Well, my Greddy compressor tube arrived the other day, so yesterday I was extremely lazy and did nothing (due to a 12.75 hour shift the day before). But TODAY I was busy alllll day! This is because I had jobs to do, and a set of loverrrly blanking plates arrived today!
I did an oil change. Always good to do!
I welded up the broken weld in my exhaust, caused by the worst road I\'ve driven along for a LONG time :(
I looked to see if the compressor tube would fit. The answer is no, not with a TMIC. Is this normal, can they only be run with a FMIC? :( :(
So then I set about removing the air pump gubbins and clearing more space in the engine bay! My car spent much of the day like this:
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/DSC00110smaller.jpg)
And I created this space:
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/DSC00112.jpg)
Fitting these! Look at the quality of the plates? You\'d have thought they were from Pineapple Racing or someone, but no. They\'re from a guy up by Solihull who works for a classic car restoration company, and has an FC he\'s trying to do up. If you need any fabrication or work done, let him know! Both me and L18M know him, he\'s a nice guy, and won\'t charge the earth.
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/DSC00116.jpg)
And at the end of the day, the car looked like this:
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/DSC00113.jpg)
But I still have this left over :( Would anyone like to buy it off me, same price I bought it; £40 + postage. So I can buy some DTSS eliminator bushes, which I KNOW I\'ll appreciate more!
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/SAM_1137.jpg)
Still to do:
Rewire fuel pump
Fit braided brake hoses
Bleed clutch
(there\'re actually lots more things on the list, but they\'re the asap ones)
I have a compression tube with a TMIC, BUT you will need a different pipe to the intercooler as the angle is different and the inlet is MASSIVLY different (note size and angle difference)
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l49/m1tch_2006/DSC00038smaller.jpg)
I got mine when I fitted my uprated top mount, which I used different pipes for.
I\'d bite your hand off if I had the cash spare!!
I do love your fc though man :)
Yeah, I saw that Mitch, I had taken the TMIC off and held it there thinking - there\'s no way that\'ll fit! The n/s TMIC bracket is in the way too, obviously it could just be suspended off the o/s bracket though.
It\'s a hell of a different pipe layout though, it\'s almost straight towards the wing, rather that rising behind the TMIC! If I DON\'T sell it then I\'ll save it till I get an uprated TMIC or FMIC.
Is it worth doing any throttle body work? Knife edging the butterfly\'s, and removing the secondary ones?
Thanks Ben. It\'s nice to have a fan! Can\'t wait for yours to arrive so you can get started!
Quote from: papercutout;775535Yeah, I saw that Mitch, I had taken the TMIC off and held it there thinking - there\'s no way that\'ll fit! The n/s TMIC bracket is in the way too, obviously it could just be suspended off the o/s bracket though.
It\'s a hell of a different pipe layout though, it\'s almost straight towards the wing, rather that rising behind the TMIC! If I DON\'T sell it then I\'ll save it till I get an uprated TMIC or FMIC.
Is it worth doing any throttle body work? Knife edging the butterfly\'s, and removing the secondary ones?
Thanks Ben. It\'s nice to have a fan! Can\'t wait for yours to arrive so you can get started!
Its a big performance increase in throttle response over stock already, please also note that you will need to cut a bit out of the engine hoist bracket to fit the sensor - not the best design by Greddy!
Im keeping mine all stock, I did have an inlet off Hayward rotary that had the secondary butterflies wired open, there really isn\'t that much area the edge of the butterflies take up, plus the secondaries stop the engine being over-revved when cold, which is fine by me!
My top mount might be up for sale soon, although im pretty sure someone already had dibs on it lol
Also, your car is awesome as its an FC on steelies :D I was going to get some off the shelf 15x10 steelies, but needed quite a few body mods to fit them :(
Quote from: papercutout;775535Can\'t wait for yours to arrive so you can get started!
You can\'t wait!!!!
The suspense is literally killing me!!!!!
QuoteMy top mount might be up for sale soon, although im pretty sure someone already had dibs on it lol
If you\'ve still got me as first dibs mate then cross me off the list. I got an ARC in the end :)
Oh Papercutout, Thats an FD sensor thats screwed into the tube. Must have come off a car with an Apexi PFC or summet.
There you go then, its up for grabs soonish :D
To fit the compression tube with TMIC, you need:
1) to cut the passenger side intercooler bracket - you have to cut about half of it off - I think Mitch has some piccies of what he did - probably also find some in my rebuild thread.
2) You\'ll need an ARC intercooler, HKS intercooler or a modified stock one with exit in the centre on the passenger side.
3) a 90 degree reducer - 76 to whatever you\'re intercooler needs.
