oooooh dear I have gone and done it haven\'t I... Bought lots of shiney new bits!!!
I have got to the turbo\'s on my car, stripped various bits down to find oil in the intercooler, and piping, play in the 1st turbo and ridiculous play in the 2nd. Oil all over the 1st turbo hot side inside and out?. Also various pipes have perished gone hard and snapped, especially the ones that around the turbo area. This is linked to my other thread and problems I had there.
I have took the plunge and started buying single turbo conversion items.
-uprated intercooler
-down pipe (to be modified 3" vband)
-manifold
-hks 50mm wastegate, with screamer
-FPR
the above is bought and in the post... ;)
This is a out of the blue build and I will be asking lots of questions and doing a build report with pics. I wont be going for the best of everything but not the real :censored: either. This is a project for me just to kill a bit of time when the BODYSHOP isn\'t busy.
- first question how the hell do I determine what to keep out of that mess under the intake manifold...
Vac line drawings :
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=749702
Make sure you get a Aftermarket ECU and boost controller, an uprated fuel pump............................................... (The list will go on !)
Shaun
id loose all of it just keep the emission valve near the filler cap if you want,also worth blanking manifold and removing airpump while apart,will clean it up loads,most of the rats nest is for twins and emmisions,apart from fuel regluator hence get a new one,id lose coolant on throttle body and double throttle too.
Quote from: shaunwil;802461Vac line drawings :
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=749702
Make sure you get a Aftermarket ECU and boost controller, an uprated fuel pump............................................... (The list will go on !)
Shaun
already got walbro pump is that not good enough???
-boost controller (sorted)
-ecu working on
Quote from: a.tapos;802470id loose all of it just keep the emission valve near the filler cap if you want,also worth blanking manifold and removing airpump while apart,will clean it up loads,most of the rats nest is for twins and emmisions,apart from fuel regluator hence get a new one,id lose coolant on throttle body and double throttle too.
any pics or diagrams about what you are suggesting
regards tom
Any one know if the below figure will be any good for a rotary, what kind of spool up etc would I expect and limitation top end if any??? haven\'t bought the turbo yet but any suggestions what size... I am wanting to do a bit of drifting but maintain a good top end aswell... A inbetween setup bit good at everything and not excellent at one thing if that makes sense... Quick question also is what fuel pressure would you set the car at as a standard to get it to a place for mapping??? what is the stadard fuel pressure I surpose is the question??
Inlet: 56.6mm || outlet:75mm || A/R: 0.7 || Trim: 75
Turbine
Ind 74.4mm || Exd: 58.4mm || A/R: 0.7 || Trim: 78
if you are drifting you need to add on a large uprated radiator and electric fans on both the radiator and intercooler
Quote from: m1tch;802643if you are drifting you need to add on a large uprated radiator and electric fans on both the radiator and intercooler
hi there, thanks for the info? any idea on those turbo stats
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00325.jpg
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00313.jpg
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00320.jpg
few pics of progress I made today. Then bloody turbo are easy in theory to get off but when a turbo nut decides it aint going budge its like hell on earth????? spanner rash coolant in face, bumps on head and so on and so on.... My hands are killing me.
My main problem which I have got is the rats nest, what to take off and more importantly what to leave on??? I want to leave the fuel pressure regulator and solenoid on until it comes to mapping the car!!
There is a picture above where it shows two pipes capped off what do I do with these if anything. Also which oil drain do I use and where do I get the blanking kit for the other...
Cheers tom
WHAT blanking plates do I need for a single turbo build?? is it just the rear oil drain kit, or would I benefit from the egr kit also??? PLEASE let me know asap so I can order from DM on here I think is the best place!!
regards tom :)
I thought you only need the EGR kit. I\'m not all that sure about a rear oil return. Although its a long time since I swapped to a single turbo (about 4yrs !)
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;802959I thought you only need the EGR kit. I\'m not all that sure about a rear oil return. Although its a long time since I swapped to a single turbo (about 4yrs !)
Shaun
yes you have two oil returns when you remove the twins? but you dont need them both, you only use the front one?? Also as part of the egr kit you get the aws blanking? is this nessesary or not
I never fitted the EGR stuff myself. WGT did it before I went over to a single Turbo. I did make a blanking plate out of thick aluminium on the UIM / LIM.
Any of the main tuners should be able to sell you the parts you need.
Shaun
Check out //www.dm-Motorsport.co.uk they have blanking kits that\'s where I\'m guna get mine from
Hope this helps
Kris
Just been looking at C-26 in the factory manual and the only oil return is at the front of the engine going into the front plate ! I\'m sure the turbos are tied together into a single return.
Shaun
Balls, shows my memory isn\'t the best :rolleyes: ! So there are 2 returns, I must have blanked mine at some point :Giggle
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;802965Balls, shows my memory isn\'t the best :rolleyes: ! So there are 2 returns, I must have blanked mine at some point :Giggle
Shaun
lol thought they was defo two?
