Mazda Rotary Club

Pretty much all of them can be removed - 2 are emissons control, 1 is called PRC - it cuts vacuum to the fuel regulator when the car is started warm - you can remove that if you\'re happy to just blip the throttle for about 30 secs on a warm start - after that the solenoid is not active any way.
 
There\'s a boost solenoid up the oil neck too, can get rid of that if you\'re using an aftermarket boost controller or manual boost controller.
 
That allows you to remove pretty much all of the black rats nest of hoses and pipes that sit under the upper inlet manifold :)
 
If the airpump is gone you can get rid of the ACV on the side of the engine if it\'s not already gone - it sits under the BAC.  Have to admit I kept my BAC as it adjusts engine RPM for PAS and other electrical loads.
 
I\'m fairly sure there\'s a simplified VAC diagram on the site here that was borrowed from RX7 Club - I\'ll see if I can find it.

thanks prof that clears some stuff up :) nice info on the PRC valve
 
going to be using an apexi avcr boost controller so will remove the boost solenoid as well
 
yeah i want as much as i can gone
 
yeah the ACV was there but ive now removed it also, i was thinking of keeping the BAC also but the new additional injector manifold has had the hole for it welded up so thats made my decidion for me lol
 
if you find it mate that would be awesome, i\'ll have a search for it as well
 
thanks man

This thread shows the vac and other routing - There is a similar diagram - which I can\'t find - showing the simplified plumbing :
 
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64719

Thanks, that helps as well, seems like i can remove a fair amount then :)

Bingo !
 
Found the diagram.
 
Incidentally - I removed the solenoid in the green pipework - just go straight form manifold port to FPR ;)
 
I also removed the purge control valve - that\'s another 3 lines - capped off the lower vent on the oil neck, and just retained the upper one that Tee\'s in from the charcoal can back through a 1 way valve to the intake piping.
 
I wired some resistors into the loom to fool the stock ECU that the solenoids were still there, and the engine runs fine without all of that stuff :) - You won\'t have that problem with the Microtec :)

I\'m running Microtech too, junked everything and capped nipples off apart from line to FPR, MAP and Boost Gauge. Attack your throttle body next-there\'s a fair bit you can lose off of that and free the flow up a bit.

niiiiiiiiiiice :)
 
thanks, thats made it a lot simplier in my mind
 
do i really need my charcoal filter? i presume that when i get rid of most vacuum pipes i can get rid of the vacuum reservours as well
 
yeah should be fine with the ecu :)

sounds good captain bizzaro! have you any pictures of when you ditched everything?
 
yeah secondary butterflies are getting the chop as well :)

now that i have a grasp of what i can and cant ditch, i have a few other questions,
 
1.
what the hell is this? lol
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00376.jpg)
 
2.
whats this? oil pressure?
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00377.jpg)
 
3.
whats this? little connection hidden away?
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00390.jpg)
 
4.
im doing away with the standard oil cooler and fitting a trust cooler with filter relocation kit and thermostatic control plate, the filter relocation bolts onto the original fiter housing and the oil cooler runs off the filter, this renders the original oil cooler ports on the block of no use, my question is do i just block these or to i have to link them? does the oil circulate using the standard oil cooler?
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00386.jpg)
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00391.jpg)
 
you can see the standard ports at each end of the block
 
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20110722-00385.jpg)

Why are you doing away with the oil cooler? You going to be running more than the 500bhp that its capible of?

Changing it as it came attatched to the filter relocation kit that I primarily wanted but due to running a bit kit and going to be using a v mount setup I can mount the cooler under the n\\s headlight and get good airflow to cool it and allowingi better airflow through the v mount as well

Here are some answers:
 
1)  Air Supply Valve - it passes air from the hose above it into the plenum mixing chamber.  It\'s electrically wired in parallel with the Accelerarted Warmup System Valve (AWS) and is responsible for that horendous revving when you first start the TII engine.  It can be eliminated and blanked off - no need to cap the hose either :)
 
2) Is the Oil Pressure Sender
 
3) Is the for the Engine Water temp gauge in the car - and is really just measuring the temperature of the block - although it is in the water jacket and in contact with the coolant.  It\'s got so much thermal inertia that the gauge never really moves from centre unless something very bad happens.
 
4) Don\'t know if you can block off the oil coolant passages or whether you need to have flow there.  The oil comes out of the front one and returns to the back one - although there is a thermostat valve in the cooler to prevent the oil flowing when it\'s not warm enough - so evidently the system can work without the oil flowing through that path ;)

prof you are an all knowing FC genius :D if the standard cooler has a thermostatic control i should jus be able to blank them off :) great stuff :)

Long live the Prof :god

Quote from: B.Martin;781329Long live the Prof :god

Cheers man - just happy to help - having lived with my car since late 2002, I\'ve got to know it very well ;)

HOLY THREAD REVIVAL!!!

