Hi Guys - I\'m due to start changing the dash board for a replacement colour.
Any hints for the easiest way to do this?
I have already taken the front seats out, would it be easier with the steering wheel to be off too?
Thanks - Cliff
:Thumbs-up
yep think it needs too, glove box out first and all the lower panels, then the centre surround, 2 bolts either side of the dash open doors for access them the windscreen vent out with another 3 bolts hiding under there that should get you started, give us a yelp if you get stuck
That\'s a good starter but probably wont begin until this or next weekend.
Thinking ahead, will the clocks come out or does the surround lift off without extracting the clocks?
Thanks. Cliff
:Thumbs-up
When I\'ve broken \'em I\'ve been left with a big metal braced frame that comes out with all the display still in place (still attached to the removed dash). Whether you can cut down the process and just get the front off I\'m not sure, but I think No.
have always taken my clocks out before so not sure if they will come out together you will certainly need to disconnect the speedo cable from one end or the other ;)
I\'ll stick with a brown dashboard I think, that sounds like a nightmare!
You said it first Tim.
I\'m just a wimp so I\'d wait for the old dash to explode first before I pulled it.
(Electrical Engineer - wires! connectors! OMG - look at that stuff undeneath!).
We used to do our kitchen table with Fablon.....that was in a pit house in Yorkshire in the 1950\'s.
dash isn\'t too bad honest, ok the first one i did took a while it just sounds harder than it is ;)
cheers-
try this Thread from the RX7club Forum:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747161
need to scroll down a bit.
This is for the Mk1 (?) 79-80 SA, but technique is virtually the same for later RXs since most share same dash pad.
Also recommend access to a Mazda parts book (or on-line PDF) as these exploded diagrams REALLY help you visualize how it all comes apart. Not that difficult if you are organized...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Stu - what a man, the club forum triumphs again.
Excellent set of instructions and shall try to access on line pdf for exploded diagrams.
Must admit I don\'t think it looks too difficult even without the instructions. Think the best tip here is to take digital photos as going along, that way remember what goes where when it comes down to re-build.
Ta.
Cliff
:cheers
Cliff - no worries - what usually does me "in" on any project is the time-lag btw disassembly and RE-assembly!!!! All the "obvious" stuff one forgets. So yeah, digi-cam, zip-lock bags and labels are your Best Friends.
\'Luck
Stu Aull
80GS/Mk1
Alaska
I agree Stu - strange how we tend to forget what went whered - must be an age thing but can\'t understand why \'cause I\'m only 23 (with 32 years experiece), hmmmmm all part of growing up me thinks.
Will let you know how I get on.
Cliff
:mmmm
:D
Try yer wee brain again when you get over 50, then we\'ll talk!
\'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
there is some pics in my thread of the dash out but cant remember how i did it there is a lot of bolts under neath and i left the clocks in if i remember rightly
in hindsight should have just painted it in the car would have been easier:Giggle
1st of all I\'mm already over 50 so there\'s nothing down for me - apparently when you reach the age of 40 you start to loose 10,000 brain cells a day, ***t didnt think I had 100 to begin with.
Anyhow, have taken the dash and supporting frame out this weekend (some photos to follow), in all took about 4 hrs, sequence as follows:
Took out side panels at door closures
Took out vanity box - quiter fiddly at rear in particular
Remove steering wheel and shroud
Then instrument panel to r/h of steering wheel - disconnect cable blocks to fully remove
Then radio, ashtray, compaertment for nick-nacks, gear knob, gear lever gaitor etc (lifts from rear with 2 spring clips), heater control knobs
Take off instrument dimming light knob, remove screw retaining choke handle and unscrew both locking plates. Push both through and remove this panel (note difficult to screw from back of cables on steering column
remove centre console
Remove surround infront of clocks - possibly 2 screws in the upper section (not in my case) and 2 spring clips at bottom (make take a little force)
With me so far - thw above is the easy part.
Remove both seats - this makes it easy to lie on you back to see under the dash
Lying in the drivers foot well (with legs and feet dangling over the rear seats - by the way if you are quite tall suggest folding rear squab down) you look up and somehow have to work a size 14 fist into a gap suitable for a size 4 in order to release the tab retaining the speedo cable in place. What I did was release the the clocks (remove 2 screws) and push the clock rearward thus making the gap larger - well it worked for me - and hey presto access is there and speedo released. Take out clock - remembering that it is still tehered by the 2 circular cable blocks (push tab in to release)
Remove 5 no. 8mm nuts (3 on n/s and 2 with access via space from clocks) on underside of top of dash - must also remove retaining screw for cables inside space for clocks
Remove 7 bolts retaining dash to frame
Remove 3 screws from valance on top of dash at windscreen
Take ot 3 bolts fixing front of dash to frame (on top by windscreen)
Now you are ready to remove dash - yippee!
