So I start my car up and It won\'t idle, is sitting at 1.5k rpm. I\'ve checked all pipes, other than my DIY blanked hose it could only be 1 other hose again that I\'ve DIY\'d.
This is the first one it could be, but I\'ve ordered a new hose blanking thing for it.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/9a447774.jpg)
The other is this one, I suppose I\'ll need a custom one for this as the oem one didn\'t fit the BOV. So we DIY\'d it with 2 hoses as you can see!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/6d207985.jpg)
I\'ll just have to take it all apart and get the right size and measurements and re do it all. I don\'t suppose it\'s anything to do with the coolant system and the only thing it could be caused by is me messing around with the BOV!
Is there anything else it could be?
can\'t really make it out too clearly in the pics - I\'m guessing they are night time shots.
Yeah they are, try and get better ones tomorrow.
Where the Jubaliee clip on the pipe under the BAC? Did you not use the OEM one that came off the OEM pipe?
How long is it sitting at 1500rpm? Mine idles at 1500rpm till it has warmed up, and I thought it was the normal warm up proceedure ;)
Just want to eliminate that option!
Might be an air leak, mine idled slightly higher, than I sorted out the TINY split in 1 of the intercooler hoses, now it idles correctly :)
Ben - does your rev up to 4k RPM when you start the car?
Mine doesn\'t rev up to 4K, it almost dies, then sits at 1500rpm. How about the other Ben? (when warm, mine idles about 700rpm)
It goes upto about 3k usually, then drops down to about 500rpm. Mitch the pipe you can see in second pic which is 2 pipes made into one, were put there as the oem one wouldn\'t fit. I think it\'s got to be something to so with the BOV as it was fine before.
Okay, so i\'ve been out this morning before work and taken apart the pipe i think that could be the problem. I\'ve also taken some more pictures that i should help support my theory, at least i hope so anyway! First picture is my DIY plumbed pipe, which as i say i have a blaking peice ordered for so i can\'t do anything else to this untill it comes. You can see it here with silver ducktape on and a stock hose clamp.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/bed07eba.jpg)
Then here you will find the pipe i think is causing the problem, we had to fit 1 pipe into another to get it to fit as i think there is a bend in the oem pipe and obviously with the BOV fitted it needs to be more or less straigt, problem is it looks like the BOV pipe connection is bigger than the one on the engine. The second of the following pictures (with said pipe removed) shows the difference in outlet size.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/435db799.jpg)
Then with pipe removed it looks like this:
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/6620da9e.jpg)
(sorry for the sun glare, kinda unavoidable) Ignore the top hose, i took that off just to get to the BOV easier. You can see though that the connection for the pipe on the BOV is a slightly different size, i will have to measure them up this afternoon to make sure i get the right size to plug this gap. Its all very odd because after i fitted the BOV everything was fine, took it for a drive etc and all seemed fine.
Any further suggestions greatly appreaciated.
The pipe that has the BOV attached - nornmally that has 2 smaller outlets - one goes to the BAC valve on the side of the engine through a \'s\' or \'z\' shaped hose, and the other one goes to the recirc valve. It\'s that connection that\'s normally used to fit a BOV, but I suspect you have a downpipe that has the BOV mounted to it, which means you\'ll only have the 1 connection.
It should allow orientation so that the stock hose can be used for the BAC, as this does need to be airtight or you\'ll get unmetered air and bad idle. Try rotating the BOV and Turbo to intercooler pipe until that end comes out slightly towards the wing.
As for the bit that\'s taped over - is that out of the back of the 90 degree bend just after the airfilter / air flow meter ?
Quote from: Prof;781802The pipe that has the BOV attached - nornmally that has 2 smaller outlets - one goes to the BAC valve on the side of the engine through a \'s\' or \'z\' shaped hose, and the other one goes to the recirc valve. It\'s that connection that\'s normally used to fit a BOV, but I suspect you have a downpipe that has the BOV mounted to it, which means you\'ll only have the 1 connection.