What did you blank on the inlet mainfold?
I think it was on the back face of the Manifold. It should come with the blanking kit.
Shaun
need help guys I seem to be just sat looking at the car at the minute doing nothing.... It is the solenoids in the rats nest?? whcich do I chuck and which do I keep...
I dont want to alter anything on the inlet manifold as such like getting rid of the 2nd butterflys etc...
egr valve location as I cant find it???? any pics diagrams walk throughs of removing the rats nest during single conversion
regards tom
This may help you with the wiring.
http://m.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=879345
If its Jap spec you won\'t have EGR, you can toss every solenoid, the double throttle sticks open if you chuck the solenoid.
The FPR solenoid you can chuck and just connect a hose from the LIM (beside the rear secondary injector) to the FPR.
The purge control under the throttle body you can take the pipe from the carbon canister and tuck it into the chassis leg and do away with that solenoid.
I don\'t have any.
Quote from: philiwily;803203If its Jap spec you won\'t have EGR, you can toss every solenoid, the double throttle sticks open if you chuck the solenoid.
The FPR solenoid you can chuck and just connect a hose from the LIM (beside the rear secondary injector) to the FPR.
The purge control under the throttle body you can take the pipe from the carbon canister and tuck it into the chassis leg and do away with that solenoid.
I don\'t have any.
coool thanking you my friend, any more info you can give in regards to plumbing in the single and getting rid of the twins would be appreciated... It is a efini jap spec car, there is 6 solenoids all together in the rats nest? 3 I now know I can get rid of what are the other 3??
cheers in advance
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;803200This may help you with the wiring.
http://m.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=879345
this is a good write up and will be using this by the looks of things :Thumbs-up
The rest are for the twins, give me an email and I will send you some pics as I have just finished mine and it\'s sitting in my kitchen.
Quote from: philiwily;803228The rest are for the twins, give me an email and I will send you some pics as I have just finished mine and it\'s sitting in my kitchen.
hi there thank you very much mate, my email is: first-car@live.co.uk
regards tom
Ok got a bit further on the build this week, even with xmas day, boxing day etc and a few headaches from the devils drink :cheers...
First of all I will wish everybody a happy xmas and hope santa brought everything you wanted. :Laugh
I have made my own blanking plated for various bits and bats around the engine out of 5mm ally. Have hit a little snag which i am sure most single conversion come up against which is the heater matrix pipe getting in the way of the turbo??? (how did you overcome this, am sure there is more than one way of doing this).
I am fitting a FMIC, wow this is a ball ache, tons of cutting, shaving and adjusting needed to the cars body panels. :censored:
I will post some pics up later on how far I have got. Also I will have a few bits for sale off the standard setup if anybody thinks they need anything!!!
I\'ve run a water line down the opposite side of the engine bay using standard hose.
The standard hose position would mean you boil the water in the line :p
Sounds like your making good progress.
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;803995I\'ve run a water line down the opposite side of the engine bay using standard hose.
The standard hose position would mean you boil the water in the line :p
Sounds like your making good progress.
Shaun
What do you mean standard hose? Just black water hose, progress is steady just relocated radiator to fit fmic tday
Yep, just the standard rubber line. I got mine from a local motor factors. Need quite a bit.
Only bit you need to be really careful is don\'t disturb the line running to the engine. There is a plastic quick release that can go brittle over time.
Shaun
Cheers for the heads up on that shaun, we be careful around that area then
what is the smallest cca battery I will get away with???? do these cars use a lot of cranking power, I want to put the smallest battery on it I can in size/weight?
I was looking at a bosch s4019....
Just for the size of it?
let me know your thoughts :Tongue1
What about battery in the boot?
i take it your scrapping all the solonoids and gettting a proper fpr
also can i have my ecu back if you aint using it?;)
Quote from: a.tapos;804934What about battery in the boot?
i take it your scrapping all the solonoids and gettting a proper fpr
also can i have my ecu back if you aint using it?;)
Was going to use standard fpr for now and put a aftermarket one on at a later date???? dont no if this will cause problems???
I have done away with all solenoids including the fpr one? just hooked the vacuum line off the standard fpr directly to the LIM.
Yes you can have your ecu back :Tongue1 totally forgot about it :rollin it is amongst all the other boxes full of parts??
Have I got your address to send it back
Ok here is some pics of my progress so far.. A lot of the progress is little things like fabricating parts etc. I have made my own blanking plates from 5mm aluminium and a battery tray/box for the new battery location.
The fmic was a pain but finally done in a sense. I\'m just in the process of re-routing the heater matrix pipe as you can see in one of the pics.
Hopefully going to get her finished shortly 1-2 weeks HOPEFULLY :Thumbs-up
oooh and I painted the engine bay, sick of looking at it in red?
