Simple really guys.......how hard is it to perform an engine rebuild on a twin turbo RX7?
Cheers
Mike
I don\'t know, but I know you can get a DVD with a step by step guide, might be one on eBay too? Someone will know more than me!!
Engine consists of a few plates, pair of rotors, 2 housings and lots of long bolts with some seals, the main issue with rebuilds is working out which bits you can reuse or not
Rebuilds with a bit of knowledge aren\'t hard to do, as has been said there are instructional DVD\'s etc, and looking at a fully dismantled engine there really aren\'t that many parts to it, but as Mitch said it\'s the knowledge and experience, and eye to spot which things can be re-used and which things are toast - mostly it\'s just very time consuming
Depends on your experience TBH - there\'s nothing overly hard in the actual build per-se, just some fiddly parts etc.
GO GO GO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQm7HP6IOhI
Seeing how many seem to break within 10,000 miles of being rebuilt I\'d suggest it must be harder than it looks !
Depends where you took it ;)
i have rebuilt impreza sti engines and rotor engines in the past, and the rotor in my eyes was much easier, but that prob because i didnt use any old parts.
altho the tips were the most nerve racking part lol
Quote from: adarmo;774886Seeing how many seem to break within 10,000 miles of being rebuilt I\'d suggest it must be harder than it looks !
Which ones are those? mine on 89k with compressions of 7.2 on the front, 6.9s on the rear, they only fail if you don\'t look after them, also less moving parts to go wrong!
I\'m just about to rebuild my fd engine :) never tried it before, but armed with the dvds, a full rebuild kit from atkins :) my housings and rotors look ok but ill be taking them to someone that knows to make sure they\'re not screwed :) machine shop to make sure they\'re totally flat and get them ported :)
My thread is over on driftworks, ill post up a million pics and vids of it :)
Quote from: - Fezcat -;774932I\'m just about to rebuild my fd engine :) never tried it before, but armed with the dvds, a full rebuild kit from atkins :) my housings and rotors look ok but ill be taking them to someone that knows to make sure they\'re not screwed :) machine shop to make sure they\'re totally flat and get them ported :)
My thread is over on driftworks, ill post up a million pics and vids of it :)
yer def keep us posted dude :)
I would say it depends on why you need to do a rebuild?
If it\'s a apex seal gone...it\'s going to have damaged the housing possibly iron plates and even a turbo or 2, if it\'s a water seal gone... Then perhaps easy... But depends on if it went due to a simple over heat , time... Or dreaded water seal Chanel corrosion which means new housing and plates possibly!
Now if it\'s just low compression but running all hunky dory then yes should be an easy rebuild with many parts able to be reused!
However the majority of people wait till it\'s broke broke which by then the damage is done!
Yes I am a newbie but done a fair bit of reading on all this due to my pending engine rebuild mayhem myself...
Rob
Mines had a coolant seail failure, all the apex seals were in good order and both housings seemed to be too. although they have marks on the inside, there is nothing you can feel with a finger (scoring etc) Both rotors in good order, and the area where the coolant seal has failed hasnt corroded through :)
Ive taken it all apart and labelled it all, the engine parts are going to an engine shop to ensure they area ll 100% flat surfaces and to be chemically cleaned.
Just bought the atkins rebuild kit (should be here soon :) ) My turbo\'s are in good order, though I do keep looking at a single longingly lol (not sure why)
Im aiming for a budget home made rebuild without skipping any steps to hopefully build an engine that will last 15k+ miles :) experience though is everything
Also the housings and the plates all have a nitrate hardening process which can not be done by any machine shop! They cannot be milled down till they are flat! As they will score and damage which will lead to lots of lots of blue smoke and another expensive engine rebuild!
If anyone wants to correct any of my points raised here, please feel free
Were All here to help each other
Rob
Oops double post lol silly iPhone
Which rebuild kit did you buy fezcat?
The atkins master one - im taking the plates etc to one of the rotary rebuilders to have whatever it is done to them :) not just any machine shop lol
Side plates can be lapped flat.
Nitriding can be done if needed.
Main thing about a rebuild is have the right tools for the job, measure twice and fit once, and clean everything really well.
If anything is damaged just don\'t reuse it.
There is alot of stuff on the DVD\'s that is unnecessary in my opinion,but experince shows you that only.
Regards
Carl
Thanks Guys.......i never expected as many replies so thank you very much.