It should allow orientation so that the stock hose can be used for the BAC, as this does need to be airtight or you\'ll get unmetered air and bad idle. Try rotating the BOV and Turbo to intercooler pipe until that end comes out slightly towards the wing.
As for the bit that\'s taped over - is that out of the back of the 90 degree bend just after the airfilter / air flow meter ?
I can\'t turn the BOV because its quite big there is no space to move it, as far as having a downpipe with the BOV fitted to it - i have no idea. Neither did Si. The stock hose we just couldn\'t get to fit as it had a bend in it and was a fair bit longer than we needed.
And the taped over bit i think is where you mean, i will add a few more pics at the bottom to confirm as i don\'t know the names of anything or what it does to be honest. I\'m a massive n00b to this engine :Giggle
In this pic you can see the taped over part just under the BOV trumpet.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/08648a33.jpg)
And this is a closer look at it.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/RX7/IMG_0376.jpg)
Thanks for help Prof, are you thinking that its just an air leak as well?
It\'s most likely an air leak. When you see the size of the hole in the throttle body and BAC valve that\'s used for idle air flow - you\'ll see why even the smallest of hoses off can cause an issue.
Normally a vac leak post throttle will kill the idle as too much air is getting in.
Revving to about 1500 when cold is normal (upto 4000 rpm for 30-40 secs on cold if you\'ve got that stupid warm up solenoid still on the car and you don\'t start it with the car in 1st and clutch down (this kills the AWS warmup nonsense).
Right i didn\'t understand the last bit to well, probably becuase i\'m a bit dense! I will try and sort a pipe out that will bridge that gap and when i get the hose blanking cap i\'ll fit that too. The biggest pain in the ass is that i think the 2 connections are different sizes so i\'ll probably need a reducer peice as well as some pipe.
As for starting the car up, i usually start in neutral with clutch pressed in. Am i doing something wrong? The car usually revs upto 3-4k for a few secs then drops down to the usual idling point at around 500rpm, as you say i was always under the impression this was normal.
I\'ll try to sort this out asap but finding hoses and stuff over here is a real ball ache and ideally i\'d like to get purple samco stuff but i might just be being a bit picky as no one seems to stock these things.
The FC has a couple of extra solenoid valve\'s on it that are designed to push a lot fo air into the system when the car first starts. The purpose of this is to rapidly warm up the cat - but a lot of peeps don\'t really like to rev the engines from cold like this, so Mazda have put some programming in the ECU that \'defeats\' this mental warmup.
NOTE - the warmup only happens when the car is started cold - not when warm started. It revs to about 3-4K then drops back down to the normal cold idle of about 1500-2000 (does vary a bit from car to car).
To defeat this higher revving warmup, place the car in gear (1st) and keep the clutch down (don\'t want to go through a wall or shop window - lol) and start the car - it will only rev to the normal cold idle.
The system is called Accelerated Warmup - and it\'s a stupid idea !
Right okay, well even wen the car warmed up it didn\'t drop below 1.5k. I guess it\'s best to replace the hose then hope it goes back to normal.
I\'ve measured said parts and it seems that the part coming from the engine is 15mm and the BOV connection point is 20mm. Does that seem right to anyone? Could be a problem as i\'ve not seen any 15mm reducers from 20mm :(
why is everything so complicated?
I can get a 19mm to 16mm reducer, think this will be okay. Surely the hose can flex by 1mm and the other side can be jubilee clipped tight?
I only have 1 request - please upload bigger photos! I run my monitor at it\'s native res of 2048x1152 and your piccies are tiny, so I can never help at all! 1024x768 is a good size IMO.
I can\'t my photobucket account is gay and i only have an iphone for photo\'s :(
That massive rev up to 4k RPM is the AWS (accelerated warmup system) to disable is press and hold the clutch and put the gearbox in 1st and start the car.
That\'s fine, it really doesnt bother me. It\'s just the fact it won\'t idle that I want to get sorted, hopefully parts will arrive this week ready for next weekend.
It will be a tiny tiny air leak, any bigger and the unmetered air won\'t allow the engine to sustain even a high idle.
Yeah I\'m sure it\'s only minor, I\'m just overly paranoid and refuse to drive her until she\'s 100%!