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00335-1.jpg
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00335-1.jpg#!oZZ4QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00336-1.jpg (http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00335-1.jpg#!oZZ4QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00336-1.jpg)
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00335-1.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00339.jpg
http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00335-1.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00340.jpg
Quote from: 123tom123tom;804950Was going to use standard fpr for now and put a aftermarket one on at a later date???? dont no if this will cause problems???
I have done away with all solenoids including the fpr one? just hooked the vacuum line off the standard fpr directly to the LIM.
Yes you can have your ecu back :Tongue1 totally forgot about it :rollin it is amongst all the other boxes full of parts??
Have I got your address to send it back
is the above ok with the standard FPR????
To make you pr pictures show, click the post card looking icon with 2 mountains on it, delete the hhtp I\'m there and paste your link into the box. Much easier to view the pics then
it will do the job as long as your not running huge boost/injectors and you get a good map on it,
ill email you it thanks.
(http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00373.jpg)
(http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00373.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00372.jpg)
(http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=DSC00373.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1130.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm531%2F123tom123tom%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DDSC00369.jpg)
progress so far??? getting there :p
do them pics work????
Nope, I can\'t see them
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00369.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00372.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00373.jpg)
I\'d look at simplifying the turbo side pipe. You are adding just extra pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0220-1.jpg)
Shaun
What he said ^^^^^^^
Quote from: shaunwil;805837I\'d look at simplifying the turbo side pipe. You are adding just extra pipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/shaunwil/DSCF0220-1.jpg)
Shaun
yes i was thinking the exact same thing lol.... been playing with different routes all day :xconfused
Right she is done in a sense?? I just need to finish fabricating down pipe, heat wrap it, and get her mapped!!
Dont have a go for the ridiculous routing of my intercooler piping lol :Giggle I love it
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00395.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00391.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00396.jpg)
she is back together and she looks like she has eyes, nose and a big grin lol
BIG THANKS TO EVERY ONE AND THERE INPUT, great set of lads. Cheers to those who sent me various bits also.... thumbs up to all
oooooh forgot to ask, how do you do the 12v mod to the fuel pump, can\'t find anything on here using the search.... would be nice to have some guide or pics to help me if possible
cheers :mmmm
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee155/philiwilyrx7/Fuelpumprewire-1.jpg)
thanking you very much
ok I started her the other day for the first time in weeks.... she fired straight up first turn of the key....
Few questions though: 1. The car seems to idle high all the time round the 1100 rpm mark,
2. I havent attached a vac pipe to the (secondary butterfly throttles actuator) sorry don\'t know what they are called. so they I assume are constanly open... any problems this may cause?
3. A stupid question here does heat wrap smoke when hot for the first time???
4. this is not a question but me letting everyone on here know what a plank i am sometimes... The car was running for around 5-10mins then a cloud of smoke appeared I quickly turned the car off.... dont be a dummy like me and leave the inlet feed for the turbo touching the hot side of the turbo, braided or not it will kill it and oil will go all over
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/img006.jpg)
I start the car today, I have a few issues maybe you guys who have done this and know more about the rotary engine can help me? I have drawn a very quick sketch of what i have done plumbing wise, please tell me if some stuff is wrong i.e fuel atomisation etc
1. car revs up if you steadily open the throttle alway to about 8000 rpm, if you rev it quickly like WOT stamp your foot kind of acceleration, it splutters and back fires, miss fires (NOT GOOD)
2. oil pressure is just below 2 on the gauge and moves up from that point with the rpm of the car, hight the rpm higher the pressure goes alway up to 8.
3. when warm car idles quite steady at 800 rpm. coolant temp is good also.
4. I took the car for a little test run in first gear and it would not boost, it kind of just dies like there isnt enough fuel when the turbo starts to spool at about 3500rpm.
5. this is proper wierd it takes water from the housing neck on the block I cant seem to fill it, thing is this is well the car is not running???? and I am almost 100% sure there is no leaks... no puddle no nothing, not one drip under the car. I am not sure about the AST been lower than the water housing if this would cause any issues????
one more thing is the previous owner told me it had a walbro pump on it, I checked as I thought some of the above was fuel starvation related... Guess what it has a denso standard pump, Which should a get walbro or bosche??
OTHER THAN ALL THAT LOL THE CAR RUNS AT IDLE FINE :rolleyes:
What ECU are you running ???
It needs tuning once on an aftermarket ECU before you give it any boost !!!!
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;808280What ECU are you running ???
It needs tuning once on an aftermarket ECU before you give it any boost !!!!
Shaun
hi there mate, I have only got a piggy back for it? Greddy emanage... dont want to run loads of boost just 0.7 bar .6 summat like that?
