Hello fellow mrc\'ers :InLove,
Not sure whats going on really, the car runs great starts hot or cold but when its first started either morning or after work it takes a good 10-15 minutes of steady driving before i can boost.
If i try when its still cold the best explanation i can give is it sounds abit like a machine gun and huge loss of power until i ease off the throttle, drives fine off boost and when its warmed up all is good?
When im wot in 1st and 2nd afr\'s are 9.9-11.7, 14.9 on cruise.
Boosts to 12psi creeping to 15 in 5th but only creeps in 5th.
engine mods are,
wally fuel pump
apexi safc
knightsports chipped ecu
3.5 inch tub back
k&n panel filter
Any help muchly appreciated :)
When the engine is cold (not fully warmed up) it will inject more fuel into the combustion. if your afr is 9.9 to 11.7 when boosting when the car is warm i will suggest tuning the SAFC to bring it up to 12. As well the heat range of the spark plug does have some effect as well. i used to use 9\'s all around and the TII is quite rough at idling when its cold. I have never tried boosting it when cold so not sure if it will do the machine gun thing. so may be give the plugs a clean and if you are using all 9\'s then switch the leading to 7\'s may help.
hope it helps :)
Louis
Also 14.9 is a very high AFR in general - I thought it was about 14.7 that det occurs? (certainly with a piston engine)
Have you ported the turbo wastegate btw? Just wondering. Sounds like the fuel is cutting when cold?
yeah 9\'s all round only done a few hundred miles but ill take them out for a gander i expect they are pretty black! my idle is good a bit high at 900-1k, safc says tps is 0.85-0.95v not tried setting it with a multi meter yet, ill try adjusting the fuel map tommorow see what difference it makes, if nothing else at least its keeping me from boosting a cold engine :o
The 14.9 is only when im cruising which i thought was safe and good for fuel economy?
Wasegate is ported...not as well as i would have liked cos i used a dremmel and couldnt get as deep into the holes as i wanted but expanded them right upto the flapper.
So ill try tweaking the fuel but its not easy doing it while driving or i should see how much my local rolling road costs cos its only a few miles away.
Thanks guys given me something to think about anyway :Thumbs-up
I mapped my friends S14A in one night. both 0.8 and 1.1 bar. get a mate to drive for you and you do the tweaking while monitoring the afr each run. i plugged my LC-1 to a laptop where i can record the afr which helps a bit. save some rolling road cost :)
How did you mapped yours? I went for around 14.7 for LOW THR and 12.5 for HI THR. 30% low and 70% hi.
Im the same 70-30 but my high throttle i was going for 11\'s but im too rich in the 9\'s. I stood on my laptop and fducked it so i cant do anything with that.
what fuel do use?
I filled up with bp ultimate and it felt and sounded better, weird how different fuel can make it sound better, my last fill up i had to put regular unleaded in cos the only garage that sells 91 is about 30 miles away, the engine note changed immediatly. Gonna fill up with ultimate and then attempt changing the hi map on a quiet road!
Wish me luck! :Thumbs-up
That sounds like it\'s taking too long to warmup - maybe the wax pellet on the throttle body isn\'t working properley.
As for the machine gun sound - doesn\'t sound right - you may have one or more sensors acting up and it\'s possible you\'ve got some error codes if you scan them.
Is it taking 15 mins before the temp gauge registers mid way?
As for AFR\'s - sound very rich when cold - probably fuel pump did that, it should run about mid 12 to 13 when warm on idle, dropping when you accelerate - probably into the 11\'s.
On cruise (1500-3000 rpm with no load) it should hit 14.7 +/- 0.3 as the stock lambda should pull it in to stoich, it will go higher when you lift off, but that\'s fine as you should be getting complete or partial fuel cut.
So it seems i deffo need to adjust my high throttle map, afr\'s are 12-13 on idle but drops to 9.9 as soon as you mash the loud pedal, it gets to 11 by the time i get to 3rd gear
I think it takes about 10 mins to reach halfway on the stock gauge and my other temp gauge doesnt go higher than 70-80 degrees ever.
I need to go get fuel today so ill take a pen and paper and try get a bit more info on the numbers.
Ive never tried to pull codes so thats something i need to read up on, can i use my tps test lights for getting codes?
Thanks for the help chaps love you all :InLove
SORTED!! all i needed to do was take acouple of % from the high throttle map it was 21% and moved it to 18% and its fine now, even feels like i got a bit more power leaning it out a touch aswell. Think i still need a bit more adjustment higher in the rev range as power seems to drop off between 4-5k revs, i need a helper though cos its a ball ache trying to skip through the safc screens drive and adjust it at a specific rev range!
