Hi everyone,
As some of you know I have bought FlickstRR\'s BP engine, its an FC block with I believe FD rotors, but the main thing is that the front of it its running the FD alt, water pump and pullys etc, I don\'t know believe the AST is included with the engine so I would like to know what my options are, are there any aftermarket options for the AST? its not something I have on my FC so its a new thing to cause problems/leak lol
You can see the AST here (I believe its an AST as I don\'t have that in my FC:
(http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/tt166/FlikstRR/Japshow%202009/P1010230.jpg)
What are the options for it and what do I need to look for about it, I have heard that they have issues if the cap leaks lol
Hopefully someone much smarter then me will be able to confirm what i say as true but i belive you can remove the AST from the cooling system i believe there is a how to guide on here somewhere,
iv read that a few of the high powered ones on here have done it so im guessing it isnt damaging
I dont know the benifits of doing this or any downfalls so hopefully someone will be bale to tell you more
Hope this helps a little
Kris
Thanks for your input, I have found this guide here:
http://www.fd3s.net/coolant_tank_elimination.html
But I need to check if I can do it as I also have that V mount setup, so might not be able to block everything off etc, also at the bottom of that guide it seems pretty split with if its a good idea of not.
You need to get hold of a Gen2 filler neck and then bget the pressure cap to fit on top of it (you can get this from Clive at Mazda rotary parts)
Then link up the pipe from the filler neck to the over flow tank
Adam
Hmm might have a spare one laying around on the old rad :)
Or if you want to keep it you can get a nice shiny aftermarket one to replace the eezee-split Mazda timebomb placcy one. WGT do their own proprietary alloy AST http://www.wgtautodevelopments.co.uk/ for a similar price to importing one from Amemiya or similar (which is what I did before I realised there was someone in the UK already doing them). Never open the AST to check levels or anything, always use the cap on the filler neck and try to keep it upright and so it\'s slightly lower than the fille rneck if you do keep it.
Lovely looking engine bay btw, are you sure it\'s an FC block with just FD rotors? Most of the ancilliaries (and the plenum, waterpump etc) look like FD, surely the obvious conclusion would be that it\'s an FD lump straight transplant?
Thats not my engine bay, thats Phils lol the engine I is FC housings, FD rotors but then it has FD waterpump/pulley/alt due to the FD alt being more powerful. You can just about see the FC/FD intake LIM/UIM adaptor on it.
Im getting rid of the mechanical PSP and going with an electric one as well :)
i\'ve got a WGT one, it looks pretty good and does something.
i don\'t think anyone has ever managed to prove that they help with temperatures or really have an effect one way or the other.
I think that the comments on the guide I posted said something about air bubbles etc which I guess would be seperated out with the AST, I might go with an AST though, it won\'t be until I get the engine in next year though, there should be lots more room in the FC engine bay anyway.
Does the FD have an expansion tank AND an AST? if it doesn\'t then I could just locate it in the front bumper where the OEM FC expansion tank is :)
Keep the mechanical pump for the mo if I were you, not really liking my leccy one ATM :/
I was looking at a Davis Craig pump, but as the engine has an FD pump on the front I will keep it as is at the moment, do they have any weak points?