Otherwise it will fit with Front or V-Mount intercoolers.
Wahey! Does that give me first dibs then Mitch? ;)
Sensor should be easy to sort - unscrew that one, stick the standard one in, in its place, no?
Thanks for that Prof. Nothing too challenging then? :p Did you get my message in another thread regarding roof/door?
Increased throttle response will be once I get my lightened flywheel fitted! Obviously I need to sort out my boost issue between now and then too :p
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/RX7013.jpg)
Quote from: papercutout;775582Thanks for that Prof. Nothing too challenging then? :p Did you get my message in another thread regarding roof/door?
I did - will get you some numbers soonly - still trying to prep mine for MOT - had a nightmare couple of weeks....
Indeed, you have first dibs on it then lol if plan B for my intercooling goes through then it will be free quite soon :)
Don\'t forget I also have a massive V mount core and radtec rad up for sale!
Hi,
I\'m in Solihull and its always handy to have the No. of anyone who does good work could you post up his details.
Thanks
Hiya mate, his number is 07988474033 and he\'s called Mike.
He does have some tuning bits for sale atm that I\'m about to put up in the for sale section atm. He\'s got a ported turbo and a flowed and ported throttle body.
Thanks Mitch. I just don\'t have that kind of money atm!
And thanks Prof. That\'s the problem with a new car, you\'ve done everything to your old one and know if like the back of your hand, but the new one is a mystery! Hope you sort it all OK!
I\'m going to confess once again my love for your FC, if i can get the front end of mine to look a bit like yours i\'ll be one happy man!!
:god
QuoteSensor should be easy to sort - unscrew that one, stick the standard one in, in its place, no?
I\'d leave it alone tbh. The FC sensor is 1/4 bsp iirc and the FD is M10 X 1.5 or 1.25. So you\'d have to fill the hole and re-tap it.
Quote from: papercutout;775637And thanks Prof. That\'s the problem with a new car, you\'ve done everything to your old one and know if like the back of your hand, but the new one is a mystery! Hope you sort it all OK!
Alas it is the old one that\'s been giving me grief - It needed some items done for MOT - and I\'ve hit all the usual problems again, plus some unexpected....
Still - fingers crossed - getting a temporary single exit exhaust on it tonight, and MOT tomorrow.
Quote from: BenRX;775871I\'m going to confess once again my love for your FC, if i can get the front end of mine to look a bit like yours i\'ll be one happy man!!
:god
Seriously mate, it\'s easy. Take a mixture of a hacksaw, an angle grinder (I found I got straighter cuts with the grinder than the saw) and some files to it. I cut with a cutting disc, then used a grinding disc to shape the cut curves slightly, then filed them to a roughly reasonable shape.
Prof, why\'re you MOT\'ing the old one, when you\'re about to strip and break it? Surely that\'s throwing money down the pan?
Thanks Tiddles, didn\'t know that. I\'ll figure out some wiring trickery when it comes round to it then! Some skinny spade connectors maybe.
Quote from: papercutout;776062Prof, why\'re you MOT\'ing the old one, when you\'re about to strip and break it? Surely that\'s throwing money down the pan?
The red one is a long way off ready - needs a complete strip down - then wire brush / waxoyl the underneath - needs a couple of bits of patching / welding under there.
All the work I\'ve done on my front suspension - that\'s all getting transferred over to the red car.
And the back suspension I\'ll do on the red car - including an LSD in the diff.
The red one will get a new/reworked wiring loom with some extra wires in - saves trying to run them later.
So hopefully very little wasted ;)
Quote from: papercutout;776062Seriously mate, it\'s easy. Take a mixture of a hacksaw, an angle grinder (I found I got straighter cuts with the grinder than the saw) and some files to it. I cut with a cutting disc, then used a grinding disc to shape the cut curves slightly, then filed them to a roughly reasonable shape.
I have absolubltly no confidence in myself when attempting butcher the front end of my lovely RX7 :(
Plus how will the poor girl feel, had her shipped in a dark box accross the Med now she\'s been sat in a dusty port in the hot sunshine with no love for the best part of 2 months. Imagine if i then get the angle grinder out on her, she\'ll hate me forever!
Maybe i\'ll let things blow over and leave it to a proffesional - if they have them in Cyprus :confused:
Aaah, I didn\'t realise the red one would take so long Prof! When you said \'in better nick than your present one\', I thought it really was, and not a \'will be\'!
And a few wires removed I hope, these FC\'s have so many extra\'s that aren\'t needed!
Car\'s like having their look improved, so don\'t hesitate mate! A little surgery is fine on something already plastic! They have some in Greece itself, there\'s a lot of rubbish there, but also some totally savage cars!