Thanks guys im now a happy bunny :burnout
Quote from: 1990_fc3s_t2;758552SORTED!! all i needed to do was take acouple of % from the high throttle map it was 21% and moved it to 18% and its fine now, even feels like i got a bit more power leaning it out a touch aswell. Think i still need a bit more adjustment higher in the rev range as power seems to drop off between 4-5k revs, i need a helper though cos its a ball ache trying to skip through the safc screens drive and adjust it at a specific rev range!
Thanks guys im now a happy bunny :burnout
Don\'t lean it out too much - if you have the stock lambda still in the car, then I\'d leave the fuel map alone between 1500 and 3000 rpm. At the peak torque point you want to make sure it doesn\'t run lean - ideally it should be in the 11\'s there, and it can lean out a little towards higher revs, but not too much - maybe 1/2 a point tops.
It will feel more powerful as you go leaner, but you are also going to be eating into your safety margin.
I do still have the stock lambda sensor but im still running rich at 10.2 instead of 9.9 on boost so still more to come off.
I think my power increase was the bp ultimate and taking out the tips from the exhaust....im loving the noise!
I blew the cigar lighter fuse with my iphone dock because it fell apart at the end an earthed on the metal case which in turn took out my wideband, this was while i was at work and i was a bit concerned about the sensor not being heated but i got home and fitted a new fuse and it all works as it did before, so no drama after all. :rollin
How long are wideband sensors expected to last?
:InLove
Quote from: 1990_fc3s_t2;758816I do still have the stock lambda sensor but im still running rich at 10.2 instead of 9.9 on boost so still more to come off.
I think my power increase was the bp ultimate and taking out the tips from the exhaust....im loving the noise!
I blew the cigar lighter fuse with my iphone dock because it fell apart at the end an earthed on the metal case which in turn took out my wideband, this was while i was at work and i was a bit concerned about the sensor not being heated but i got home and fitted a new fuse and it all works as it did before, so no drama after all. :rollin
How long are wideband sensors expected to last?
:InLove
um... personally I will not map the SAFC with the stock lamda sensor. the stock narrow band is not accurate at all ae. was your wideband innovate? they have warranty so you can change for a new one if yours was bought recently.
the sensor are pretty fragile if you dont treat them correctly. i went through 2 of them in 6 months.. :Giggle
Just read my other post back, I was meaning to answer prof about me still having the stock lambda sensor but I was getting my results through the lc1 ;)
My problem now well it\'s not really a problem but more annoying is my coilovers make driving round town a nightmare, the potholes are insanely big and it\'s just plain uncomfortable, out of town and main roads are fine though.
I might try adjusting my rears as they sit a fair bit lower than the fronts and look a bit odd, I need a new jack aswell as mines leaking an rather dangerous seen a sexy looking low entry on eBay, I\'m on iPhone so can\'t link it but it\'s made by arcon or arcan an is about £100. It looks way better than the clark lightweight jacks I\'ve seen. :)
Im running the OEM narrowband and a Bosch wideband together in my downpipe, OEM ECU is happy as it gets readings, im happy as I get readings :)
Mine is at 14.7 on cruise which is fine, mine also goes off the scale rich on boost but thats due to the fuel pump lol
Going by everyone I\'ve spoken to, either the nice Sealey ones or this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Liftmaster-Multifunction-Entry-Profile-Trolley/dp/B002QO3W7Q
Don\'t go aluminium unless the weight is mega important, the cheap (£100 or so) ones go wrong regularly.
I have just installed the SAFC today and went out mapping it with my frd. As I\'m running 880 on secondary mine is around +40% to lean it to 14.7 on the LOW THR. When I went on to the HI map I boosted the car once to 6k. After the boost the ecu wouldn\'t let me go into secondary throttle after 4000 rpm . I tried disconnect the battery but this problem still happens. Is this the ecu went into limp mode?
Also is it common for the knock sensor to fail? Mine is reading 0 knock all the time...
Cheers
Louis
Quote from: yiug412;759629Also is it common for the knock sensor to fail? Mine is reading 0 knock all the time...
Cheers
Louis
Knock is very transient - the knock sensor is just a tuned microphone, so what you see if you look at the output on a scope is just some waveform when you hit the block with a hammer to simulate a knock. If you do this whilst the engine is running, you can actually see it retard ignition timing - which is all the stock ecu does with it.
If you connected a voltmeter to the knock input to the ECU - you\'d just see 0v most of the time.