As some of you know im planning on getting about 400BHP on stock twins in my car, this wil be as a middle stage before i decide to go fully single,
This is the current shopping list of parts that i am after for my setup
Here is what is on my shopping list:
From Atkins Rotary:
Master Rebuild kit (will be using stock gasket kit and Stock apex seals)
Oil ring springs
Pilot bearing and seal
Rotor Bearings
Stationary bearings
Bridgeport Template
Rotor Housing Race template
DM-Motorsport:
Full set of Purple Annodized Pulleys including underdrive kit
Full set of blanking plates
Other:
Secondary fuel rail
Bosch 1680 injectors x 2
Fuel Pressure Regulator - What make and link would be awesome
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - Will i need a fitting kit? will i only run this pump? will it be intank?
HKS Twin power or Equivalent - Please suggest other types
Longer coil cables - The coils will be located in place of the ABS once removed. Where to get these?
Braided Clutch Line - Damaged my last one plus might aswell do it properly
New battery for the boot - Suggestions please
Cable and battery tray for relocation to the boot/rear bin - Suggestions for where to get the cable or battery tray please
New ally Rad - Would like a KOYO but maybe use an Ebay jobby until one comes up for sale
Boost controller - Possibly ProfSpec 2
Uprated twin plate clutch - Hopefulley from Ed
The parts i currently have already are:
Big Panspeed front mount intercooler (may convert it to V-Mount)
HKS Down pipe
Decat Pipe
Blitz Nurspec
Apexi Power FC and commander
Apexi Induction kit with pipes
Now i will hopefully be doing the porting myself and am still deciding between a half bridge and a full bridge but that will be decided after a long talk with a few people, the stock twins will also have the wastegate ported to stop boost creep aswell.
Now the above parts are for 400bhp on stock twins but then are still useable for when i convert to single turbo.
Please could you give me your views on the above parts and spec and please be honest about if the parts are :censored::censored::censored::censored: then I will ammend the list and research into the suggested list.
Also if i have forgotten anything then please say and i will add it into the list.
Rebuild kit is being bought after new year but until then i will be practicing my porting.
Thanks for looking and i look forward to your input
Cheers
Kris
Why not just get a second hand single turbo if your gonna spend all that amount. Its very difficult sourcing a decent set of stock turbos, as they are very old now. Im on my third set now and they are knakered already. Im just building my parts up til i get enough money together..
I wouldnt bother bridge-porting if all you need is 400 ponies. Another thing to consider is noise, fully bridge ports are f***in loud! not in a good way unless you want your car to sound like a rusty chainsaw. And as for 400hp on twins, your turbos would last a nano second
See the reason i want to do it on stock twins is to first prove a point as i have seen and been in a car with 400bhp on stock twins that was used for drifting so constantly banging off the limiter,
The reason i want the bridgeport is also benifitial for when i bolt a single on there down the line as it will help spool up a large turbo like a T88-34D which will provide massive levels of power
Kris
Fair do`s, i have a a medium street port with all the mods you have just need to buy a few more bits then i`ll bolt on the t70. Am hoping for a modest 450hp. But saving for a v8..
Here is some suggestions.
Stock fuel pump.(Tried and tested by us up to 550hp.)
Aeromotive fuel pressure reg.1680cc secondaries and rail from KG Parts.com Kit B
Use the power FC to control boost, dont get a boost controller.
Brigeports don\'t have to be loud to make power.
If you can source 99 spec turbo\'s they are better for exhaust flow as they have one less blade on the turbine wheels, but the compressor housings are much tighter tolerance.
If you run a full bridgeport you\'ll get almost instant boost on Non sequential setup (I speak from experience)
HKS downpipe
Hope that helps.
Regards
Carl
So you reckon no boost controller? whats the reason behind this as im curious
You had a car with similar spec that i have planned?
Did the turbos run out of puff top end and what RPM was you hitting
Cheers
Kris
Hi Kris,
I built exactly that a few years ago.It was like driving a go kart! instant boost!No dyno figures but it was quick!
Boost can easily be controlled on twins by the Apexi ecu so I am just trying to save you some money on bits you don\'t need.
Regards
Carl
we were going to 9000rpm
is there any other modifications that need to be done to reach 9000rpm?
Also did you port the rotor housing exhaust port?
Was the LIM ported aswell?
Also what level of boost were you running and did it run out of puff at the top end?
Apologies for all the questions as i only wanna have to build this once and not have to change the setup
Cheers
Kris
Stock FC EGIs have a redline at 9k, my chipped ECU has limited my engine to 9k lol
Mistyped"........
Quote from: FD3S Efini;802477is there any other modifications that need to be done to reach 9000rpm?
Also did you port the rotor housing exhaust port?
Was the LIM ported aswell?
Also what level of boost were you running and did it run out of puff at the top end?
Apologies for all the questions as i only wanna have to build this once and not have to change the setup
Cheers
Kris
Yes we ported the exhaust too. the manifold was port matched to the inlets and the secondary butterflies removed from the throttle. It did not run out of puff no,but we were running 1.3bar which twins dont last too long at that level and in the end we went to 11,500 rpm to see what it could do but that warped the apex seals! 9000rpm all the time was fine on a lighter but stock clearanced matched rotor set.
Cheers for your reply, I don\'t think I\'m guna be running higher then 0.9 bar of boost this way I can keep the stock twins a little longer,
How do you get rotors clearenced?
Kris
Quote from: FD3S Efini;802521Cheers for your reply, I don\'t think I\'m guna be running higher then 0.9 bar of boost this way I can keep the stock twins a little longer,
How do you get rotors clearenced?
Kris
We do that ourselves.
What does it involve and what does it achieve?
And also what is required to balance?
Kris
Quote from: FD3S Efini;802536What does it involve and what does it achieve?
And also what is required to balance?
Kris
Clearancing allows higher rpm without the rotors touching the side plates.
Late FD rotors had the clearancing done on them from the factory.
The balancing is very expesive but matching two rotors means that alot of that is not needed unless rotors are lightened.
I have matched FD rotors from the same engine and are the same weight letter does this count as matched?
Quote from: FD3S Efini;802541I have matched FD rotors from the same engine and are the same weight letter does this count as matched?
Yes but what letter are they?
They both have a letter B and a letter E on them, both rotors have both letters on each
Kris
Bump letters are above Carl interested to hear your input in them
Quote from: FD3S Efini;802556They both have a letter B and a letter E on them, both rotors have both letters on each
Kris
Show me the Gear side of the rotors in detail and I\'ll tell you the weights, or you can bring them too me and I\'ll look.
Pics of the first Rotor
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/99e1d148.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/b31565e8.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/f52da860.jpg)
Heres the second Rotor
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/eb20c56d.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/6a457550.jpg)
(http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu68/walshy690/1978a77b.jpg)
If you need more detailed pics then let me know
Cheers
Kris