HaHa, you want to see some of the \'tuned\' cars in Cyprus man. Its worse than the saxo\'s and corsa\'s in the UK! But again there are some nice exotic stuff out here as well as quite a few Evo\'s, i see 4 pretty nice FD\'s on a regular basis, saw a very sexy S15 last night... It was very sexy as well!!
I\'ll take a look at whats involved once i\'ve actually got the car then see if i can pluck up the courage to do it myself or find a \'reccomended\' bodyshop and see how much it is for someone proffesional to do it.
I can imagine mate.
Anyway ladies and gents, some feedback. Since removing the air pump and gubbins, turbo whistle has pretty much gone. Guess it was a boost leak then.
BUUUUUT, I\'ve been gradually winding my MBC back in to try to up the boost from 0.4 bar and it\'s made no difference. This morning I wound it all the way in and still 0.4 bar on the way to work.
WHY?! And what\'s wrong/how do I get more? 0.4 is getting boring.
Quote from: papercutout;777363I can imagine mate.
Anyway ladies and gents, some feedback. Since removing the air pump and gubbins, turbo whistle has pretty much gone. Guess it was a boost leak then.
BUUUUUT, I\'ve been gradually winding my MBC back in to try to up the boost from 0.4 bar and it\'s made no difference. This morning I wound it all the way in and still 0.4 bar on the way to work.
WHY?! And what\'s wrong/how do I get more? 0.4 is getting boring.
What air intake and exhaust are you running on it?
I get 7.5 (0.5 BAR) psi max with my muffler in, and close on 13 (0.8 BAR) with it out - that\'s a big difference just changing the end of the zorst !
2.5" downpipe, straight through to the backboxes. Admittedly the backboxes are fairly large, but DtheB used to run the exhaust, and I\'m sure he got more than 0.4 bar. Plus, before I put the actuator arm on it hit 0.6 bar. See piccy for exhaust.
HKS mushroom filter.
(http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/3d_cutout/My%20RX7/rexrear.jpg)
Bump this up to get some more answers. I\'m still running 0.4 bar, and got annihilated by my mate in a gen1 Focus RS. NEEEEED to beat him!
not sure how much boost i ran, the stock boost gauge used to go a bit funny at full boost though. When i ported the wastegate and put a single exit on it ran less boost. With that setup it made 230 bhp i believe and felt slower than it did when i ran the exhuast you\'ve got now!
sorry this is off topic but papercutout i walked by your car in the campsite at awesomefest and it looks cool as :D
Quote from: Timmyc;779930sorry this is off topic but papercutout i walked by your car in the campsite at awesomefest and it looks cool as :D
I didn\'t, but i know it looks cool as :mmmm
Its an FC, it has popups, so of course its as cool as :D
Paper doesn\'t pop his lights though remember ;)
I don\'t need to any more! Although I will for MOT\'s, just so they\'re definitely properly aligned.
Thanks Timmy, LOTS of people had a gander on the way past, I wonder which one you were? :p
Quote from: B.Martin;779963Paper doesn\'t pop his lights though remember ;)
Indeed, they are too awesome to be bothered to move :)
Agree\'d! :Giggle
Back to topic. Anyone any idea\'s why I cannot get past 0.4 bar boost? This is only the stock level of boost, and so is pretty frustrating.
i know its rough but try removing the vacum hose that runs to the actuator and drive the boost should go mental if this doesnt happen you have a problem with your actuator or wastegate stuck open possibly
otherwise you have a big bad boost leak possibly but im sure you would have heard it
Right, did this today. I know it\'s taken a while, but I\'m working stupid shifts etc atm.
Off came the pipe, and voila, boost! Well, upto 0.45/0.5 and boost cut or whatever the effing thing is doing again.
Does that mean that my MBC is only rated to reallllly low boost, and I need a stronger spring? (and that I probably need an FCD/different aftermarket ECU, as I guess the R-magic one is foobarred :( )
Does it hold at 0.5bar? Have you checked for a split in the MAP sensor vac line? Also, where are you getting the vac from on the MBC?
No, it burrrrrrs, like hitting a limiter. It won\'t CUT the fuel in a big cut, but it stops pulling and feels horrible. I don\'t want to do it much as I don\'t have an AFR gauge and it\'s probably damaging my engine.
See this page for how it\'s plumbed in: And which pipe in the MAP sensor vac line?)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71135&page=2
MAP sensor is on the left hand side of the engine next to the air filter, it is a small black box with a plug and a hose going into it.