Any suggestions on any of the topics I have wrote down here, kind of desperate now lol....
there is no smoke coming out the exhaust anymore like there was before I single converted it???
help I am crying into my pillow :3Confused
Quote from: 123tom123tom;808283hi there mate, I have only got a piggy back for it? Greddy emanage... dont want to run loads of boost just 0.7 bar .6 summat like that?
Any suggestions on any of the topics I have wrote down here, kind of desperate now lol....
there is no smoke coming out the exhaust anymore like there was before I single converted it???
Sorry buddy, just got in from 10pin bowling League ! If you have a piggy back spend a little bit of cash sticking it on a dyno to check at least the map looks something like.
Safer to know its running rich than it going lean and throwing something.
Shaun
Hi I have the emanage blue piggy back, I know it needs mapping as it has standard ecu with a MINES chip on it??? The AFR gauge says it is running top end of optimal/rich kind of area, but as soon as you drive it in first gear and it get anywhere near the turbo coming on line it cuts like fuel cut????
But I didnt think this could happen unless you actually went on boost and past a certain point of boost??
This is what led me to think it was fuel starvation, so i looked at the fuel pump and it has standard pump? So what should I order, the HRC 290 lph or a walbro 255 lph, does it matter if I get a higher LPH pump than the walbro 255....
Also I am using the standard FPR with a direct vac line from the LIM no solenoids etc and standard injectors???
Quote from: shaunwil;808313Sorry buddy, just got in from 10pin bowling League ! If you have a piggy back spend a little bit of cash sticking it on a dyno to check at least the map looks something like.
Safer to know its running rich than it going lean and throwing something.
Shaun
I would suggest a better FPR, an aeromotive FPR, Bosch 044 fuel pump and get yourself an apexi ecu and a remap. It might add up to a but of cash but if it saves you from having the engine rebuilt then it\'s worth it, and you would also need to has these upgradesalong with ta rebuild so the expense would be even greater.
The smoke you were getting at first will just have been bits off oil in the exhaust and off the buts you have touched with mucky hands.
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;808346I would suggest a better FPR, an aeromotive FPR, Bosch 044 fuel pump and get yourself an apexi ecu and a remap. It might add up to a but of cash but if it saves you from having the engine rebuilt then it\'s worth it, and you would also need to has these upgradesalong with ta rebuild so the expense would be even greater.
The smoke you were getting at first will just have been bits off oil in the exhaust and off the buts you have touched with mucky hands.
no smoke from this car now? the twin turbos were to blame for that? In my previous thread I thought the car had chucked a seal as it would below smoke out, but it turned out to be the turbos were knackered, well one was.... that is why i decidedto go single turbo and now it doesnt smoke.....
What I will say is though if you are stood behind the car there is no smoke but it hurts your eyes to the oint where they water and smells like fuel?? so is it running lean or is it running really rich because of the mines ecu chip :confused:
That sounds proper rich but they are always proper rich on tick over !
Only way your going to get more fuel out of the stock injectors is using an aftermarket FPR. I still used the stock FPR with 1200 secondariness upto about 380bhp without too much hassle. I did have a better pump fitted though (pip fitted it in the early days and its still being used)
Shaun
I will fit a hrc 255 pump for starters and do 12v mod to it, what do you think the hesitation at wot is around the 4000rpm mark, starting to think it is coilpack relatedas it feels like a break down of spark or sumat like that it is doin mily headin abit
Right I think I am getting a apexi unit and PFC, I have stood behind the car today when it was running and my eyes started to water really bad??? and a funny smell.... Some one has told me that this is the car running lean at idle, I thought it was running rich :rolleyes:
like i said in earlier in the post when i rev the car up steady it will go alway up to the limiter with no hesitations, if I stamp my foot down it miss fires, bogs down, back fires etc especially at 4000 rpm onwards......
Could this be bad air fuel mixture? TPS has been mentioned, engine rebuild time, coilpack, ht leads, plugs???? clutching at straws, could a tuner tell when it comes to mapping it what is letting it down... it did this exact same thing before I single turbo converted it.
If it was running to lean on idle it would stumble and stall, infact you want it as lean as possible without any hesitation on throttle.
What are you using to measure AFR?
With a PFC and commander you can look at TPS and MAP sensor, infact all the sensor voltages.
Getting a PFC would save you a lot of time checking sensors.
Phil
Quote from: philiwily;808784If it was running to lean on idle it would stumble and stall, infact you want it as lean as possible without any hesitation on throttle.
What are you using to measure AFR?
With a PFC and commander you can look at TPS and MAP sensor, infact all the sensor voltages.
Getting a PFC would save you a lot of time checking sensors.
