ive just emptied the rad to be confronted with this: :( the car had been stood for 2 years before i bought it.
(http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm166/goia13/DSC01366.jpg)
ive yet to empty the block, thought id write this in the hope for a reply by the time ive emptied that to.
i know you are only to use de-ionised water but is it safe to just flush it thru with a normal water thru a hose pipe, just to try and wash some of the ....e away??? and whats the best way to do this, just let the water run thru the fill cap attatched to the water pump??
any help much appreciated:3gears-rh
right, ive flushed it thru with hose water, i thoulght it couldnt be anyworse than the gunk which was in there.
next problem, how the hell are you supposed to get the air locks out without taking the standard airbox out??? i can not get to any rad pipes, or am i missing a trick?
i would like to thank everyone for their help !
it just goes to show how good the sxoc is.
I\'m sure someone can help, i will be looking to know myself at some point too. Only ever done it on the drifter and it\'s a non standerd setup so not much help to you. I\'m sure a good run/rev would force the air to the top of the pump
Fill up the system the best you can from the main filler neck. Next take off the water hose at the back of the trottle body and using a funnel fill it up from the hose till the water flows out of the throttle body evenly. That way you should be sure to have the back of the engine filled up. Run the engine for a bit to get pressure and when it coolled down check the level again and top up if necessary
Adam
Quote from: Ada7;756728Fill up the system the best you can from the main filler neck. Next take off the water hose at the back of the trottle body and using a funnel fill it up from the hose till the water flows out of the throttle body evenly. That way you should be sure to have the back of the engine filled up. Run the engine for a bit to get pressure and when it coolled down check the level again and top up if necessary
Adam
thanks mate, ive put 6ltrs in there now thru the filler neck.
when i did a search i read about taking the hose off to the throttle body, but mine seemed stuck solid and dint want to risk splitting it.
i think ive got a lot of air out now, ive run the car to normal temp with heaters on hot and it didnt over heat, i left the cap off the main filler and its spilling a kind of white froth, no air bubbles coming thru. what does that imply? when i let it cool, the main filler still had water about 2inches from the top, the ast tank had a little water near the bottom.
any input appreciated:Thumbs-up
any info on the foaming?
Quote from: Simaroon;756903any info on the foaming?
Car has rabies
Quote from: PDale;756918Car has rabies
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
thanks for the help :Hammer
Quote from: Simaroon;756922hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
I thought it was quite funny as well
Anyhoo, how long did you leave the cap off for? You only leave the cap off for a short time until it gets a bit warm and then put it back on. If the coolant system isn\'t pressurized(sp) i.e no filler cap when it gets near boiling point it will find the path of least resistance which is out the filler neck.
Next time you go out to your car, fill the coolant to the top and then top up your air separation tank to halfway. Leave the cap off the water filler neck next to the alternator and run car for approx a minute or so (even better if you have a water temp gauge in which case let it get to late 80s) and then replace cap. Take car for a run, bring some coolant with you just in case. When you get back, let car cool down and check water levels again as described earlier and top up if necessary. Rinse and repeat until water level doesn\'t drop.
The throttle body hose tip as mentioned by someone else is a good method as it cuts down time on faffing around bleeding the coolant system of air. If its a bit stubborn, gently pry the hose off using a flat blade screwdriver near the edge of the hose. Once you have the edge lifted you can be a bit more gentle on the hose stuck further in and if necessary trim the edge of the hose if you manage to split it with the screwdriver. Obviously only do this when the engine is cold. :Thumbs-up
thanks mate, really appreciate that write up there.
yeh, i left the filler cap off for about 5mins hoping the engine would warm and let any air trapped to still bubble out, maybe the foaming was just the heat of the water, i could see it steaming, its worrying how hot everything gets on these cars. i panic every time i start it :)
the car is sorn at the mo, so cant take it for a drive, i will however leave it run for a while on the drive tomorrow with the cap back on.thanks again mate.
No probs, yeah the foaming would be the coolant getting hot and will just spew out the filler neck. When you replace the cap when the car is running, get the car up to full operating temperature so the thermostat opens, heater on full blast (which you\'ve been doing already) and give it some revs to get the water pump working a bit. Doing this will get the air to the top of the system so you can just top up the coolant when the engine cools down.
