Right just got back seeing the car. Few niggly little bits. The boot had a fair bit of water in it. Not really a prob. Checked underneath and there wasnt any sign of rust. But the 2 main things im worried about.
1. The car took a good few seconds to start. I dont think it had been started for a week or so. Soon as he pumped the accelerator within one second it started. My mate said there was no black/white/blue smoke though.
2. The car seemed to idle quite low. Around 5-600. Seemed to be abit better if he dipped the clutch. We went for about a 5-8min drive and was idling about the same throught out. It didnt cut out but it was pretty low. Well seemed low to me.
There were a few boost hoses, In the engine bay and it did hav a manual adjustable boost controller if that makes any difference.
When i asked him if he thought it idled abit low he says if its under say 1/4 tank the pump struggles abit as its not quite low enough in the tank. He says its got a walbro.
The car drove fine. Boosted good. Nice and smooth no dodgy noises from the engine and was pretty quick.
Really not sure what to do. What you recon? Has anyone got a rotary compression tester or could come to north london when i go to get it to give it a once over and see what they think. Id pay off course.
Miles
Hi there, the rear getting water into it is probably some blocked drain holes or a perished seal on the rear hatch.
The car can take a few seconds to start, depends on how good the battery is, might be worth replacing as it might be quite old.
This might just be a simple adjustment of the TPS or a small vac leak - the rubber hoses etc can perish and cause all sorts of idle issues as the solinoids are mainly vac operated.
You need to ask what is is being boosted to, 0.6 bar is standard boost, 0.9bar is max boost on stock injectors, running the engine lean on fuel will cause detonation and will basically damage the engine and will need a rebuild, ask the guy what chipped ECU/ECU its running, if its still stock, walk away if its been boosted.
Walbro pump is good, I had a Walbro pump in mine, if its not got a resistor mod or an aftermarket FPR it will run very rich though.
How long did the guy idle the car for? Hopefully the car wasn\'t revved from cold
You need to go to a specialist for the compression tester, ie mazda or a rotary tuner, you CANNOT use a piston engine compression tester, they don\'t work as there is 3 readings from the 3 faces of the rotor, so you should get 6 readings and they will state the RPM, 8-9 = new engine, 7-8 = very good engine, 6-7 engine is still ok for a while, below 6 = getting close to rebuild time. Key is to have even compression over the faces, so if it was say a 7,7,4 on the rear rotor there would be an issue.
Hope that helps
Hi mate. Yeah thought as much. Thats not really to much of a prob.
Battery did look abit old. Was a crappy halfords one.
Its boosting to 12psi. Its got a knight sports ecu or chip. walbro pump, Bov of kind. Will chuck that in the bin anyway. Exhaust, filter. He did say the fuel filter needs changing.
He said it had a rebuild last year. But only changed the apex seals. Replaced with pineapple racing ones by some guy called Kevin Schmidt of Rotarded industries based in chicago
Its done 57000miles. rebuild was done at 45
Quote from: m1tch;802897Hi there, the rear getting water into it is probably some blocked drain holes or a perished seal on the rear hatch.
The car can take a few seconds to start, depends on how good the battery is, might be worth replacing as it might be quite old.
This might just be a simple adjustment of the TPS or a small vac leak - the rubber hoses etc can perish and cause all sorts of idle issues as the solinoids are mainly vac operated.
You need to ask what is is being boosted to, 0.6 bar is standard boost, 0.9bar is max boost on stock injectors, running the engine lean on fuel will cause detonation and will basically damage the engine and will need a rebuild, ask the guy what chipped ECU/ECU its running, if its still stock, walk away if its been boosted.
Walbro pump is good, I had a Walbro pump in mine, if its not got a resistor mod or an aftermarket FPR it will run very rich though.
How long did the guy idle the car for? Hopefully the car wasn\'t revved from cold
You need to go to a specialist for the compression tester, ie mazda or a rotary tuner, you CANNOT use a piston engine compression tester, they don\'t work as there is 3 readings from the 3 faces of the rotor, so you should get 6 readings and they will state the RPM, 8-9 = new engine, 7-8 = very good engine, 6-7 engine is still ok for a while, below 6 = getting close to rebuild time. Key is to have even compression over the faces, so if it was say a 7,7,4 on the rear rotor there would be an issue.
Hope that helps
I have a Knightsports chip in mine, seems spot on boost wise and the mods that have been done are correct so it looks like they know what they were doing, the car should be at around 280ish up from the heavily restricted 200bhp mark.
Do you have full paperwork for the rebuild? Check to see what seals were used etc, if the builder was going via pineapple racing it might have some HD waterseals which are apparently very good. Did he say why it needed a rebuild after only 45,000 miles? My FC is on 89k miles with compressions of 7 still.
Check for rust on the front and rear sills and on the rear of the arches as thats where they usually go, also look at the front just infront of the radiator there is a pipe, its the power steering cooler pipe, usually rusts and gets a pinhole leak, not a massive issue, just check to see what condition its in.