Oops when you try to remove it you\'ll have to move air ducting slightly (jiggle it about) and finally where the air ducting joins the central vents BEWARE, there are 2 cross head screws only accessible from the front inside the moulding holding this to the underside of the dash and once removed also allows erelease of the wiring loom across the top of the dash
Now wasn\'t that simple - I don\'t think. No honestly guys it\'s not as bad as it sounds, just need small hands, powerful torch/light and patience
If you want to remove the frame as I have there isn\'t much more to be done but I\'ll leave that for another time - gees I\'m worn out just thinking about it.
Hope the above is clear for anybody foolish enough to try it. Cliff
:Thumbs-up
Just adding a few more photos.
Cliff
I think I would have had to get the paint out .............. good luck
To be honest it wasn\'t that difficult and I thinks it will be fairly simple for the reverse process but we\'ll have to wait and see.
Just waiting for the front carpet so that I can commence re-build - oh what joy and fun that shall be!
Let you know if I am right, if not it calls for one thing........:guinness(and plenty of them) then back to work!
Cliff
:cheers
AAAGGGGHHHH......I remember now, what a chuffing nightmare it was just dismantling one......Fablon might still have done a nice white flower pattern with red flowers on?
Quote from: A7RXY;714081I think I would have had to get the paint out .............. good luck
I second that!
Quote from: captainbizzaro;714136I second that!
Nah,put a dash cover on, they use in oz,much lazier:rolleyes:
Very effiecient too \'cause they stop them from cracking, distorting and most importantly keep them cool - been there, done that.
Well after a small delay in the preceedings I have installed replacement front carpet and am ready to commence reverse procedure to install replacement dash and all its\' associated bits.
Once finished I\'ll have to think about what to do with the interior that I\'ve just taken out - a complete and full set.
Cliff
:wiggle
Here we go - job done.
Well was it as simple as follow instructions in reverse - basically yes.
If anyone does this like myself and takes the supporting frame out too:-
1) make sure you put the wiring loom on top of the supporting brackets (4 number) before re-connecting the air ducting middle section to the dash. Re-connecting the air duct is a bit difficult as this has to be done blind - 2 screws inside the air duct to the underside of the dash and remember to put the wiring loom between the dash and duct before you secure with the screws otherwise the wiring loom will not fit correctly.
2) also remember the routing of the wiring loom at the centre console to the bottom switches and clock - very important as not much slack in the loom and tight position means the loom connectors will not sit correctly so you would not be able to screw the centre panel to the console.
It is awkward to re-fit the dash as you have to keep moving the air duct(s) and ease the wiring loom so that it locates onto the 4 supporting brackets - make sure the 5 bolts locate in their respective clearance hole and then secure the 3 no. fixing bolts on top to the front bulkhead.
Fit and secure the 5 nuts on the underside of the dash - it is easier to fit the nearside nuts if you bend the plastic ducting away from the middle section. Once secure re-fir the air duct to the middle section.
Re-fit bolts for steering column to the frame.
Re-fit the 7 bolts at bottom of dash to the frame - 1 each end and 5 along the front.
Secure the wiring loom inside the \'clock\' area to the underside of the dash.
Re-fit facia above dash infront of the windscreen - 3 screws required - this is tedious but stick with it
Re-fit \'clock\' panel and secure by 2 screws (access via drivers footwell).
Re-connect speedo cable - note access difficult. I found it easier to control the direction and locating byguiding from above the foot pedals and push the speedo cable into place. With a long flat screw driver (12" minimum) place the flat blade to the rear of the white plastic shroud and force firmly towards the \'clock\' panel, the speedo cable should click into place.
Fit centre console and secure with screws.
Connect dash board dimmer switch and choke mechanism into place.
Re-fit drivers side outer panel into place - make electrical connections and secure panel into place.
Re-position and secure fuse box into place - in front of bonnet release handle.
Re-fit final air duct under steering column.
Re-fit centre panel into console and make good all connections.
Re-fit glove box - remember to secure outer dash cover first then vanity light/door keep prior to securing door into place.
Re-fit gear lever gaitor and secure into place in the centre console.
Re-fit rear console panel with switch connections.
Re-install seats.
Re-fit shroud around steering column.
Finally re-fit steering wheel and horn centre panel.
Re-connect battery and away you go.
There wasn\'t that easy! - phew.
Some photos
Cliff
:WaveBye
:3gears-rh
looks good mate carpets came up good
:yes - really pleased with the carpet, amazing what warm water, Stardrops can do with a scrubbing brush and elbow grease.
Thanks again Michael.
Hows your project coming along?
Cliff
its not at the moment hopfully will have a bit of time to work on it at the weekend
Cliff - you have great currage. Great color - in the white car I presume - stunning!!
Yes, originally had a darkish brown interior with red stripe through middle of seats. There was minor damage to the upper section of the door cards and had trouble finding replacements but in doing so this full interior surfaced - and I just louv bargains - so picked it up. It really does look good with the white exterior and am extremely pleased with it - cetainly beats being painted.
Another 4 wks or so and hopefully should be offered for MOT :eek: and then followed by :3gears-rh all being well.
Cliff
I think just to close out this thread I would add that I re-connected battery tonight (having had most of the electrics disconnected and the petrol tank out for refurb and cleaning) and after allowing for fuel to flow through and prime carb, she fired up and all electrics are working - so quite pleased with myself.
