Hi guys
As you know, fuel pump fixed my car. (UK 1991 FC3S TII) I then cleaned the engine bay, it still ran fine. I then:
Removed ACV and EGR, fitted an induction kit, removed viscous fan, fitted electric fan, pulled cat off, had intercooler off to clean up manifold.
And now, she wont bloody start, i suck b4lls.
But also, can anyone give me any ideas ?
Mark
Some pictures that may give anyone a hint as to what ive done wrong. It doesnt have the PAS belt on, but that cant be why right ? And the vac lines that have tape on in the pics were properly sealed when trying to start her.
Also, there is a female single wire plug thats unplugged as you can see highlighted in a red circle, anyone know what it is ?
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1508.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1509.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1510.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1511.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1512.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1513.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1514.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1515.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1517.jpg)
(http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/DSCF1516.jpg)
Heeeelllp
Hmm, pics have come out very small, for more detail in a bigger size see here:
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y70/Cooptub/RX7%20Turbo%20II/
Don\'t worry about the circular connector, man. I\'ve got the same one disconnected on mine. When you say it won\'t start, will the engine turn at all or are you getting nothing out of it? Does it sound like it wants to fire?
OK sweet, it turns over fine, and i can smell fuel, quite alot of it. It initially felt like it wanted to try and fire and cough, but then nothing.
Have you checked to see if its flooded?
Would it have flooded straight away though ?
Agghhh, getting disheartened, would the ecu be copping a strop due removing the acv and egr ? Also i havent got the new downpipe yet, but id hooked up the rest of the exhaust, so only has the original downpipe, then to atmosphere. Clutching at straws here.
sorry cant help with your non start problem but i noticed your omp lines have no oil in them? :2eek maybe just the angle im seeing it at or maybe youve got clean oil :Giggle
Perhaps try unplugging and then re-plugging in the air flow meter as maybe the connector is loose when you changed the air filter?
I would suggest trying a de-flood procedue anyway, what sort of gasket/sealent did you use to block off the air pump? Has the ECU thrown any error codes?
they can flood pretty quick to be honest
if you can smell fuel then its not a good sign
whip out the plugs and check
on the TII - you can floor the loud pedal and it should cut the fuel off when you start the car ( helps if its flooded - but if its really bad - then it wont at all )
or you can pull the EGI fuse and crank and see if that will dump some of the excess fuel aswell
They can flood pretty easily; as grinder said, whenever I\'ve needed to, I just pull out the EGI fuse and turn it over a few times. Once I put it back in it fires up straight away no problem. Maybe check the plugs too, as if they\'ve got some build up on them that doesn\'t help!
I would start with the easy (ish) stuff first mate-pull the plugs and have a looksy.
OK, put my new plugs in and it runs like a dream. Dont you just love cars...
SWEET!!!! i was starting to feel bad cause i havent been able to get over there. sorry about that.
woop woop!
Glad you got it sorted :wave
The plug one catches us all out ;)
You\'ll start carrying around a set of spares in the long run ;)
The deflood procedure - you can do the easy one, and if that doesn\'t work then try the hard one.
Easy Deflood:
Floor the accelerator when cranking - the ECU will detect the WOT condition and cut fuel - give it maybe 20-30 seconds of cranking - wait 1 minute then try again (provided battery is good ;)
Harder Deflood (but usually always works ;) ):
Remove the EGI fuse from the large fuse block in the engine bay - this cuts spark and fuel injectors.
Remove the bottom 2 plugs (one from each rotor).
Whilst holding down the accelerator to let plenty of air in, crank the engine - if it\'s badly flooded you\'ll see clouds of vapour/mist - do this for about 20-30 seconds, wait a minute and repeat. Then remove the upper 2 plugs as well, and clean and dry all 4 plugs, replacing them. If you\'re engine has different leading / trailing plugs, they are marked with a T for trailing - these are the upper 2 plugs, bottom plugs are leading plugs. A lot of these cars use 9 T\'s all round.
Refit the plug leads, refit EGI fuse and try and start the car normally.
In severe cases, you may need to tow start it. The problem is that the fuel disolves all the oil lubricating the rotors and wrecks the compression which you need to start it.
A common cause of flooding is to start the car and almost immediately shut it off - rotaries seem to hate this ;)
glad its all working now :D :D
You might still want to look at those OMP lines. That reminds me I\'ve got to either buy new or rebuild mine at some point.
OMP ? The 4 plastic oil lines ? Nothing seems to go on in them, should they flow all the time ?
OMP - the oil metering pump lines (yup, those 4 plastic ones). Some parts of these cars are still a bit of a mystery to me, and this one I don\'t fully understand yet. But it injects oil into the engine under certain conditions which then burns. The alternative to this is by using premix, which some people do and remove the OMP setup, but with the S5 engines that requires modification to the ECU as the OMP system is electrically controlled and just removing it will throw the computer into limp home mode.
Glad you got it sorted .... had the same flooding problem myself over the last few days! Pain in the ass :Grrr
The OMP lines will over time become brittle and go a dark yellow colour due to age. With new oil its a lot harder to see but with darker older oil you should see them filled with oil.You can check its getting oil by disconnecting them at the OMP itself one by one and see if oil flows out.....but it will not be much. If the OMP had failed you would get a check light and failure to start/limp mode. if you are unsure then pre-mix now until you are 100% sure its pumping correctly, it will not hurt even if it is working. It regulates the amount of oil dependant upon throttle and will pump more under WOT and very little when cruising etc.