Hey, Im just putting this out there to see what power i should be roughly expecting from the following setup-
-Blitz air filter
-3\'\' turbo back
-Re Amemiya ECU
-Massive FMIC
-No emission\'s
-Electric fan
-Walbro fuel pump
-Blitz Bov
-Boost 0.9 bar
-Engine 6.5 bar compression across both rotors
-100 ron fuel
Would 300bhp be abit optimistic? :)
On another note has anyone uprated their oil pressure? Ive read a tuning guide which states that uprating the oil pressure on higher power levels is advised? Cheers!
You maybe around the 300 mark. I\'d have a guess at just under though. Only because the ECU isn\'t mapped for your car specifically. The stock turbo and injectors are maxed out around the 300 mark aswell so they will be on the limit remember. Im aiming for around 300 with much the same set up as you except Im gonna be running an Apexi PFC and my intercooler is a ARC top mount.
Ade
no emissions ????????? from an rx7 id say your engine is off bud there fore none lol
you\'ll most likely need to port the waste gate with that exhaust
and how are you controlling boost?
300 should be do able, id look at uprating the rad also
Quote from: dthebuk;737071you\'ll most likely need to port the waste gate with that exhaust
and how are you controlling boost?
300 should be do able, id look at uprating the rad also
Good point right there. I ported mine a while ago (seem to remember you asking about it). Can\'t remember if you did it or not though. My boost controller just about held the boost back untill I put my ARC intercooler on. Now it just hit overboost in most gears depnding on the outside tempreture. Im driving off boost atm and hopeing that when I finally install my PFC it\'ll help the situation.
yea ported mine, what an absolute ball ache that was. If you don\'t wanna do it, it is possible to run a leaky BOV. This means the turbo will be producing the extra boost, but it won\'t see you\'re engine, so effectively you can run 0.9 bar in the engine with the turbo at a bit more. It doesn\'t sound ideal, but getting that turbo off was a nightmare on my car!
When i finally get my new injectors ill shall get the car remapped as like u say the ecu isnt personal to the car. Can u remap a chipped ecu? Id just like to keep my standard ecu for MOT\'s.
She\'s running a bigger rad now so all being well should keep her cool!
My boost is litterally at the mercey of my standard wastegate so spiking to around 0.9 bar atm lol.
With my new FMIC i assume the overboosting will be worse now? I was trying to put off taking the turbo off till next winter :)
So what size injectors should i look to be running for say a safe 300bhp? ive heard u can run standard primarys and bigger secondarys? In the end im looking for around 400bhp but thats a way off yet.
You can put a restriction in the exhaust or the intake to help control boost spikes - a freer flowing intercooler may well make it worse, but the usual culprits are free exhaust and intakes, it should only be seen as a stop gap until you can port your wastegate.
The turbo off isn\'t too bad - you can get to the bolts between turbo and manifold mostly from underneath - 4 all told, and you\'ve got oil feed (which can be undone at the coupling in front of the lower inlet manifold), oil return - get that from underneath - 2 bolts. Then you\'ve water feed - 2x10mm near the split air outlet near the bulkhead, and the water return - jubilee or spring clip on the hose behind water pump.
Get some wobble bars and extensions and some stubby spanners - you\'ll be well away :)
As for remapping the ecu - it\'s technically possible - as long as the chipped ecu is socketed it\'s just a question of swapping the chip out for another - but finding one with the correct mapping might be a challenge. I\'d stear well clear of the ebay special.
Maxed out the stock 550\'s will see you to about 315 bhp give or take (depends on fuel pressure), but you\'ll be running them into the 90% plus, which isn\'t good - ideally you want no more than 85% duty - easiest way is to just change the secondaries for bigger - but you\'ll need either a standalone ecu or piggy back fuel controller to do this (there is also the rtek chips, but currently these only work on Series 4 ECU\'s - so no good for euro/jap cars).
I use an emanage ultimage and 800cc secondaries - and also run about 2-3 psi more pressure on the FPR - just keeps things nice and safe. On my hybrid turbo with stock injectors I made 318 at the fly (10 psi boost) not had a dyno run at higher boost since I changed the secondaries, but it made 315 with these on and similar boost (weak actuator - hence I had to take turbo off ;) )
If you\'re going to be running that much power and dont change the injectors, which isn\'t (really) needed. Make sure you change both fuel filters and maybe check the injectors before you do it
I must admit im a complete noob when it comes to things like ecu\'s, so is it not possible to just upgrade the seondaries to say 800cc and get a decent remap? Or do i really need a fuel computer to fine tune the fuel delivery?
At the end of the day id rather have a reliable 300bhp with a decent amount of headroom on things like fuelling capabilities so that i can enjoy the car with a fairly decent power level without worrying about it craping itself every time it comes on boost lol.