Also check the oil level - the engine is ment to use oil as it uses a total loss oil system, best to top up with 10w40 mineral. Also check the radiator, the stock temp gauge isn\'t the best, basically if it rises above half its already overheated, the 2 things that kill rotaries are overheating and running lean on fuel.
I would definatly recomend changing the fuel filter.
I would also get some photos up of the car and the engine bay, are you sure its a turbo II and not just a turbo? Is it UK spec or US spec?
Yeah he said it was running around 280ish. Seemed to pull well. no flat spots or anything.
Nope no paper work. He said
QuoteIt has pineapple racing apex seals, changed by Kevin Schmidt of Rotarded industries based in chicago. he is a very good friend of mine, he done the engine when he was visiting over a year and half ago.
Quoteits done 57k to date. rebuild was at around 45k it didnt need anything, the rotor housing were all in spec nothing was warped or in need of skiming, but i still got the center piece machined both sides and put new apex seal from pineapple racing, the waterseals were good. i only done it because like i said my mate done it for me for free because i had plans of putting bigger turbo and stuff just wanted to be on the safe side
I checked all the sills, turrets, chassis legs, boot, engine bay etc. Looked all good really.
I will change the fuel filter straight away. He says he changes the oil every 3-4 months with mineral 10w40. oil and water levels were good.
Im sure its a turboII. Heres some pics.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f70/milez06/vert.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f70/milez06/photo1.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f70/milez06/vert12342.jpg)
Thanks for the help Mitch:Thumbsup!
Quote from: m1tch;802902I have a Knightsports chip in mine, seems spot on boost wise and the mods that have been done are correct so it looks like they know what they were doing, the car should be at around 280ish up from the heavily restricted 200bhp mark.
Do you have full paperwork for the rebuild? Check to see what seals were used etc, if the builder was going via pineapple racing it might have some HD waterseals which are apparently very good. Did he say why it needed a rebuild after only 45,000 miles? My FC is on 89k miles with compressions of 7 still.
Check for rust on the front and rear sills and on the rear of the arches as thats where they usually go, also look at the front just infront of the radiator there is a pipe, its the power steering cooler pipe, usually rusts and gets a pinhole leak, not a massive issue, just check to see what condition its in.
Also check the oil level - the engine is ment to use oil as it uses a total loss oil system, best to top up with 10w40 mineral. Also check the radiator, the stock temp gauge isn\'t the best, basically if it rises above half its already overheated, the 2 things that kill rotaries are overheating and running lean on fuel.
I would definatly recomend changing the fuel filter.
I would also get some photos up of the car and the engine bay, are you sure its a turbo II and not just a turbo? Is it UK spec or US spec?
Yeah that looks like a t2 to me mate, looks quite clean to be honest. Have you checked underneath the car, the passenger footwell for example is prone to rust. It\'s worth pulling to dipstick out and checking the oil colour, if it\'s dark and not clean you can try and knock a few quid off. Other than that our friendly neighbourhood Mitch has covered most of questions :)
Yeah I checked everywhere. I\'m used to rusty nissans so no where to check lol.
So the engine starting prob and low idle doesn\'t really matter to much? It did drive fine apart from that. I didn\'t do a hot start as I forgot.
The hot start is the one you need to do mate. When you go to have another look make sure you do one or 2 of them at least.
Ade
Ok mate thanks. Should it need any throttle tO start?
No it should start anyway. Sometimes a little blip helps. If you have to hold the throttle to the floor to start it then its most likely because its started to flood. Holding the throttle to the floor cuts the fuel going in. There can be other reasons for it too though so it isn\'t always terrible news. A badly adjusted tps could cause also cause this kind of thing.
Oh the idle can be anywhere between 600-800rpm.
Ade
If the hot start solinoid has been removed (as it has in mine) then it might need a small blip of throttle to start but shouldn\'t need the throttle to be mashed to get it to start :rollin
Looks a very tidy example :) the wheels change depending on the photo though :rollin
Oh, and I know its a very small check but check to see if the intermittant wiper switch works - mines failed much like many many other FCs lol not a massive issue, just annoying!
Quote from: m1tch;802946the wheels change depending on the photo though :rollin
Hope it\'s got those 5-spokes on and not the 6-spokes - I don\'t like the look of that camber angle on the rear 6-spokes
Quote from: no_boingers;802991Hope it\'s got those 5-spokes on and not the 6-spokes - I don\'t like the look of that camber angle on the rear 6-spokes
Those Rota Grid drifts look amazing though, rears are slightly tucked though lol but its the only way to run them at keep it legal :rollin
True! :mmmm
Yeah rota ftw.
Quote from: m1tch;802897ask the guy what chipped ECU/ECU its running, if its still stock, walk away if its been boosted.
im pretty sure brett ran one at more than 0.9 bar on a stock ecu with no issues?
For the water in the boot, is it in the spare wheel well ?
If so, there is a rubber bung at the bottom - accessible from under the car, removing that temporarily will let the water drain out. It\'s probably coming in from the hood pockets or somewhere on the roof.