I\'m completely new to rotary engines so go easy on me :D The car is a 2000 type rb which I believe is around 260 bhp standard. I would like to get it to around 320 bhp safely.
with piston engines it seems to be a case if opening everything up. Exhaust , intake manifold ect is this the same with a rotary ? If so do you need it remapped so that air to fuel ratios are ok ? Is the standard ecu ok to get tuned or do you need to get a apexi ? On a piston engine these mods tho help don\'t do a lot for you hp gain. With the fd can you simply turn the turbos up ?
Is it worth playing with the twins Or is it better to save up the cash and get one single ?
I know its a lot of questions with a lot of variables, but thought I would ask to get general idea. But just want to get the basics sorted 1st.
Thanks Ryan
all you will need is an apexi ecu, decat exhaust and induction kit and you should see that safely without having to modify the fuel system
Cooling! Coolingcoolingcooling!
New Radiator, and a good service IMHO.
Oil, plugs, fillters (including fuel) etc.
320 is easy on twins, and not really stressing them at all. You\'ll need filters, decat, cat back exhaust, aftermarket management. I\'d also recommend a frontpipe for faster spool, and uprated intercooler (with duct) to keep the temps down.
This should see you comfortably in that power range, and with a map, will make a lovely, lovely car to drive, with masses of low end punch :)
I\'d also rewire the fuel pump with a direct feed from the battery (via a relay) for reliability in the fuel delivery department.
Yes, these engines are very sensitive to fuelling and temperature, so pretty much any I/H/E mod will require a remap - you can\'t map stock ECUs on Japanese cars, so you\'ll need a Power FC or something else (but these are the most popular and widely-tuned). Make sure you get the right one for your car - earlier ones won\'t work, the ECUs became 16-bit in 1996 (I think) and there are five or six models of PFC for the FD.
You will also be able to up the boost on your twins, 320bhp is feasible with an uprated (front or V-mount, stock mount struggles with intake temperatures in my experience) intercooler, filter and a decent de-catted exhaust. The guys with much more knowledge on here than me will be able to tell you if you can get away with stock fuelling at that level, certainly more than that will require an uprated fuel pump from what I\'ve read.
My first Rex had larger injectors and better fuel pump. Decat and apexi ecu mapped to 300 safely not sure what standard twins can take psi wise but a single can take alot more. My current one is on .8 bar-411bhp and 560bhp on 1.2 bar.
You need to have a remap with apexi bud. As can\'t get standard one mapped. (might be wrong)
Has your car had any work done to it?
you need some overnight parts from Japan!
No mate it has absolutely no modifications of yet. I havnt even got it yet :D the deposit is paid on it just need to sell my car and go collect it. I\'m mainly curious for my own knowledge at the moment.
I would imagine the 1st modification would be suspension. Then would start on basic more power mods. But I won\'t be in any rush I am sure going from
My Honda to this I will be more than happy for a while :D
At the moment just trying to understand as much as possible.
So would you need the car remapped everytime you do anything :D
Cheers guys
depends on what you do bud, if new fuel injectors yes!! - changing plugs no hehehehe
should always have remap after a major mod :), best off getting all the bits you want then taking it to hayward rotary of reworx for remap, or afr tunning in horsham they do the remaps for super sevens.
yer youy should get coilovers, the standard ones are pants lol if you go over a 100mph the front feels like its going to take off lol
so you got any pics of your new car :)
Quote from: jackaleks;772577you need some overnight parts from Japan!
:rollin:rollin
Don\'t forget money
lol true lol
My \'97 is just shy of 320 at the flywheel with the following modifications:
Blitz intake
GReddy elbow
decat
Kakimoto back box
Power FC ECU
The car is mapped to 0.8bar and rarely goes beyond 80% injector duty. Temps on the road stay very stable, though I expect on the track this could become a problem.
The GReddy elbow is probably not giving much benefit power wise (was already on the car), but really this is the bare minimum needed to get the kind of power you want.
yeh a decent set of coilovers will deffinatly be first on my list. but then will proberbly look at geting hold of everthing and doing it in one go to save tuning costs.
nice to know i can get a good amount of power out of the twins rather than going down the single route.
and as soon as i pick it up i will upload pics and try to get a few meets and annoy some people with my proberbly quite simple questions. :D
but we all have to learn sometime
thanks for the replys guys
your welcome, look forward to seeing it, so when are you getting it?
Don\'t jump on fitting coilovers before you give the OEM setup a good chance. It\'s really pretty good on some of the models. The Bilstein equipped cars are over damped on the compression circuit and waaaay too tight IMO (but I appear to be the only one that thinks this - some rave about them for some reason) - I\'d spend money on polybushing the car long before fitting coilovers.
The standard setup really isn\'t \'pants\' - there\'s a good reason the FD has a reputation for rather lovely handling.