump was reccomended to me but i\'ve not heard about many people putting an FD pump on an FC. Interesting debate.
Yeah the fd pump is an upgrade but not sure how much of an upgrage it is. I kept my old fd pump to put in FC one day (rather than chuck it! It may only provide a few extra liters but it all helps!!)
I had heard of Walbro stories blowing up engines but when I started asking around no one had any real examples only \'I have heard\' or a \'friend of a friend\' stories. However if Carl says he has seen a few failed ones then I wouldn\'t argue! Maybe he can share some real world advice?? (Please! ;))
can always go for a 300zx pump - they are big flow pumps too. The one thing to consider is how much work it might be fitting a pump to the standard tank pump assembly.
Well yeah this is it, i mean my FC is a slow work in progress and i\'m not pushing massive figures so perhaps a walbro 225 will be acceptable.
Well to compare, the FD is 330bhp at 0.8bar running 4x850cc injectors for 10,000miles.
Not to say it wont be a problem but if there are alternatives that you can use, like Prof suggested, then maybe cut out the worry and go for that when you do decide to upgrade :)
Yeah could do with the rewiring of the stock pump before i get ahead of myself :D
Quote from: B.Martin;813508Yeah could do with the rewiring of the stock pump before i get ahead of myself :D
Thats also something I need to learn about! (need to get it finished and running first! :spank )
I\'ve put over 50,000 miles on my walbro pump - and no issues what so ever. I don\'t use 2 stroke in the fuel - and I wonder if that might have some bearing on the failures seen in FD\'s ? I\'ve also kept the fuel pump resisitor relay circuit, which drops the voltage to the fuel pump when on idle and light load (although this never works as well on Walbro\'s because they only use half the current of the stock pump and hence see a lower reduction in voltage) - this means the pump doesn\'t run flat out for it\'s entire life.
Also, I did the fuel pump rewire - as on the 1300cc.com site - I\'d recommend everyone do that who owns an FC - the stock wiring to the pump was never that good in the first instance, and it\'s old and tired and the connectors tarnished now, so you can bet you\'ve got at least 1V drop in voltage from battery/alternator voltage. For those measuring this - jumper the yellow connector in the engine bay - near drivers side shock tower, and turn ignition to on (not cranking) You\'ll hear the pump wizzing away. Measure the battery voltage and then go to the back of the car and find the pump wires - measure these by prodding in the back of the connector for the fuel pump wires (I believe it\'s the thicker 2 wires from memory). The voltage difference is the drop caused by the resistance in the cable. The less the better :)
*ahem* Tomei 280lph pump :D
Quote from: Prof;813531Also, I did the fuel pump rewire - as on the 1300cc.com site - I\'d recommend everyone do that who owns an FC - the stock wiring to the pump was never that good in the first instance, and it\'s old and tired and the connectors tarnished now, so you can bet you\'ve got at least 1V drop in voltage from battery/alternator voltage. For those measuring this - jumper the yellow connector in the engine bay - near drivers side shock tower, and turn ignition to on (not cranking) You\'ll hear the pump wizzing away. Measure the battery voltage and then go to the back of the car and find the pump wires - measure these by prodding in the back of the connector for the fuel pump wires (I believe it\'s the thicker 2 wires from memory). The voltage difference is the drop caused by the resistance in the cable. The less the better :)
Definately something I will have to test (and fix) If I ever get to that stage!!! lol