Hope this is the right section.
Anyways i went out today to go for a run in the FD. Started her up as always and left it heat up. Opened the bonnet the check the waer resoirvoir for the wipers and then just unexplainably cut out. Igniton was still on though because i could still hear the interior fan blowing.
Started her up fine without a problem and then cut out again. Noticed it hunting for idle though. Gave it a rev and it settled. It then cut out a third time and then struggled slightly to restart this time.
I now out of fear dont want to drive incase its something serious or it cuts out on me and might refuse to start.
Actually getting fed up owning a rotary a little bit now :(
Does anyone know of any ideas of the cause or a cure?
enough juice in it? not running it low?
when did you last change the plugs? What rpm is the idle at?
What Engine management system are you running? where about in the UK are you? It looks to me that its flooding..the worse you can do is, you rev the car when its cold because, ECU throws a lot of fuel in the chamber, hence you end up with flooded plugs and the engine wouldn\'t be able to start.
I would say, take your plugs out, get them clean also dry them and then try to start it then. Hopefully it would start.
Mir
Thanks for the suggestions folks.
But definately enough juice. Just a touch off full
PLugs were changed 3k miles ago.
Im up in scotland dude.
Its not like its not starting though. Its the fact that its cutting out when started though.
Could it be an electrical problem?
forgot to say its running a MINES ECU.
Wondered about this before because its an aftermarket ECU might be the problem with fueling an such whatever.
Its got an induction kit and an exhaust. Would it be bette if i just went back to a standard ECU?
If you don\'t have any major mods (i.e. stock turbo\'s, nothing much uprated) then it\'s worth a try putting the OEM ECU back and seeing if it makes a difference as it likely has a different fuel mapping. Or if you have an idle-mixture-adjust screw you could try making your idle just slightly more on the lean side, though I\'ve no idea where it is on an FD. But if your idle RPM\'s are fine then you shouldn\'t need to adjust it.
this is the first fd ive heard of using a MINES ecu i thought they mainly tuned piston cars ie skylines and scoobys, well you learn something new...
where about in scotland are you?
plugs... is my guess.
Check to see if the car is in limp mode. Idle screw could have moved too causing it to eventually die. Seen it happen more than often.
It\'s had a rebuild recently so I wouldn\'t think it\'s a major engine problem. Just my luck it would be a very silly thing.
I\'m going to try the ecu, but I\'ve been told if it\'s been fine with this ecu on it before and the problems just happened recently then it\'s unlikely the problem.
The previous owner knew that there some was something different about the ecu but didn\'t know what, he said it just felt faster than a standard fd. Did some digging and MINES was imprinted on it.
I\'m down by the west coast dude. Just outside Glasgow.
Might try plugs.
Asked a few people for help an they say it might be a few things. But having no real mechanical knowledge and tools it makes it harder to check.
Could be an earth problem/ complete electrical problem
Throttle position sensor
Idle control valve
Any tips on who to take it to see? And bearing in mind im in Scotland and there\'s no real rotary tuners here.
Okay there, try call for marko http://www.the-garage.co.uk/index.php,
he can check the ECU...etccc...
you\'re right there\'s no tuner there... I know that\'s a joke
my adviced\'s don\'t ask any pistonhead people how its work cos 99% of them in Scotland "KFA"
hope it helps
Mine does this too, did it twice yesterday..I was told it may be that the aftermarket mods that are fitted to my car are not mapped as the ecu is standard.. been advised to upgrade to a power fc and commander and get a custom tune to sort it out. My idle is low, ive seen others with over 1000rpm idle and mine idles at about 500rpm :( dont think this is normal..
Why are you leaving it to idle to warm up ?
Just jumping in and driving off boost is much better for your car
Quote from: matthewbellamy;778744Mine does this too, did it twice yesterday..I was told it may be that the aftermarket mods that are fitted to my car are not mapped as the ecu is standard.. been advised to upgrade to a power fc and commander and get a custom tune to sort it out. My idle is low, ive seen others with over 1000rpm idle and mine idles at about 500rpm :( dont think this is normal..
Adjust your Idle dude... The ecu just doesnt go bad sometimes, and then others. Its either it bad or not.
How do i adjust my idle though?
Quote from: neil_jdmr;778749Why are you leaving it to idle to warm up ?
Just jumping in and driving off boost is much better for your car
I wont even touch this statement.
Even though it\'s almost impossible to boost the FD when cold, if the thermal wick is working correctly.
Quote from: matthewbellamy;778817How do i adjust my idle though?
Look right by the throttle body where the cable hooks on to it. Just before the cable curves you will see a screw head point directly up. It goes through the manifold and pushes on a lever from the throttle body. You will need a little wrench think 6 or 8mm wrench to loosing it then use a screw driver to adjust.. Ill try and get a picture up to show you.
Yes please mate that would be really helpful! Im a noob lol :P
Not my car,so I hope I dont get in trouble for this . lol
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj5/caystang/rx7tb.jpg)
Cheers mate ill have a look into this :)
Quote from: Indian;778818I wont even touch this statement.
Even though it\'s almost impossible to boost the FD when cold, if the thermal wick is working correctly.
Whoah yeah, don\'t boost off lol
Have you checked for any air leaks? Might be the case that the car starts up fine and as it warms up the engine might shake slightly causing an air leak?
