Ok I\'ve pretty much done the basic tuning on the rx i know tuning one is sim to most engines but i just want to check as its a different engine to most.
List so far
all emission devises removed including cat.
Twin alt pully
Uprate spark plugs and leads
ported actuator
adjusted actuator (tighter going to get aftermarket pos)
uprate racing ally rad
chipped ecu
air filter (direct cold feed one to be added later)
Boost controller (running .7 bar think .9 is ok???)
wilbro fuel pump
3" free flow exhaust
blitz bov
Intercooler soon to be ordered (v mount kit with rad from states)
have i missed anything out? Or need to do
Im going bigger turbo kit with ecu later on (but for now its not getting put on)
with intercooler on what bar is safe? Is it is.9?
0.9 is pretty much pushing the limits of all the stock parts. No point running more is the turbo runs out of puff.
Just make sure you injectors and fuel filters are in good condition/replaced. Maybe hardwire the fuel pump and make sure OMP and water pump are in good condition. You could run premix instead
Now is a good time to look at fuel rails / hoses, oil lines and general vacuum and water piping - the stock FC stuff is old and this will be letting you down when you want to push for more power.
Once you\'re intercooler is in, the next things are :
After market ECU or piggy back
Larger secondary injectors or additional injectors
Larger turbo
(probably in that order ;) )
at 0.9 bar the injectors are maxxed (my Knightsport ECU is running the primaries to 92%! - safe max is about 85%)
I suggest piggyback or standalone ECU and larger secondaries
What are your power goals?
If at about 350-400 look at getting a T04 turbo
If at about 400-450 look at getting a GT4088
If at about 450-600 buy my T88 lol
If at over 600bhp look at getting a remortgage and a T51R or Turbonetics thumper:D
my T04E made 374@ wheel at 1bar
T04R looking about 430+ bhp
With regards to boost, here is what I have reasearched:
less than 1 bar - no issues, upgraded intercooler and enough fueling required though
1 to 1.2 bar - water injection needed to reduce detonation
1.2 bar = safe max without reducing engine life
1.2 - 1.4 bar = safe for short bursts with full on water injection
1.4 bar + = high power, lower engine life the higher the boost past this point
Quote from: L18M;785725my T04E made 374@ wheel at 1bar
T04R looking about 430+ bhp
Hey Liam was it 374 at the fly wheel so about 310-320 at the wheels
Cheers
I have done all filters. Vacume lines that are left. One i get my gt35 on Im going to run the fuel lines inside with braded hose with wilbro in tank and 1-2 externals depending on second fuel rail or just bigger injectors.
My power goal is close to 350 without to much engine stress.
My car is going into storage over winter and half of summer due to winter then getting married so car won\'t be used. Plan is to fit turbo, ecu, injectors and have most of the bodywork sorted also full strip down new shocks and springs full bush kit and arbs.
All brakes have been done and clutch slave and master all with braded lines. I also have brembo radial calipers for the front.
But mostly just wanted to make sure i didn\'t miss anything out. Would seam water injection needs to be on the list. Also its on shell99 at mo but i can get 105 in ether st albans Milton keynes or watford.
tune it for 99 RON - it\'s more readily available and you\'ll not have to worry about hauling a fuel can around with you.
Sounds like you pretty much got it sorted.
Uprated secondaries (800/1000cc) will probably take you to your power goal.
Do rx7 run a set of secondary injectors as stock or do they just have 2 550cc injectors or do i need to have a second rail and extra holes put into the manifold? Or can i get away with uprated fuel rail with 1000cc injectors? Just means new rail means 2 pumps uprated rail and injectors meansonly 1 more fuel pump + fuel line would be cheaper.
You have 2x550 as primary injectors - these do all the work until you hit 3700 RPM and/or some boost - then the secondaries (2 x 550 as stock) come on - the primaries drop back a little as the secondaries stage.
Easiest thing is to just swap out the secondaries - as it tends to mess up the low end of the running map a lot less. The fuel lines and rails are good for upto about 500hp - but the stock FC pump isn\'t - I see you\'ve done the walbro replacement - it\'s also worth thinking about the rewire - as the stock fuel pump wiring is old and also thin - so could easily be losing you a volt or two at the pump.
