Just been experimenting a bit... it involves an intake trumpet, some black metal grill, some zipties, some jubilee clips/tamtorque, some dryer ducting (the silver flexible tube stuff), and a 110x52mm to 100mm rectangle to circle air duct adapter... i will post up pics tomorrow hopefully, this is just to get you wondering...
Sounds good to me, will be good to see pictures :)
Kinda of like what they show on solomiata for MX5 DIY intakes?
(http://www.solomiata.com/images/KTDuct.jpg)
Its easiest to just route something via the drivers side brake duct
When i eventually get my TII, i\'ve consivered splicing into the orignal air intake from the underneath and feeding cold air from one of the bumper vents into it, then sealing it with silicone or the like. That way the stock airbox is retained, but it is uprated. Not sure sure if it will work as i can\'t remember how much space is available around the stock air intake due to the fan and covering. I like to dream things though and i dare say if its possible its already been done...
Also considered a B&M style enclosed airbox, but i imagine getting that to work could be some fun due to the AFM although as i say i can\'t really remember how its all set up and my old FC was an EGI anyway :p
Ok, basically, you take the stock air intake off (only the first bit) leaving the smaller flexible bit inbeteeen the box and the mouthed piece.
Get the 110x52mm to 100mm air duct adapter and shimmy the rectangular end into the flexible bit of the stock box, get the end of the flexible air ducting on the circle end as such...
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Skifledanabit/c37da59e.jpg)
The problem is that you\'ll have to lose your bonnet strut, but I\'m sure you can think of something else to prop it up with.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Skifledanabit/57a0ab2b.jpg)
Run the tube down the offside of the coolant expansion tank after taking out the shrouding.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Skifledanabit/8052f1e9.jpg)
You will get some crushing when you shut the bonnet but its not so much that it affects air flow too much.
Cut out the section of cross bar of your bumper closest to the offside between the uprights, ziptie an appropriate section of mesh on the inside after cutting out a hole for the trumpet.
If you want to, get a bit of extra mesh to put over the inside of the trumpet to stop stones flying in and putting holes in your ducting, I just cut a square out and hammered it into shape around the exit of the trumpet then electrical taped it on.
Next, you will need to crush the mouth of your ducting to fit the exit of your trumpet and clip it on.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/Skifledanabit/c7620c04.jpg)
that\'s about it I think, in hindsight, I wouldn\'t of cut the crossbar of bumper out, but it depends how much unimpeded air you want through your box.
Top work :Thumbs-up
It\'s only experimentation, a lot of thinking what if, then just saying screw it and bite the bullet, I\'ve still got the original intake to put on if there are any problems.
That should give you a mild supercharger effect
I doubt it, its not a direct flow, plus its still going through the original air box, so I doubt it will really make that much of a difference if i\'m honest
Ok, this is bloody useless, don\'t do it, if you do, I suggest having either a smaller rad, or cut the body where you\'d run an FMIC or just stick stock
Quote from: Skifledanabit;770233Ok, this is bloody useless, don\'t do it, if you do, I suggest having either a smaller rad, or cut the body where you\'d run an FMIC or just stick stock
Trial and error Skif\' trial and error.
I\'m seriously considering seeing if i butcher a B&M CDA or DIA kit to fit and work properly (when i finally get the car of course :Hammer) but its good that you\'ve admitted defeat.
I once heard a wise man learns from his own mistake... A wiser man learns from others mistakes as well :Laugh
I know you\'ve not made any mistakes, but you get the drift.
I admit it was a mistake yeah, but I\'ve got a spare bonnet, a metal cutter and a plan, fabricate a scoop, remove as much of the bonnet above the air filter as possible without cutting the bonnet crossmember, cut some of the central area of the filter box lid out as necessary, get some grill over the hole to stop big bits getting in and see if that does any better.
I can\'t forsee any issues that will arise with that, but my ears are open.
Sounds good to me, but air is cooler the lower you go ;)
I\'m wondering if you can\'t find cold air underneath the air box - heading down below and to the side of the radiator. Perhaps your ally snorkel may work there. The down side is you are on the wrong side of the airbox as far as the filter is concerned - but perhaps that is the limiting factor ;)
Could turn the air box over as a whole unit? Pretty sure the bolt pattern is the same.
Why don\'t you remove the air relief tank in the drivers side wing and route a pipe from the drivers side brake duct up though a hole in the inner wing and into the air box?
Quote from: m1tch;770406Why don\'t you remove the air relief tank in the drivers side wing and route a pipe from the drivers side brake duct up though a hole in the inner wing and into the air box?
I was looking at how easy that would be to do - you\'d have to remove the dip-dim resistor (it\'s not worth keeping to be honest) and also relocate the fuel pump resistor/relay bracket, and the washer bottle is in the way too, but could be relocated - it\'s not a bad idea....
Im probably going to sort a cold air intake for the T88, probably just run it out of the bonnet :D