All i can make out is that the engine runs fine no problems at all. However if im being honest i can only make it approx 40-45 miles before the buzzer comes on to top up the coolant. So it def leaking. I just dont want to keep using it and let it go bang!
However at the same time i just dont have the bucks to get the thing rebuilt by a professional. That would be the best way but i do have a lot of friends who are mechanically minded and a good friend of mine has his own ramp and crane lift. So i have the tools to do the job im just worried about what i might find when i take the thing to pieces lol.
Cheers
Mike
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/148137-fezcats-pussywagon-project-rx7.html
Thats where Ive got to so far dude :) This be my project thread!
Quote from: adarmo;774886Seeing how many seem to break within 10,000 miles of being rebuilt I\'d suggest it must be harder than it looks !
That could be down to ancillaries or mapping to be honest - if you don\'t fix an external problem that exists, no amount of engine rebuilding experience is going to protect the engine from that. :Nono!
I echo what Carl said - clean and measure clean and measure - no part can be too clean - you have to clean it all thoroughly and measure it - even if it ends up being toast as far as reuse is concerned.
Invest in good feeler gauges, some dental scribes, a flat metal ruler or straight edge and an engineering micrometer to measure run out - and lots of time - lots of time !!
PS - Don\'t rebuild one outside in Winter - your fingers will stick to the housings ;)
Well i guess theres only one way to find out. Im hoping to start it this week. Then see what sort of condition the engine is in.
i have the DIY.RE-13B rebuild dvds, if anyone whats a copy let me know and i will happily send you some :)
I have the Atkins rotary video, looks REALLY easy with the right engine stand :)
What engine stand would you reccommend?
Quote from: - Fezcat -;775247What engine stand would you reccommend?
You can get an engine stand adaptor specifically for the engine, there might be someone on here who you could borrow it from
Its one of these:
http://www.pineappleracing.com/rotaryenginestandadaptor-1.aspx
Jamison1982 i might take you up on that offer for the dvd. I need one to see what to do after the engine removal.
I just hope that all of the internals are ok as i dont want to spend a huge fortune on it. Im going to post up pictures shortly in a new thread so keep a look out. I think it looks great so far but with TLC will be even better.
Quote from: Mikey22;775260Jamison1982 i might take you up on that offer for the dvd. I need one to see what to do after the engine removal.
I just hope that all of the internals are ok as i dont want to spend a huge fortune on it. Im going to post up pictures shortly in a new thread so keep a look out. I think it looks great so far but with TLC will be even better.
If you need replacement housings etc then I believe Tim @ RX motors has about a million lol its why im really careful with my engine(s) as I don\'t want to take out a tip as it would take out the housing and the rotor
ok i know this is a little off topic but i have to ask as cant find anything in the search or FAQ\'s.
I think im being a lil retarded here but how do you upload pics? lol
link from photobucket mate
use the [img] [ /img]
Code from photobucket :)
Photobucket? lol
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=photobucket
Quote from: - Fezcat -;775280http://lmgtfy.com/?q=photobucket
thats awsome lol
Quote from: - Fezcat -;775247What engine stand would you reccommend?
The engines quite light, so most engine stands will cope with the weight - you want one that allows you to lock the engine off at different rotations, and you\'ll need an adaptor plate as Mitch said - that bolts to the front housing and then has 4 slots that allow any standard engine stand to bolt up. The engine stand must be capable of allowing the front iron to be placed horizontally.
You can see the adaptor in use with a cheapish Sealy engine stand :)
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46417&d=1267794587
(Picture from my engine rebuild thread)
mikey22, can you wait until I returned from abroad.
look at your own country man, that\'s me( 3 hoor drive frae yoor hoose) and I can do for you but will cost you few pounds to do it right with my experice(sp) from basic build to race proved engines
don\'t carried your engine around the uk,looking for a adviced,video etccc.
it\'ll take you long to rebuild yourself with your bar- zero experice(sp).
you\'ll learn as you go like me from 20+years knowelge from know nothing to easy to rebuild today, that\'s experice(sp)knowelge and put it right at first time..
you must removed your engine and sent it to me if you like and I\'ll stripped it down along full inspection, cleaning, reconidion apex seals/rotorhousing if reqiured and rebuild it back.
I\'m not putting pressure on you as it\'s a free country and you can think whatever you want which to suit you.
good luck and sorry,my engklish\'s crap.
Quote from: - Fezcat -;775247What engine stand would you reccommend?
i made one when i did my rebuild, used a plate of 6mm steel drilled some holes job done.
sean