Hello everyone!

I won\'t lie, I have made this topic originally on RX7club and we are curious to discover what all these you will see are and what they do..
Anyway, here is the post.. Sorry for it being too long. Please help!

I got down to replacing some of the cracked vacuum tubes in my rats nest this evening and I found out that I have 4 solenoids instead of the 3 mentioned in the FSM. The extra one is of green plug colour. My motor is an S5 Turbo2.

I searched and searched again the fora.. At first I thought that it had an S4 turbo nest fitted, but that was not the case, since I traced the green solenoid lines and they were not going to the exhaust mainfold (no flap in mine anyway). This solenoid had 3 lines connected instead of two. One was hardline T-ed to the FPR together with the Orange solenoid, one was coming under the UIM and one was running to something like a vacuum chamber. Yes, I also have that thing. It is located in the right side of the engine bay as we look at it, right behind the headlight and the coils.

I live in Europe, so that\'s a european model.. It originally was fitted with the N380 ECU, which I replaced. No clue if the new JDM ECU can handle this nest.

I was about to believe that I comprehended the nest, but now I\'m back to zero.  :(

OK so this is the green solenoid..
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/IMG_20130506_105025_zpsf5bc1d54.jpg)
Please ignore the adjacent one, it is just a replacement I made for my faulty ACV switching solenoid..

This is the other side of it..
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/IMG_20130506_105052_zpsef309621.jpg)
It certainly is not turbo port related.
The wastegate duty cycle solenoid is removed since I have an EBC. You can see its hardlines open.

Here you can see the T and the check valve for the vaccum chamber..
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/IMG_20130506_105110_zps243044f4.jpg)

And here is the vacuum chamber itself..
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/IMG_20130506_105118_zps387e3b4b.jpg)

Finally an overview:
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/IMG_20130506_105131_zps75c6eee7.jpg)

I also made a drawing of what I think I found out so far, so that I can help you help me. :)   I may be wrong though..

Here it is:
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/Schematic_zps6e39d3f0.jpg)

Thanks for your time! :)

***UPDATE! If I saw correctly, my stock FPR has 2 vacuum lines, one before and one after the diaphragm, so maybe the green solenoid and the vacuum tank are connected to the extra port on the side of the injectors on the FPR? :Hammer

So based on this update I made a new drawing..

(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/Schematic2_zpsaedff24c.jpg)
Could it be something like this?

Thanks again..

I\'ve seen fuel rails with the 2 vac lines before as well - I thought the Green solenoid might have had something to do with the more complicated exhaust that the first Turbo FC\'s had - where there was an actuator on the exhaust manifold to operate the twin scroll turbo arrangemet - this got binned in the later T2 models because they used a modified turbine blade profile which starts straight and curves out at the end - it effectively does the same job as all the fancy plumming.
 
If you go with an aftermarket FPR, then pretty much all of that stuff can be removed which helps reduce the chance of vac leaks or erratic behaviour due to electrical issues with our old and crumbling looms.

im actually having problems with a standard turbo2 rats nest at the moment as well, my fuel rail has 2 vacuum take offs and i was kinda baffled by them but think i have that covered, not 1005 sure what each solenoid does exactly either lol my problem is it wont idle, will start, will rev but will cut out when down at idle revs :(

Prof thanks for the response! I\'m afraid in my car the green solenoid is not turbo port related.. :xconfused

I\'m back and hopefully got my hands on a removed hardline assembly for a few mins, so I figured out the pipework lol.

It goes like this:
(http://i1345.photobucket.com/albums/p676/proudbugowner/RX7/solenoids/REALSchematic_zps2baa0db3.jpg)
This is the final, correct layout.

So our green solenoid is for FPR control together with the orange one.. But what does it do?

First of all, does anyone know how a Fuel Pressure Regulator with 2 vac lines work? Should the two lines work as if the diaphragm is placed between them, I may have a clue..

Timmyc you have the dual vac FPR too, how did you deal with it?

Awaiting input..

Well when I was doing my engine I changed everthing to aftermarket rails and fpr and new vac lines throughout, I did away with everything, all solenoids, rats nest etc but ive taken the engine out of the car and im now putting it back to standard so im going to try your routing of vac pipes and solenoids and see what happens, did everything work alright for you?

hi timmy whats happened to ur track fc?

Hey, still got it, had to take the engine out and put it in my daily when the daily engine went pop, i had another engine ready to go into the grey one so will update soon :)