Phil
cool looks like I will be getting one then? AFR gauge to measure but it is one of those lean/optimal/rich ones??? came with the car.... It is running lovely at idle about 850rpm it is just the reving/driving of the car it does like rev been thrown at it so to speak, only likes progressional revs at idle and nothing above 4000 rpm when trying to drive it??? needs mapping though
She sounds rich to me mate,
You want a innovate or aem with a number read out really as the swing type guages are a bit hard to trace,
Also depends if the emanage has fuel cut/boost cut and which will also give you problems,
The standard ecu is designed to run twins so if you piggyback with most of the old solonoids missing it may go into limp mode too
standalone is the only way
ok cheers matey, p.s ant forgot about ecu either was going to try it on the car but not going to bother now just going to get the apexi
ok mate thats great thanks
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74329
daves got a 95 on but didnt know what age your is.
mine is a 1993. going to upload vids in a bit the runs like a bag of you know what, dont know if it is coils, leads,
god knows
Right here are two vids for you look at, see what you think and all oppinions and theories are welcome.....
As you can see in the interior vid, it is like the car is hesitating and looks especially around the 4k mark???
Also if you look at the oil pressure it goes quite high, dont know if this is right or not?
the car should rev without issues shouldnt it even without a map as there is no boost present????? coil breakdown :2eek i just dont no
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/th_MOV00420.jpg) (http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=MOV00420.mp4)
well its not going lean at the 4k mark so wouldnt suspect fuelling id say possibly make sure the double throtttle is open/vac hoses etc,like i say though if youve disconnected all the other solonoids and wastegate controls it may just be the standard ecu cutting the spark to prevent damage as it knows it cant control whatever its seeing.
Does look like a very obvious limiting/cut going on.
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/th_MOV00419.jpg) (http://s1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/?action=view¤t=MOV00419.mp4)
this is the external view?
Again as you can see very obvious limiting and popping???
A guy on the forum said he had the exact same problem and it was ecu that had got damp and terminals on ecu needed cleaning???
Now this made me think as my carpet underneath is wet near the ecu???
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00404.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00407.jpg)
I found this today? wet floor and a adapted harness to my standard ecu but nothing on it just cut wires??? thinking there may be some shorting or rusting of terminals :censored:
I work in the Food industry as an Electrical Maintenance Engineer and we commonly get operators washing down panels etc and causing havoc to electrical systems. We use electrical contact cleaner that drives out moisture and cleans salts etc from contacts.
1 really good product is ROCOL electra clean distributed by BSL Brammer and this is a huge bearing supplier with a depo in most citys. I swear by this stuff. I would take all edge connectors off and liberally spray on contacts. I would disconnect battery as well and allow 10 mins to evaporate, then do an ecu reset ( positive off brake and clutch down for 10 secs.....cant remember precise procedure at mo). Another supplier would be RS components, Farnells or Tandy type place. You dont want the contact lube as that just makes a mess a bit like WD40, and allow to air dry warm up as has a freezing action like most aerosols so makes plastic brittle. Can should be about a £10.00 worth a try....
Ok i have cleaned all connections today and it is still the same?? as soon as i stamp on the accelerator it hesitates and dies back in the revs.... it is overfueling like mad really really bad and there is a definate like stop bit like a lowered rev limiter at 4000-4500 rpm????
some thing is wrong but I dont think it is serious as the car will rev past that point if done progressively although again it will start to break down again at about 6500-7000 rpm
could this be coilpack related, ht leads breaking down, I am running out of ideas
what ever it is, is causing it to serious over fuel when running, I revved the car up to about 5000 rpm and on the droop in revs the exhaust set on fire inside, not popping flames actually on fire for about 5 seconds
Just sounds like its over fueling. Could be struggling to fire the spark (possibly).
Did you buy the PFC ? If you did wait till it comes then get it bunged in and off to a tuner.
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;809272Just sounds like its over fueling. Could be struggling to fire the spark (possibly).
Did you buy the PFC ? If you did wait till it comes then get it bunged in and off to a tuner.
Shaun
do you know any tuner not far from me Barnsley, south yorkshire
Its hesitating at around when the secondary injectors start to come in, are all the injectors ok/mapped in correctly?
Quote from: m1tch;809284Its hesitating at around when the secondary injectors start to come in, are all the injectors ok/mapped in correctly?
no map on the car yet at all??? didnt think it would matter about mapping on the spot without boost???? am i wrong
I have bought a apexi pfc and commander, but dont know any one to map it lol????
You could try Steve at mx5 motors/Hayward rotary north he\'s in Doncaster. There is pup at WGT over in Lancashire.
If Steve can map it for you I do have the data loggit software for the apexi he could use. I\'m over in Huddersfield BTW
have you changed the injectors?
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;809320You could try Steve at mx5 motors/Hayward rotary north he\'s in Doncaster. There is pup at WGT over in Lancashire.
