Hi all, I have not got round to fitting the larger secondary injectors into my FC. I have a KG secondary rail (thats fine) but the actual 1680 injectors don\'t fit into the LIM, do I have to remove the hard plastic injector spacer? I have no idea why its not fitting :( what am I doing wrong?
Do I need these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-RX7-FD-92-Injector-Collars-Spacers-5TWENTY4-/250915107510?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6bb4b2b6
Im really really losing faith in my car now, its just problem after problem!
yes you do have to remove the injector collars:Thumbsup!
Seems that the FD ones are fine for FC secondaries, would have needed longer ones if I were replacing primaries
http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/fuel_rails.html
So, those spacers in the LIM are just small plastic spacers and not those injector diffusers?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-RX7-INJECTOR-DIFFUSERS-/220801292397
Or is there an injector diffuser below the spacer?
Also HOW do I remove just the spacer and not the diffuser?
You need to modify the stock rail too.
I don\'t have a stock rail, its a KG parts rail so it can accept the larger size injectors, I now have those injector spacers/insulators which are now in the freezer, is it just a case of dropping those into the LIM onto of the diffuser?
Right, I have fitted the injector collars, the injectors fit in fine and will seal fine to the collar BUT something isn\'t right, there is a gap and the rail isn\'t sitting correctly.
The collars have been fitted into the LIM into the OEM diffusers but the collars are sitting proud of the lip of the LIM.
PLEASE HELP! I have no clue why my car is so hard to work on, they should just drop in so I can just bolt down the rail. I can easily pull out the rail and injector assembly without any force, im guessing the collars seal by mechanical force from the bolts ont he rail?
Here is the issue I now have! This is no longer funny and a real issue now :(
OEM diffuser (spacer is ment to fit on top?)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/CIMG0570.jpg)
Rail fitted with injectors - you can see the spacers
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/CIMG0572.jpg)
MASSIVE gap meaning I can\'t bolt down the rail
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/CIMG0573.jpg)
I DO NOT want to remove the LIM as I would have to take out the OMP as well, I NEED help on this :(
When the collars are not in the injector mounts, how far down is that rubber grommet I can see ?
It doesn\'t look very far down - so you\'ve got something in there that should come out I think.
I need to remove the diffusers, I can see them via the intake runners, I don\'t have a pick or anything to get them out and am rather worried about them snapping or dropping down, so I could put something underneeth them in the runner to stop this.
Quote from: m1tch;796651I need to remove the diffusers, I can see them via the intake runners, I don\'t have a pick or anything to get them out and am rather worried about them snapping or dropping down, so I could put something underneeth them in the runner to stop this.
Do you need to remove the whole thing, or just the breather part ?
The Diffuser / breather assembly is 2 different bits. I don\'t know if those spacers require you to remove the breather or not. But in the top of the hole, it looks like a black ring - which suggests a grommet is still in the injector seat.
I had a feel of it and it seems to be solid, I don\'t have a pick to take it out, looking at the photos of the diffusers it does seem to have an O ring on top, hopefully its just that I need to remove rather than the whole assembly
Why can\'t you take the LIm off? I wouldn\'t be working on anything on the engine/intake without removing it first. Just in case something drops into the engine.
Im preety certain that when Tim did mine he took the diffusers out hth
Seems this issue is not an uncommon one - found this thread over on the rx7club:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=720861&highlight=bosch+1680+injector
And mitch - you\'re replacing stock parts with aftermarket parts - you are going to get some issues like this - just take your time and seek advice when it doesn\'t seem to fit / work.
Looking at the photos and things on what I have it seems that they are 1 grommit size too high, will check when I can to see if there is the original grommit still there or not, if there is I will remove which will then probably drop down the spacers to the correct placement *crosses fingers*
Right, just been outside to check if its just a grommit and it seems that there are just the plastic diffusers. Is the LIM gasket ok to reuse or do I have to buy yet more parts to get my car on the road?
you will find you needed to remove the plastic atomiser all together
- or space the rail mounts up appropriately with washers
you can fish the atomiser out with a pick,, but they are easily broken and i advise that is best done with the LIM removed from engine
if the LIM gasket came away intact then it should be fine to reuse, if in doubt, give it a ( light ) smear with some RTV silicon ( sensor safe stuff if you still use the lambda sensor )
there is ooodles of posts world wide on how to modify the 1600 or other 14mm top/ 16 mm bottom injectors at each end suit the mazda rails and LIM
you have used just one of the methods to suit the base,, and dont need to mod the tops if that fuel rail is already to suit 14mm tops
the 1600\'s will be a prick to stage smoothly on some aftermarket ecus and the best upgrade i can call is to instead have gone for 4 x 1000 cc injectors
( siemens or rochy types , depending on your ecus ability to run saturated or peak hold types )
of the rochys , the best place to get them ( blueprint flow matched and modified for direct fit ) is from marren in the US
these fit easily, flow more than enough for most peoples needs , have dead times much like the stock ND and stage well on any ecu
( pro import versions are modified thus ,,,051000PI )
QuoteThe Diffuser / breather assembly is 2 different bits. I don\'t know if those spacers require you to remove the breather or not. But in the top of the hole, it looks like a black ring - which suggests a grommet is still in the injector seat.
primary position is two piece, with a double mezzanine surface
( the first section being a spacer with O rings , the lower section is the diffuser with two deck diffuser plate )
, secondarys is one piece , with single mezzanine diffuser at the bottom
Quote from: bumpstart;797042primary position is two piece, with a double mezzanine surface
( the first section being a spacer with O rings , the lower section is the diffuser with two deck diffuser plate )
, secondarys is one piece , with single mezzanine diffuser at the bottom
Thanks for clearing that up - I couldn\'t remember which way aroudn they were - I took mine out and replaced the o rings and gave them a clean - but I had the lim off and they were easy to push out from below with a long finger and soft brush - saves \'picking\' them and possibly breaking them.
Do you not need diffusers with the bosch injectors then ? I know my SARD\'s had a 2 jet metal pintle cover which spreads the fuel nicely - and they were also hi resistance types.
I know the ECU that mitch is driving the injectors with will work with the bosch units, and he has series resistors in place to prevent burn out of the driver transistors.
i reckon the 1600 will probably blow the bottom straight off the atomiser
need them? prolly not as there will likely be boost and high volume airflows going through the manifold when these stage
they do have a :censored::censored::censored::censored:house pattern, but at these airflows not a lot will wet wall
the late style multechs ( marren/rochy 1000 ) also have a spray plate built in and have a pretty reasonable pattern given the flow rate
Right, the plan is on removing the atomisers, I will spray them with oil in situe, I can fit something under the atomisers incase something snaps, I REALLY don\'t want to remove the LIM as it means that the turbo and all the lines will have to come off as well, not to mention snapping the OMP lines etc
I am going to try and remove them (probably with help) whilst the LIM is in situe, if they do snap and run down the LIM its got to come off anyway, but I would rather not have to due to the fact that I will have to probably replace the OMP lines with braided when they snap.
just undo the OMP lines at the banjo bolts on the pump itself
no need to break them
last time i tried what you suggest and ended up still having to remove the lim
placing bets now you get at least one out with three legs and no bottom spray plate