Okay, in Norway the test is every other year. The results are shown like this:
1 - minor fault
2 - major fault, must be fixed for the car to be declared roadworthy
3 - extreme fault, car can not be driven, and must be repaired
4 - force majeure makes the test "Not doable".
Okay, I got 6 no. 2:
Brake discs and pads, rear (<- this is two no. 2 faults)
Speedometer, maybe faulty wire, but I think it still spins, so might need new cluster. Anyone got this? For N/A. All my gauges are off anyway, so an S4 or S5 cluster will do.
Dampers, front. Anyone got these used? I think new ones costs a mountain of money. Also, how easy are these to fix myself?
Some bushings, got something to do with some rods holding the rear axle, I am not sure where this is, but there are one or two on each side. Makes a loud noise when releasing the gas pedal. I need someone to confirm where these are, and what they are called, and if they are found on other (Mazda) cars, so I can get hold of them from Norway.
CO, I know wankels are supposed to be tested differently than normal engines, so I have to find the papers on this, and I\'ll be okay.
My front suspension was given an advisory so I\'m replacing with coilovers, I wouldn\'t bother trying to find used dampers as most are going to be 20 years old now. I don\'t think stock replacement dampers will cost a fortune.
As for your rear bush issue, not sure but mine failed on camber control links, one on each side connected to the trailing arm. They look like small dog bone shaped things with a bush on each end. Mazda charge £120 each for these.
For the speedo problem, check the spot where it goes into the gearbox under the car. Think I have a spare if you need a new cable.
I got some new info for ya here :)
My speedowire is okay. So I need a cluster instead (look for sale thread for more).
Dampers, Clive is checking up on that.
The bushings, it is 28-210 on a diagram I got from Clive, that might be the partnumber from Mazda. Looks kinda like a dog bone yeah.
The CO, in Norway post 1986 pre 1989, it is 3.5% Co max, I had 4.05. Do I need the air pump pipe in there, or might there be that the testing for wankel is so different that it might make that last 0.55%? I know there is issued some papres from Mazda saying that the normal piston-way of testing CO is wrong for the wankel, but I have to find it to be sure that the numbers are off so I can get this done right.
did you check the speedo cable where it goes into the clocks? Additionally it could just be broken. I wouldn\'t go for new clocks untill you are sure the speedo cable is fine.
For dampers i\'d sugest the koni uprated shocks which are around £75 a corner i believe, and they\'re uprated.
rotary\'s should be tested in the same way i think? At the end of the day you\'re measuring the amount of CO coming out of your exhuast no?.0.55% may be do able There are a couple of screws around the engine bay to sort this but i wouldn\'t do it yourself unless you know what you\'re doing. I played with mine and the car ran like crap and had to go to a specialist. Also you should give it a decent blast on the way to the mot centre and get them to do the emissions first
If it is said links i found them cheapest from rhdjapan although i didnt look too hard to be honest, im going for the supernow camber control links as im getting coilovers and want the car a bit lower without camber problems. Also very nice looking!
Supernow- http://www.rhdjapan.com/super-now-camber-control-main-link-fc3s-rx-7-50168
Stock- http://www.rhdjapan.com/catalog/product/view/id/20796/s/mazda-oem-lower-arm-link-control-link-fc3s-59006/
:Thumbs-up
I only get PHP syntax errors on the websites you linked, 1990 :S
Just checked and it didnt work for me either, must be the site maybe just try it later. :xconfused
Well, I think I got everything covered:
Dampers, bushings, brake discs and pads from Clive
Instrument cluster from Trondheim (random dude), if it is from an S4.
And we are covered (I think)
But still, the CO.. Does the airpump help that much you think?
Here you go: http://www.mazdatrix.com/pictures/mvc263.jpg
yes the airpump will alter those figures quite significantly if you have no other means of playing with the fuel/air mixture. A lot of us run without the pump but then have after market ECU\'s in which to play with the maps. There are various ways though to get it through without and especially when its only 4.05, its 3.5 in UK as well. need to have a read as i am sure you can add stuff to the fuel and do all the other stuff like air filter and tweaking the AFM screw to bring it down a bit.
I will first try with the paper from Mazda saying you have to rev the engine @ 3000rpm in 1 min, then test it within 30 seconds. If that doesn\'t work, I must be given a 4, which is enviromental causes makes the test not useable.
make sure you give it a good blast before you get to the test station!!
Oh I did last night :D Damn that sound is so awesome, got a friend to film it.
Its like.. (Turbo) sssssssssssssssssss (then exhaust when I pass the cam)ss-wrooooooooom :D Can\'t stop loving not hearing the engine :D
Anyway, my speed works awesomely.
But still, if anyone got a speedometer, or atleast only the speedometer plate thing (with KM/H ONLY!!), I would love that in a small letter home to me :) I am tired of seeing that darn mp/h.