The clicking might be the OEM boost solinoid clicking away, the boost solinoids are known to go on the FDs but not on FCs that much, at what RPM does it stop pulling?
It doesn\'t click. (where\'d you get that from?) The burrr is really odd, but definitely wrong.
I\'ll check the MAP sensor pipe in the morning.
RPM depends, it\'s as soon as it hits that level of boost - so generally 2700rpm or so, when it hits what should be full boost.
Quote from: Prof;775579To fit the compression tube with TMIC, you need:
1) to cut the passenger side intercooler bracket - you have to cut about half of it off - I think Mitch has some piccies of what he did - probably also find some in my rebuild thread.
2) You\'ll need an ARC intercooler, HKS intercooler or a modified stock one with exit in the centre on the passenger side.
3) a 90 degree reducer - 76 to whatever you\'re intercooler needs.
Otherwise it will fit with Front or V-Mount intercoolers.
I know its unholy thread revival...
But, i am hoping to get mine fitted this weekend i have a few questions before i get stuck in.
The first relates to the intercooler bracket that needs cutting, i don\'t remember seeing one on mine when i took my stock top mount off last week? Could you shed some more light on this?
The second is that if i remember correctly there are 2 small hoses on the top left corner of the stock cooler, what do i do with these as the ARC doesn\'t seem to have a connection for these hoses. (They are very small)
Finally, there is a hole on the front of my ARC, it has a thread in it. Apparently it is for a bracket that ARC originally sold with the intercooler, but i don\'t have one and apparently it was pointless anyway. I beleive it is 10mm wide, i am okay to just plug this with a 10mm bolt and a washer right? Anyone else got this on theirs?
Thanks :Thumbs-up
Its not the intercooler bracket that needs cutting, its the engine hoist bracket, I have a photo somewhere I will post up :)
Im not sure where those go to on your setup but I know I have one on my ARC.
I have that on mine, plug it off, use it for water injection at a later date :D
Yeah if you can show me that pic please, also of anyone else can shed some light on the 2 hoses that connect (or don\'t in this case) to the top left of the intercooler.
Just to clarify its these 2 that you can see below that plug into the back of the stock IC, that I\'m not sure about? A thin and a thicker one.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/553e4d53.jpg)
This is we\'re the thicker one plumbs into.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/cda581ea.jpg)
Thanks
Anyone? Really wanted to try and get this fitted today :(
That top thick one is for the accerated warmup solenoid. If your intercooler doesn\'t have any pipes, then you can block this hose off - don\'t leave it open or you\'ll have a bad vac leak on a cold engine.
The other hose goes around the back to the air bypass solenoid which is on the back of the throttle body - again it can be blanked off.
Both of these are operated by solenoids which work together - they allow extra air to pass into the engine on first startup, causing ther revving round to nearly 4000 rpm for 1 minute when the engine is cold - stupid system !
So if I plug both of these then that annoying cold start won\'t kick in? :D
Quote from: B.Martin;815509So if I plug both of these then that annoying cold start won\'t kick in? :D
You can always manually disable the engine wrecking cold start by putting the clutch down and putting the gearbox into first.
Oh yeah I know that, I was just wondering that\'s all :)
Quote from: B.Martin;815511Oh yeah I know that, I was just wondering that\'s all :)
It won\'t do it anymore - you\'re right ;)
Oh okay great, do you happen to know if I can block said hose off at the source with one of with one of those fancy silicone bungs?
bung either end is fine, obviously you can remove the AWS solenoid on top of the manifold if you block it off upstream of it.
Wow wow wow, your talking to me now prof! Remove the aws what? Could you provide pictures about this or is there something on fc3spro I can follow? Is it an easy job and do I need a blanking plate? Is it worth while or would you just block of the 2 spare hoses and be done with it?
Sorry for all the questions, I like to be fully prepared before I start a job as unexpected obstructions can lead to rather large headaches for someone such as myself :Giggle
As always I do appreciate the help you offer me :)
A little info on the AWS / ASV setup.
Mazda thought it was a good idea to help warm up the cat in the exhaust to rev the engine when first started - rev it to nearly 4000 RPM !
This is a really bad idea !
Most if not all of the stock 2nd Gen cars ECU\'s have a mechanism for defeating this antisocial behavior on a per start basis, put the car in gear and hold the clutch down (the gear selector switch and clutch switch are sampled by the ECU), this stops it doing the \'acclerated warmup (where AWS - Accelerated Warmup Solenoid - comes from).
There are actually 2 solenoids that get involved in this system, and elecrtically they are operated together. The AWS solenoid sits on top of the manifold - its just visible at the bottom of your last picture - the thing with the blue/black wires attached - hose comes from the manifold, into the solenoid and then into the intercooler. It\'s purpose is to feed the extra air that causes the revving when you start up cold.