Hahaha i know everybody loves pip but calling him pup is a bit to keen for me :rollin
Quote from: a.tapos;809382have you changed the injectors?
no standard injectors and fpr??? not going for massive boost or anything
regards tom
rang the tuners above, pip can get me in feb 10th, hayward north dont do mapping but they no a guy called carl chambers I think he said....
how much does pip charge totally forgot to ask lol
Quote from: a.tapos;809384Hahaha i know everybody loves pip but calling him pup is a bit to keen for me :rollin
Damn auto correction spelling!!!
if you have gone single you will need bigger secondry injectors, rail and fpr. i had a similair isuue when i bought my rx7 wouldnt rev when you nailed it but would take full throttle if you gradually increased it, i bought my car as a none runner and traced it to the fuel pump, bought a brand new walbro pump from ebay and it fired but thats when i had the problems your having, turned out the new pump wouldnt pump enough fuel to the engine, so fitted a known good second hand 1 and problem is sorted, i am running 95% secondry injector duty on the twins and am just away to put a kg parts fuel rail kit cause i am wanting to have the twins at near max and i have to do this cause the standard ones just dont deliver enough, so you def need other secondrys if your running a single
Quote from: wolfie1;809469if you have gone single you will need bigger secondry injectors, rail and fpr. i had a similair isuue when i bought my rx7 wouldnt rev when you nailed it but would take full throttle if you gradually increased it, i bought my car as a none runner and traced it to the fuel pump, bought a brand new walbro pump from ebay and it fired but thats when i had the problems your having, turned out the new pump wouldnt pump enough fuel to the engine, so fitted a known good second hand 1 and problem is sorted, i am running 95% secondry injector duty on the twins and am just away to put a kg parts fuel rail kit cause i am wanting to have the twins at near max and i have to do this cause the standard ones just dont deliver enough, so you def need other secondrys if your running a single
i was told by pip today that i would be fine as long as i didnt want to go above 340 bhp???? I have a hrc racing pump which i put on the other day... dont want to run masses of hp... leave that to the next owner :Thumbs-up
Pips a few hundred quid for a fresh tune on a pfc. You pay for the base map and the tuning needed to tidy the map up. Can take a while on the dyno. Always good fun signing the disclaimer and watching behind the vibrating window. Make sure you switch the screen on as well so you can watch all the action (copies what pip sees on dyno)
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;809554Pips a few hundred quid for a fresh tune on a pfc. You pay for the base map and the tuning needed to tidy the map up. Can take a while on the dyno. Always good fun signing the disclaimer and watching behind the vibrating window. Make sure you switch the screen on as well so you can watch all the action (copies what pip sees on dyno)
Shaun
give up my heart was pounding just reading that :2eek, when i put my supra on the dyno i pooped myself? signed the disclaimer and watch my car nearly come of off the dyno wasnt happy to say the least
Pips is a hub dyno so it wont be slipping anywhere
Its a hub dyno so it won\'t try and jump off because there is no rollers :D
I\'ve lost count how many times mines been tweeked :Giggle
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;809614Its a hub dyno so it won\'t try and jump off because there is no rollers :D
I\'ve lost count how many times mines been tweeked :Giggle
Shaun
thats good then.... I am a bit worried, today I started the car and let it get up to temp, give it a poke and everytime I did water came out of the overflow on the tank to the far left of the car is that normal????? when i let it cool down I opened the filler neck on the water housing and it had dropped to half way down, it basically pushed water out but didnt bring any back ???
Sounds like the AST is still burping the system. Keep topping up the LH water cap (on water pump). It should not need any more (or a tiny bit) in after a short while if all is fine.
Its just shoving out excess water, if it carries on doing it after a while its more worrying.
Shaun
right I have installed the apexi and commander, can someone explain if possible how to get it to idle properly it revs up and down 1000 to 2000 really quickly???
If I start the car with my foot planted down it will rev right round smooth as hell which the car has never done, but as soon as it drops back down below 4000rpm it does the eve up and down thing and wont rev past 3000rpm
Is there something I can switch on off, etc on the commander
regards tom
Is it a new Apexi and have you let it learn your car? from my understanding you need to plug it in and let it do it\'s thing for a bit... sure a few posts are around explaining the process
yep, the ECU learning process, do a search for the Apexi manual, it\'ll explain... although ur idling issue could be TPS or the like related ??!! :O
Start car let it run until idle smooths out. Then turn ac on let idle smooth out, turn of ac turn rear window heater on, smooth idle.
Think there is one more thing to do but can\'t remember. Once you get it mapped it will be all sorted
There is a voltage for the tps in the settings menu on the comander. Not sure what it though, I installed mine a long time ago.
If it idles too high when it settles down the tps position can be the cause.
Shaun
I have messed with the tps and had it off the car, does it need setting???? do these cars have a idle control valve ICV????