Quote from: Indian;778818I wont even touch this statement.
Even though it\'s almost impossible to boost the FD when cold, if the thermal wick is working correctly.
Why ?
Getting in your car and driving" off -boost" IS much healthier for your engine than it standing still just on idle
Read my thread back and my punctuation or lack of let me down.
Ok :-)
Well today i adjusted my idle and thanks to Indian its worked and no longer stalling. I had my idle at 250rpm! its now at a healthy 750-800rpm, i think this is right?
an healthy stock port rotary will idle at 8-950rpm. When it is warming up it will jump up to around 2000 until a certain temp. When it drops, then it is fine to drive. You can over ride this by "blipping" the throttle, and it just go down to 1000ish.
Glad your sorted mathew. Now go enjoy your car.
When i start the car the revs go to 1,500rpm, after it warms up it then goes between 750-800rpm and stationary at traffic lights it stays at 750rpm. No sign of any stallling when reversing, seems to pull better aswell, not sure if thats because the idle has been set higher?But anyway i hope this sounds ok :)
sounds fine.. if you have a boost gauge what is your vacuum reading? a healthy stock port will be around 16-18inhg.
Thanks mate. I do have a boost guage , and it reads exactly 16-18nhg :) , the water reads 80 degrees and if i do go fast for any reason the temp rises to 100-110. I have an intercooler fan which brings it back down to 80. What should the oil temp be? The coolant level is always in the middle halfway between hot and cold.
cant remember what oil temp should be, your more concern about oil pressure though. Oil pressure should be around 30-60 psi at idle and around 100 when you get on it. Thats the important thing. Unless you track your car, hard, you should have to worry about oil temp.Do you have an type R model (two oil coolers) or a RB(touring) single oil cooler model?
The water temps are fine, Your numbers reading are lower than what is factory suppose to be. Optimum rotary temperature is around 90, and the fans are setup to come on all out at 119-121. Your number are 10 off, but as long as you keep this in the back of your mind your good.
Ill keep a check on my oil temp next time im in the car and see if the figures are the same as you suggest. Ive never tracked my car mainly for the fear that i dont feel my car is running right, so far it looks good though :) Im not sure what model i have to be honest and doesnt say on the log book either . Its an Efini and thats all i know which i think has only one oil cooler. My fans come on using a switch (prev owner cut off the radiator timing fans and used this as a cooling method for the intercooler and the radiator, you can of course switch them on/off at will). I do notice after a while of driving between 15-30 miles my feet start to get a bit warm even though the heating isnt on, is this the heat from the engine and if so is this normal or should i be thinking about creating new air feeds to keep the bay cooler or a vent?
I didnt give temps for the oil temperature. I gave oil pressure readings. Also, Efini is the brand, two of my rx7s were Efini and both were type R\'s. Check to see if you have two oil coolers or one. two = type R. one= type rb.
The heat is honestly normal depending on how sensitive you are to it. It can also be that the shielding under the car was not put back. Not having the tray under the transmission can cause that too, it is use to channel the air throw the bottom of the car. Also there should be some reflective shielding under the carpet to help with the heat.
sorry mate i misread that.. I wouldnt even know if i did have two oil coolers or not, this isnt the sort of car im used to ,its my first ever proper car, im like the Karl Pilkington of rotaries if there was ever a person who didnt know a fat lot , i keep learning every day being here on this site lol.
thats cool bro, you have to start from somewhere. Look at the front of the car. The two holes at the lowest part of the bumper (Beside the main air intake hole ..big hole.. for the radiator). If you see a small looking radiator at each of those holes, then you have a type R, if you see only on, on the left side of the car, then you have a type RB. :)
Here is a picture of the right side oil cooler without the bumper on: (http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/51274/Image/Normal/Image7.jpg)
ah excellent, iwas wondering where those were! Ill have a look tomorrow in daylight, so once i know if i have one or two oil coolers what should i be doing next? Thanks for your understanding you are being realy helpful :)
it\'s just an FYI to know what model you have. Most rx7 owners will never over utilize the dual coolers, as they are more than competent in keeping oil cooler temps down. They are super function if they still have their factory ducting for maximum airflow.
Quote from: matthewbellamy;779023When i start the car the revs go to 1,500rpm, after it warms up it then goes between 750-800rpm and stationary at traffic lights it stays at 750rpm. No sign of any stallling when reversing, seems to pull better aswell, not sure if thats because the idle has been set higher?But anyway i hope this sounds ok :)
Thats exactly what mine does :) all is well :)
the high initial number when starting from cold (1500rpm) is the fast idle system warming the engine up. When it\'s done it\'s job the revs drop the normal 800 or so
graeme
Thanks Graeme good to know mine sounds ok aswell. I just need to update you with the boost guage level, today it was showing 18 just on the edge of 20 so hopefully this means the engine is well :)
Just had a look at the car and i spot 2 oil coolers = Type R. Is that a good thing then? :)
your good :)
Thanks for the suggestestions guys,
going to get a set of new plugs and justa good service to see if its just the lugs on the way out causing the engine to stall on idle.
NOticed the air pump does a weird thing sometimes as well.
I would rev the engine and the airpump would like \'stall\' for lack of better description.
Like i would rev it then the aipump would stop spinning then kick back to life again.
Take it its nt meant to do that?