Once you\'ve done a coolant change the first time and got it sussed, each time after that is much more straight forward although still tedious at times!
yeh, everything is new to me with this fd, and i dont really understand the coolling system on it yet.
ive had nissans for the last 5 years, they are a lot more simple and less worrying.
i would of thought more people would input on this.
unless its been covered so many times already and someone not used the search button?? lol
best thing to do is when you fill up with water, and its full then \'burp\' the system.
1) fill coolant to top
2) leave cap off
3) stuck an upside down cola bottle (1l or 1.5l etc) with the bottom cut out so you can pour more water into it (you need to leave the cap off the cola bottle)
4) run engine to about 85 degrees (i cant remember how warm the fd should be but the thermostat will open allowing air out
5) once you see air coming out fill with more water until it stabilizes
6) turn off engine and let cool.
7) repeat 2 more times just to make sure no more air comes out.
while you have the cola bottle in place you can see if a lot of air is coming out. it it fizzes like a glass of champers then you in trouble and means water seal is gone.
hope this helps :)
The bottle technique works on every car. Here it is demonstrated on a nissan. The only difference will be that on the FD you\'ll have to wait for the coolant to cool back down for the level in the bottle to go down again, as you can\'t just let it flow into the overflow tank, unless you\'ve done the AST delete mod...
http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/126934-bleeding-nissan.html
another quick point to make, the FD has two coolant drain points. One is on the bottom of the radiatior, the other is on the bottom of the block itself (kinda near the oil sump drain).
If you have a load of minging coolant trapped there you will keep seeing the dirty colour until it\'s diluted enough.
HTH
graeme
thanks for the latest 3 replies, i have searched a lot, and spent hours looking around the forum, its not just a lazy \'how to\' thread. its what i cant find answers for.
ill try the bottle technique now, altho i think a lot of air is out at the moment.
i think i may have to drain it again tho has i used de-ionised water not distilled. from what i have found thru searches on here, distilled should be used.
another thing was that the water drained was very gunky, i put a hose in the filler cap to flush thru and it worked lovely and ended up with clear water coming from the rad, how can i flush the block tho, no water was coming from there when i had the hose in, only from the rad. when i plugged the rad back up, it just spille dover where i was filling it, i couldnt get it to flush thru the block. any input into this.
Is this for an FD?
Quote from: Bobbit;757114Is this for an FD?
yes it is....
Coolio, My advice when doing the coolant (which i\'m doing again this weekend) is to drain and flush like you have, then using de-ionised water (it\'s been cleaned so i\'m happy) to fill through the middle cap till it\'s full.
But it\'s not full yet, look down from the fill point towards the front of the car to the left slightly and you\'ll see a large softish pipe leading to the rad, give it a squeeze with the cap still off and you\'ll get bubble rising up if you look into the hole, then the level will drop further down than before, repeat untill the water level drops a few inches and then top up with coolant, repeat this process until the level does not drop and you are not getting any more bubbles. Drive the car for a few days, then check the levels and top up using the same method, repeat until you are happy.
Forgot to mention there is a drain point on the engine block, if you go underneath the car and on the drivers side you can just make it out, i\'ll have a dig and see if I can find any pics for you
thats more or less exactly how i have done it mate.
how do you flush the block tho, i know there must still be crap in there, (just by how filthy the rad was), how do you go about flushing the block?
Here you go bud http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/flush.htm
Drain bolt is on passenger side just above the oil sump directly in line with the dipstick tube. There is a tapped hole to the right of it with nothing in. It is only a smallish bolt head, something like 12mm. Crush washer should be ok to re-use.
De-ionised water is good to use, it has all the impurities removed from it so it wont attack the aluminium.
To flush the block, your best bet is to drain the radiator and block, put hoses back on and bolt back in block. Fill system with regular water from hose (wont do any damage as you will be emptying it in no time) Run car up to temp for 5-10 mins, let it cool down and drain system. Keep doing this until it runs clear from the block. The heat of the water should clean out your radiator even more as well.
The bottle technique works, but I personally find it a ballache waiting for the system to cool down so the water goes back down out of the bottle. I prefer the throttle body hose technique myself but everyone has their own preferences.
thanks mate, i have already drained the block so know where that is thanks.
i should have checked how to flush it properly before filling it with coolant really, thats a waste now. will drain it tomorrow again tho and do as you just suggested with starting the engine and letting the water circulate, i should have thought of that really.
i will also check out that link now. thanks again,