I have reset the apexi using the commander, followed this sequence, etc // data in it // yes // turn ign off and back on
Is that right????
how long does it take to learn itself???
is there any setting I need to change on this apexi pfc, turn anything on or off etc ???
yay i have got it running right???? for anyon out there with the symptoms i have had, it was the TPS, wrong voltage and needed setting up... I used the Commander to find the fault and fix it.... what a great bit of kit,
only problem I now have is my coolant system and trying to bleed it or burp it.... any one know where I can find the correct procedure for coolant replacement
cheers guys again
Take the back pipe off at around the back of the throttle body and let it sit up about the throttle. Fill up at the AST until it doesn\'t take any more water. Stick its cap back on. Carry on filling in the waterpump filler till it get to the brim. Cut a 2lt pop bottle in half and carry on filling at the water pump till there is a steady flow of water out of the pipe at the throttle body. Stick it back on. The fill the overflow up half way and keep an eye on it till it settles (usually it sets the low coolant buzzer off after 30 secs while its burping air out)
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;809971Take the back pipe off at around the back of the throttle body and let it sit up about the throttle. Fill up at the AST until it doesn\'t take any more water. Stick its cap back on. Carry on filling in the waterpump filler till it get to the brim. Cut a 2lt pop bottle in half and carry on filling at the water pump till there is a steady flow of water out of the pipe at the throttle body. Stick it back on. The fill the overflow up half way and keep an eye on it till it settles (usually it sets the low coolant buzzer off after 30 secs while its burping air out)
Shaun
I assume this is well the car is running? :Thumbs-up
Hell no !
Shaun
It will just pump coolant every where :Giggle out of throttle body pipe !
Shaun
Touch wood,(on 6fd\'s) I\'ve never done anything except fill the coolent through the coolent cap even with an empty block,rad,etc both on standard and moddified fd\'s and never had a problem burping the system by compressing the rad pipes...
Am so nervous about friday and the car going to WGT for Pip to Tune!!! Is there anything I should do prep wise before the car goes? even the small things..... any one got a check list to follow....
god you can tell am nervous am babling on
Just check oil, water level, fill about 2/3 full with fuel (don\'t brim to top because it can cause surge). If your going big then check gearbox and diff oil too.
Shaun
You will be fine :D
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;811150You will be fine :D
Shaun
I hope so lol I get scared over thrashing of my pride and joy :3gears-lh
and dam I just brimmed it today with 99 ron, £90 it cost me lol
you should be right amount by the time you get to pips if you just potter :D
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;811250you should be right amount by the time you get to pips if you just potter :D
Shaun
yeah i should be it is over 60 mile away so that will be scarey in its own right driving the car that far unmapped :eek
am changing the gearbox oil tomorrow, what is the best way of doing this?
Usually plenty of swearing trying to get the bottle high enough to get the oil back in :Giggle
The filling point is on the side of the box and a bit tight, gearbox oil usually comes in a squeezy bottle for filling, just keep filling till it starts draining out of the hole.
I have used a gunson ezibleed kit to push oil back in to the box before, still a long job but not as stressful.
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;811344Usually plenty of swearing trying to get the bottle high enough to get the oil back in :Giggle
The filling point is on the side of the box and a bit tight, gearbox oil usually comes in a squeezy bottle for filling, just keep filling till it starts draining out of the hole.
I have used a gunson ezibleed kit to push oil back in to the box before, still a long job but not as stressful.
Shaun
cheers, I have bought the factory recommended gear box oil, which is ep90 i believe??? can this be used in the diff aswell or is it just for the box???? someone told me they are the same??
hi before i go for mapping on friday I just want to clarify the plumbing of my fuel atomization pipe???
I have plumbed it straight into the UIM?
is that correct as it will see boost and vacuum???
:3Confused
I have mine plumbed into the front of the air filter so it always sees a vacuum looking at the original vacuum diagram in the service manual.
Shaun
I drained the gear box fluid off today.. there is two plugs that look like they might be refill points? one is like a big torqs bit to undo and the other looks like a big square plug???
The torqs one is directly inline with the drain plug but obviously on the side of the box?
I am hoping i have filled the right one now!!! as it took like 3 ltrs to fill there and there abouts before it spilt over????
Manual says 2.5lt so it sounds about right.
Top one is the filling point.
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;811504Manual says 2.5lt so it sounds about right.
Top one is the filling point.
Shaun
good I was worrying a little then.... how much does diff hold then and can i used the same stuff
Officially 1.3L. Will probably be a little more.
Shaun
just rang WGT just to confirm my mapping for tomorrow morning I asked for the price, they said £350, does that sound right or not, he ask me if it was a fresh engine etc have said the wrong thing??? I was told it would be more round the £200 mark
Quote from: 123tom123tom;811621just rang WGT just to confirm my mapping for tomorrow morning I asked for the price, they said £350, does that sound right or not, he ask me if it was a fresh engine etc have said the wrong thing??? I was told it would be more round the £200 mark
also forgot to add, I haven\'t plumbed a DumpValve into my system? this wont have any effect on mapping tomorrow will it??? :o as you can probably tell I am still freting a bit
350 is right, he will start from scratch basically and when you drive it away you will be amazed at the difference.
