Well its about time my RX7 deserved an oil change. already ordered a HKS oil filter so just need oil, is there any oil that you guys reccomend? Also how much is needed? Where is the sump? Is there a sump?
Also where in the car do you fill up the oil because there are so many screw tops everywhere i dont know which one it is? If someone can point this out for me that would be great :)
I would be able to provide you guys with a pic of my engine if it helps?
Thanks :WaveBye
(http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo206/Matt_Bellamy_2008/IMG_0313.jpg)
Matt - there are FDUKIN hundreds of threads and post about oil / changing the oil... the search button is your friend ;)
On this occasion, I\'ll direct you...... 5W-30 mineral oil - cheapy cheapy is fine ;)
Of course there\'s a sump! and the drain nut is on it ;)
Fill up via the oil filler neck - directly in front of the throttle body ;)
...and cancel the order on the ridiculously overpriced oil filter, and just use Halfords/Fram/AN Other.
Oil cap is on the passenger side of the engine, just behind the strut brace.
Or even a Mazda OE one. They are only £6.05+VAT!
Thanks for the help guys! I should have really searched on the forum i didnt realise im still new to this..
Looks to me like you have a nice red HKS oil filler cap :-)
Use 10/40 mineral oil not 5/30.
Regards
Carl
Hi Ows - Yes you are right its a genuine HKS oil filler cap, i have gone for the HKS oil filter aswell just to match haha!
Hi Carl - Thanks mate i will go for that oil, i was told it would be better using mineral oil rather than semi synthetic. Do i need about 4.5 litres of the stuff i presume?
Also Carl im not too sure whether you are aware that my RX7 is having a bit of a boost problem when accelerating as it gets a bit jittery if you put your foot down, if you gently ease on the acceleration she seems to be run fine but the pull doesnt come until much later (like a delay) the helpful guys on here presume its down to a boost solenoid failure. Im having it in WGT on 25th June and they said they would need to dyno her (im a little worried about this as i read RX7\'s dont like the dyno) do you think thgis may be the problem? If you need any more info just ask! Your expertise is always welcomed mate. :)
Matt, the lad who sold you the car has only just changed the oil so i wouldn\'t rush to much to do it. He used Halfords mineral oil if you need to top up :Thumbs-up
Dave.
I agree with not bothering with the overpriced oil filter, I have a generic oil filter on the car, it won\'t be on there for many miles (usually change oil every 3-5k miles) also look for a \'fumoto oil drain valve\' which is basically a tap for the sump, it replaces the sump bolt and means that I don\'t even need to jack my car up to change the oil, just put the container under, reach under, open the tap, drain oil, close tap, refil and replace oil filter :) don\'t even bother with gloves as theres no mess
(http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/images/fumotovalve.jpg)
Thanks Mitch, I\'m gonna have to get one of these, same all that messing around. Where did you buy it?
Quote from: m1tch;768394I agree with not bothering with the overpriced oil filter, I have a generic oil filter on the car, it won\'t be on there for many miles (usually change oil every 3-5k miles) also look for a \'fumoto oil drain valve\' which is basically a tap for the sump, it replaces the sump bolt and means that I don\'t even need to jack my car up to change the oil, just put the container under, reach under, open the tap, drain oil, close tap, refil and replace oil filter :) don\'t even bother with gloves as theres no mess
(http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/images/fumotovalve.jpg)
I got mine from the states as they were hard to get when I bought mine, it seems you need an F-106 (you can see other options - some have an extended nozzle)
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=160
I just have a regular one on my FC, not sure if the sump is different on an FD though.
I would check ebay, as there might be more in the UK now
Hey Dave, i saw what you have wrote about the previous owner has already changed the oil.. when i inspected the oil it was completely black and looks like it had only been topped up not a full oil change. I have opted to do the oil and the filter and sparkplugs myself that way i know they are definitely done (just for peace of mind) I stil cant find those damn blasted sparkplugs though, i found one but no sign of the others..found everything else though lol. does anyone have a photo of where they are please?
Quote from: matthewbellamy;768743Hey Dave, i saw what you have wrote about the previous owner has already changed the oil.. when i inspected the oil it was completely black and looks like it had only been topped up not a full oil change. I have opted to do the oil and the filter and sparkplugs myself that way i know they are definitely done (just for peace of mind) I stil cant find those damn blasted sparkplugs though, i found one but no sign of the others..found everything else though lol. does anyone have a photo of where they are please?
As in you can\'t find replacement plugs (mazda rotary parts) or you can\'t physically find the spark plugs on the engine? All 4 are on the passenger side of the engine, can be quite tricky to get to - they are on my FC as I have a massive ABS pump in the way lol perhaps just trace the HT leads down?
Hi Mitch, yep i cannot find them physically, i went out to the car and i looked under the bonnet p/s and i can only find one....its just started raining now...typical lol
The plugs are in a row on the passenger side of the engine. There are two quite close about a third of the way down, and the other two are close, another third under that. I found that they are a total pain to get proper access to unless you know exactly where to look. If you can, it might be worth trying to do it from underneith
Thanks Dehs :) Ill give it a go this weekend, i got some Champion ones to put in (ebay, brand new for like under a tenner for a set of 4 woop!!)
are you sure they are the right ones, if they only cost you a tenner for 4?
No worries matt, and yeah, a tenner sounds a little cheap to me, but idk?
i got the link here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280690190432&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
They look legit to me... he has plenty of feedback for other spark-plug sales, and if they are old stock, it would explain the price... would probably be beneficial if someone with knowledge of these plugs were able to post...
RX7 plugs are NGK and are about £8 each, I wouldn\'t want electrodes pointing inside the rotor housing!
M1tch could it be potentially bad if i use these??
They aren\'t the right plugs. Turbo engines get a lot hotter inside the combustion chamber than N/A engines.
If you need to save money buy NGK BUR9EQ instead of BUR9EQP.
Mitch you beat me to it, I got side tracked.
Note the end of the plugs - nothing to get in the way of the spinning rotor or to fall into the housing!
(http://www.dragtimes.com/images-classifieds-large/RX7-FD3S-NGK-PLATINUM-SPARK-PLUGS-BUR7EQP-BUR9EQP-SET-for-sale_370486940895.jpg)
Ah well back on ebay they go lol..infact would i be able to get my money back as he mis-sold me them as for RX7 and they arent?
I have seen one set of RX7 plugs that did have electrodes, which are the HKS iridium ones which seem to have a pertruding electrode, but I wouldn\'t want to run it, its why the plugs are expensive