still trying to get my EGI finished and back on the road and have a few questions:
Air pump removal, I removed mine and the air control valve on the driver side of the engine and put a blanking plate were the air control vale was now it refuses to idle... spent 2 hours with a timing gun, multi meter and screwdriver to no avail... does it need the air control valve? I also didn\'t blank the pipe into the exhaust manifold (assumed this wasn\'t needed as I have blanked the pipe into the cat). i am at a point were i am wondering if its easier to put the air pump system back on without it feeding the cat...
I also lost the saucer shape "check valve" from behind the air control valve (think it was in the door card of my volvo when i sold it :() is this needed without the air control valve?
I am also looking to simplify the whole car (already done the interior wiring ect) what vac pipes ect are not needed? does anyone have a definitive guide?
Also if i was to run pre-mix does anyone have a guide as to what i can remove?
Looking to get the car sorted asap then sort the paint next year when its warmer.
It\'s so long ago I had an EGI and played with it I can\'t remember but this just sounds like a vacume leak, I would check the blanking plate
As for pre-mix if you feel you want to do this just remove the oil metering pump assembly and fit a blanking plate, however I don\'t feel personaly there\'s an advantage to this.
Hope this helps
+1 on what clive said - most idle issues are vacuum related, even with poor timing it should still idle roughly
The air pump is not used for idle at all - although it does provide an air supply to operate the 5/6 th ports on the EGI\'s at higher revs, there is apparently another way to operate these - but don\'t know the details.
thanks for that, my egi doesn\'t have a 5/6th port actuator so i am assuming its a 4 port?
That\'s sounds like the aux ports will be open all the time which will reduce low down torque. As for the premix, there may be. Problem with some buzzer if you just remove the pump. Don\'t take that as gospel though
Quote from: dthebuk;731645That\'s sounds like the aux ports will be open all the time which will reduce low down torque. As for the premix, there may be. Problem with some buzzer if you just remove the pump. Don\'t take that as gospel though
their doesn\'t seem to be a hole for it or a blanking plate :S.... i\'ll get pics at the weekend.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/IMG00020.jpg)
this shows the mk1 blanking plate and you can kind of see their isnt a actuator,
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/IMG00026.jpg)
this is the check valve i have lost, is it needed?
Quote from: Ste00;731649their doesn\'t seem to be a hole for it or a blanking plate :S.... i\'ll get pics at the weekend.
for the aux ports?
Maybe everything has been binned?
not sure it looks like it was never their, i\'ll get better pics at the weekend, engine was re-built just before i got it so might have been part of that...
Right finally got a pic of that side of the engine:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/Ste00/RX7/Photo0411.jpg)
every pic i have seen has had 2 actuators near their, mine doesnt and it doesnt look like they have been removed or blanked off.
got a better blanking plate on the way (3mm steel) so hopefully that will sort the issue.
Anyone got a guide as to what hoses can be blocked off ect? (would accept pages out of the service manual with ms paint blobs on them?)
Right.. finally got a blanking plate that\'s sealed and she still wont run properly :(
here\'s a vid
http://vimeo.com/19605120
does anyone have any ideas how to re-set the idle? i have been fiddling today but made it worse (if i take the small screw out that has a nut round it, (holds one of the butterflys open i think) it will idle at 2k but that\'s just down to the throttle being open)...
was hoping to have it back on the road for my birthday on the 16th but its not looking likely now...
This is tough to diagnose like this but did you let the engine warm up or was it already warm in the vid as it did not sound like the cold start had operated,
If it was warm then the only thing to do is to start working back wards and see what you you may have done wrong
Around 12 /13 ago I made a manifold, removed the air pump etc on my EGI and it never made any difference to the running of the car other that it made lots of flame on overrun :chat
Quote from: clive;740848This is tough to diagnose like this but did you let the engine warm up or was it already warm in the vid as it did not sound like the cold start had operated,
If it was warm then the only thing to do is to start working back wards and see what you you may have done wrong
Around 12 /13 ago I made a manifold, removed the air pump etc on my EGI and it never made any difference to the running of the car other that it made lots of flame on overrun :chat
It was cold, but i had my foot resting slightly on the throttle as it started so it didn\'t kick in (might have had the clutch down as well I cant rember)
Wish the weather would cheer up so i could spend a full weekend on it without ending up in a iron lung...
Weather was OK today so had a good play and diagnosed it...
The new blanking plate is leaking air :(
Good news is i have cut some 5mm ali to make a new one next weekend and the ali has already been machined flat so should have no issues this time... assuming it doesn\'t melt...