:wiggle
Quote from: CHC;716379I think just to close out this thread I would add that I re-connected battery tonight (having had most of the electrics disconnected and the petrol tank out for refurb and cleaning) and after allowing for fuel to flow through and prime carb, she fired up and all electrics are working - so quite pleased with myself.
:wiggle
so you should be Cliff, that\'s a big fiddly job to undertake. Gotta say, it does look great, I think that colour interior looks lovely and luxurious on white cars.
Fair play to you for taking it on.
Hi Cliff, Ian is right it looks great, I don\'t usually like the wine interior but this is the exception to the case........... congrats.
Dibs
Cheers guys - it\'s good to get appreciation from fellow enthusiasts. Must say the exchange was made a lot easier with the assistance of mooragerx7.....without his carpet it would look totaly different.
:Thumbs-up:cheers
Hey Spoddy - this one is for you! Happy reading/viewing. :Thumbs-up
Ta
Cliff
wow, all those wires lol. you have put in the same colour as the white fb i went to look at had. i loved it too, and it really suited the white of the exterior. it was in good condition except for the carpet in the passenger rear floor. it had started to go bald in a big clump, but looking at the pics it looks like the carpet is in sections on these cars.
they really don\'t make carpet and plastics like that any more. i couldn\'t get over how well the interior was on the fb i went to see and how new the light stalk switch was, the clicks felt solid as did the buttons. pity about the chassis dent but i didn\'t wanna take the chance. it would have been a twin to your white fb cliff lol.
i have seen dash spray paint in halfords, but it would require you to mask everything off, windscreen, doors, seats and carpet and parts of the dash so you could spray over the parts you want to paint. its a lot of work too and then you need to get an even spray. unless there are vinyl kits you can stick over the existing dash?
Quote from: spoddy;779079wow, all those wires lol. you have put in the same colour as the white fb i went to look at had. i loved it too, and it really suited the white of the exterior. it was in good condition except for the carpet in the passenger rear floor. it had started to go bald in a big clump, but looking at the pics it looks like the carpet is in sections on these cars.
they really don\'t make carpet and plastics like that any more. i couldn\'t get over how well the interior was on the fb i went to see and how new the light stalk switch was, the clicks felt solid as did the buttons. pity about the chassis dent but i didn\'t wanna take the chance. it would have been a twin to your white fb cliff lol.
i have seen dash spray paint in halfords, but it would require you to mask everything off, windscreen, doors, seats and carpet and parts of the dash so you could spray over the parts you want to paint. its a lot of work too and then you need to get an even spray. unless there are vinyl kits you can stick over the existing dash?
The carpets for the fb are in two halves - front & rear. When I bought the replacement wine interior from Stu in Tamworth (he has since sold his Ferrari by the way) he didn\'t have the carpets other than a few pieces. So I bought the front from Mooragerx7 and the rear from the Rossendale fb (B33 TEC) to make up the set - interesting hunting and tracking them down I can tell you.For me replacement dashboard is the way to go rather than spray paints and no Spoddy, to my knowledge there are no vinyl kits available (horrible).
yeah, i\'ll try and just get an fb with a decent colour interior.
the white one would have really suited me, but it wasn\'t to be.
hopefully something will turn up for me, i don\'t mind the brown interior,
i do like the red wine colour, just not grey.
Great work Cliff. I\'m looking into putting the Black interior I have into my FB. The current interior is in better nick, so I think i\'ll paint the black one really well and clean the carpets etc and put in. Does anyone recommend an interior paint? Is the Halfords one ok? I\'ve found one online in USA, but would prefer to buy local - or does good ol semi-gloss black do the trick?
My seats are black with a grey cloth front. I think i\'m going to get some clothes dye and give that a go on them.
be carefull with the vinyl paint.... I did the inside of a van with it once and everytime the sun came out and it got hot, it went wet again..... I got covered in the stuff!
Might be worth doing a test piece first.... having said that, I did some headrests on a Triumph Spitfire using Halfords vinyl paint in a rattle can and the results were excellent.
I used halfords vinyl paint on my dash and had no trouble with it and the car did live outside in the sun (well daylight it is England after all :evillaugh) for a while after it was done
think there is some pics in the thread of the painting part somewhere
Quote from: Rotaryguru;779402Great work Cliff. I\'m looking into putting the Black interior I have into my FB. The current interior is in better nick, so I think i\'ll paint the black one really well and clean the carpets etc and put in. Does anyone recommend an interior paint? Is the Halfords one ok? I\'ve found one online in USA, but would prefer to buy local - or does good ol semi-gloss black do the trick?
My seats are black with a grey cloth front. I think i\'m going to get some clothes dye and give that a go on them.
What\'s the latest Guru?
I know you had the \'B\' Reg race car but then you\'ve bought an \'83 FB as well? Any chance of an update - colour and Reg? Well the colour\'s not silver or white? - \'cos you\'ve a black interior and I think the Silvers/Whites were normally Winey Red or Brown.
email me if you like dgnock at btopenworld dot com.