Quote from: festa;785758Hey Liam was it 374 at the fly wheel so about 310-320 at the wheels
Cheers
305 at wheel :burnout
top work OP, covered everything well.
any pics? :)
can imagin it being a well sorted fc once finished :Thumbs-up
Yer i have a wilbro and fuel is suffering higher up where important looking the amps have tested and you hit about 6k back off for a sec and back on and the voltage isn\'t there for sec the picks up where the rest of the time you hit the throttle and it intently picks up the volts. Can you hard wire the pump or does it run at various speeds depending on the rpm? Some cars I\'ve worked on have variable and so are on all the time. I do notice it doesn\'t prime like some cars do. I do realise that with it hard wired in the engine would be more prone to flooding something which mine has never done.
PPics wise im taking pics as i do the build in the end of Oct she is coming off the road for 1 1/2 years for a full restoration and getting it all sorted as i want it 1 reason for doing it now is the tax runs out and i won\'t use the car in winter and 2 im then getting married end of April with 1 month honey moon there is then no point in getting tax for 4 months when it would get taken off due to winter again. Anyways all pics will be taken as i go and the posted as i do it. Down to every detail from wiring to the repay.
Quote from: billybobbooth;789183Yer i have a wilbro and fuel is suffering higher up where important looking the amps have tested and you hit about 6k back off for a sec and back on and the voltage isn\'t there for sec the picks up where the rest of the time you hit the throttle and it intently picks up the volts. Can you hard wire the pump or does it run at various speeds depending on the rpm? Some cars I\'ve worked on have variable and so are on all the time. I do notice it doesn\'t prime like some cars do. I do realise that with it hard wired in the engine would be more prone to flooding something which mine has never done.
It has 3 states - off (obviously), low (with the series resistor in circuit) and high (series resistor shorted by relay).
It\'s designed to \'fail safe\' so if the relay wiring fails or the relay fails, it will fail with the pump set to high - it means it may run a little rich on startup / idle - but won\'t rob fuel at higher loads.
The low mode is used from about 1 minute after starting, through normal warm idle and light loads - as soon as any load or boost is placed on the car - the pump switches to hi mode.
As for the priming - it should, but depends on the ECU. Stock ECU\'s definitely do prime, switch the car to IGN, but don\'t crank and you can hear the pump go for about 3-4 seconds. It won\'t start again until after cranking has started the engine - to avoid flooding at startup - which is an issue common to 7\'s.
I would say that the stock wiring is pants - it\'s quite thin and the voltage drop at the fuel pump can be a couple of volts when it\'s in high mode (to force high mode to do the check without running the car jumper the yellow 2 pin connector near drives shock tower - you\'ll hear the fuel pump as soon as you switch to IGN position). On normal idle with the stock fuel pump, the voltage should drop to around 9-10 volts, it will be higher on the walbro pump due to it\'s lower current draw
mine has the n380 ecu with a chip in but didnt prime before chip was fitted ether and it def dont prim not that i can here anyways, i can easly hear it when the car is running and if you jump the wire as i did this when i first got the car as i couldnt hear the stock one prime. also you can here the pump when you turn it over to sart it but def not when you prime as there was no voltage to the pump when i tried to find out which was the live pump wire for the alarm. (prob has been like this from day 1 not sence the alarm was fitted)
yer my guess is then that the relay isnt kicking back to hi when i back off for 1 sec then plant it again. as if you rev it all the way its fine but if you just pause on/ after 6000 it will be like fuel cut then carries on but its not fuel cut it the pump not pumping enought fuel.
so i cant really hard wire the fuel pump then?????
my plan in to re build all the wire harnesses for the car with thicker new wire all over the car and just tidy up all the stock wireing.
yer i dont wanna get into the prob of it flooding.
You\'re best bet is to follow the rewire how to from 1300cc.com:
http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm
It\'s what I\'ve used and works a treat.
might as well wait as its not just simple wire in job and ive only got 5 weeks left to use the car and im away for 3 weeks of that so may as well wait till i do my wire harnesses.
thanks for the thread though as it will be very helpful.