hi just found a company that sells new rotors that have a lower compretion from 9:0:1 down to 8:5:1 for £150 as im looking at building my engine with as newer parts as i can is this worth it?
looking at getting at gt3076r turbo to run about 1.2 bar boost
with mazda full rebuild kit
new or re-polished housings and ether new good second hand or aftermarket rotors.
just wondered if 8:5:1 was worth going over to to lower the stress of the engine or wont it really make much diffrance with that turbo and level of boost
i realise it wont make quite as much power with the lower rotors but at the price thought it would be worth an ask as i can get a second hand rotor for £100 and these are new at £150+vat each.
thanks guys.
Hi Mate,
150 per rotor seems cheep what company is supplying them, do they have a web site
Cheers
That\'s really cheap, especially for new...
Also, a 3076 is pretty tiny for a 13b, no need at all for low compression rotors on only 1.2 bar on one of them. You won\'t make a whole heap of power either. Do they do them in a T3 footprint? If not and you are limited to T25 frame, that makes it even worse!
It\'ll spool like an animal I\'d have thought, but suspect you won\'t make much in excess of 300?
I know NOTHING about turbo\'s though, I\'ll cheerily admit that.
Those rotors will probably be series 4 FC rotors :)
ill see if i can find the link.
yer they make a gt3076r in t3 footprint but i got aftermarket exhaust manifold to go on as well to poen up my options.
yer wat a low spool only want about 350bhp max the 3076r are good for about 550bhp but wanna keep boost levels down a bit for reliability. not that im really bothered as if it needs a rebuild ill just rebuild it.
http://www.rxmotors.co.uk/Low-compression-rotors-1
dont know what this place is like but seem ok
looking at it i think its for the 86 on modle.
3076 maybe good for 550 on a piston motor, but that doesn\'t translate to a rotary. I\'m sure someone will be along soon with some american calculations ripped from RX7Club.
A good friend makes just under 450bhp atf on a 3076 on an SR20. That\'s running about 1.6 bar. I\'d suspect 350 would be very hard on a rotary on less boost than that. I\'d suggest you look at something like a T04e.
Like I say though, I know next to nothing about turbo\'s.
Yer that\'s the prob imo use to Toyota 3sgte engines and 350 from that turbo at that boost is just about doable. Was thinking of a nice gt40 or tdo4.
I think you will be lucky to get much over 340 bhp with the 3076 turbo. It will also run out of puff quite early too
Mmm bigger turbo it is
Quote from: billybobbooth;777378Mmm bigger turbo it is
Winner! :Giggle
gt45r has been ordered.
????
are you sure you have ordered a GT45? Youve gone from something that wouldnt pull the skin off rice pudding to something that will rip out a house?
I hope you are ok with lag, and that you are running some pretty big ports!
Quote from: AtomicRex;777620Youve gone from something that wouldnt pull the skin off rice pudding to something that will rip out a house?
LoL at this :rollin
Hahahahaha, rice pudding XD
Atomic is right about that turbo, a GT45 i mahoosive! just look at the rx3 drag car in the oldschool section, thats a GT45, think you might be cancelling that turbo and getting a GT4094.
or even a 3540.....perfect turbo for most applications I reckon.
sorry its not a 45 its a 35r
hit wrong button
anyways back to the origonal post rather than turbos lol
is it worth looking at low compretion rotors or will stock ones be fine and while im at it is it worth upgrading the apex seals to 3mm or anything like that?
as my plan is to get new/ secondhand rotors and housings prob go new housings have them street ported while there out and then building the engine up so if it goes wrong once its in i can rebuild the engine in my car now and always have a spare and if i never need it i can sell it on.
turbo is a gt3582r .70a/r ball bearing turbo with external wastegate with4 bolt 3" down pipe bolt with t3 size manifold 4 bolt pattern
as my exhaust manifold is a t3 4 bolt pattern
dosnt say if its wet or dry thought but as its a bb turbo im guessing it will be wet.
Low comp rotors are a waste of money for the hp your looking to make.. all your going to do is kill the little torque these motors put out.
You can max out 35r with a stock motor. Trust me on that.
I would have gone for a GT4088...but bought a T88 :D wouldn\'t bother with series 4 rotors unless the engine is already apart
Even if the engine is apart they are a waste of money for his application... There are many high hp motors.. which he isnt building running standard S6 internals. Also a 35r is almost over kill yet a good idea in case you decide to make a little more power. A proper sized rear housing and you can achieve 500whp with proper tuning on stock internals.
In any case.. it your money bro.. if it not assembled properly(with in specs) or tuned properly then all the spending in the world is not going to save the motor.
I will be running stock internals and there are lots of FDs running crazy power with stock internals, the compression ratio will affect the detonation point, but if the engine is mapped properly with the right cooling and fueling, the standard internals are fine unless its a race engine
I was intending on using as many fd parts as i could as its a newer style of motor to the fc. My plan was to use stock internals but as i saw these low comp thought i would ask before i bought stuff. I don\'t want mad power but i know ill get bored of power and will want to up it again at some point hence why i went for the gt35 so its not too mad bit will give nice power.
I plan on using a e-manage ultima and getting rid of the afm as don\'t wanna go with stand aloan as there better but if the map goes wrong you can\'t use the car.