If you need it tweaking after Installing some new bits on the car he will charge an hourly rate to give you the benefits of those upgrades.
A lot of people don\'t run dump valves anyway, I\'m not going to be running one on my turbo setup but I do have a ported shroud inlet housing on my turbo, which helps a bit
Pip will be able to advise you on if you need one or not, but I\'m guessing no.
might not be to everyones taste but I think it looks quite good??? plus it has a actual purpose of keeping the air flow tight to the rad
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00473.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00472.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00476.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m531/123tom123tom/DSC00474.jpg)
sorry about pic quality, it was poor lighting and phone pic
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;811629A lot of people don\'t run dump valves anyway, I\'m not going to be running one on my turbo setup but I do have a ported shroud inlet housing on my turbo, which helps a bit
Pip will be able to advise you on if you need one or not, but I\'m guessing no.
cheers, thanks for the advice :Thumbsup!
All good ducting is a good thing! Dump valves are pointless.
Ducting looks good!
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;811642Ducting looks good!
cheers, made it myself, was well chuffed with the way it turned out. also made the turbo shield for the heat as my bonnet was getting extremely hot
The only way I would run a dump valve is if I had a really big turbo and a none ported shroud housing.
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;811649The only way I would run a dump valve is if I had a really big turbo and a none ported shroud housing.
is mine too big (t70) lol and it doesn\'t have port shrouding either
oh no!! it does compressor surge a little and I haven\'t even run it on boost because it isn\'t mapped of course
You will be fine ! Pip will tell you if there is any issues.
Its looking very nice, hope you enjoy the mapping experience :D
Shaun
T70 isn\'t big, I mean gt42, borgwarner 472 etc
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;811663T70 isn\'t big, I mean gt42, borgwarner 472 etc
i know it aint that big but still quite big??
It\'s big enough. It my meaning of big may be different to yours
so... how\'s it all going.... any updates ??!! :)
He will still be on the dyno !
Shaun
What\'s people bets on HP then?
320? Maybe?
344.2 bhp @ 0.9 bar injectors maxed out, wastegate stuck shut
spool 3000 rpm
full boost 3700-4000 rpm
Pip is brilliant at what he does and keeps you informed all the way hats off to him and thanks...
Things went wrong from the start!! The waste gate decided it was going to stick shut??? so it couldnt be mapped properley to WOT, Pip told me the problems that might occur during the mapping of the car like this and asked if i was happy to carry on, I said yes and "risked it for a biscuit"... He mapped the car for now to 3/4 to near full WOT, but could not floor it due to the massive amount of boost it would have produced...
I need to free the wastegate and take it back for a hour to get proper results
He said the engine is really strong, he can tell from the vacuum that it was causing on his computer... he suggested it might have had a rebuilt recently which was nice to here....
He said this car will make a extreamly fast car with bigger injectors and FPR
what you guys think???
Good results, considering I\'d say :)
Is that figure at the wheels?
nice one buddy....
Get some bigger injectors and and FPR and make it what it should be. Good numbers there, 90 over stock.:D what wastegate have you got?
What did pip say about dump valves?
Quote from: Grant Monkhouse;811816Get some bigger injectors and and FPR and make it what it should be. Good numbers there, 90 over stock.:D what wastegate have you got?
What did pip say about dump valves?
was ment to be a HKS one but looks like someone has had my eyes out and sold me a copy :reallymad:reallymad :flamed
as for the DV he didnt say much, he said down to personal preference, only thing he did mention is lag between gear changes could occur slightly but not enough to effect the drivability
Sounds like a really good day all in.
Stick some larger secondaries in and a FPR before you go back and then get the top up tune. Should see quite a bit more too :D
You will be amazed at what you get, good to hear engine is good an strong :D
Shaun
Quote from: shaunwil;811941Sounds like a really good day all in.
Stick some larger secondaries in and a FPR before you go back and then get the top up tune. Should see quite a bit more too :D
You will be amazed at what you get, good to hear engine is good an strong :D
Shaun
to be fair the best news i had was that the engine is strong.... I would rather hear that then massive bhp figures.... I am so happy that it didnt blow up as well :burnout
True, I\'ve been on the dyno last time only to find I needed to upgrade from a single plate clutch to a twin because the clutch isn\'t man enough ! Got a 1.5way diff too because it will be the next bit that won\'t be too keen !
Shaun
waste gate sorted today... I took it to bits polished the internals with various grits, wools, etc... then copper coated them for lubrication and heat protection. Job done it now opens and closes. Going to test on the compressor tomorrow before placing back on the car. I have a 0.7 bar spring in there so going to test at that first