Im allso worried how long my standard 20 yr old turbo last on around 0.9bar :)
Ive just changed both fuel filters incluing the in tank primary filter so all being well there should be enough fuel getting through:)
On my standard injectors what would you say would be a safe boost level to run at with enough headroom on things like detenation etc? 0.8 bar?
Well I\'ve known of people running 1.1 bar with just an FCD with no problems.
The way chipped ecu\'s work (i think), Is someone will map a car using something like a power FC and then copy the map onto some sort of chip which can be plugged in the standard ecu. If you are able to put software on the chips and have the right software to read and write them, i guess you could look at you\'re chip and then change the map on it. The problem is you can\'t do this when the car is running which would be a problem.
If you just keep on top of the maintenance it\'ll be fine
Quote from: dthebuk;737184Well I\'ve known of people running 1.1 bar with just an FCD with no problems.
The way chipped ecu\'s work (i think), Is someone will map a car using something like a power FC and then copy the map onto some sort of chip which can be plugged in the standard ecu. If you are able to put software on the chips and have the right software to read and write them, i guess you could look at you\'re chip and then change the map on it. The problem is you can\'t do this when the car is running which would be a problem.
If you just keep on top of the maintenance it\'ll be fine
It will actually be mapped using a copy of the ROM chip in the standard ECU - someone will copy this to a PC, then plug in a thing called an Eprom Emulator (this takes the place of the ROM chip, but can be written to by the PC) - the tables in the copy of the ROM are then altered during tuning, and then when it\'s all finalised, the new ROM chip is written, which can then be popped back in the ECU.
The code in these tables is specifically written to work with that ECU, so using MAPS from a powerFC won\'t work for instance.
Quote from: Prof;737187It will actually be mapped using a copy of the ROM chip in the standard ECU - someone will copy this to a PC, then plug in a thing called an Eprom Emulator (this takes the place of the ROM chip, but can be written to by the PC) - the tables in the copy of the ROM are then altered during tuning, and then when it\'s all finalised, the new ROM chip is written, which can then be popped back in the ECU.
The code in these tables is specifically written to work with that ECU, so using MAPS from a powerFC won\'t work for instance.
aha thats how its done. So these chips are mapped with the car running then? You just need to know how to map and the software etc? Did you do yours yourself?
Quote from: dthebuk;737206aha thats how its done. So these chips are mapped with the car running then? You just need to know how to map and the software etc? Did you do yours yourself?
I\'ve a chipped ECU as a starting point (Blitz chip), and I\'ve mapped the emanage Ultimate for secondary injectors, ignition timing tweaks around higher boost and mapped for airflow changes (the stock afm stops doing anything signal wise after 12 psi, so all the fuelling past that must be done on the MAP sensor). The emanage makes this easier that starting from scratch, as you have the ecu as a base map, and you make add or cut to fuel and timing as you need. I\'m a way off getting it finished yet, but it\'s driveable as an everyday car, not too uneconomical (for a rotary) and will hit 12 psi (limited until I get a dyno session sorted) on WOT quite nicely.
The good thing is that with a decent AFR gauge, and the logging in the emanage, you can see what\'s going on as you tune - start rich and tweak it a bit at a time, logging to an excel spreadsheet, go for a drive, check the logs, make adjustment, go for a drive - and you just keep doing that for each part of the map (idle, light acceleration, low speeds, cruising, hard acceleration, WOT).
The maps in the chipped ECU\'s are quite good for power, giving close to 300bhp with stock injectors and free flowing exhaust and intake. The only down side is the injectos run 90% plus on full throttle. The blitz chip also retards ignition and shifts mapping over to the stock MAP sensor if you top 12 psi. Mitch has the 4beat ROM, so once we\'ve done a run on his we can see if it does the same. You can assume that the chipped ECU\'s are good to about 0.9-1.0 BAR tops.
Cool well from what your saying ill go for larger injectors for the year then look to get a apexi fc or emanage unit when funds allow then get decent map sorted out on a rolling road.
The main thing i was concered about was the injectors as you say are now running close to 90% duty cycle which is abit concerning!
So have any of you uprated your oil pressure?
If you put larger injectors in without some way of mapping them, you\'ll bog the engine everytime the secondaries stage.
It\'s best to get the emanage / Apexi PowerFC in first, then change injectors.
As for Oil pressure - for light to medium mods it should be fine as is, but you can get a replacement regulator (Mazdatrix or Racing Beat) or shim the existing one - although that looks a little dodgy to me. If you\'re working from an engine build, you can make sure all the oil system is fully functional and flushed clean before you put it back together.