Right, well a mate of mine came round with some 20mm black rubber hose (like stock) so I\'ve fitted that in place of the suspect hose and replaced the taped bit with 2 peices of tape. It sits lower down now on idle, still not idling at 500 as it used to but then if I rev it it gets stuck at 1.5k again. If have thought the rubber hose with a tightened clip on would be okay on the 16mm part I mean it certainly looks tight.
Anyone with any further suggestions on the problem? Really getting on my wick now!
Been screwing my nut over this, the pipe i\'ve fitted looks like its doing the job and i can\'t really see how air would be leaking from it. There is no was that the BOV could be causing the air leak is there? Like it couldn\'t have come open for some reason could it whilst we\'ve fiddled about with it? Then again, it would have had to come open randomly before that.
Its doing my nut in my now, i can\'t seem to solve it :(
So if you rev the car it falls back only to 1500 rpm ?
What happens if you catch your foot underneath the accelerator and gently pull the pedal up - do the revs drop low again - can you find a stable idle point ?
I do wonder if you\'ve just got a sticking throttle mechanism ?
If you\'ve long and thinnish arms, you can probably get behind the intercooler and rev the engine from there - see if you can detect any sticking / over tightness of the throttle.
Right, i\'ll try that later this evening.
I\'m wondering if taking her for a drive might help, or is this a bad plan you think? This can\'t be caused by me changing the coolant pipes can it? As thats the only thing i changed since it was working fine.
Quote from: B.Martin;782576Right, i\'ll try that later this evening.
I\'m wondering if taking her for a drive might help, or is this a bad plan you think? This can\'t be caused by me changing the coolant pipes can it? As thats the only thing i changed since it was working fine.
Well - I\'m wondering if it\'s related to the warmup system on the throttle body not quite working as expected. Might be worth you \'burping\' the coolant system.
Warm the engine up normally, and set the heater controls to max (I know - it\'s Cyprus and 100 degrees, but it will open up all the coolant flow pathways), then jack the car up at the front. Wait a bit for the rad to cool - and carefully open up the rad cap - if it even starts to hiss back off and wait some more. The idea is to fill the rad up now, as it should be the highest point. Then check the expansion bottle is at or just under the level and pop the cap back on. Run the car again until it\'s warm and see if you\'ve got rid of the problem. Jacking the car up and running it a little should encourage any air bubbles to work around to the front / top hose and into the rad.
Okay sounds like a plan, i will do this first and see what happens. If no joy i think i\'ll take her for a drive and see how she responds, this will at least give an idea of what is problem i.e boost leak (if there is one) or something else entirely.
Thanks again for your help Prof.
Right, touching wood as I type this but it seems to be fine now. Prof I think your right it\'s something to do with the engine warm up sequence, this time I started it and it went upto 3k ish then down to 1.5 then finally down to 800rpm. So I took her for a drive to see how she ran and to see if there was evidence of a boost leak. I found that when I stopped at the trafic lights at the bottom of my road she was sat at 1.5, so I ignored it and carried on down the beach road. Around a mile later around 3-4 mins driving through casual trafic (and once the engine had inevitably warmed up a bit) I was again caught at some traffic lights. This time however the idle was at a normal 800rpm, then after some boosting with no problem at all and with the BOV seemingly working just fine I\'m hopeful the problem is behind me. I\'m going to assume that there is perhaps a small fault with the system that warms the engine up, I\'ll also try turning the heaters on later this evening to open all the coolant passageways.
Big thanks to (Prof) all that helped :)
Right
it start from first turn, but it don\'t keep RPM\'s
If I use throtle for keep rpm\'s it feels like it a little struglink to burn up everything, thinkg of backfiring, but no fire on low rpm...
it doesn\'t mater cold or warm engine.
I have check for air/vacum leak, all fine
CO2 sensor is fine as well, then I decided to unploag air flow sensor and started car again. Hmmm it was working on 1500RPM a little bit jumping, but working. After I pluged it back the car again do not keep any rpm\'s
Any Idea\'s?