Here\'s a pic of the AWS and it\'s plumbing, before I took mine off:
http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40676&d=1220286704
And this pic with it elmintated - used a bleed valve from a rad to block up the whole in the ARC intercooler ;) - can use that for pressure testing, Water injection or whatever in future...
http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=41085&d=1222117001
The ASV - Air Supply Valve, is the 2nd solenoid - you\'ll find it on the back of the throttle body. It\'s bolted onto the throttle body and covers a small hole that feeds the plenum chamber, the exit of the valve is on top of the throttle body, which is where the other hose that goes into the intercooler connects to. You get 2 choices here - you can leave the solenoid in place and blank off the top pipe, or you can make a blanking plate for where the solenoid used to go and just remove it - it\'s only 2 bolts.
Picture here :
http://mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40537&d=1219875087
All of the chipped ECU\'s I\'ve tested eliminate this warmup system completely - making the solenoids redundant.
Hope that lot helps you decide....
Wow, now that\'s some information there! I\'ll get the some block off hose caps for the pipes in question and then I\'ll look into removing the stuff at a later date, I do want to remove them, I want to remove everything that I don\'t need at some point! But I don\'t know anyone who can make a block off plate and after a brief look yesterday I can\'t see them on banzai racing or pineapple either, I\'m really quite a pain I like to make sure I has everything I need before starting a task and I like to do things properly the first time. I\'m also a \'clean engine bay\' freak, although mine currenty is far from that I want to make sure the smart bits are done as I go along, meaning colour coded hoses, hose caps, nice blanking plates, brand new hose clips etc.
Thanks so much for that info it\'s really helpful, it\'s an idea to start making some of these massively informative posts by you sticky\'s or st least putting them in the FAQ section.
Cheers Prof :god
When removing the AWS, do i also need to remove the BAC? Is the blocking plate for the BAC the same as the AWS? Is there an off the shelf AWS blocking plate, also... What is the \'split air\' blocking plate for?
As you can probably tell its confusing me.
Me personally - I\'d keep the BAC valve.
It\'s important for idle on a stock ECU, and it also compensates for power steering and electrical loads (lights, fogs, rear window defrost, aircon, heater blower)
Okay thats fine, so the BAC is seperate from the AWS then. IS there a blanking plate available for the AWS, i thought maybe this \'split air\' blocking plate might be it. Thanks yet again Prof.
Quote from: B.Martin;816072Okay thats fine, so the BAC is seperate from the AWS then. IS there a blanking plate available for the AWS, i thought maybe this \'split air\' blocking plate might be it. Thanks yet again Prof.
The AWS solenoid is the one that\'s on top of the engine - you can just remove that and cap the pipe end coming out of the manifold. The ASV is the valve I think you are talking about - the one on the back of the throttle body. For that I just cut a blank off out of some thickish aluminium and put some hylomar or RTV gasket stuff on it before bolting it up. You only need to block the hole that goes into the manifold, the other smaller hole just goes to the pipe on top of the throttle body, so that will become just a useless pipe after blocking it off.
Okay then, thanks.
So this is the one i block off at the bottom where the hose plugs in.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/553e4d53.jpg)
And mean this thing at the bottom of the pic that the hose connects to, is that the AWS?
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/cda581ea.jpg) (http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc23/BenNova/cda581ea.jpg)
yep - last pic is the AWS. one of the hoses goes to the intercooler, the other goes onto the upper manifold - that\'s the one you need to cap off.
Then...
The other one - first pic - depends on whether you remove the solenoid on the back of the throttle body or just want to block off the pipe.
You can either:
Remove the solenoid and block off
OR
keep the solenoid and just cap off where the hose went to the intercooler.
When i
eventually make it back to the UK, you must let me buy you at least one pint.
:god
Edit - I don\'t suppose this is the block off plate for the AWS is it?
Apparently its called \'split air\'
QuoteSplit Air Valve to Catalytic Converter
(http://www.2751engineering.com/cart/ccdata/images/smallMain_10_99.jpg)
This is Timmy\'s LIM showing the blanking plates - im also running the same but have kept the BAC so I can tweek the idle.
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/Timmy125/IMG-20111203-00049.jpg)
Yeah I emailed banzai to check apparently they don\'t do a blanking plate for the aws, not an issue I\'ll measure the hoses and get some plug/bungs for them. Appreciate all the help, thanks.
if you need those exact plates i made mine myself and i still have the templates i made
I\'ve got a banzai racing air pump bop kit, it was just the aws I was unsure of. Thanks mate.