So for the build important going to use new s5 housings with street porting with fd motors and fd apex seals and side seals new oil pump.
But back to the apex seals is it worth going with stock apex seals or upgrading to 3mm seals? I just wanna make sure i get the right stuff before i buy things as i would rather only have to build both engines once.
My bridgeported engine I have in the garage has FD front iron, FC housings, FD rotors/internals/Hayward rotary seals and an FC rear iron so it will bolt right into an FC :)
Sounds sim to what im looking at building except the bridge port.
Wouldn\'t mind bridge porting but its a bit extreme for my use
if you want to be on the safe side, you can run the later 13b motor from the gen t11. I have a few friends that only choose those motors and they are making over close and over 900. Granted they only use them for drag racing.
Again, if you buy a S6 and up block, pull it apart and do some light porting, check clearances to spec and put it back together, with the right tuning you can have a 500hp car all day long.Proven. nothing special needs to be done to the motor.
As in the reason for not getting an Power FC,well I dont agree with it. The problem with getting a properly tuned rx7 is well.. tunability. Im not knocking the e-manage, but for this this I will. If your concern about the map going "bad". you do have the option of saving the map and if you make too many changes that makes the car un-drivable or unstartable, then just reload the save map you have. Simple..
Trust me..stay away from the e-manage. Your better off.
Quote from: m1tch;777995My bridgeported engine I have in the garage has FD front iron, FC housings, FD rotors/internals/Hayward rotary seals and an FC rear iron so it will bolt right into an FC :)
This is similar to my own engine Ive built.
We are running FC housings, FD irons front centre and rears.
Using the West Coast seals
FC low compression rotors, lightened and balanced along with our own modifications to the rotors to improve the porting of the engine.
I have an e-manage ultimate, not the pointless e-manage blue which is basically a megasquirt in a blue box lol
Quote from: Indian;778115if you want to be on the safe side, you can run the later 13b motor from the gen t11. I have a few friends that only choose those motors and they are making over close and over 900. Granted they only use them for drag racing.
Again, if you buy a S6 and up block, pull it apart and do some light porting, check clearances to spec and put it back together, with the right tuning you can have a 500hp car all day long.Proven. nothing special needs to be done to the motor.
As in the reason for not getting an Power FC,well I dont agree with it. The problem with getting a properly tuned rx7 is well.. tunability. Im not knocking the e-manage, but for this this I will. If your concern about the map going "bad". you do have the option of saving the map and if you make too many changes that makes the car un-drivable or unstartable, then just reload the save map you have. Simple..
Trust me..stay away from the e-manage. Your better off.
dosnt the 1990 have the latest t11 engine or is that the enfini engine?
other prob with standaloan is the cost alot more i can get a full kit with injector and ignition harness and car specific harness for £500 i have a e-01 in the garage somewhere so its a worth option for me too.
i do agree that standaloan are better but can also not be as pratical.
use to have a blue emanage and thought it was good but wish i had spent the extra of the ultima.
will these fit into a turbo 2 with the fd housings?
13B RE cosmo engine internals?? £500 seam worth it to me.
turbo t11 90 and up model.
At the end of the day, its your build buddie and only you can say how much you can spend.
I was just under the assumption that if you can spend the extra on rotors, which you will never need for your build (because of your hp goals) then spending on a proper ecu wouldn\'t have been an issue either.
Sorry for making assumptions.
I don\'t mind spending the cost on standalone its just i have a few of the extras to make the ultima just as good.
My budget is what ever it needs to be. I don\'t mind spending money on something that\'s worth spending on. As i will need ne internals just thought 500 on something that is already balanced would be a good idea as i build engines for a living and extra balancing is always a good thing.
Im more of a if it does something practical it will go on if its just for show or something important not really bothered.
Like vented bonnets what\'s the point if it don\'t actually do anything.
well my suggestion is that you dont need the rotors, and your rotors can be up to one letter apart before needing to balance the assembly. If your concern enough I would make sure that you clearance your motor properly and you should be set. Porting is a good option too, you can either clean up your ports or do an actual street port. there are many templates out there, not sure about the port work guys do here to recommend anyone.
Other than that, I would still recommend spending the money on a standalone before spending unnecessary rotors.
just my 0.02cents.
fair enough,
just asking as i wanna rebuild an engine with my engine already in that was all. so ether going to need a second engine or the parts from an engine, as im using new rotor housings.
If this is your first motor build and your experimenting(learning) I would recommend that you try and purchase some good used housing.
Im not trying to put you down or anything but experience as thought me that you want to leave the new new parts until you actually know what your doing. New housings are expensive and you can find great second hand housing for a reasonable price. It can add up in the end and you doubt you want to mess up expensive new housings from novice mistakes.
If your worried, I\'ve seen used housing make big Hp. Just make someone who knows what they are doing check them before you buy.
Hope this helps..
Just make sure the housings are within tolerance, but I mean the higher the RPM in the rotor, the more it pushes the seals out, the better compression you get :)
agree with you to a point m1tch, but remember that high rpm motors suffers "chatter" if the right components aren\'t spec\'d out properly.
That is why you need to decide off the bat what your building, whether a high rpm motor, low boost..etc so you can build accordingly.